Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, it now appears like I will have the fun of a "3 Amigos" situation, only it now appears to be 4 Amigos.

In the past, I have had some intermittend Amigos. Usually 3, but not the usual 3. I would often get the TC, ABS, but not the HDC. I would get the (!) also, making 3, but as I said, not the usual 3. These would always seem to clear themselves. Just stop the truck, restart it, usually the ABS light would remain on, but then would go out soon as I rolled a short distance.

But now... I had those 3 appear, and then a short time later, the HDC came on, and they are not going off. I have seen some things suggesting that 03-04's get 4 Amigos instead of just 3.

Guess I need to get an ABS Amigo to figure out what the deal is. I have a sneaking suspicion it will be the SVS fault. Luckily, the fix seems to be pretty well documented and not a huge deal.

http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html

The front brakes are fairly new, the rear brakes are older but were OK when I checked last year and I have parts waiting to go on. Just the way it happened, I doubt that's it. It happened just rolling down the road, not during brake use.

 

[bobtail4x4]

Its usually a wheel bearing with a bit of play.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I actually hope it's the SVS in the SLABS! At least I can fix that for free.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Ok, just some updates. The bumper and skidplate is on, now just finishing up the swing-away. The gate will have reverse lights, and a 7 pin trailer socket in the middle. The license plate will have to move too. Either behind the gas cans, or behind the tire. Not sure which yet. The tube sticking out through the middle of the tire is a mount to which I can attach an accessory mounting bracket, like a shovel, or whatever. Another tube will fit over this and use a lynch pin to attach. Also you can see where I added the sockets for the HiLift jack. You can see how much better the departure angle is now, without the trailer hitch, I wonder if it's better than a D1?

Here I did change the angle on the spare tire mount, got it closer to the body and tipped it in.

And here are my mudflap mounts. Two lynch pins, and the flaps come off. The brackets are stainless steel.

 

[4307]

Nice build man! :costumed-smiley-007

 

[telwyn]

Rob, I'm impressed. Have enjoyed following your build. Finished product looks great.

 

[AlexJet]

Rob, Looks very nice. Can't wait to see it in person.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, I had somebody who had an ABS Amigo scan my system and clear the codes. I drove home about 45 minutes, and the 4 Amigos didn't come back, so I figured I was in the clear for a while. Nope. They were back soon as I started the truck this morning.

Out of interest, the codes showing on the Amigo are:

1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
022:ECU Gnd or Reference Gnd bad
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults

Not quite sure what to do with that yet.

Clean the LF wheel speed sensor and grounds? I'm not sure why they're listed together as they seem somewhat unrelated?

Anyway, now I need to get some kind of system to clear the codes after I fix the problem. But which one?

ABS Amigo ($200)
Hawkeye ($600) (Possibly closer to $450 from the UK)
Faultmate ($800)

I need to sort out the cost/benefit ratio of them to determine what to do. I already have a Scanguage II for engine fault codes. I don't have air suspension, so that's not an issue. The Hawkeye seems to give a lot more functionality, being able to work with the BCU and also (I think) fire some actuators, do a bleed on the ABS actuator, etc. The Faultmate, I'm not even sure how much it can do.

I'm thinking towards the future, which is why the ABS Amigo is lacking a bit. I'm already thinking I shouldn't have gotten the Scangauge for $170, as the Hawkeye might have been better.

Thinking to the future in terms of the possibility of a TDI swap, and/or other Land Rovers in the future as a daily driver. Maybe an LR3, LR2, or RRS.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Damn, the Faultmate sure seems to be the be-all end-all. It is basically a personal Rovacom. It can read all faults, reads all data in ECU, can change any settings that are changeable. ie: You could probably change the idle speed if you wanted for some reason, recalibrate the speedo, etc. Allows you to reprogram ECUs so you can use one from another vehicle, or a new "bare" ECU. Just endless. I'm curious if it gives full control over engine management. Air/Fuel and Spark Tables, etc.

For $800, it's not bad. Not that I really have $800 lying around....

If I wanted a modern Rover in the future, sure would be nice.

Edit: nope, doesn't seem to give full control over engine management, but it full visibility.

 

[muskyman]

Well, I had somebody who had an ABS Amigo scan my system and clear the codes. I drove home about 45 minutes, and the 4 Amigos didn't come back, so I figured I was in the clear for a while. Nope. They were back soon as I started the truck this morning.

Out of interest, the codes showing on the Amigo are:



Not quite sure what to do with that yet.

Clean the LF wheel speed sensor and grounds? I'm not sure why they're listed together as they seem somewhat unrelated?

Anyway, now I need to get some kind of system to clear the codes after I fix the problem. But which one?

