Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Doc's 08 Kawasaki KLR-650E Build
My quest for a Dual Sport bike started here: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13164
At first I lusted after a new KTM 990 Adventure... but at about $15,000... it was not a good choice for a first bike IMO.
So, after much research and deliberation, I decided on the tried and true Kawasaki KLR650 - the AK47 of motorcycles. If it's good enough for the USMC, it's the bike for me! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtcd1kSdlQY
I chose it for the price ($5,349 MSRP) and for a number of other reasons, first and foremost was the tried and true simplicity of this robust machine which has been in production and worldwide use since 1986. 2008 marked the first big changes for this big Kawasaki thumper.
Then I had to find one in Kawasaki Green, of course, and that was the hard part. It seems that there were none to be had until I walked into Temecula Motorsports where I found my first KLR, the Green Goblin
The plan is to keep her relatively stock (those of you who know me are laughing now) and focus on a very few necessary, frugal mods and farkle such as crash bars, upgraded tires etc, bags etc.
2008 Kawasaki KLR-650E
Displacement: 651cc
Four-stroke, liquid cooled, DOHC, four-valve single
Bore x Stroke: 100.0 x 83.0mm
Compression Ratio: 9.8:1
Fuel System: Carburetion, Keihin CVK40 carb
Ignition: Fully transistorized
Transmission: 5-speed
MSRP: $5,300
http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/detail.aspx?id=161
CURRENT MODS:
SW-Motech crash bars
12V outlet
Swapped OEM silver side panels for OEM black
Upgraded stock battery to Power Sonic sealed AGM type
Magellan Crossover GPS + Ram mount
Traded my OEM silver shrouds for OEM black shrouds
Wolfman Small Expedition tank bag
Pelican 1520 tailbox
Moose 1/2 inch offset footpegs
Kenda K270's, 19AUG11 at 3,250 miles
Rox risers 2.5 inch handlebar lift
KTM Supermoto front fender swap
Uni air filter
Eagle Mike subframe bolt kit, upgraded to 8mm
MAINTENANCE:
OIL
Recommended change interval: every 1000 miles (1600 km) using conventional oil; every 2000 miles (3200 km) using synthetic oil - or after operation in extremely wet/dirty conditions, or after prolonged idle.
-Tools & parts: 17mm hex-type box-end wrench, 8mm socket w/ drive, filter, crush-metal gasket, 3 quart containers of oil, gloves, waste oil pan.
-Recommended engine oil type: API SE, SF, SG, in addition to SH and SJ with JASO MA.
-Recommended engine oil viscosity: 10-40 between 14 and 104 degrees F (-10 to +40 C), 10-30 between 14 and 86 F (-10 to +30 C), and 20-50 between 32 and +104 F (0 to +40 C).
-Engine oil capacity: 2.6 quarts (2.5 L) if filter is removed; 2.3 quarts (2.2 L) if oil only is changed.
AIR FILTER
Recommended interval: at least every 6000 miles (10,000 km) - or after operation in extremely wet/dirty conditions.
SPARK PLUG
Recommended interval: clean and gap plug every 3000 miles (5000 km).
-Recommended spark plug gap: 0.8 - 0.9 mm (0.032 - 0.36 inches).
-OEM spark plug (NGK DPR8EA-9).
CHAIN CARE
Recommended interval: drive chain cleanliness, lubrication and tension should be checked at least every 400 miles (600 km).
-Recommended chain tension: 50 - 65 mm (2.0 - 2.6 inches) of play, when the motorcycle is resting on its sidestand, unmounted.
-Chain saw bar oil works surprisingly well as a motorcycle chain lubricant. Using WD-40 to clean the motorcycle's drive chain will not harm said chain's o-rings (Kawasaki suggests that kerosene be used to clean the chain.)
*NOTE: Chain cleaning and chain lubing are two distinct operations. applying a heavy oil to a chain - without removing accumulated grit - will result in the creation of an abrasive paste that will accelerate the wear of both the chain and also the chain sprockets.
