chris snell
Adventurer
That's correct. My WSM specifies ATF but my truck originally had the LT77. I swapped it out some years back for an R380.
Canadian Disco 2 Build
- Thread starter R_Lefebvre
- Start date
That's correct. My WSM specifies ATF but my truck originally had the LT77. I swapped it out some years back for an R380.
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Rover specs Texaco MTF94, but I like the Redline MTL better. I've been using it 6 or 7 years in mine.
timmy!!!!!!!
Explorer
My r380 doesn't have a cooler.
Viggen
Just here...
Why would you need to? Im only familiar with a 95 D1 so Im not too sure what the D2's do but, the LS motor is self contained and will run the motor and only the motor. What does a motor ECU have to do with a computer that controls things like windows and the like? Again, Im not too familiar with the later model trucks.
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
That's surprising. Did you buy it new? Or is it possible it was removed by a previous owner, like I did on my Disco?
timmy!!!!!!!
Explorer
I didn't buy the disco new but I will see if there were provisions for a cooler when I go home. I have owned the truck since 60k miles and new the owner of the truck at 30k miles and it had not changed at all from him to me though.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Well, the provisions you are looking for could be a block-off plate. I'm not sure what it looks like, but that's what the factory used. It may be a plate with a little loop of metal or just a metal block with machined passageways?
Or, if you have the thermostat with a loop of hose, then you know what's happened for sure.
The ECU and BCU talk to eachother on start up to swap security codes. I'm not sure what would work or not on the BCU if the ECU was missing. I guess you could leave the ECU connected just to get around that, even if it's not doing anything else. But, for sure your Traction Control system would be inoperative. It relies on info coming from the ECU for it's operation, and will not work if that is missing. Also IIRC, the tach is driven from the ECU, so you'd lose that too. Also the aircon system probably would have trouble. Might not be insurmountable, but I haven't looked into it that much.
Basically, the truck has a number of ECU's all networked together. The ECU and BCU are kingpins to the system and without them, troubles.
Or, if you have the thermostat with a loop of hose, then you know what's happened for sure.
The ECU and BCU talk to eachother on start up to swap security codes. I'm not sure what would work or not on the BCU if the ECU was missing. I guess you could leave the ECU connected just to get around that, even if it's not doing anything else. But, for sure your Traction Control system would be inoperative. It relies on info coming from the ECU for it's operation, and will not work if that is missing. Also IIRC, the tach is driven from the ECU, so you'd lose that too. Also the aircon system probably would have trouble. Might not be insurmountable, but I haven't looked into it that much.
Basically, the truck has a number of ECU's all networked together. The ECU and BCU are kingpins to the system and without them, troubles.
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
I can't really think of any reason they'd remove it if they didn't do any modifications to the truck. I only removed mine because it was in the way of my winch. And for a long time I had it just with the hoses looped back and connected to each other with the short sections of rubber hose that crossed from the engine/gearbox to the frame.
Viggen
Just here...
Ahhh, the fabled security system. Mine doesnt work so its no big deal. Traction control again, is really no big deal and comes in the form of a little black toggle labeled ARB. I tend to not worry about the functionality of my ABS and traction control systems. In regular driving situations, I have never had either system trigger itself. As for the tach, a V8 ignition signal is a V8 ignition signal and can be taken from the GM motor (remember, you have a GM motor too) and made to work with your tach. The A/C system just needs a trigger from the switch to the compressor clutch. Thats not that complicated either.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I certainly didn't want to disable the TC until I had locking diffs, which I do not yet. But as you say, once you have an ARB, it's not as much of a bother. ABS... I would like to retain, I used it pretty much daily in the winter, but I believe that will function even with a botched up ECU. No promises on that as I haven't tried it, but that's what Rave says anyway.
The A/C system is not as simple as you think. The AC computer sends a compressor request to the ECU. The ECU determines whether or not to turn the compressor on based on some factors in the engine. That's not going to work if you've swapped engines. Might be able to rewire the compressor clutch to work directly off the A/C computer, but who knows if that would work?
A V8 tach signal is not a V8 tach signal. The D2 doesn't have a distributor, and it has 4 coils. The tach is actually driven by a signal from the ECU, not the coil, at 2 pulses per revolution. So, you lose tach. You also lose engine temperature on the gauge pack and... it goes on and on.
An engine swap on this vehicle is not to be taken lightly.
