Canadian Disco 2 Build

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Ok, so since my build thread is completely hyjacked at this point, I might as well join in.

What is it you guys like so much about the Classic? I'm not disagreeing, I'm asking because I don't know, never driven one, don't see them often, etc. I get that it's got handsome styling... but what makes you like them so much, vs. a Discovery or... something else? I totally get why Defenders are desirable. So what am I missing on the RR?
 

muskyman

Explorer
they are built to a much higher order then disco's


they have more sound proofing for one, they are almost silant on the road compared to a disco.

they have more creature comforts, the 95's are almost like what the DII in that respect.

the seats are 100% more comfortable and made from thicker better materials that dont break down at the same rate over time.

they drive lighter and more nimble by a large amount.

the braking system is super powerful and dosent mess up over bumpy roads like the D1's do. The brakes are better then the DII's as well.

The smaller frontal area and flat roof make them get better milage then the disco as well.

the classic station wagon drop gate is more usefull then a full size tailgate.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Ok. Cool. I've got my eyes out for a daily driver, not a beater per se but... cheap. I'm driving an 03 Focus Wagon right now, just doesn't really do it for me. It's the wife's old car, it's auto, pretty gutless, the seats suck, horrible sound deadening. I love Focuses, and wagons, but this thing is more "luxury" optioned instead of sporty like my hatchbacks. And by 03 they'd really cheaped out on the sound deadening.

I actually would love an 04-05 Freelander. I like everything about it for a daily driver, the styling, the way it drives, etc. But... I just can't get my head around the very real possibility the engine and trans will **** the bed for no reason. I'd thought it would be cool if I could find an old Classic for cheap, but, I don't see any for sale. I wonder if they didn't come into Canada?
 

muskyman

Explorer
Ok. Cool. I've got my eyes out for a daily driver, not a beater per se but... cheap. I'm driving an 03 Focus Wagon right now, just doesn't really do it for me. It's the wife's old car, it's auto, pretty gutless, the seats suck, horrible sound deadening. I love Focuses, and wagons, but this thing is more "luxury" optioned instead of sporty like my hatchbacks. And by 03 they'd really cheaped out on the sound deadening.

I actually would love an 04-05 Freelander. I like everything about it for a daily driver, the styling, the way it drives, etc. But... I just can't get my head around the very real possibility the engine and trans will **** the bed for no reason. I'd thought it would be cool if I could find an old Classic for cheap, but, I don't see any for sale. I wonder if they didn't come into Canada?

I know of a few classics for sale
 

michaelgroves

Explorer
Ok, so since my build thread is completely hyjacked at this point...

Sorry about that! But consider it a temporary digression...

I like the big RRC windscreen too - for some reason when they designed the Discovery they made the top of the roof bend down to meet the glass. (I think they had old Sherpa van windscreens in stock, and decided the Disco was a good way of using them up). Anyway, the sense of endless windscreen is a big plus on the RRC.
 

michaelgroves

Explorer
the braking system is super powerful and dosent mess up over bumpy roads like the D1's do. The brakes are better then the DII's as well.

Yes, and they had a proper dual circuit (one circuit to all 4 wheel, the other to the front only), rather than a single, diagonally split system.

And don't forget the Boge Hydromat self-levelling unit in the back axle wishbone. It's how they managed such supple suspension without losing too much load-carrying capacity.

And the older ones came with a crank handle for starting the engine with a flat battery! You have to love that on a luxury car!
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
sorry for the hijack, Rob ... I just *might* have had a couple beers in me and was reminiscing over old photographs when I read all the stuff on water crossings in your thread. In the Pacific Northwest there is plenty of water - deep bogs, puddles, and a few stream crossings.

Since we're here ... I thought I'd point out some of the not-so-good stuff ...

Yes, and they had a proper dual circuit (one circuit to all 4 wheel, the other to the front only), rather than a single, diagonally split system.

RRC also feature vented front rotors whereas D1's are all solid disc up front. Pre-ABS trucks from '87 and '88 are working very hard to stop 32's and the usual armor - ARB bullbar, rack, etc. My friend's 1987 could not lock up the brakes on pavement after being kitted out.

In the ABS equipped '89-95 trucks the brakes are acceptable up to narrow 33" tires, but I wouldn't be quick to over sell them for towing heavy loads over long distances in the hills, or slowing down more than 7~8" wide tire. Getting the system to work well involves a thorough flush and fluid change, and making sure the vacuum reservoir is replaced with a new and genuine LR unit. The ABS motor used to pressurize the system is expensive to replace, and frequently is burned out because of an aged or failed v. reservoir. After replacing the reservoir and upgrading all four flexible lines to braided stainless lines on the front calipers I noticed a huge improvement from when I first got the truck.

I think the extra circuit for the front brakes is something of a joke on 32" tires or larger. I blew the ABS fuse on a trail run far from the city on one outing, and the brakes were useless. Having said that, it does seem to make a great improvement when the system is fully functional :) Carry spare 30 amp fuses at all times!

One more thing about the brakes: be ready for more bleed valves than you've ever seen on a passenger car. Fluid changes are NOT trivial without one of the power-bleeders. I think my 1991 counted over 10 but I can't remember what the exact number was. I just know it took a long time. And each has to be bled *in sequence*.

And don't forget the Boge Hydromat self-levelling unit in the back axle wishbone. It's how they managed such supple suspension without losing too much load-carrying capacity.

The "magic carpet" rangie ride! ... doesn't last ... They are all certainly worn out by now. My stock suspension lived for a while under hard use, then the Boge unit gave up and it started to sag very badly, bottoming out on the bumpstops while on trails. Replacing the the Boge unit is cost prohibitive. Rovers North is the only vendor I think that retails the thing in the states, and it's priced at $863 US.