TIRE CARE
Tire pressure/wear: check pressure when cold. The Factory's recommendation of 21 psi front and 28 psi was too soft for my taste (mostly pavement) so I run 30 and 35 respectively. Understand the following:
(a) less air in the tube results in better traction, but also increases the rate at which the tire/tube heat as a result of increased friction;
(b) more air in the tube results in less rolling resistance and greater load carrying capacity, but traction is diminished.
therefore:
- as load, speed and road conditions improve - increase air pressure, but never beyond tire rating!
- as load, speed and road conditions diminish - decrease air pressure, but not below ~15 psi without risking pinch flats.
BALANCER CHAIN aka "The Doohickey"
Balancer chain tension: On the operator's left side, to the rear of the shift pedal, a small black rubber cap hides a bolt in the engine's side cover. Said bolt ought to be loosened, and snugged tight again. There is no "magic" sound or sight to indicate that this operation has been performed correctly. BE GENTLE. You're most likely to have a problem if:
(a) you loosen the bolt too much;
(b) you re-tighten the bolt too much after having loosened it;
(c) you never make an effort to perform the adjustment;
(d) Kawasaki's parts - balancer lever or spring - fail.
Balancer system explained:
http://www.eagle-m-e.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW3EoK4SFWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrWfS_uAbWo&feature=related
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST:
1- Brakes: With the motorcycle "off" and in neutral, will the front brake hold/stop the bike? The rear brake? Is there an adequate amount of fluid in both of the resevoirs? Is that fluid less than two years old? Are brake pads of adequate thickness in the calipers? Are the brake discs clean? Have the brake cables been properly tensioned and lubricated?
2- Tires: Do the tires hold air? Is the air pressure in the tires adequate for the load you're carrying and surface upon which you're riding? Is there tread of adequate thickness on the tires? Is the tire compound young enough to provide adequate grip?
3- Oil: After running the engine in an open area till warm, turning it "off," and allowing the oil to settle - is the level correct? Is the oil less than 2,000 miles and one year old?
4- Clutch: Is the clutch cable adjusted properly? Does the clutch fully disengage? Has the clutch cable been lubricated?
5- Throttle: With the motorcycle off, does the throttle tube "snap" closed after being turned open?
6- Lights: Do the headlight, tail light, brake light and turn signals work?
7- Fastener Tightness: Have you checked those parts that are likely to loosen as a result of vibration? Handlebar mounted controls? Foot pegs? Shift pedal? Exhaust? Front fender? Side stand? Subframe bolts?
8- Battery: If you use the stock battery, or a similar model, have you checked the fluid levels recently? Has the motorcycle tipped over? Been run at high speed in the heat? Have you checked the fluid levels again?
9- Chain: When was the last time that you cleaned and lubed the chain? In what condition are the chain and sprockets? Is the chain tension appropriate for the load you're carrying and surface upon which you're riding?
10- Coolant: Is there an adequate amount of coolant in the reservoir? Is that coolant less than two years old?
11- Fuel: Do you know the amount of fuel in your motorcycle, and the range available to you? Are you comfortable with the operation of the petcock?
12- You: Are you sober, rested and focused on what you're about to do? Gear? ATGATT?
KLR TOOLKIT:
Most of the tools listed below can be found in the motorcycle's Factory kit. It is worth noting that the spark plug socket contained in said kit is especially useful. Having written that, it might be helpful to purchase additional items - including, but not limited to, larger wrenches and a small socket set of a good quality.
Basic Maintenance:
24, 22, 19, 17, 14, 12, 10 mm combination wrenches
10, 8, 5 mm sockets with 1/4 inch drive and extension
18 mm thin-wall spark plug socket and drive
#1, #2, #3 Phillips head screwdrivers
6mm T-handle allen wrench
Pliers
Spark plug gapping tool, 0.8 - 0.9 mm or 0.032 - 0.36 in
Extras on Road:
2 tire irons
17 and 21 inch tubes
air pump
Fluids: oil, brake, water
2nd air filter, already oiled, in a bag
Safety pins
Electrical tape
Zip ties and/or wire
2-part epoxy/weld
Stand (2x4 for tripod w/kickstand)
Chain lube kit
New for 2008: Bigger brakes!
Near Santa Rosa Plateau Nature Preserve, CA: My new friends acted like they'd never seen a rider before and howled up a storm!
