Overland Hadley
on a journey
My OME with Dakars can hold the weight just fine. The problem is that I am well over gvwr when packed for a trip.
Building My Overland Tacoma: Plans, Progress, Perplexions
- Thread starter Overland Hadley
- Start date
My OME with Dakars can hold the weight just fine. The problem is that I am well over gvwr when packed for a trip.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
That is the reason why I like the bumper.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I like the idea of the swing gates being the bed tailgate, but I think they would have to be bolted to the bed rather than the bumper. My concern is that the frame and the bed don't move exactly together. The flip side is that if bolted to the bed that considerable load distribution under-structure would need to be put in place to keep the weight from tearing up the bed.
I've never paid much attention to GVW. I just always pack as light as I reasonably can and don't worry about it. I'm not a glamper, so the espresso machine and the wine rack stay at home. :sombrero:
I built the front winch bumper for Patch. Without a winch in it, it is all that I want to do to pick it up by myself. I'll estimate that it's slightly over 100 lbs. The winch floor and side frames are 1/4" plate while the rest of it is 10 gauge except for the mounting structure and the shackle tabs.
That a rear bumper, less swing gates, could be that heavy tells me that it's thick. If that weight includes the swing gates then I doubt it could be much lighter and do the job it's been given.
I've never paid much attention to GVW. I just always pack as light as I reasonably can and don't worry about it. I'm not a glamper, so the espresso machine and the wine rack stay at home. :sombrero:
I built the front winch bumper for Patch. Without a winch in it, it is all that I want to do to pick it up by myself. I'll estimate that it's slightly over 100 lbs. The winch floor and side frames are 1/4" plate while the rest of it is 10 gauge except for the mounting structure and the shackle tabs.
That a rear bumper, less swing gates, could be that heavy tells me that it's thick. If that weight includes the swing gates then I doubt it could be much lighter and do the job it's been given.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I really wish I could find a camper like this here in NA.
Yes I know there is the Flip-Pac, but I do not like the Flip-Pac's design and the idea of having to use a rain fly if it is going to rain hard is kind of crazy to me. A FWC would be nice, but they are expensive and just to darn heavy for a Tacoma.
http://www.special-mobils.com/docs/produkte/hardtops.htm#
Yes I know there is the Flip-Pac, but I do not like the Flip-Pac's design and the idea of having to use a rain fly if it is going to rain hard is kind of crazy to me. A FWC would be nice, but they are expensive and just to darn heavy for a Tacoma.
http://www.special-mobils.com/docs/produkte/hardtops.htm#
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Overland Hadley
on a journey
I would like some advice on airing down my tires.
(They are BFG AT's, size 265/75.)
What is a good PSI to air down to, and what should the maximum speed be at that PSI?
I understand there are lots of variables, but what is a good rule to go by? Should I air down for a rough and corrugated dirt/gravel road, or only air down for slow travel over rocks?
Thanks for the help.
(They are BFG AT's, size 265/75.)
What is a good PSI to air down to, and what should the maximum speed be at that PSI?
I understand there are lots of variables, but what is a good rule to go by? Should I air down for a rough and corrugated dirt/gravel road, or only air down for slow travel over rocks?
Thanks for the help.
kcowyo
ExPo Original
I like 18PSI with the BFG AT's for washboards, ruts and sand. On the road from Ubehebe Crater to Teakettle Junction for example, 18 PSI is good. That road is still rough but tolerable.
If I'm airing down, chances are I'll likely be in 4hi alot and 4lo some. So my speed seldom gets above 35mph on a dirt trail in 4wd. In 4lo at 18PSI, I couldn't go much above 5mph-8mph. In 4hi or 4lo, I listen to the RPM's more than I watch the speedometer.
I've aired down as low as 15PSI on the Alpine Loop in CO, due to the rocks, but I really couldn't tell much difference between 15 and 18.
.
If I'm airing down, chances are I'll likely be in 4hi alot and 4lo some. So my speed seldom gets above 35mph on a dirt trail in 4wd. In 4lo at 18PSI, I couldn't go much above 5mph-8mph. In 4hi or 4lo, I listen to the RPM's more than I watch the speedometer.
I've aired down as low as 15PSI on the Alpine Loop in CO, due to the rocks, but I really couldn't tell much difference between 15 and 18.
.
Photog
Explorer
One rule-of-thumb I have read about, and try to adhere to is:
Drop pressure until the sidewall is 75% of maximum height.
How do you do this?
1) With your truck loaded for travel, air up the tires to max listed on the sidewall.
2) Measure from pavement to edge of wheel (sidewall height).