ABS Amigo ($200)
Hawkeye ($600) (Possibly closer to $450 from the UK)
Faultmate ($800)

I need to sort out the cost/benefit ratio of them to determine what to do. I already have a Scanguage II for engine fault codes. I don't have air suspension, so that's not an issue. The Hawkeye seems to give a lot more functionality, being able to work with the BCU and also (I think) fire some actuators, do a bleed on the ABS actuator, etc. The Faultmate, I'm not even sure how much it can do.

I'm thinking towards the future, which is why the ABS Amigo is lacking a bit. I'm already thinking I shouldn't have gotten the Scangauge for $170, as the Hawkeye might have been better.

Thinking to the future in terms of the possibility of a TDI swap, and/or other Land Rovers in the future as a daily driver. Maybe an LR3, LR2, or RRS.

I would start by checking the grounds in the front drivers side of the engine compartment next to the radiator.

This is a very common issue that causes problems and often corrected faults that showed elsewhere in the system.

That one fix sorted out most the amigo issues with lots of trucks(until the modulator went bad) LOL

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Behind the left headlight? I did look at them already, didn't look too corroded, but I'll clean them up. Just too bad there's no way to reset the the system again without a device.

 

[muskyman]

Behind the left headlight? I did look at them already, didn't look too corroded, but I'll clean them up. Just too bad there's no way to reset the the system again without a device.

yes on the back side of the front bulkhead behind the drivers side headlamp.

I have seen them look perfect and then just a little clean up made the difference. On my wifes DII they looked like brand new yet that was the ground issue that cause the first round of amigo faults on her truck.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, still trying to decide which scan tool to get. So far, the Hawkeye shipped direct from the UK for just over $400 is in the lead. I just wish I could find out EXACTLY what it can and can't do in terms of programming and changing settings on the vehicle. I've heard some were disappointed, but I'm not sure exactly what they were expecting.

The Faultmate is very complete, but at $800, it's a lot more money. And it can't get into the engine mapping on a V8, though it has some ability on the TD5. But more importantly, the unlock codes for an L322 or LR3 are over $1000. If I were to ever buy one of those vehicles, it seems like the AutoEnginuity system will work on those for just $500. Just too bad that system doesn't have full capability on the D2, as far as I can tell it only does basic OBDII stuff on D2.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Might as well post about my transmission woes here, instead of the diesel engine thread. Try to keep that one on topic.

So last year, I got some water in my transmission. I'm not sure how, as I didn't actually submerge the vent, and the water didn't get into the axles or TC. Whatever the cause, it's my fault. I flushed it out as best as I could, by doing 4-5 oil changes, running in between, getting it hot, full stall on the torque converter, shifting the gears, etc. I put a 5 gallon pail through it total. At the end, it looked good coming out.

I bought a filter and gasket kit, and was going to change that, but before I got to it, last weekend I lost all drive. No crashy-bangy noises, just some buzzing from the solenoids, and no motive power at all in any gear or even reverse.

I went to pick up the truck last night, and was actually able to drive right onto the trailer. Felt perfectly normal, other than some buzzing noise. I decided maybe the tranny wasn't toast, so I dropped it off at a transmission specialist to have them try to power flush it.

I called them to arrange it, and they are saying that they don't do power flushes anymore, as it can ruin the transmission. Said most shops have gotten rid of their flushers. I dunno...

Not sure if I should try to drive it home, or trailer it home, drop the pan, see if there's any shiney bits, change the filter, try to flush it again, or what. Or is it hopeless. Most transmission shops I have talked said once water gets in, it's all over.

Oh, and this might be relevant. No CEL, but an Autologic shows some codes in trans.

Edit, had to reverse track these to get the codes. I think they're P0741, P0705, and P1612. The M+S lights are not flashing, nor is the CEL.

 

[muskyman]

the clutches are junk once the box has been filled with water. No amount of changes or flushes will keep it from the complete loss of drive it will suffer.

I havent done DII yet but I have done a number of the D1's and they are pretty much the same trans. You may want to try unstacking it replacing the clutches and restacking it. Its not near the voodoo people think it is once you have been through it. My D1 trans now has 70k on my personal rebuild and it has gone through alot of torture pounding through deep snow and mud and sand and hauling heavy trailers that whole time.

Bolting in a rebuilt or a used one from a crashed truck is really not a horrible job and if it has a known number of miles on the used one a very affordable option in alot of cases.

If your long term plan includes "countless" water crossings you may want to add a raised breather to the bell housing and seal it up the best you can. The wiper style seal on the front of the pump acts as a mini pump to continuosly pump the fluid back into the trans. That same pumping motion of the seal will pump any water in the bellhousing right past the seal and into the trans.