Canyonlands, Cap Reef, Bryce, etc: "Utah Sampler" trip report (warning, photos!)

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Canyonlands, Cap Reef, Bryce, etc: "Utah Sampler" trip report (warning, photos!)

Alright, so here's the account of my recent 6-day solo trip through Southeastern Utah. I called it my "Utah Sampler" trip because I was determined to sample as much of the different varieties of environment as I could in my short, 6 day run.

Here's the breakdown by days:

Day 1, 23 March 08

Departed Englewood in a rain/snow mix early on Easter morning. After filling up with gas (the last time I would see gas under $3/gallon) I headed up I-70 Westbound. I was hoping to beat the ski traffic, and in fact, I did. After I got through a brief bit of very light snow, I broke into the clear and had no traffic problems at all. In fact, I made it to Glenwood Springs (about 180 miles) in exactly 2 ½ hours, I’m fairly certain that’s the fastest I’ve ever made it there. By 1pm I was in Green River, UT, filling up again and topping off my food supplies.

Here's a photo from the cliffs near Green River:

01_book_cliffs_near_green_river.jpg


After that, it was off the interstate onto UT 24, a scenic route that leads into San Rafael Swell country. The further Southwest you go on this road, the more fantastic rock shapes you see.

My first destination was Goblin Valley State Park. My Delorme Atlas and Gazetteer indicated that there were two ways to get into Goblin Valley, one by way of a road that approaches from the North, and another by way of a road that approaches directly from the east. From the way the map was drawn, it seemed that the shorter road approaching from the east was the “main” road and the North road was a less-maintained dirt road. It was a mistake, not the first I’ve seen an a Delorme atlas. I bypassed the Northern route, which is well marked and paved, thinking the “main” route would be even more well designated. Well, it wasn’t. Not only was it not designated, it’s not a very good road: It is a narrow, sandy two-track blocked by an unlocked gate, and with a sign warning travelers that high-clearance 4wd vehicles only can take this road. Shrugging my shoulders, I went on in, heading towards the impressive rock formation called Molly’s Castle.

02_mollys_castle.jpg


After a surprisingly rough road (that actually required me to shift into low range to climb a couple of rock ledges) and another unlocked gate, the road spit me out at the entrance to Goblin Valley.

Goblin Valley itself is a small park, but filled with amazing rock formations. When I looked out over the valley from the vantage point, I thought it looked like thousands of mud soldiers were just standing there, waiting for orders. A very weird and impressive place!

The people in the picture give you an idea of scale:

03_goblin_valley_overview.jpg


04_goblin_valley_detail.jpg


But I still had to get to my campsite so I headed back, this time taking the northern route which, not surprisingly, was not dirt and was in fact a well maintained hard surfaced road! All the way back out to Highway 24, I turned South again, briefly, and then turned East onto the dirt road that leads to Horseshoe Canyon and Hans Flat. This was about 45 miles of well-graded dirt that passes in between two large, flat-topped mesas, and eventually climbs up onto a high ridge that offers a good view of both the valley to the West and the Canyonlands to the East. After a fast and dusty drive, I got closer and closer to Hans Flat, each time hoping to find a decent place to camp. I passed a few likely spots, but they didn’t look ideal and in most cases there was not an established campsite.

Less than a mile from Hans Flat, I found a fantastic site, right off the road, and obviously well used. As it was Easter Sunday, there was nobody there. I pulled in, set up the truck tent, and pulled my cooking gear and cooler out into the campfire area, which was very well established. The site was not only well protected and off the road, it offered an amazing view of the Dirty Devil River canyon to the Southwest as well as the Henry Mountains to the South.

05_dirty_devil_river_from_cs_1.jpg


Since I was on BLM land and there were no fire restrictions that I was aware of, I decided not to use my propane stove and figured I would avail myself of the nicely constructed fire ring and copious amounts of dry firewood that previous campers had collected. A nice simple dinner by the campfire and a couple of beers under the amazing starlight and I was ready for bed.

To be continued....:p
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Day 2...

Day 2, 24 March 08

Woke up with the sun, a little chilly but not uncomfortable. I had heard some sounds during the night around midnight, and looking around confirmed my suspicion that I had been joined at my campsite by another traveler. He was in an older Suzuki Sidekick and was pulling a tiny little tent trailer. He seemed to still be asleep when I got up (which made sense, since he got in around midnight) so I tried to keep it quiet as I made my breakfast and packed up the truck.

After less than an hour, I was on the road again, driving to the Hans Flat Ranger station. I got there shortly after it opened at 8am and had a nice chat with the ranger. He showed me where the trails went, sold me a detailed map, and gave me a bunch of handouts showing me some of the features of this area of Canyonlands and Glen Canyon NRA. He also pointed out, to my disappointment, that I would probably not be able to make it into the lower Canyonlands as the Flint Trail coming off the high plateau was still very icy and snowpacked. As he put it “if you have chains for all 4 wheels, you’ll probably be OK, but if not, I wouldn’t risk it.” Since I couldn’t go Southeast towards the Doll House and the Maze Overlook, I decided to head North towards Horseshoe Canyon.

