Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

I have to add it up, but it was like $3000 or something. I actually have some extra parts because I purchased them seperately, but Ashcroft already put them in the bellhousing for me. Roughly speaking, the transmission, clutch and bellhousing was $2000, shipped, brand new from Ashcroft, and all the other parts were about $1100 from Lucky8. It could be done for a lot less if you went with used parts. Even at $3000, it's still less than it would have been for a professionally rebuilt auto trans.

Tom, thanks, always helpful. :beer: Good, now that I know it's nothing special, I can just get some locally. Grade 8 is easy, I can also get "Grade 9" from Fastenall as well. I'm actually somewhat surprised at the machining quality on the flywheel. That, and wooden box it came in, you'd think it was made in China.

Good tip about the cut-off bolts, I'll do that as Justin said getting the transmission on was a PITA. I think there's supposed to be dowels as well, there's none in the bellhousing, but I see the holes. Are the dowels in the block?

 

[Antichrist]

There are a couple of dowels in the flywheel housing, but they are short enough that you pretty much have to have the gearbox installed far enough to engage the clutch splines before they enter the bell housing.

Using 5" locator dowels (taper the ends to make it even easier) makes installing the gearbox a lot easier, especially if you have it on a wheeled transmission jack. The lift pad on my floor jack is removable so I made an adaptor to fit it and used the cradle diagramed in the shop manual.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

That cradle, is it in the Rave, or some other manual?

Oh, I was told there was a drain hole on the bottom of the bellhousing, and you fit a wading plug to keep the water out when wading. But mine doesn't have a tapped hole down there? There seems to be a small cast in channel at the mounting face. What's the story there?

Trying to avoid the problems the JK Jeep guys have with clutches being destroyed when submerged.

 

[michaelgroves]

Traction control again, is really no big deal and comes in the form of a little black toggle labeled ARB.

I certainly didn't want to disable the TC until I had locking diffs, which I do not yet. But as you say, once you have an ARB, it's not as much of a bother.

If I had to choose, I'd take a full-locker like an ARB over TC any time. But having both is actually quite a benefit. TC works very well on ice and snow, for example, where a locker can quickly get you sideways. And TC is generally kinder to the drivetrain, especially when traction conditions are extremely variable (rocks etc.). And of course TC's useful when traction is unexpectedly lost.

It would seem a pity to lose it unless you really have to.

 

[muskyman]

If I had to choose, I'd take a full-locker like an ARB over TC any time. But having both is actually quite a benefit. TC works very well on ice and snow, for example, where a locker can quickly get you sideways. And TC is generally kinder to the drivetrain, especially when traction conditions are extremely variable (rocks etc.). And of course TC's useful when traction is unexpectedly lost.

It would seem a pity to lose it unless you really have to.

I have to agree with you on this one Michael, for day to day driving TC works great and really makes a top heavy truck easier to drive as these trucks tend to unweight the rear inside tire on corners.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I agree. I do want to keep the TC enabled. My statement was more that, under no circumstances do I want to disable TC and also not have a locker. To me that would severely hinder the capability of the truck. One or the other at the least, and ideally, both.

At this point, Justin is still working on trying to reprogram an ECU for manual transmission. Meanwhile, Doug who put the Cummins in his D2, worked around the problem by leaving the transmission controller installed, along with the range selector switch which he left in neutral. He hasn't confirmed with me yet, but I believe that will leave the TC functional, though I'll still have trouble codes. If this is going to be this way long term, I'll look at other options, maybe installing resistors to fool the trans controller into thinking the transmission is still there. I don't know at this point.

 

[Antichrist]

That cradle, is it in the Rave, or some other manual?

D1 Workshop Manual, first page of Service Tools in the manual gearbox section.

 

[Viggen]

I have to agree with you on this one Michael, for day to day driving TC works great and really makes a top heavy truck easier to drive as these trucks tend to unweight the rear inside tire on corners.

I can understand that its just that I have never driven a truck aggressively enough to trigger the traction control. The skidding car lamp used to light up on a daily basis on my VW GLI but then again, it was a front wheel drive car with over 250 hp. When the snow comes, tires are changed and I still never used the traction control. I would sacrifice gladly traction control for a better powertrain where I wouldnt have to worry about dropping sleeves. I guess its all up to driving styles and builds I guess.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

D1 Workshop Manual, first page of Service Tools in the manual gearbox section.

Don't have that. How heavy is the ZF compared to the R380? I can lift the R380, so as long as I'm not going to kill myself dropping the ZF, I might just do it by hand.

Or I'll make something. We'll see.

I can understand that its just that I have never driven a truck aggressively enough to trigger the traction control.

Really? I have the TC on daily in the winter, or summer if it's raining. The D2 likes to unweight the inside front wheel accelerating in a corner.

 

[Root Moose]

Don't have that. How heavy is the ZF compared to the R380? I can lift the R380, so as long as I'm not going to kill myself dropping the ZF, I might just do it by hand.

Or I'll make something. We'll see.

