Canadian Disco 2 Build

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I havent done DII yet but I have done a number of the D1's and they are pretty much the same trans. You may want to try unstacking it replacing the clutches and restacking it. Its not near the voodoo people think it is once you have been through it. My D1 trans now has 70k on my personal rebuild and it has gone through alot of torture pounding through deep snow and mud and sand and hauling heavy trailers that whole time.

The guy who's truck I borrowed said the same thing. Just get a clean work surface, and start pulling it appart, putting them on the table in order, then put it back together again.

Where did you source the parts, and how much? I can get a used trans for $950.

If your long term plan includes "countless" water crossings you may want to add a raised breather to the bell housing and seal it up the best you can. The wiper style seal on the front of the pump acts as a mini pump to continuosly pump the fluid back into the trans. That same pumping motion of the seal will pump any water in the bellhousing right past the seal and into the trans.

Very interesting. That's probably what happened then. When I was stuck, it was sitting in the water for maybe 5 minutes.

I was told it's a ***** of a job doing the trans R&R. 22 hours. What's involved?

Remove driveshafts, TC, subframes, exhaust, electrical connections, and drop it? Or even more?
 

muskyman

Explorer
I have a friend that owns a trans shop and he gets me complete rebuild sets for about $180

and yes you unstack everything out onto the bench in order, clean all the parts piece by piece and then reassemble it into a cleaned case in the oposite order.

A complete R&R takes me about 10 hours start to finnish. If a trans guy told you 22 hours I would run the other direction right then and there. A good trans guy with all the right tools should be able to do it as fast as me any day of the week.

The only tough part or not even so much tough but complicated part is making sure that the torque convertor is properly seated in the pump when the trans is joined to the engine. If it is not then the drive spurs in the pump of the trans will be sheared off at start up and the whole job will need to be done over again.

I have outlined that procedure in great detail on discoweb a number of times so a quick search will give you plenty of detail on how to do that correctly without risking damaging the pump.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
LOLZ

Noone knows how an auto tranny works. It is a case filled with mythical bits of metal and secret passage ways. Automatic Transmissions are the mechanical equivelant of women. They require a bit more maintance, anyone who says they understand them is lying, and they are much harder to put back together than they are to take apart.

I have a friend that owns a trans shop and he gets me complete rebuild sets for about $180

So, can you hook a brotha up? ;)
 

muskyman

Explorer
Last I looked in the rover world I think BP had the best price.

The kit I have used from my source isnt even labled for a rover it is labled for a BMW.

I would think there are plenty of 03/04 used units near by you that you could haggle for and get a real fair price?

The last used one I got was only $300 and it was prefect fresh and clean inside.
 

94Discovery

Adventurer
Rob
why don't you convert it to a manual ?
and till the engine dies you will consider a diesel ,will cost you less and you can continue on driving it this summer .
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
I like that idea. You might get a few more years out of the engine yet. Is the manual used with the diesel compatible with the V8?
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
The ZF 4HP24 is used in the BMW 750 and 850. The 4HP22 from the 99-02 D2 is used in just about everything else BMW makes, as well as Volvo 740 and 940, and the Porsche 993 3.6L. Some more excellent info from the Bimmer boys:

http://www.e38.org/transfund1.pdf
http://www.e38.org/electran1.pdf
http://www.e38.org/e32/zftroubleshooting/


And if you want to see inside Pandoras Box:

http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/zf4hp24.pdf

Not positive this is a 4HP24 but it might be:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/490896


Don't see any listing for rebuild kits at British Pacific?
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I like that idea. You might get a few more years out of the engine yet. Is the manual used with the diesel compatible with the V8?

You know... I did think of that, but I assumed the manual trans never went behind the V8, so it couldn't be done. If it IS possible... well then... that changes everything.

I wouldn't think that would be too bad, if it's all factory parts. Transmission, clutch pedal, clutch lines, center console, reflash the ECU.

Well ****, it looks like they did!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2001-LAND-ROV...iewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3effa95326

Must be pretty rare.
 
Rob, I think you should pull the carpets out ASAP. The sound insulation under the carpets gets wet and NEVER dries out. I would bet it will take a while to dry out, maybe just pull it up and let it air out.

And it could cause your floor to rust out after the paint is destroyed through constant moisture contact. Lesson learned from 30-year-old cars prone to rust damage. This is one reason why I chose not to have carpet nor vinyl floors in my '77 Scout II. Get it out now, if you haven't already.

Stephanie
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I actually just had the carpets out and repainted the floor and put the carpets back. No carpets is not an option on this truck.
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Does anyone make a vinyl/rubber floor for D2s? I'm probably going to do that when I get around to it. I'm not keen on bare painted floors either (tranmission of NVH, generally crappy look, etc.)

If I have to weld in some patch panels every 30 years then so be it.
 

michaelgroves

Explorer
If your long term plan includes "countless" water crossings you may want to add a raised breather to the bell housing and seal it up the best you can.

I quite like the idea of connecting up all the truck's breather pipes into one, and then having a button on the dash to pump, say, 200mbar of air into all the boxes and axles when you're doing water crossings. Like the Unimog does, when you lock the diffs. It might cause some seals to weep fluid while under pressure, but better a bit of fluid gets out than a bit of water gets in. Press the button again when you're out of the muck, and it switches the valve so the breathers are open to the atmosphere again. It assumes some kind of on-board air (and a 200mbar regulator/valve), of course, but that's not such a bad idea anyway.

Any reason this wouldn't work in the auto trans?

I know, it's closing the stable door....

Rob, if you're stuck getting anything from the UK, let me know, I can try to help.
 

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