Cabin Fever 2005 double cab Tundra "build"

Made some progress on the suspension finally and got the front completely done today.

5100’s 3rd notch, factory springs
KYB Top mounts
Replaced Oem Lower ball joints (old ones still looked like new at 177k?)
Cleaned speed sensors
Cleaned and re tighten pinion seal on rack (it’s got a small leak
Gave everything a nice scrub and wash.

6F7BCB99-7F3D-4539-82F4-9671819AAE45.jpeg

Something always has to go wrong. Luckily this little bolt came right out with a counter drill.

1949B3AF-BE7F-4A24-94C9-D8EB378B5F0D.jpeg668D9FDC-4B4F-4438-AF4A-061AC78B8DE2.jpeg

Everything torqued and job done.

96E58506-6089-4536-8B43-AFE3119429D3.jpeg

Gave me exactly a 2” lift and put me right at 22” hub to fender in the front and 21” in the rear. Front should settle down some to where I want. I have Wheelers progressive AAL coming in this week. I think with out the over load spring and the 5100’s in the rear, should sit just right with a slight rake even with the topper and added weight in rear.

2669143F-8CF0-44C7-8C0D-00EDE104779D.jpegAE19BD56-8426-4237-BF4E-7866D7B01D1D.jpeg
 

tennesseewj

Observer
Thanks! So far I just have some very minor rubbing at full lock left turns on the frame. Nothing to worry about.

As you noted the TRD SEMA wheels have a slightly more aggressive offset (4mm vs 15mm) which would push your tire out from the frame just under 1/2". Do you think that would be adequate to eliminate the frame rubbing?

Also, the lift looks good. Getting a little rake back from the AAL will definitely help, too.


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As you noted the TRD SEMA wheels have a slightly more aggressive offset (4mm vs 15mm) which would push your tire out from the frame just under 1/2". Do you think that would be adequate to eliminate the frame rubbing?

Also, the lift looks good. Getting a little rake back from the AAL will definitely help, too.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

After the small lift the rubbing is even less noticeable. Still only on slow full lock left turns. Not enough to need to do anything about it and honestly I think It may go away as the tires wears a bit.

I still wouldn't mind finding some Sema wheels or another option of 7.5" slighting lower offset oem wheel. How close the whole upper arm, spindle, ball joint assembly is to the tire just bothers me, even though its about the same as stock. I just don't want to go the spacer route, trying to eliminate any possible weak links.

And thanks, I'm looking forward to getting the rear done soon!
 
Mattress came in. I ordered one to check for fit but quickly ordered a second one. Just what I was looking for, folds up and has a durable washable cover. We’ll see how the foam does over time but at just 3 inches it’s good enough for me. Couldn’t ask for a better fit.

Here’s where I found it: https://www.amazon.com/American-Furniture-Alliance-TriFold-Mattress/dp/B00CL9900E?th=1&psc=1

FD58263F-9FCD-4232-9BEC-9EBE3C3C302E.jpegB40ABC9E-52E4-4E3E-8B55-4EA1B1E5C3D9.jpeg

Also upon inspecting the new suspension I noticed grease coming out of the outer cv on the driver side. During install I did notice some fresh grease leaked out from the inside of the clamp but didn’t think it would continue when back in place. So what now? I think there might be a slight tear on the rubber under the clamp. *searching replacement boots*
46BFC3A3-E33C-4D08-BF76-DEFA84B48684.jpeg
 
Here’s a close up of the cv boot leak. You can see the grease squeezing out fbasically under the clamp.

Think a hose clamp could remedy it? Or a punctured boot that needs to be replaced?

These boots look like new and were replaced by toyota around 90k miles. My ************** must have puncture it during the shock install.?

5640541F-45EA-4B3C-A055-B2228FE3EA67.jpeg

On the plus side, the second mattress came in and it’s like I had them custom made. Perfect fit, seems easy to clean, and so far pretty comfortable. Oh and my 12v fridge came in! More on that later.

C72E25E7-5979-4096-A10F-3301AD723060.jpeg
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
Made some progress on the suspension finally and got the front completely done today.

5100’s 3rd notch, factory springs
KYB Top mounts
Replaced Oem Lower ball joints (old ones still looked like new at 177k?)
Cleaned speed sensors
Cleaned and re tighten pinion seal on rack (it’s got a small leak
Gave everything a nice scrub and wash.

View attachment 582425

Something always has to go wrong. Luckily this little bolt came right out with a counter drill.

View attachment 582426View attachment 582427

Everything torqued and job done.

View attachment 582428

Gave me exactly a 2” lift and put me right at 22” hub to fender in the front and 21” in the rear. Front should settle down some to where I want. I have Wheelers progressive AAL coming in this week. I think with out the over load spring and the 5100’s in the rear, should sit just right with a slight rake even with the topper and added weight in rear.

View attachment 582429View attachment 582430
What size are your wheels and tires?
Kevin
 

Cole.

New member
Generally you’re going to need to either replace or reboot the cv axles. I’ve read that OEM cv axles are superior to aftermarket on our trucks so installing a new boot might be your most effective option.
 
Generally you’re going to need to either replace or reboot the cv axles. I’ve read that OEM cv axles are superior to aftermarket on our trucks so installing a new boot might be your most effective option.

I plan on re booting the axle with the oem kit. Already ordering the parts and tools. But for now I’m going to try a little bandaid. I removed the outer clamp and found the two, toothpick point sized, pinholes.

I’m going to clean it off really well and apply a dab of rtv over the two tiny holes. Then re clamp it with the recommended hose clamp. Fount it as part of a repair kit at auto zone.

image.jpg

One pin hole I’m confident will seal up as it’s just in the edge of the clamp and will stay still. The other pin hole is in the very middle of the first valley crease. That one may move too much. We’ll see, maybe it’ll keep me from having to do the axle job for a few weeks.
 
Thanks I am buying an 03 4x4 ext cab and have 285 75 16s for my first gen runner think 2.5 lift will clear it?
Kevin

Lift is not the issue. You can clear those with no lift.
The concern is clearance between tire and suspension. Specifically the upper control arm. Reach around the top of the tire and you will see how close it is.

So as you go wider on the tire you also have to push the wheel farther out. A lot of folks running 285/75r16’s on their Toyota’s, usually with aftermarket wheels or spacers to clear them.

I have none of those issues with my 255’s :cool:
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
Lift is not the issue. You can clear those with no lift.
The concern is clearance between tire and suspension. Specifically the upper control arm. Reach around the top of the tire and you will see how close it is.

So as you go wider on the tire you also have to push the wheel farther out. A lot of folks running 285/75r16’s on their Toyota’s, usually with aftermarket wheels or spacers to clear them.

I have none of those issues with my 255’s :cool:
Thanks yeah I figured I would have to space it out so I can turn without rubbing. You think 2.5" and spacer will do the trick
Kevin
 

tennesseewj

Observer
Thanks yeah I figured I would have to space it out so I can turn without rubbing. You think 2.5" and spacer will do the trick
Kevin
That's a pretty typically setup. You will likely have to remove the front mudflaps, if equipped, and some still experience minor rubbing under "full stuff" conditions.

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