Rent a tranny jack (or buy at PA). Work like this goes so much easier when you use the correct tools. I've dropped plenty of transmissions and transfer cases onto my chest - once you use a jack you realize how stupid that is. LOL Same can be said for dry wall lifts.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, truck is under the knife. Cleaned up the shop cause it was a disaster, full of sawdust. Got the driveshafts out and removed the console and shifter.

I'm struggling with the bastard bolts holding the crossmember on. I don't know what's up with them. I hit them with penetrating oil, will let them stew a while. The exhaust bolts are going to be real fun too. Not much left of the nuts. I'll just cut them off if I have to. But the front top joints coming off the manifolts look like bundles of fun too. Can't get any tools on them other than the mother of all extensions on a impact gun. If that doesn't work, I can't even get in there to cut them off. Any trick for those? Again, the nut is just a ball of rust. Will I need to order new gaskets for those? Looks like a pretty unique gasket if there is one there.

 

[AxeAngel]

Well, truck is under the knife. Cleaned up the shop cause it was a disaster, full of sawdust. Got the driveshafts out and removed the console and shifter.

I'm struggling with the bastard bolts holding the crossmember on. I don't know what's up with them. I hit them with penetrating oil, will let them stew a while. The exhaust bolts are going to be real fun too. Not much left of the nuts. I'll just cut them off if I have to. But the front top joints coming off the manifolts look like bundles of fun too. Can't get any tools on them other than the mother of all extensions on a impact gun. If that doesn't work, I can't even get in there to cut them off. Any trick for those? Again, the nut is just a ball of rust. Will I need to order new gaskets for those? Looks like a pretty unique gasket if there is one there.

Just break off the crossmember bolts, everyone has that problem. My crossmember is only being held on by two bolts on one side. It isn't a crossmember as it isn't structural. Its just a skid plate of sorts. Break em off.

As for exhaust I had to cut off and drill out the two exhaust bolts from the y pipe going to the muffler. No gasket there. Just replaced with standard bolts.

For the front exhaust manifold let the pblaster soak. Mine came out whole with some finessing. Some were 12mm and some were 13mm bolts.

If you need anything else let me know. Changed out two transfer cases recently.

-Sam

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I'm working on those bolts. What a PITA! Any trick to break them off? I'm drilling the heads out, but it's slow. I have no idea how I'll get the rest of the bolt out so I can use the holes. I have brocken screw extractors but gosh, this is taking enough time as it is.

The problem with these bolts is the heads are reduced size from standard. The head is about the same size as the thread. Just can't get enough torque on them until they round off. I was going to say they're soft, but then, frig they're hard to drill too. Maybe it's just because I'm on my back pushing up.

Got the parking brake off too. I took it all apart so I could get the cable out of the shoe. Then I"m pulling trying to get the cable to release from the backing plate retainer, and the whole cable comes out from the top. GAH! Didn't need to disassemble it at all. Oh well, I'll take the opportunity to degrease and clean the whole assembly and rebuild it. I'll need it in tip top shape because I'll have to use it for hill starts.

Uh Oh, I feel a case of shipfitters disease coming on.

 

[AxeAngel]

Yeah, I'm working on those bolts. What a PITA! Any trick to break them off? I'm drilling the heads out, but it's slow. I have no idea how I'll get the rest of the bolt out so I can use the holes. I have brocken screw extractors but gosh, this is taking enough time as it is.

The problem with these bolts is the heads are reduced size from standard. The head is about the same size as the thread. Just can't get enough torque on them until they round off. I was going to say they're soft, but then, frig they're hard to drill too. Maybe it's just because I'm on my back pushing up.

Got the parking brake off too. I took it all apart so I could get the cable out of the shoe. Then I"m pulling trying to get the cable to release from the backing plate retainer, and the whole cable comes out from the top. GAH! Didn't need to disassemble it at all. Oh well, I'll take the opportunity to degrease and clean the whole assembly and rebuild it. I'll need it in tip top shape because I'll have to use it for hill starts.

Uh Oh, I feel a case of shipfitters disease coming on.

Try tightening the crossmember bolts. They will just break. Yup total PITA to drill out. Just break the heads and off you go. I don't know many people that didn't break the bolts(there are a few but very few).

The exhaust bolts are gonna be a lot more fun.

You are doing a zf and not lt230 right?

-Sam

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I couldn't snap the heads off, they just rounded. I don't have an 8mm impact socket, just a chrome one, so no chance of torqueing them off. Anyway, it's done now. Drilled out all 8. Fark.

At least I was mentally prepared for that thing to be like that. But one can always hope.

I can just cut off all the exhaust bolts except the top ones. Got a good look at the cast iron header. What a joke. The primaries are tiny!

What do you mean ZF and not LT230?

I'm putting an R380 L-suffix box in with the original LT230.

Anybody want a ZF24 core for a rebuild? Should be in great shape, the steels should be good, just needs new clutches! Maybe I'll make a cocktail table out of it.