3) Calculate 75% of that height (sidewall height X .75).
4) Let air out of tire, until the sidewall is at the 75% measurement.
5) Measure tire pressure for future reference.
You can see that this pressure will be different, depending on how much weight is in the truck. The numbers will be different from front to rear. Use the higher of the two, and set them all the same.
You will want to run this same test, unloaded. With these two sets of numbers, you will know what range of pressure to run.
(Jacket's reply reminded me of this too)
For washboards, you may want to use 85% instead of 75%, since it is for comfort instead of traction.
Let us know what you come up with.:smiley_drive:
Drop pressure until the sidewall is 75% of maximum height.
How do you do this?
1) With your truck loaded for travel, air up the tires to max listed on the sidewall.
2) Measure from pavement to edge of wheel (sidewall height).
3) Calculate 75% of that height (sidewall height X .75).
4) Let air out of tire, until the sidewall is at the 75% measurement.
5) Measure tire pressure for future reference.
You can see that this pressure will be different, depending on how much weight is in the truck. The numbers will be different from front to rear. Use the higher of the two, and set them all the same.
You will want to run this same test, unloaded. With these two sets of numbers, you will know what range of pressure to run.
(Jacket's reply reminded me of this too)
For washboards, you may want to use 85% instead of 75%, since it is for comfort instead of traction.
Let us know what you come up with.:smiley_drive:
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Jacket
2008 Expedition Trophy Champion
Depends on the terrain, but generally speaking:
20-25psi on washboard dirt roads; speeds less than 45mph.
15psi on rocky trails where I'm in 4Lo going 15mph or less.
<5psi to escape the "stuck in the sand challenge" at Trophy 2008....
For dirt/washboard, the airing down is mostly for ride comfort. For rocks and sand, I air down for better traction.
20-25psi on washboard dirt roads; speeds less than 45mph.
15psi on rocky trails where I'm in 4Lo going 15mph or less.
<5psi to escape the "stuck in the sand challenge" at Trophy 2008....
For dirt/washboard, the airing down is mostly for ride comfort. For rocks and sand, I air down for better traction.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Thanks guys!
Sounds like I was on the right track, airing down to 18 or 20 on rough roads. And I usually drive slow.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
That is some great information!
I look forward to giving this a try, although it sounds like a good project for the warmer weather of spring.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
While we are on the subject of tire pressure, what is a typical street psi for BFG AT's?
I just read about doing the chalk test, but at the moment there is no clear road surfaces around here. (Everything is snow covered.) So I will have to wait to chalk test my tires.
I understand how you could tell if the tire is over-inflated, but how could you tell if it is under-inflated?
I just read about doing the chalk test, but at the moment there is no clear road surfaces around here. (Everything is snow covered.) So I will have to wait to chalk test my tires.
I understand how you could tell if the tire is over-inflated, but how could you tell if it is under-inflated?
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Now that Spencer Davis is through rockin.........
My aired down tire pressure for Patch was very carefully & scientifically arrived at. It's what my McMaster-Carr sourced 20 psi blow-off valve (p/n
48435K72) stops at; 19 psi. I've run this pressure on the 33-9.50 BFG A/T's, and both of the sets of BFG 33-10.50's - the A/T's and the M/T's.
I do not air down Patch for washboard. I run my street pressure, 30-32 psi, and climb up 'on top' of it & roll! The Suburban weighs enough more and it's suspension isn't as well developed so I do need to air it down for washboard. 35-40 psi works very well for it (285/75-R16 BFG A/T's, street = 50 psi). Still stiff enough that lateral control isn't lost, but ride quality isn't too compromised.
The chalk test, when under inflated, should show chalk still remaining in the center of the tire.
My aired down tire pressure for Patch was very carefully & scientifically arrived at. It's what my McMaster-Carr sourced 20 psi blow-off valve (p/n
48435K72) stops at; 19 psi. I've run this pressure on the 33-9.50 BFG A/T's, and both of the sets of BFG 33-10.50's - the A/T's and the M/T's.
I do not air down Patch for washboard. I run my street pressure, 30-32 psi, and climb up 'on top' of it & roll! The Suburban weighs enough more and it's suspension isn't as well developed so I do need to air it down for washboard. 35-40 psi works very well for it (285/75-R16 BFG A/T's, street = 50 psi). Still stiff enough that lateral control isn't lost, but ride quality isn't too compromised.
The chalk test, when under inflated, should show chalk still remaining in the center of the tire.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
10-4. Thanks.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
The back-up light project has begun.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I wish I was better at wiring.