It was only a few miles up the road before I started seeing the fantastic views of the Canyonlands themselves as I drove along the top of a formation called the Orange Cliffs.

Cleopatra’s Chair loomed huge over the curved plateaus that jutted out into the desert:

06_cleopatras_chair_in_distance.jpg


About 12 miles up I got to the High Spur campground exit. I turned off, thinking it would get me closer to the edge of the Orange Cliffs. After descending a very steep, rutted and rocky trail about ¾ of a mile, I came to a breathtaking overview underneath a looming rock formation that reminded me of the giant Easter Island statues.

08_High_spur_campground.jpg


Heading back up to the main road, I continued North towards Horseshoe Canyon. I eventually arrived around 11am at the parking area where the road into the canyon is closed off. Apparently at one time you could drive into Horseshoe Canyon but the road washed out some years ago and now the narrow shelf road that descends into the canyon is gone in several places.

I seriously considered hiking to “The Gallery”, where there are large petroglyphs on the side of the canyon, but was put off by the estimated 3-4 hour travel time. So, instead I just hiked around a bit and had some lunch. It was also quite warm by this time, with the temps getting into the high 70’s or low 80’s.

After lunch I returned towards Hans Flat, taking about an hour to get there. Then I turned South to head towards my reserved campground at Panorama Point. Panorama Point and Cleopatra’s Chair are both located on the end of a plateau that sticks out into the Canyonlands. The trail is only about 8 miles long, but very quickly becomes extremely rutted and rocky. It is definitely 4wd only, with low-range required on many parts of it as you descend rock ledges that are 12-18” high on a regular basis.

07_road_to_High_spur.jpg


The road goes out onto the plateau and then forks, where going left will take you to Cleopatra’s Chair. Cleopatra’s Chair is indeed a huge formation, but the campground is a little desolate.

Closeup of Cleo's Chair. My truck is in the lower center of the photo for size comparison:

09_Cleopatras_chair.jpg


After snapping a few photos, I headed back to the South, this time taking the other fork out to my designated campsite at Panorama Point. The road is again quite rough, and in places takes out across the flat rock where the edges of the trail are marked by orderly rows of rocks put there by the park staff.

A quick look at the Panorama Point campground confirmed by decision to camp here.

11_looking_east_into_the_maze.jpg


12_sunset_over_the_maze.jpg


To say it is stunning is really an understatement. In fact, even the photos don’t do it justice because there’s no way to depict what it feels like to be completely surrounded by the splendor of the Canyonlands. The campsite is about 20 feet from a 200-300 foot sheer cliff.

I immediately set up my folding chair under a convenient shade tree and had myself a snack as I enjoyed the grandeur of the Canyonlands. Country singer Kenney Chesney has a song about an “old blue chair” that you’ve probably heard on the radio if you listen to country music at all. Well, I’ll put the view from my “old blue chair” up against Kenney’s any day of the week!

10_view_from_the_blue_chair.jpg


After that it was dinner, then setting up the tent for the night. I quickly discovered that if I wanted to be able to cook anything without using up way too much propane, I would have to put the stove inside the tailgate portion of the truck to keep the wind from blowing the flames out. Even though it was calm most of the time, the wind was enough to make cooking a bit of a chore, but by keeping the stove in the shelter of the camper shell, it worked fine.

To be continued...:D
 

Brett M

Adventurer
Wow, we missed seeing you on that road to Molly's Castle by just a few hours I'd say. You must have stopped at one of the smoother spots....the cow's made that road ROUGH.

As for Horsehoe Canyon, were you on the east or west side? The east side you can drive down (unless I just haven't heard about it being washed out.) The west side has been closed for a long long time, only hikers now.

Definately looks like a great time. I'm planning a trip around that same area and into the Maze this fall. I've camped out at Cleopatra's before......awesome views!
 

Moody

Needs to get out more
Fantastic. You certainly saw some of the best that Utah has to offer. Anxiously awaiting more.

When are you coming back?

(I say that because every person that goes and sees these areas plans to come back rapidly...)
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Moody said:
Fantastic. You certainly saw some of the best that Utah has to offer. Anxiously awaiting more.

When are you coming back?

Not sure exactly but I'm definitely coming back. Maybe this summer or fall. Nice thing about Utah is that I can explore areas of the Utah backcountry at times of the year when Colorado is still pretty much snowed in.
 

Moody

Needs to get out more
Martinjmpr said:
Nice thing about Utah is that I can explore areas of the Utah backcountry at times of the year when Colorado is still pretty much snowed in.


So true. I really think the best time to see much of Southern Utah is in the winter months. Gives the area an even more pristine feel...
 

kcowyo

ExPo Original
Wonderful Martin. :clapsmile



We've been waiting for your report. Keep it coming....:lurk:
 

Paul R

Adventurer
Looks like a great trip!
I can't wait to see the full report. I am planning on some trips down there soon :).
 

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