Canadian Disco 2 Build

[Root Moose]

Get a set of these:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223922721P?prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G15

I have a Craftsman set that I picked up years ago. Comes in handy when you don't want to get too destructive with what you are trying to remove.

Not sure if it'd work for what your describing but there's the idea anyway. Too late but maybe for the next time.

 

[AxeAngel]

I couldn't snap the heads off, they just rounded. I don't have an 8mm impact socket, just a chrome one, so no chance of torqueing them off. Anyway, it's done now. Drilled out all 8. Fark.

At least I was mentally prepared for that thing to be like that. But one can always hope.

I can just cut off all the exhaust bolts except the top ones. Good a good look at the cast iron header. What a joke. The primaries are tiny!

What do you mean ZF and not LT230?

I'm putting an R380 L-suffix box in with the original LT230.

Anybody want a ZF24 core for a rebuild? Should be in great shape, the steels should be good, just needs new clutches! Maybe I'll make a cocktail table out of it.

That sucks that you have to cut off the exhaust bolts. Tight quarters in there. Replace those bolts with the appropriate heat index bolts and loctite them. They will come out from engine vibration. Replace gaskets as well.

-Sam

 

[R_Lefebvre]

No, I didn't cut them yet.

One thing I'd like to know, once I get the new flywheel and the matching crank position sensor installed, any reason not to fire the engine up with no trans attached, just to make sure that that system is working right? It would suck to make a stupid mistake with that, and then have to take the trans back off.

Chris: I wonder if I can even find those things anymore at Sears in Canada? Canadian Tire has something similar, but I haven't been impressed with their broken screw extractors, so I dunno.

 

[Root Moose]

Chris: I wonder if I can even find those things anymore at Sears in Canada? Canadian Tire has something similar, but I haven't been impressed with their broken screw extractors, so I dunno.

For certain - my experience is that even the mickey mouse Sears(eseses) with a small tool crib have these somewhere.

I tried to find the exact part no. for the Craftsman set on the Sears.ca site but can't find it. I know it was there a few months ago and every time I go looking for anything on the sears web site it is an ordeal so I wouldn't presume they don't have them or whatever.

The CTC Mastercraft stuff should be fine... the way these things are constructed it would be hard to make one that doesn't work.

EDIT: In the shop as I type this... kit or individual pieces doesn't seem to have a part number on it.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, the two bolts on front of the muffler snapped right off with a wrench. The rear 3 rounded off instantly with the impact gun. Luckily... since I cut the rear section off when I built my bumper, I was able to snake the rest of the exhaust out with the muffler still attached. I'll deal with that later...

O2's out. Gee, could they have made the connectors any harder to get to?

Damn I hate working on rusty cars.

Do those tools actually work? I never bothered with them, because I don't see why, if a nicely fitting socket won't work, why would those things be any better?

I also lifted the truck up a bit, some lumber under the tires.

 

[Root Moose]

Well, the two bolts on front of the muffler snapped right off with a wrench. The rear 3 rounded off instantly with the impact gun. Luckily... since I cut the rear section off when I built my bumper, I was able to snake the rest of the exhaust out with the muffler still attached. I'll deal with that later...

O2's out. Gee, could they have made the connectors any harder to get to?

Damn I hate working on rusty cars.

Do those tools actually work? I never bothered with them, because I don't see why, if a nicely fitting socket won't work, why would those things be any better?

I also lifted the truck up a bit, some lumber under the tires.

They work a lot of the time where you don't want to use oxy-ace to cut the b!tches out. It's hard to see in the photos but they have fluted cutting teeth inside them that work opposite to the direction of the force applied when applying removal torque. They are great for removing locking lug nuts when you've lost the key or inherited a vehicle without the key. Just another one of the handy man's secret weapons.

Where possible, try using a breaker bar on an L-handle instead of impact/air tools. Depending on the situation one will work while the other won't. I have a four foot, thin wall piece of tubing I use on my L handle. If the bar bends with my 200+ lbs on it then I need to get the destructive methods out.

I'm back to my S2000 the rest of the day. It's never been winter driven but I've messed up a bolt already. Old is old.

HTH

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Real Men Of Genious....

Thank you Mr. Land Rover Engineer. Thank you for replacing the large clip with an integral pull tab holding the hi/lo range cable into the shifter bracket with a simple C clip. It can only be see with a mirror and difficult to reach, and trying to pry the clip off with a screw driver blindly is so much fun! And it's rusted on stuck.

