"Bruce" the 2014 Jeep JKUR Build Thread

[IndyRubicon]

I wouldn't bother with 33s. You're only gaining <0.5" of ground clearance.

35s look good, but they require a lift to ensure there's no rubbing, and I'm not keen on doing anything aside from a leveling kit at the moment. Things may change in the future, but it's unlikely. 33s will be fine for my needs once I've worn out the current shoes.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Got some much needed work done on the Jeep this weekend.

Removed the front brakeline brackets per AEV lift install instructions.

Changed the front diff oil (13,000 miles) and installed an ARB diff cover.

Installed a Rock Hard 4x4 winch plate (that I got new for $100 from someone locally).

Installed the Warn XD9000i winch I got locally. Haven't had a chance to refinish it yet. So it's a little ugly.

Installed an 80ft 3/8" Kevlar Fireline synthetic winch line with an extra rock guard to help with UV protection. I should have bought the one with a safety thimble. The SS thimble it came with is too thick for my Warn hook. So I had to jut stick a D-ring on the end for now.

I went with an 80ft to not have to unspool so much line. The stock steel like is 5/16". So I'm not sure 100ft would fit on the spool.

And I finished up the AEV lift with their geometry correction brackets. Hopefully, they work better now. They say to check the distance from the bottom of the spring perch to the frame rail. Last time it was a little shy of their minimum recommended distance. Now it's perfectly in the middle of the 2.5" hole setting. Time to get an alignment and see how it does.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Finally gave up on building my own tailgate table (anyone want some NSF Stainless Steel shelves?) and ordered an M-Pac table from Doc Frost (great name). Not exactly what I wanted but good quality and will get the job done for less than half the price of the Trailgater table. Geeze, my tailgate sheet metal has really taken a beating. Seems like a huge design flaw or the world's weakest metal.

I'm trying to figure out what to do with the small space between the two. Maybe a knife rack or cutting board or something.

 

[kojackJKU]

Nice table. I have used mine numerous times. Great addition to any jeep.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Looks good, and very functional.
I have the side racks, and they are good quality as well.

Will you cook off the table, or just use it for prep?

 

[RobFord]

Finally gave up on building my own tailgate table (anyone want some NSF Stainless Steel shelves?) and ordered an M-Pac table from Doc Frost (great name). Not exactly what I wanted but good quality and will get the job done for less than half the price of the Trailgater table. Geeze, my tailgate sheet metal has really taken a beating. Seems like a huge design flaw or the world's weakest metal.

I'm trying to figure out what to do with the small space between the two. Maybe a knife rack or cutting board or something.

Any sharp edges on the table? I sleep in the back when its just me and the dog and worry about ruining sleeping bags with snags.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Any sharp edges on the table? I sleep in the back when its just me and the dog and worry about ruining sleeping bags with snags.

I also sleep in mine. I'll double check but I didn't notice any sharp edges.

I plan to mostly use it for prep. I have some cheap aluminum Coleman legs I use as a stove stand and will probably continue to use that. Although I wonder if you could mount a partner steel stove to the bottom that slides out... It'd probably take up too much depth with the drawer.

I'll have to measure and see if I can realistically use any MOLLE attachments.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Alignment completed (steering wheel needs to be centered and it feels a bit twitchy now but I'll reserve judgment for a smoother highway).

Slid the drawer in. It works with the drawer much better than I expected. Should work well for food prep, giving me access to the cooking gear and food while being able to keep the table open. Tie down points are going to have to be rethought after this trip. Time to build a scrap wood sleeping platform. It's getting a little tight in there with the table eating up another 2 inches of depth.

It looks like I will probably not be using any MOLLE attachments on the table. Already a tight fit with the drawer. Also wish I hadn't drilled that hole in the top. I'm attaching an aluminum aircraft seat tie down rail along the front and back of the drawer. But there's a dust seal lip inside the drawer that I measured incorrectly. No room for a nut between the hole and the metal for the dust seal. I may have to slide the tiedown rail back or figure out some sort of spacer.

 

[Comanche Scott]

How about installing a rivet nut?
https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=thread+sert&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600191 Riveting 9and Self-Clinching Products"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602457 Rivet Nuts"|~ ~|sattr01:^Aluminum$|~

 

[MTSN]

I may have missed it, but what kind of drawer is that? Tuffy?

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

How about installing a rivet nut?
https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=thread+sert&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600191 Riveting 9and Self-Clinching Products"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602457 Rivet Nuts"|~ ~|sattr01:^Aluminum$|~

Good idea! I have about a million of those somewhere. Not sure about the clearance. Might have to still move the whole back some. But that might be a good solution for mounting the drawer itself to the tub.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I may have missed it, but what kind of drawer is that? Tuffy?

Yes, but now the one for the JK. This is their 058 drawer. It's for the TJ and a bunch of other trucks like old Broncos and Defenders. I wanted something only 8" high to leave enough room for action packer bins, and my feet, between the top of the drawer and the front runner shelf. It measures 35.5" x 30" x 8" which is the exact dimensions of the JK cargo space with the subwoofer in place. I have about 13-14" of vertical room between the drawer and shelf. And about 12" or so between the top of the shelf and hi-lift accessories.

Please excuse the stray papertowels and rubber mat. I got a 1/8" thick recycled rubber mat that I cut to fit the top of the tuffy drawer, the top of the frontrunner shelf and the inside of the drawer. The tie down rails will hold it down on top.

The drawer creates multiple levels of storage and is at about the same height as the angled, folded second row seat, making a sleeping platform pretty easy to construct.

So now I have the cubby below the drawer. Inside the drawer. On top of the drawer. On top of the shelf. Things mounted to the roll bar. And space for a soft stuff above the rollbar/hilift jack.

I plan to keep most of my camp kitchen and food storage inside the drawer. So I'll take it out between trips to save weight. It weighs about 85lbs.

 

[Comanche Scott]

That drawer was a stroke of genius for your build! It fits perfectly, and makes perfect sense.
Absolutely my favorite thing about Jeep builds is the ingenuity of the folks building them. :beer:
I get so many great ideas from you all.

 

[MTSN]

Ya that drawer works out great! Did you notice any change in sound coming from the subwoofer?

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Ya that drawer works out great! Did you notice any change in sound coming from the subwoofer?

I haven't yet. I figure it's bass, it should go through/around it anyway. I know a lot of people like to remove their sub. But I didn't really want to spend money to get rid of the subwoofer (replace with Sport trim). It would make sleeping easier though. I'll have to sleep at a diagonal. Things do rattle on the steel drawer. But the rubber mats should take care of that.