jscherb
Expedition Leader
Jim,
About 10 days ago the folks at the company told me they were planning to make an announcement the week of January 12. I haven't heard anything to the contrary, so I assume that's when this will go public.
Jeff
Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
About 10 days ago the folks at the company told me they were planning to make an announcement the week of January 12. I haven't heard anything to the contrary, so I assume that's when this will go public.
Jeff
The Swiss
Expedition Leader
I vote #3 for sure, especially if the fold down doors can double as tables to put the stove and prepare meals.What do you guys think is the best way to mount a tent on top of a trailer?
Or some other way?
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I'm thinking maybe the doors would be RV hatches like these:
They would be fairly narrow, maybe 13", so large enough to serve as small tables but maybe a bit small to put the stove on? Maybe the stove would be better on the tailgate, or on a slide-out that comes out of the tailgate?
I'm thinking there would be three 36" wide rough opening hatches - one on each side and one in the back, none in the front. I'm trying to decide how large the hatches should be, which translates to how high the storage module would be. I've found some hatches that are 14" high rough opening, and also some that are 10" high rough opening. For the first ones, the module tub height would be about 18", so almost as tall as the main tub. For the smaller ones, the module tub height would be about 14".
Thoughts?
The Swiss
Expedition Leader
I'd definitely go with the 14" doors. The side doors I have on my trailer are about 10" tall and often too narrow to get gear in and out or to reach through to dig for stuff. Luckily I have the big gate in the rear. Despite being narrow, the side tables do work great as vantage point for my little Yorkiepoo (my trailer is running tripple-duty as camping trailer, utility trailer and dog kennel) :elkgrin:
Maddmatt
Explorer
Since you seem to be able to do anything, I'd vote for #1 with the #3 module available as a 'down the road' bolt on module. That way the budget conscious among us can start slowly:
"It's a utility trailer, we'll use for going to Home Depot and Lowes"
...
"Oh look, we can buy a foldable top that will let us mount a tent sometime"
...
"We do need more space for stuff, let's get that bigger storage module"
...
That's how I see it, anyway
"It's a utility trailer, we'll use for going to Home Depot and Lowes"
...
"Oh look, we can buy a foldable top that will let us mount a tent sometime"
...
"We do need more space for stuff, let's get that bigger storage module"
...
That's how I see it, anyway
jscherb
Expedition Leader
BTW, that height (14" doors) is the easiest to make the storage module, because it uses the exact same parts that are used to make the main tub. There are only two differences:
1. Inner fenders are not necessary (obviously). All you'd need would be two solid end panels (no tailgate opening) and two side panels.
2. As assembled for the main tub, the side/end panel sides run 3 1/2" below the bottom of the floor flange. For assembly as a storage module, the sides would be trimmed at 1 1/4" below the flange. Once the panels were assembled on a 1/2" plywood floor panel, that would leave 3/4" to hang down over the angled top of the main tub. Weatherstrip would be placed on the bottom surface of the storage module where it would sit on/overlap the main tub. Mounting holes would be drilled through the floor of the storage module to match up with holes in the top edge of the main tub, and bolts would secure the two.
Door holes would be cut into the side panels; weatherproof marine/RV hatches with latches/locks are easily available in appropriate sizes to be mounted in the side panels. Done.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Today I did a quick test with the Hi-lift in the rear receiver to see how the side-to-side movement might be with a single rear stabilizer foot.
Conclusion: It's ok, but I think triangulation would provide for a more stable platform. I need to figure something for the rear with two feet.
Conclusion: It's ok, but I think triangulation would provide for a more stable platform. I need to figure something for the rear with two feet.
Make a short removable 'T-bar' that goes into the receiver and extends to the sides. On the ends have another piece of square tubing welded to the ends to stick the jack in. You will be able to lift one side, IF the load isn't to heavy for the 'T-bar'.
Another way would be to weld a short piece of square tubing the width of your frame rails and then carry a long enough piece to insert into the tubing that would extend it out far enough on the side to stick the jack into. You could lift each side that way.
Another way would be to weld a short piece of square tubing the width of your frame rails and then carry a long enough piece to insert into the tubing that would extend it out far enough on the side to stick the jack into. You could lift each side that way.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I think I'll add two receiver tubes to the side of the frame - I've drawn one in orange on the photo:
I've drawn it even with the back of the frame, ahead of the nerf bars, so they won't be very visible.
Then I can make up receiver mounts for stabilizer jacks like the ones below, and they'll be removable when not in use:
I've drawn it even with the back of the frame, ahead of the nerf bars, so they won't be very visible.
Then I can make up receiver mounts for stabilizer jacks like the ones below, and they'll be removable when not in use:
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I finished up the "smooth" tailgate and got it installed.
I like this smooth tailgate better than the "Jeep style" tailgates, I think it gives a sleek, modern look to a classic shape. And maybe people who would be towing the trailer behind, say, a Montero, would like the less-Jeeplike look of this tailgate.
And I probably shouldn't be finishing an offroad trailer this way, who's ever going to want to subject the finish to trail abuse?
I like this smooth tailgate better than the "Jeep style" tailgates, I think it gives a sleek, modern look to a classic shape. And maybe people who would be towing the trailer behind, say, a Montero, would like the less-Jeeplike look of this tailgate
.And I probably shouldn't be finishing an offroad trailer this way, who's ever going to want to subject the finish to trail abuse?
I like this smooth tailgate better than the "Jeep style" tailgates, I think it gives a sleek, modern look to a classic shape. And maybe people who would be towing the trailer behind, say, a Montero, would like the less-Jeeplike look of this tailgate
:victory:
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
who's ever going to want to subject the finish to trail abuse?
ME!?!
Looks great JS...Really does! So many ideas and options floating around my head...drool!