Cargo Boxes - Why you do. Why you don't
- Thread starter Christophe Noel
- Start date
Happy Joe
Apprentice Geezer
Do I and why?...
Due to aerodynamics (and the fact that low hanging tree branches will, regularly, forcibly, remove any tents, lights boxes and/or racks above the roof line); I avoid such things.
Desert camping and travel can be neat but I prefer nice, shady, cool, camping; and travel by Jeep trail when possible.
Enjoy!
Due to aerodynamics (and the fact that low hanging tree branches will, regularly, forcibly, remove any tents, lights boxes and/or racks above the roof line); I avoid such things.
Desert camping and travel can be neat but I prefer nice, shady, cool, camping; and travel by Jeep trail when possible.
Enjoy!
Byways
Adventurer
To respond to the title of this thread ...
I am on my third Yakima rooftop box, packed and mounted properly on round bars. This is because Yakima's boxes in my experience consistently do not hold up for long under even mild dirt-road use ... no "four-wheeling," just basic two-tracks and other typical Forest Service, BLM and Park Service unpaved roads that folks herein are familiar with.
This experience concurs with Yakima's position, which is that their boxes are unsuited to use that is anything worse than paved roads, well-maintained and lightly graveled roads, and hard-pack unpaved roads that are in good condition. Use beyond that may void the warranty, according to instructions.
I recently concluded an extended email and phone exchange with Yakima's warranty department in which I asked only for a solution to consistent and continual cracking of their boxes. Unless clamped very securely -- Yakima specifies only "firm" clamping -- I find they will migrate across the bars as well.
They were attentive and responsive, and seemed genuinely interested in the problem. They said the problem is unique to me, even though there are many YouTube videos depicting attempts to patch cracks in Thule and Yakima rooftop cargo boxes. In my case, the cracks typically occur at the four clamping points.
Specifically, Yakima states that their products are unsuited to "off-road use." Since I never travel off roads, and only when necessary do what some would consider rough "four-wheeling," I asked for their definition of the term "off-road" (a term I abandoned decades ago, because it often is incorrectly defined to mean unpaved roads ... and some people take the term literally).
This was the Yakima's response:
"Anytime you are not on paved or at least well graded hard packed road you are off road." That states the limitations of their products' use.
I sent Yakima the photos below (as well as photos of the cracks). (Sorry for the size!) They depict what for me is normal and frequent use of their rooftop cargo boxes. I don't think it's abuse. So I asked if this fell within their definition of "off-road" use for which their products are unsuited. They said it did.
In the end, I encouraged Yakima to stop posting photos on their website depicting this kind of use (and worse!), and to state clearly in all marketing the limitations of their products' intended use.
I also encouraged them to develop more robust cargo boxes suited to this use, and which still provide anti-theft security. But these were warranty specialists I spoke with, not product managers.
Until they do so, I cannot recommend that anyone spend ~$450 on a Yakima cargo box, and I am actively searching for an equally convenient alternative.
I am on my third Yakima rooftop box, packed and mounted properly on round bars. This is because Yakima's boxes in my experience consistently do not hold up for long under even mild dirt-road use ... no "four-wheeling," just basic two-tracks and other typical Forest Service, BLM and Park Service unpaved roads that folks herein are familiar with.
This experience concurs with Yakima's position, which is that their boxes are unsuited to use that is anything worse than paved roads, well-maintained and lightly graveled roads, and hard-pack unpaved roads that are in good condition. Use beyond that may void the warranty, according to instructions.
I recently concluded an extended email and phone exchange with Yakima's warranty department in which I asked only for a solution to consistent and continual cracking of their boxes. Unless clamped very securely -- Yakima specifies only "firm" clamping -- I find they will migrate across the bars as well.
They were attentive and responsive, and seemed genuinely interested in the problem. They said the problem is unique to me, even though there are many YouTube videos depicting attempts to patch cracks in Thule and Yakima rooftop cargo boxes. In my case, the cracks typically occur at the four clamping points.
Specifically, Yakima states that their products are unsuited to "off-road use." Since I never travel off roads, and only when necessary do what some would consider rough "four-wheeling," I asked for their definition of the term "off-road" (a term I abandoned decades ago, because it often is incorrectly defined to mean unpaved roads ... and some people take the term literally).
This was the Yakima's response:
"Anytime you are not on paved or at least well graded hard packed road you are off road." That states the limitations of their products' use.
I sent Yakima the photos below (as well as photos of the cracks). (Sorry for the size!) They depict what for me is normal and frequent use of their rooftop cargo boxes. I don't think it's abuse. So I asked if this fell within their definition of "off-road" use for which their products are unsuited. They said it did.
In the end, I encouraged Yakima to stop posting photos on their website depicting this kind of use (and worse!), and to state clearly in all marketing the limitations of their products' intended use.
I also encouraged them to develop more robust cargo boxes suited to this use, and which still provide anti-theft security. But these were warranty specialists I spoke with, not product managers.