My quest for a Dual Sport bike started here: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13164
At first I lusted after a new KTM 990 Adventure... but at about $15,000... it was not a good choice for a first bike IMO.
So, after much research and deliberation, I decided on the tried and true Kawasaki KLR650 - the AK47 of motorcycles. If it's good enough for the USMC, it's the bike for me! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtcd1kSdlQY
I chose it for the price ($5,349 MSRP) and for a number of other reasons, first and foremost was the tried and true simplicity of this robust machine which has been in production and worldwide use since 1986. 2008 marked the first big changes for this big Kawasaki thumper.
Then I had to find one in Kawasaki Green, of course, and that was the hard part. It seems that there were none to be had until I walked into Temecula Motorsports where I found my first KLR, the Green Goblin
The plan is to keep her relatively stock (those of you who know me are laughing now) and focus on a very few necessary, frugal mods and farkle such as crash bars, upgraded tires etc, bags etc.
2008 Kawasaki KLR-650E
Displacement: 651cc
Four-stroke, liquid cooled, DOHC, four-valve single
Bore x Stroke: 100.0 x 83.0mm
Compression Ratio: 9.8:1
Fuel System: Carburetion, Keihin CVK40 carb
Ignition: Fully transistorized
Transmission: 5-speed
MSRP: $5,300
http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/detail.aspx?id=161
CURRENT MODS:
SW-Motech crash bars
12V outlet
Swapped OEM silver side panels for OEM black
Upgraded stock battery to Power Sonic sealed AGM type
Magellan Crossover GPS + Ram mount
Traded my OEM silver shrouds for OEM black shrouds
Wolfman Small Expedition tank bag
Pelican 1520 tailbox
Moose 1/2 inch offset footpegs
Kenda K270's, 19AUG11 at 3,250 miles
Rox risers 2.5 inch handlebar lift
KTM Supermoto front fender swap
Uni air filter
Eagle Mike subframe bolt kit, upgraded to 8mm
MAINTENANCE:
OIL
Recommended change interval: every 1000 miles (1600 km) using conventional oil; every 2000 miles (3200 km) using synthetic oil - or after operation in extremely wet/dirty conditions, or after prolonged idle.
-Tools & parts: 17mm hex-type box-end wrench, 8mm socket w/ drive, filter, crush-metal gasket, 3 quart containers of oil, gloves, waste oil pan.
-Recommended engine oil type: API SE, SF, SG, in addition to SH and SJ with JASO MA.
-Recommended engine oil viscosity: 10-40 between 14 and 104 degrees F (-10 to +40 C), 10-30 between 14 and 86 F (-10 to +30 C), and 20-50 between 32 and +104 F (0 to +40 C).
-Engine oil capacity: 2.6 quarts (2.5 L) if filter is removed; 2.3 quarts (2.2 L) if oil only is changed.
AIR FILTER
Recommended interval: at least every 6000 miles (10,000 km) - or after operation in extremely wet/dirty conditions.
SPARK PLUG
Recommended interval: clean and gap plug every 3000 miles (5000 km).
-Recommended spark plug gap: 0.8 - 0.9 mm (0.032 - 0.36 inches).
-OEM spark plug (NGK DPR8EA-9).
CHAIN CARE
Recommended interval: drive chain cleanliness, lubrication and tension should be checked at least every 400 miles (600 km).
-Recommended chain tension: 50 - 65 mm (2.0 - 2.6 inches) of play, when the motorcycle is resting on its sidestand, unmounted.
-Chain saw bar oil works surprisingly well as a motorcycle chain lubricant. Using WD-40 to clean the motorcycle's drive chain will not harm said chain's o-rings (Kawasaki suggests that kerosene be used to clean the chain.)
*NOTE: Chain cleaning and chain lubing are two distinct operations. applying a heavy oil to a chain - without removing accumulated grit - will result in the creation of an abrasive paste that will accelerate the wear of both the chain and also the chain sprockets.
