Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit

jscherb

Expedition Leader
To protect the rear corners of the tub, I whipped up some prototype nerf bars. They're made from 1" tubing, and bolt to the frame. These are sized specifically for the frame I'm using, although a change to the mounting brackets could make it fit a range of frames.

NerfBars2.jpg


Here they are installed:

NerfBar5.jpg


NerfBar6.jpg


And here's how they mount. I haven't put all the bolts in yet:

NerfBar2.jpg


Both sides are identical, and these could also be used on the front of the frame as well - this same part can be used on all 4 corners.

I've only got a few small tasks left to finish up before I call the construction phase of the basic trailer complete, then I'll be disassembling it completely for final finishing, paint, etc.
 
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Maddmatt

Explorer
Just checked in again - wanted to add my voice to the loud chorus of approvals for your work. You've seriously got me thinking about A) jumping on the initial buy for one of the trailer kits if/when they become commercialized and/or B) trying to figure out how to justify a Jeep to convert it to your budget Brute concept (no disrespect to AEV intended, love their work but don't have that kind of pocket book)

But in the meantime, I give you as much props for staying the course and not straying down one path or another as I do for the obvious quality of your work - the identical, symmetrical, 'use on the front or rear' nerf bars are a great example. You see so many great projects get side tracked, it's great to see a craftsman stick to his vision.

Keep up the good work!
-Matt
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Sooo When would this Kit be available? It looks like it would fit my needs vary well!!! :) Great Project!!!
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Sooo When would this Kit be available? It looks like it would fit my needs vary well!!! :) Great Project!!!
I don't really know. I'm in conversations with several companies that have expressed interest in the kit, but none of those conversations have reached a conclusion yet. I'm following two paths on this one - one path is talking to companies that are interested in taking the kit and handling everything - manufacturing, marketing, sales, etc. The other path is talking to fiberglass manufacturing companies to get the kit parts manufactured so a company without manufacturing capabilities could market the kits - I'm expecting a price quote from one of those companies within a few days. Things are moving along, but it's too early to say if the kits will actually come to market or not.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Just checked in again - wanted to add my voice to the loud chorus of approvals for your work. You've seriously got me thinking about A) jumping on the initial buy for one of the trailer kits if/when they become commercialized and/or B) trying to figure out how to justify a Jeep to convert it to your budget Brute concept (no disrespect to AEV intended, love their work but don't have that kind of pocket book)
Thanks! The Budget Brute concept was one of the reasons I built this project - I wanted to build the trailer tub anyway, but I figured I could use it as a test to see if the design was up to the task of serving as a pickup truck bed (better than cutting a Wrangler in half and then finding out the fiberglass bed wasn't adequate!). Anyway, I'm very pleased with how strong the tub has turned out, and I wouldn't hesitate to build a Jeep pickup using it. I also wouldn't hesitate to use the fiberglass parts to close off the back of the cut-in-half Wrangler tub to turn it into a pickup tub. So some day you may see me building a pickup with these parts...

But in the meantime, I give you as much props for staying the course and not straying down one path or another as I do for the obvious quality of your work - the identical, symmetrical, 'use on the front or rear' nerf bars are a great example. You see so many great projects get side tracked, it's great to see a craftsman stick to his vision.

Keep up the good work!
-Matt
Thanks!
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
I finished up the tailgate hardware, so it's time for another 225-pound gorilla test:

TailgateTest2.jpg


Seems plenty strong enough. And strong enough to work fine if the tub is used as a pickup tub for a "Budget Brute" build too.

TailgateHardware1.jpg


I made a brace for each side of the tailgate opening that ties the end panel to the floor. The tailgate cables also attach to these braces. The foot of the brace is located so that the bolt securing it also goes through the wooden stringer below the plywood in addition to the plywood, for extra strength.

TailgateHardware4.jpg


My fiberglass tailgate is dimensionally identical to the factory CJ-7/CJ-8 tailgates, so a factory tailgate is a direct bolt-in swap for my fiberglass one and would use all this same hardware.

I've designed these braces to work with Wrangler tailgates as well, so if you wanted to put a factory Wrangler tailgate on instead, no problem. The braces bolt to the rear panel at the same location as the inner bolt of the upper hinge of a Wrangler tailgate, so the upper hinge of the Wrangler tailgate would be tied to the brace. The striker pin for the Wrangler tailgate would mount on the brace on the driver's side; a simple bracket would bolt to the brace and the striker pin would bolt to the bracket.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Before blowing everything apart for finishing, paint and bedliner I wanted to make sure the tonneau cover clamps work well on the fiberglass tub. They're fine, and they're out of the way in the corners. Here are a few photos of the frame clamped in place.

Tonneau1-1.jpg


Tonneau2.jpg


Tonneau3.jpg


And I put pop-up tie-down points in the floor. Since it's a small trailer, I put four in, one at each corner (the front two aren't visible in this photo):

TieDowns1.jpg


Here's a closer view showing one retracted and one popped up:

TieDowns2.jpg



Now I've got to take everything apart again so I can do the finishing/painting/bedliner, that's all that's left do to.
 

jeffjeeptj

Adventurer
Excellent looking work quality and photo documentation. I recognize the deliberate calculations and process you follow in your work. I always look past the object in the photo and see the clean and well organized shop equipment. You are obviously a man with high level skills and thought processes.
I look forward to following this and any other projects you create.
 

zuren

Adventurer
I'm interested in your idea moreso for utilizing the kit trailers. Has your experience been positive using what most people consider to be "flimsy", lightweight trailers? Northern Tool has a 5'x8' platform that I'm eyeing.

I don't have a welder yet (took a class) but even if I did, I'm not sure that I would be confident in my welds at this point to build something from scratch and use it on public roadways. Bracing and enhancing something that is already functional would probably be my preferred route (also helps me navigate registration hassles in MA). I'm looking to move bulky gear, canoes/kayaks and maybe a ATV someday on 90% pavement, 10% gravel roads/2-track........no rock crawling or extreme articulation.

Thanks!
 

gorogergo

New member
Bracing and enhancing something that is already functional would probably be my preferred route (also helps me navigate registration hassles in MA)...
That's a huge plus. I'm looking at various trailers, and while I will probably 90% scratch build, it will start out as a purchased trailer with a Manufacturer's Statement of Origin purely for that reason.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
I'm interested in your idea moreso for utilizing the kit trailers. Has your experience been positive using what most people consider to be "flimsy", lightweight trailers? Northern Tool has a 5'x8' platform that I'm eyeing.

I don't have a welder yet (took a class) but even if I did, I'm not sure that I would be confident in my welds at this point to build something from scratch and use it on public roadways. Bracing and enhancing something that is already functional would probably be my preferred route (also helps me navigate registration hassles in MA). I'm looking to move bulky gear, canoes/kayaks and maybe a ATV someday on 90% pavement, 10% gravel roads/2-track........no rock crawling or extreme articulation.

Thanks!

I'm very pleased with how sturdy my assembled frame turned out to be. I did use the HF "Heavy Duty" trailer, and I shortened it from 4x8 to 4x4 and in the process used the extra parts to build a full-length backbone, so my comments don't necessarily apply to the "stock" HF trailers or to the non-Heavy-Duty trailers. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend following the same path I did, and I'd add that the trailer could be even stronger if you welded the joints, so you could buy now, assemble it with bolts, and as you gain confidence in your welding skills, you can go back and weld it to improve its strength later.

Tongue1.jpg
 

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