Until they do so, I cannot recommend that anyone spend ~$450 on a Yakima cargo box, and I am actively searching for an equally convenient alternative.
robert
Expedition Leader
You can put hose clamps on the bars, just outside of the clamps, to keep the boxes from sliding on the bars. I don't know how your mounts are in your box but I know at one time there were folks who recommended creating a larger mounting plate out of aluminum and mounting it on top of the factory plate with bolts and the strong 3M marine adhesive (I can't recall which number at the moment). the idea being to disperse the weight and vibration and hopefully prevent cracking. I've also seen where a couple of Jeepers had an aluminum band riveted (and possible used adhesive too) around the outside of the top lip. I'm assuming to either cover up cracking or to try to prevent it and provide some protection from impacts.
There are ways to repair them but yeah, they generally look pretty ghetto. I always kind of figured that's what the stickers were for, to cover up cracks and repairs. Nope, no stickers on mine or on my air dam. I guess you could get it vinyl wrapped?
I was looking at my Yakima racks today and the plastic coating on my round bars is in pretty bad shape with lots of cracks in them. I'd like to go to the aero bars but I don't want to spend the money updating everything. The Hulley Rollers and to a lesser extent the Mako sadlles used to piss me off when they'd roll on the bars no matter how tight you had them. Of course I don't use the Hulley Rollers anymore since the rollers are a horrible sticky mess and you can't get parts to rebuild them.
There are ways to repair them but yeah, they generally look pretty ghetto. I always kind of figured that's what the stickers were for, to cover up cracks and repairs. Nope, no stickers on mine or on my air dam. I guess you could get it vinyl wrapped?
I was looking at my Yakima racks today and the plastic coating on my round bars is in pretty bad shape with lots of cracks in them. I'd like to go to the aero bars but I don't want to spend the money updating everything. The Hulley Rollers and to a lesser extent the Mako sadlles used to piss me off when they'd roll on the bars no matter how tight you had them. Of course I don't use the Hulley Rollers anymore since the rollers are a horrible sticky mess and you can't get parts to rebuild them.
Byways
Adventurer
Thanks these suggestions, Robert. The plastic wrap on the round bars doesn't last long, either.
My overall thought is that we shouldn't need to do any of this, given the cost of the stuff, and that Yakima is correct: Their products aren't made for us. Yet there does appear to be a market for something suitable.
Gave a great '19!
nastav
Adventurer
https://packasport.com/
Heavy and expensive....a packasport box will easily outlive two high end Yakima or thule boxes....making it a wash.
Craigslist provides packasport boxes infrequently.....but they do show up.
They are also rebuildable for the most part.
Byways
Adventurer
Well that's quite an endorsement! Do you think they still make 'em like they used to?
Byways
Adventurer
Thanks for that idea! I did some reading, and it seems Packasport makes a good product but isn't a well-run company ... some fulfillment and customer-service probs. But those wouldn't be issues with a used one. I'll keep an eye out. Just hard to believe some engineer-ish entrepreneur hasn't grabbed this opportunity. Sad!
nastav
Adventurer
The mass market cargo boxes dominate the market, and are available at places (REI) people shop that don’t know tons about niche products.....I doubt that a packasport at $1,200 would have a chance in that retail sales environment against thule and Yakima.
I believe the company changed hands at some Point, but I suspect they are limited by sales volume to be produced as they are ordered?
They seem to be gaining a bit of traction because some of the high end van builders (outside van) are using them. I mean there is a packasport instagram page.....that seems really modern for them.
I think making things out of fiberglass isn’t super lucrative as it’s way more labor intensive than pop outs made of plastic.
Byways
Adventurer
One gets what one pays for. And it's about the cost if many things we spend money on to do this thing. Hell, a set of tires is nearly $1,000 and won't last me more than three seasons.
robert
Expedition Leader
The crazy thing is that with CAD programing the molds shouldn't be that hard to make and that's got to be the biggest expense. Laying up a fiberglass box can't be that expensive but there's only a limited market for them so they have to make their money back- like so many other specialty products. I'd say it might be worth looking into making the halves and selling them with instructions and a parts kit for the consumer to put together as well as an assembled model for folks who don't mind dropping the coin for expensive items like Baja Racks.
Thule and Yakima boxes really aren't very well made, especially for what they charge. They're what, injection molded plastic (?), cheap hardware that's typically riveted on and an expensive sticker on both sides.
Thule and Yakima boxes really aren't very well made, especially for what they charge. They're what, injection molded plastic (?), cheap hardware that's typically riveted on and an expensive sticker on both sides.
Byways
Adventurer
Odd thing is, my old unfashionable Sears clamshell box worked perfectly for many hard seasons. Shoulda kept it ...
In the meantime ... I have 2 roof baskets (Yakima) that are good, but provide no convenient "civilization" parking-lot security. Looking for ideas for securing storage boxes ...
In the meantime ... I have 2 roof baskets (Yakima) that are good, but provide no convenient "civilization" parking-lot security. Looking for ideas for securing storage boxes ...
robert
Expedition Leader
What about mounting some hinges and hasps on some of the metal surplus military containers and securing them to your rack. They won't win you style points and they're heavier but they're designed for military operations including being strapped onto airdrop pallets, riding in the back of cargo trucks, etc.
Byways
Adventurer
It looks as though your box is resting on the multiple flat cross rails in your cargo rack. Is that correct? If so, that may distribute the weight and stresses better than if it were mounted on only two cross rails, as is typical.