A note on the engine ... the OBD1 14cux ECU is pretty simple, and there's a digital code reader built into the newer trucks under the passenger seat. However, the 3.9L motors are very finicky compared to 4.0L GEMS and bosch powered trucks. They will always, almost without fail, throw 02 sensor codes when anything is wrong. The 3.5L engine found in '87 and '88 models was a bit less prone to these kinds of troubles for some reason, but it's grossly underpowered. It seems like I was always, always chasing some little gremlin on both Rangies while the OBDII Disco fellas never had much of an issue with anything. Be warned that quite a few owners let the check engine light burn out or manually remove it because they get tired of staring at it all the time.

------

If you're not driving your DII every day as it's currently setup, it would be foolish to think of owning an RRC as a daily driver. The gas mileage is terrible, and any truck you find is going to be a bit rough on the interior. It will not be as quiet as your DII on the highway, and likely not as comfortable. The front windscreen fogs up pretty easily and the vents don't do a very good job directing the air where it's needed. If you're lucky enough to get one with a heated front windscreen, spend the money to repair it and keep it working.

I don't care for the Disco style interior of the 1995 classics, but they might hold up a bit better as the old style's numerous trim pieces (especially the center console) get dodgy over time.

If all that didn't scare you away and you're still keen on finding a Rangie, look for one that's been maintained and gently used off-road by an enthusiast. You can score an all stock classic for next to nothing these days, just know that it will be more of a restoration project than a daily driver.

Even after recounting all the horrors I went through with my 2 trucks I'm still ready for a 3rd. The visibility and driving ergonomics are dead-nuts perfect for me. I love the seats, the fold down tailgate, and the clean roof line.

Most of all I just LOVE how they drive. It seems easier to "read" the terrain in an RRC when off-road. They really lend themselves toward precision driving and using the awesome ground clearance and approach angle to your advantage, as opposed to the Jeep mentality of bullying over every rock and ravine with huge tires and lift. This doesn't seem to work as well in the Discos in my opinion - they seem a lot more isolated from the road and the trail. I can't speak for Defenders as I haven't had any significant seat time off-road in them.

cheers
-ike
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Don't worry, you've cured me of any notion of getting an RRC as a daily driver. ;) I already have 2 project cars, don't need another. :)

Anyway, so last night I got the bumper off last night and going to try to pick up some steel today. I'm thinking of going with a 2x6" main beam, and tapering it up at the ends. So it would be simliar in look to many of the Defender bumpers. I want a bit more coverage at the back for when somebody inevitably rams into me. :D

I'll lose a little clearance for when going down steps, but the basic departure angle angle should still be better than all the other aftermarket bumpers I've seen save the Greg Davis.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Well, I had a busy weekend and didn't get too much done. But I got the back disassembled and started building the bumper. Hat tip to Michaels for a few tips. I probably would have done something overly complicated here. 1/4" plate mounting brackets, drilled holes and bolted them in place. The nuts get welded in place. I'm using Grade 8 bolts. I've drilled large holes in the backside of the bumper beam to clear these nuts. Next the beam will be fit up, tacked to these plates, then it will all be removed and fully welded.

I'm TIGing the whole thing again. I'm already looking forward to drying to do an overhead TIG weld, on my back, under the truck. :Wow1:

I also cut off the tailpipe as it'll be in the way of the beam. I'll take the resonator off later once I get a bit more courage.

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michaels

Explorer
Well, I had a busy weekend and didn't get too much done. But I got the back disassembled and started building the bumper. Hat tip to Michaels for a few tips. I probably would have done something overly complicated here. 1/4" plate mounting brackets, drilled holes and bolted them in place. The nuts get welded in place. I'm using Grade 8 bolts. I've drilled large holes in the backside of the bumper beam to clear these nuts. Next the beam will be fit up, tacked to these plates, then it will all be removed and fully welded.

I'm TIGing the whole thing again. I'm already looking forward to drying to do an upsidedown TIG weld, on my back, under the truck. :Wow1:

I also cut off the tailpipe as it'll be in the way of the beam. I'll take the resonator off later once I get a bit more courage.

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oh how flattering. :ylsmoke:

DSC_0075-1.jpg
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Yeah, I tend to think of things more of a production scenario. Was already going to use the backing plate, but I was planning on welding them on first, then trying to locate the holes and drilling through the plate and bumper and welding in a machined weld nut.

:smilies27
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Got to work on it about an hour last night. Got the bumper leveled up and clamped down so I could tack the mounting plates onto the beam. I was kinda nervous about that. Going to have to TIG weld on my back. I put the footplate on it's side, with it's bottom facing a wall. That way I could operate it by sort of pushing against the wall with one foot. I was pretty impressed. Here's a tack weld from me lying on my back, overhead, vertical down, and off-handed.

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It's a minor detail, but I was really happy with that. It's only a 1/8th" fillet weld but I can't get much more out of my 180A welder and the beam is only 1/8" anyway.

Then I removed the bumper and started welding the perimeter of the plates. Was flirting with thermal shutdown since my EconoTIG only has 10% duty cycle. I got both plates half done.

Oh, I have the battery disconnected and all the computers unplugged, just in case.
 

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R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Well, I was wondering how good my welding was getting after the miles of bead I laid when building my trailer. It was hard to tell, because almost none of the trailer had me sitting on a proper chair, working flat on a workbench. So this was my first opportunity for that:

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(Had trouble getting a good macro on this, between focus and lighting.... )

So, both plates are finished. The ends are marked for cut and tweak for the first bend to match the plastic corner finishers. Then I'll taper the ends up to only 4" deep.

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(Geez the lighting in my garage sucks. Maybe I should be using a tripod?)
 

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