TIRE CARE
Tire pressure/wear: check pressure when cold. The Factory's recommendation of 21 psi front and 28 psi was too soft for my taste (mostly pavement) so I run 30 and 35 respectively. Understand the following:
(a) less air in the tube results in better traction, but also increases the rate at which the tire/tube heat as a result of increased friction;
(b) more air in the tube results in less rolling resistance and greater load carrying capacity, but traction is diminished.
therefore:
- as load, speed and road conditions improve - increase air pressure, but never beyond tire rating!
- as load, speed and road conditions diminish - decrease air pressure, but not below ~15 psi without risking pinch flats.
BALANCER CHAIN aka "The Doohickey"
Balancer chain tension: On the operator's left side, to the rear of the shift pedal, a small black rubber cap hides a bolt in the engine's side cover. Said bolt ought to be loosened, and snugged tight again. There is no "magic" sound or sight to indicate that this operation has been performed correctly. BE GENTLE. You're most likely to have a problem if:
(a) you loosen the bolt too much;
(b) you re-tighten the bolt too much after having loosened it;
(c) you never make an effort to perform the adjustment;
(d) Kawasaki's parts - balancer lever or spring - fail.
Balancer system explained:
http://www.eagle-m-e.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW3EoK4SFWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrWfS_uAbWo&feature=related
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST:
1- Brakes: With the motorcycle "off" and in neutral, will the front brake hold/stop the bike? The rear brake? Is there an adequate amount of fluid in both of the resevoirs? Is that fluid less than two years old? Are brake pads of adequate thickness in the calipers? Are the brake discs clean? Have the brake cables been properly tensioned and lubricated?
2- Tires: Do the tires hold air? Is the air pressure in the tires adequate for the load you're carrying and surface upon which you're riding? Is there tread of adequate thickness on the tires? Is the tire compound young enough to provide adequate grip?
3- Oil: After running the engine in an open area till warm, turning it "off," and allowing the oil to settle - is the level correct? Is the oil less than 2,000 miles and one year old?
4- Clutch: Is the clutch cable adjusted properly? Does the clutch fully disengage? Has the clutch cable been lubricated?
5- Throttle: With the motorcycle off, does the throttle tube "snap" closed after being turned open?
6- Lights: Do the headlight, tail light, brake light and turn signals work?
7- Fastener Tightness: Have you checked those parts that are likely to loosen as a result of vibration? Handlebar mounted controls? Foot pegs? Shift pedal? Exhaust? Front fender? Side stand? Subframe bolts?
8- Battery: If you use the stock battery, or a similar model, have you checked the fluid levels recently? Has the motorcycle tipped over? Been run at high speed in the heat? Have you checked the fluid levels again?
9- Chain: When was the last time that you cleaned and lubed the chain? In what condition are the chain and sprockets? Is the chain tension appropriate for the load you're carrying and surface upon which you're riding?
10- Coolant: Is there an adequate amount of coolant in the reservoir? Is that coolant less than two years old?
11- Fuel: Do you know the amount of fuel in your motorcycle, and the range available to you? Are you comfortable with the operation of the petcock?
12- You: Are you sober, rested and focused on what you're about to do? Gear? ATGATT?
KLR TOOLKIT:
Most of the tools listed below can be found in the motorcycle's Factory kit. It is worth noting that the spark plug socket contained in said kit is especially useful. Having written that, it might be helpful to purchase additional items - including, but not limited to, larger wrenches and a small socket set of a good quality.
Basic Maintenance:
24, 22, 19, 17, 14, 12, 10 mm combination wrenches
10, 8, 5 mm sockets with 1/4 inch drive and extension
18 mm thin-wall spark plug socket and drive
#1, #2, #3 Phillips head screwdrivers
6mm T-handle allen wrench
Pliers
Spark plug gapping tool, 0.8 - 0.9 mm or 0.032 - 0.36 in
Extras on Road:
2 tire irons
17 and 21 inch tubes
air pump
Fluids: oil, brake, water
2nd air filter, already oiled, in a bag
Safety pins
Electrical tape
Zip ties and/or wire
2-part epoxy/weld
Stand (2x4 for tripod w/kickstand)
Chain lube kit
New for 2008: Bigger brakes!
Near Santa Rosa Plateau Nature Preserve, CA: My new friends acted like they'd never seen a rider before and howled up a storm!
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