The A/C system is not as simple as you think. The AC computer sends a compressor request to the ECU. The ECU determines whether or not to turn the compressor on based on some factors in the engine. That's not going to work if you've swapped engines. Might be able to rewire the compressor clutch to work directly off the A/C computer, but who knows if that would work?
A V8 tach signal is not a V8 tach signal. The D2 doesn't have a distributor, and it has 4 coils. The tach is actually driven by a signal from the ECU, not the coil, at 2 pulses per revolution. So, you lose tach. You also lose engine temperature on the gauge pack and... it goes on and on.
An engine swap on this vehicle is not to be taken lightly.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I picked up all the parts from Lucky 8 last night and made it accross the border with no problems. I'll be starting this project next week.
I'm curious if anybody knows... would this whole job be easier if I just hoist out the entire powertrain and then reinstall it, or just do it all from underneath with the engine in place? I have access to a typical cheap Harbor Fright engine hoist, but I do not have a lot of room in my shop in front of the truck. I'd have to hoist the engine out while rolling the truck back out of the shop. Then winch the truck back into the shop while dropping the powertrain back in. It doesn't sound very appealing.
I'd also really like any info anybody has on the OEM flywheel bolts. It's one part that we could not find in the parts cat. Are they anything special, close fit ground shoulder bolts, 12 points, grade, etc.? Or are they just a standard bolt? I'd hate to buy standard bolts and then have the mounting fail in operation.
Looks like I'll also end up fabricating the upper shift lever as it's one part I didn't buy yet. Shouldn't be too big of a deal, and I should be able to achieve the ideal shifter placement for me.
I'm curious if anybody knows... would this whole job be easier if I just hoist out the entire powertrain and then reinstall it, or just do it all from underneath with the engine in place? I have access to a typical cheap Harbor Fright engine hoist, but I do not have a lot of room in my shop in front of the truck. I'd have to hoist the engine out while rolling the truck back out of the shop. Then winch the truck back into the shop while dropping the powertrain back in. It doesn't sound very appealing.
I'd also really like any info anybody has on the OEM flywheel bolts. It's one part that we could not find in the parts cat. Are they anything special, close fit ground shoulder bolts, 12 points, grade, etc.? Or are they just a standard bolt? I'd hate to buy standard bolts and then have the mounting fail in operation.
Looks like I'll also end up fabricating the upper shift lever as it's one part I didn't buy yet. Shouldn't be too big of a deal, and I should be able to achieve the ideal shifter placement for me.
94Discovery
Adventurer
I picked up all the parts from Lucky 8 last night and made it accross the border with no problems. I'll be starting this project next week.
I'm curious if anybody knows... would this whole job be easier if I just hoist out the entire powertrain and then reinstall it, or just do it all from underneath with the engine in place? I have access to a typical cheap Harbor Fright engine hoist, but I do not have a lot of room in my shop in front of the truck. I'd have to hoist the engine out while rolling the truck back out of the shop. Then winch the truck back into the shop while dropping the powertrain back in. It doesn't sound very appealing.
I'd also really like any info anybody has on the OEM flywheel bolts. It's one part that we could not find in the parts cat. Are they anything special, close fit ground shoulder bolts, 12 points, grade, etc.? Or are they just a standard bolt? I'd hate to buy standard bolts and then have the mounting fail in operation.
Looks like I'll also end up fabricating the upper shift lever as it's one part I didn't buy yet. Shouldn't be too big of a deal, and I should be able to achieve the ideal shifter placement for me.
How much did yo pay for all the parts ?
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
SH607081LI'd also really like any info anybody has on the OEM flywheel bolts. It's one part that we could not find in the parts cat. Are they anything special, close fit ground shoulder bolts, 12 points, grade, etc.? Or are they just a standard bolt? I'd hate to buy standard bolts and then have the mounting fail in operation.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-SH607081L
7/16 x1 UNC
I would expect grade 8. If no one else replies, I can dig one out later today to make sure on the head size.
At least that's the part number for the D1, but I don't see why the DII crank would be tapped differently. But at least you know you can have an off-the-shelf bolt to check the thread with soon as you get your old flywheel off.
To do it from under that car, you have to be able to get the car pretty high in the air to get the gearbox under it on a transmission jack.
Also, if you have the shop manual, build one of the R380 gearbox support jack adapters they provide plan for. They work really well.
For lining up the gearbox to the flywheel housing, I found having four 3/8x5" bolts with the heads cut off and screwed in help a lot.