Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

Apparently I can't ship in a whole vehicle. And I can't ship in the front half and back half of the same vehicle. They assume you are going to weld them back together (dumb). You can bring in the front half of one, and the back half of another.... but at the end of the day, I think it's probably not worth it. Especially when axles, etc, are available over here.

My biggest headache right now that I can think of, is the fuel lines. They're too long to ship as is. Unless maybe they could be rolled up, I understand they are plastic on the D2 TD5?

 

[bobtail4x4]

They are plastic on all discos.

 

[michaelgroves]

My biggest headache right now that I can think of, is the fuel lines. They're too long to ship as is. Unless maybe they could be rolled up, I understand they are plastic on the D2 TD5?

I am sure they must roll up! Or come in sections, I suppose. Else how would dealers get them delivered, keep them stored etc.?

 

[bobtail4x4]

They come in bags about 18 inch square,

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Oh yeah? That's awesome. Worst case, could just buy them new from the dealer.

 

[michaelgroves]

If you imported a front end from the UK, you would presumably include a good few extra/spare parts too, new or used, as they are so cheap and plentiful here. I can see you now, trawling through the Paddocks website....

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Equicar came back, no front clips.

 

[michaelgroves]

This looks promising - crashed 2004 TD5 manual with 120K on the clock:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Di...iewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item35a970c22a

I'm sure you could negotiate on price. And get them to slice it in half, if you wanted. Or do the disabling thing for CA import.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Nice. That's just about perfect. And it has the steel wheels I'd like too! I really need to look into importing a whole vehicle. I've heard from somebody that if you knotch the frame, they will accept that it is just for parts. That would get me a bunch of parts I could part out to gain some money back. Axles, LT230, 2004 shift linkage, front bumper, headlights, etc.

Only the miles are a little high. 120,000, and that's miles, not KM right? How long are the TD5's good for?

And I wonder what happened to that thing? Weird to have damage that high up. Like it got hit by an airplane or something.

There's a bit of complexity due to these things being RHD as well. Mostly just the wiring harness, some of it is flipped, some of it is not.

How did you find it? I had looked for something like this previously on Ebay, but didn't find this one. Is it new, or did you search somewhere else?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I'm moving ahead with the R380 swap, and plan to buy a brand new gearbox from Ashcroft in the UK, along with a new clutch kit and cover. I'm working with him to see if I can consolidate shipment of the flywheel with the transmission due to size and bulk. My parts list looks like this:

-Brand new R380 V8 Spec. L-suffix or better, ROW spec with the external oil pump, with bellhousing
-V8 Clutch Kit - new
-V8 Clutch Fork - new
-R380 Mocal Oil cooler kit - new
-V8 Bosch Flywheel - new or reconditioned - PSD103340
-V8 Bosch Manual Crank Position Sensor - new - ERR7352 (2) 1 extra to have spare
-Flywheel bolts and dowels - new
-Reverse lamp switch - new
-Clutch cover bolts and dowels - new
-Release bearing - new
-Release bearing sleeve - new or used?
-Ball spigot - new or used?
-Pilot/Spigot bearing - new
-Slave Cylinder - new
-Master Cylinder - new
-Clutch hydraulic line - new
-Clutch/Brake Fluid Reservoir and feed hose - used - (is this the same part as the auto?)
-Breather pipe - used- banjo fitting and bolt without line, will run new line to snorkel
-Gear lever housing rubber boot/gaiter - used
-Upper gear lever - used
-Leather shift boot and knob - used
-Manual transmission pedal box - used - complete with clutch switch and connector pigtails - to harvest clutch and brake pedals

I'm also working on the details of the wiring changes. It's not too bad actually. Just a couple wires to splice or run to the BCU, SLABS and Cruise Control. Basically, the feed from the brake switch to the CC ECU must also pass through the clutch pedal switch. The reverse switch feed from the auto must be changed to the manual at Connector 0681. And then of course, the BCU, ECU, SLABS and CC must be reflashed to be configured for the Manual Transmission. I will do this either with a Testbook, or may purchase a Faultmate MSV-2 which will be very useful going forward anyway.

While I've got it all apart, I am thinking of pro-actively changing the rear main seal. I'm just not sure if this can be done without the special tools?

Also, not that long ago I purchased a new thermostat with plans to flush the coolant and change the thermo pro-actively. I may also do all the engine hoses as well. Then while I have the driveshafts out, I'll rebuilt the rear U-joint and replace the Rotoflex. Also thinking that while I'm reflashing the ECU, I may turn off the Secondary Air Injection so I can remove the system, simplify underhood a bit, and make it easier to change the plug wires. And I'll probably do an accessory belt, tensioner and idler kit.

I'm sure after all that's done the liners will drop but...

 

[Root Moose]

Cool beans.

Too bad the transmission didn't break in the fall. Then you'd have all winter to futz with this instead of wasting your summer with it.

So the electrical stuff, is this what Ashcroft is telling you about this? They've done this before?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I too wish it was in the fall. Oh well. I'm hoping it's done by end of June, but who knows. I'll get out on the trails on my motorcycle, and can go family camping in the minivan. Not like we were going to go to some far off place for camping this summer with a 8 month old baby anyway.

No, the electrical stuff I've determined myself by pouring over the details in the Rave CD. Basically, a giant factory shop manual PDF library from Land Rover. It's amazing. I've never seen such in-depth documentation in my life. Not just "unbolt this, installation is the reverse of removal", but it's got all the wiring diagrams, very completely, connector locations and pinouts, as well as very descriptive text on the operation of every system.

I was using it to map out what would need to be done electrically for the TD5 engine (not too bad, either). But I figure the TD5 is pretty much as complicated and sensor-reliant as the V8 anyway. Actually, I was most put-off by discussion on the fuel quality requirements. Decided that I'd be better off with the 300tdi, but then, looking at the Rave, I discovered that I'd end up losing much of the Traction Control functionality, which I wouldn't want to do without having selectible lockers first... and might lose the A/C system... bah.

 

[Root Moose]

What about the fuel reqs?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Just seemed really sensitive. I dunno the reality, maybe our friends in the UK could comment. Just stuff about, any water will destroy the injectors. Sensitive to dirt, etc. Not to mention the cost of the injectors. It's got a crank position sensor, MAF, electronic throttle pedal, etc....

Also, couldn't find anybody to bring in a front clip, which is the best way. I'd need all the ECU's, because if the TD5 ECU is from an Alarm equiped truck, it needs to be connected to an alarm configured BCU. You can reprogram the ECU to go UP to an alarmed configuration, but you can never reprogram it to go down to non-alarm configured. If the engine I got was from an alarm equiped truck, I'd need the matching BCU and then also the Alarm ECU. If you try to run a alarm-ECU with a non-alarm-BCU, the engine won't run. And if it all came from an alarmed truck, I'd need to retrofit in the volumetric sensors... It's not an insurmountable situation, but it is an extra layer of complexity.

At the end of the day, I just don't have enough money to do it the way I want. I'd end up having to use all junk-yard parts of questionable reliability. Maybe another time, when I can do it properly.

 

[Root Moose]

With any luck it is the same kind of doom and gloom prose you see in any manual.