Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

Oh, you cut it right off and welded a whole new piece on? Yeah, for slight bends, this method is easier.

I'm still not completely decided on using those finisher pieces or not. If I do use them, I'll weld something to the top of the bumper to close the gap. It's like a 1/2" right now and... meh. The problem with using them is that if I'm doing a swingaway, I kinda need to put the pivot right where those pieces are. There's not a lot of real estate to work with on these slim bumpers. The only other option is to have the spindle for the swingaway somehow welded to the surface so it's clear of the finisher. I'm not sure how I feel about that.

Even if I don't use the finishers, having that angle in there is still nice, just makes it a little less agricultural. And if I don't use it, I'll replicate the finishers in 14 ga steel. Will take some work but, I like doing this.

Finished machining my shackle mounting brackets this morning. I think they'll go just inside of those backing plates, so directly inline with the frame. The only other option is just outside of the backing plates. Because either way, I want them welded directly to the backing plates.

 

[michaels]

do the pivot like this. this is my plan as well. Denny at HLC fab is letting me "borrow" his shop sometime in teh near future, and i'll be building a swing awayw that opens with the door.

here ya go:

as you can see, it uses gussets to hold the spindle to the bumper side. from there, the gussets are plated over to hide the "ribs" and lower part of the spindle, giving it strength and a finished look.

 

[Red90]

Sorry, that is overlap. You have inadeqaute fusion to the lower piece. You are running too cold and not welding the complete lower plate prior to allowing the pool to run onto it . I'm a welding inspector.

I would suggest running stick. It is quite difficult to get a poor stick weld.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I'm looking at this in person. There is no overlap. There's nothing you could grab a pick with. Unless you are suggesting that that slag is hanging out *in* the overlap. The black visible in the photo is a black glassy material, it is not a shadow. And to what standard are you judging this anyway? This is not a pressure vessel, or a nuclear plant.

It is quite difficult to get a poor stick weld.

Oh, you haven't seen my stick weld! :Wow1:

Michaels, that's one idea. But I didn't want anything sticking out back there like that. Though, I guess one idea could be that I could make a plate out of 3/8" or something, and that would fill in the gap under the finisher and also hold the top of the spindle.

 

[Crookthumb]

How does the owner see out of the back? Spotter or camera?

 

[Alaska Mike]

For all those concerned, I deleted a few of the recent posts here that were what I consider abusive and non-productive. If you can't respect each other, please respect the wishes of our host.

I believe the observations about the quality of the welds (right, wrong, or indifferent) were made in an honest effort to improve the final product. Rob has noted them, decided that he disagreed, and that should be good enough. I've seen far worse examples last far longer (by my own hand).
Let's move on...

 

[AlexJet]

How does the owner see out of the back? Spotter or camera?

Side mirrors. I have even more in my rear window view and it's fine.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I believe the observations about the quality of the welds (right, wrong, or indifferent) were made in an honest effort to improve the final product. Rob has noted them, decided that he disagreed, and that should be good enough. I've seen far worse examples last far longer (by my own hand).
Let's move on...

I have no problem with the criticism from Red90, as he claims to be a welding inspector, and I'm always interested in improving my skills. But, the explanation would have to go much further than just saying the defect exists. As I said, there is no overlap when inspected in person. So unless he is suggesting the slag is covering up an overlap, there is no other merit. I invite his further comment.

I think some (not suggesting Red90) may be confused by the fact that the plate does not have fillet all the way to the top edge. I will state again, I only put a 1/8" fillet there, because that's a 1/4" plate on top of 1/8" tube. It would be pointless to put a 1/4" fillet on top of 1/8" wall tube. Even with only a 1/8" fillet, the tube wall will still be weaker than the weld.

 

[Andrew Walcker]

For all those concerned, I deleted a few of the recent posts here that were what I consider abusive and non-productive. If you can't respect each other, please respect the wishes of our host.

Well said Mike:gunt:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Almost got one of the corners finished. I matched the lines of the plastic finisher, but I REALLY don't know if I'll be using it. I have to figure out what I'm doing with that swing away. I actually don't know if I can fit 2 jerry cans beside the tire, and still leave room on the door for a ladder (and the license plate). If not, then that changes things. I might leave the tire on the door, and just make a small swingaway for the gas cans.

You can see the line where I intend to taper up the ends. I might extend it's start point a little further.

 

[Alaska Mike]

How many mounting points does that bumper have to the frame? Are the 4 that are in-line the only significant frame mounting points, or will there be others? The reason I ask is that may be the major limiting factor for what you can mount on a swingaway. As for the license plate, relocate it to the center of the spare. Instead of a ladder, you could install a couple fold-out "steps" running up your swing arm to access anything on the roof. You know, the small toe-holds that are about the size of a cell phone.

Just a thought.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I realized this morning that there's no way the license plate can stay where it is. Not unless I were to place the jerry cans behind the tire, which I don't want to do for obvious reasons. Even using the full width of the door, I think I can only get 2 cans on. So, now to decide, both cans together, to the left of the door? Or on either side of the tire? I really like the look of this from ShrockWorks (but probably without the luggage rack...)

But, it'd also be nice to keep the asymetrical rear design of the Disco. Plus, I think the plate would look better mounted on the back of a twin jerry-can holder instead of the middle of the tire.

The bumper is mounted to the frame horns so far. I will be adding a bottom plate to tie it into the hitch mounting points on the crossmember. Should be plenty strong that way. The rear hitch is rated for what... 500lbs tongue weight (off the top of my head). It may also have mounts back to the frame at the front end of the side wings, similar to what Michaels did.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Oh, and the other thing to figure out shortly... I already have 2 of these lights:

http://www.princessauto.com/truck-t...lights/8024853-double-halogen-bulb-work-light

They were originally going to be mounted on an extendible pole and be worklights. I'd have a switch inside the truck. The idea with the pole is that they are below the roofline normally, and actually tucked low just above the tire. The pole could be extended up above the roofline so that they could swivel to light either side of the truck if needed during a recovery, for camp setup, or as worklights for bike servicing during an Enduro.

That's one option. Then, do I also put reverse lights in the bumper? I don't like that because they're prone to damage, but I could weld a reinforcing ring around them.

Or, don't do all that, use those mounted on the swing away, they'll be reverse and/or rear-only work lamps...

 

[Antichrist]

there is no overlap

I prefer the more common term coldlap, as it more accurately describes the condition when it occurs, which is common with MIG, not so much with TIG.

 

[AlexJet]

Rob, another option (as you mentioned) is build it the same way as my rear bumper does - Tire on one side and double gas can holder with licence plate on another side.