We solute you Mr. Land Rover Engineer!

Bastard. There's no way to get the damn clip off, which is shown as a clip with a big pull tab in the shop manual. This smells just like a Ford Material Cost Reduction action. Somebody got his performance bonus by replacing the $0.038 clip with a $0.012 clip.

I just unbolted the shifter from the body and let it drop with the TC.

I got the front exhaust pipe off. That was surprisingly easy. They just came right off. In fact, they seemed a little TOO loose...

I have to drill our the pop rivets holding the top tunnel plate in because I'll need to mod it for the manual shifter. I'm thinking of putting rivnuts in the body panels, and then screwing the plate back down from the top, so it's accessible from inside. Anybody have an opinion on that?

 

[94Discovery]

I have to drill our the pop rivets holding the top tunnel plate in because I'll need to mod it for the manual shifter. I'm thinking of putting rivnuts in the body panels, and then screwing the plate back down from the top, so it's accessible from inside. Anybody have an opinion on that?

riv nut is a good solution there is 2 types countersink and the flat if you use the countersink make sure that the surface has enough thickness or you will not be able to mount the riv nut ,if you go with flat ones the shifter plate will not mate the other surface make sure to put some silicon to seal all the gaps so you do not smell anything in the cab .

 

[R_Lefebvre]

riv nut is a good solution there is 2 types countersink and the flat if you use the countersink make sure that the surface has enough thickness or you will not be able to mount the riv nut ,if you go with flat ones the shifter plate will not mate the other surface make sure to put some silicon to seal all the gaps so you do not smell anything in the cab .

Yep, I was thinking of just that. The riv nuts might ensure a nice thickness of silicone on the joint too. I haven't seen countersunk rivnuts. Huh.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Found a pretty great resource I wish I had found earlier. This web page has parts exploded views with all the part numbers. Even if they don't list the part for sale, the parts are all in exploded view with all the part numbers. Found a few parts I was missing. Most important, is the upper half of the clutch hydraulic pipe.

http://www.landroverclassicparts.com.au/?p=home

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Transfer case is out. Dropped it onto my chest. It actually wasn't bad at all except there's not really enough clearance between the trans output shaft and the back of the transmission tunnel to get it off. So I buggered up the TC input seal, which isn't a surprise. It would have been much easier if I hadn't followed the Rave CD, but took the transmission mount off first so that the powertrain tipped down a bit. Oh well.

But, I'm a little nervous about doing the same with the transmission, as it probably weighs twice as much. I'll either get a friend to help, or a jack.

I had a helper tonight, but not for the big jobs.

 

[AxeAngel]

That Tcase isnt light, with the ebrake drum its got to be around 100lbs or so.
Can't believe you dropped it on yourself... Ballsy and stupid

As for the clips that hold the hi/lo and the CDL linkage, its a C clip with a pin that passes through. Flip the C part up, hit it with some lube and finesse the end of the pin out with a nail or drift pin or something, once it moves a little it will be a lot easier to get out.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, the drum was already off. So maybe 80lbs. I could tell as I worked it off that it would be fine. And really, wasn't bad at all if it hadn't have gotten stuck, but I'll need to do something else for the trans. I'm pretty sure I can lift the R380 back up, but the ZF looks heavy.

I got those clips. They were a PITA, but I got them. It is the clip holding the cable into the bracket that were impossible. I just took the whole shifter out with the box.

There's a bolt in the end of the output shaft of the ZF, not sure what that's for. There isn't one in the end of the R380 output shaft, but there is a threaded hole. Not sure if I need to transfer it? I can't figure what it does.

 

[ntsqd]

Sounds like a job for a trans floor jack. Something like:

I just used one of these exactly to help with the rebuild of an NV4500 in an Early Bronco. Made life very easy and simple.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I might go to the rental place, see if they have one. It's just not something I need very often. It's not just the money, but the storage space.

Huh, Princess Auto has one on sale for $99. It's probably cheap crap but, for the number of times I'll use it... And it might help get the Xfer back up without destroying the input seal.

http://www.princessauto.com/shop-ga...evices/1030002-transmission/differential-jack

What do you think, crap? The saddle doesn't really look like it's designed very well for an auto trans with a big oil pan.