If you are going to have more than just the stock electrical load (vehicle lights, radio, hvac) it wouldn't be a bad idea. I think alot of people are putting heavier wiring in due to the common isue with the eyelet at the alternator melting. That problem is usually caused by the nut loosing up. It then makes a bad connection, which leads to heat. Then you have melting. If an inverter, extra batteries, more lights, and other things of that nature are in the future, it also is not a bad idea. Heavier cable is not going to hurt anything.
CrabbyMcNab's Adventure with Blunderbuss
- Thread starter CrabbyMcNab
- Start date
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
Anybody know where to get an intake heat shield? Apparently someone forgot to put it back on prior to my purchase of the van.
There was a website someone posted where you can search local salvage yards for specific parts. Anyone have it handy?
Plan on getting all things buttoned up this weekend, minus the alternator as the vendor doesn't have the best communication skills.
There was a website someone posted where you can search local salvage yards for specific parts. Anyone have it handy?
Plan on getting all things buttoned up this weekend, minus the alternator as the vendor doesn't have the best communication skills.
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
Quick Update
-the alternator should be here today, delivery weather permitting. I went with one from Alternatorparts.com. The company had pretty decent reviews and from what I read online (with a grain of salt), their remedies for the Ford 6g alternators seem to be spot on; Upgraded HD bridge rectifier, larger case, new bearings, HD voltage regulator. When it gets a little warmer out, I will look into possibly upgrading all the battery cables to get the most potential out of my charging system. A buddy has been itching to make his own cables and helping me may have tipped the scales to buy the necessary tools.
- Got the oil cooler and IPResearch EGR Delete installed with no problems. The intake manifolds had a lot of gooey carbon buildup. I used a plastic scrapper and got as much as I could. It was only the drivers side, not the front nor passenger side.
- had to clean the intake air sensor, it was gooped up with Carbon, carb cleaner made it shiny new, I hope the chemicals don't harm the sensor itself?
- Bonus, the van already had an upgraded turbo drain tube, I just had to source new o-rings. I cross referenced a ford kit to Carquest and got the Victor Reinz kit for $6 plus tax. I can send back the new drain tube I bought and recoup some money!
- Installed the updated STC fitting, I already had the area clear, so why not. The old fitting didn't have any cracks and I didn't see any cracks on the housing next to it, so I should be fine. Very easy to if you are already that far into the tear down.
- I was going to update the stand pipes, but realized it's impossible to get the valve covers off without dropping the engine a little or taking the body off. I'll keep em until that problem arises.
- As soon as it's running again, I plan on replacing the coolant. I need to find someplace close that carries Fleetguard products, or if not, I'll run to Ford for the cleaner. I have an external coolant filter already to install during the process.
- Previously this summer I added Monstaliner to the lower portion to A cover the road rash scratches, and B to protect from further scratches.
-the alternator should be here today, delivery weather permitting. I went with one from Alternatorparts.com. The company had pretty decent reviews and from what I read online (with a grain of salt), their remedies for the Ford 6g alternators seem to be spot on; Upgraded HD bridge rectifier, larger case, new bearings, HD voltage regulator. When it gets a little warmer out, I will look into possibly upgrading all the battery cables to get the most potential out of my charging system. A buddy has been itching to make his own cables and helping me may have tipped the scales to buy the necessary tools.
- Got the oil cooler and IPResearch EGR Delete installed with no problems. The intake manifolds had a lot of gooey carbon buildup. I used a plastic scrapper and got as much as I could. It was only the drivers side, not the front nor passenger side.
- had to clean the intake air sensor, it was gooped up with Carbon, carb cleaner made it shiny new, I hope the chemicals don't harm the sensor itself?
- Bonus, the van already had an upgraded turbo drain tube, I just had to source new o-rings. I cross referenced a ford kit to Carquest and got the Victor Reinz kit for $6 plus tax. I can send back the new drain tube I bought and recoup some money!
- Installed the updated STC fitting, I already had the area clear, so why not. The old fitting didn't have any cracks and I didn't see any cracks on the housing next to it, so I should be fine. Very easy to if you are already that far into the tear down.
- I was going to update the stand pipes, but realized it's impossible to get the valve covers off without dropping the engine a little or taking the body off. I'll keep em until that problem arises.
- As soon as it's running again, I plan on replacing the coolant. I need to find someplace close that carries Fleetguard products, or if not, I'll run to Ford for the cleaner. I have an external coolant filter already to install during the process.
- Previously this summer I added Monstaliner to the lower portion to A cover the road rash scratches, and B to protect from further scratches.
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
Masked off the area to "paint", scrubbed with supplied pads (same as brown/red pads), wiped with MEK and painted two coats.
This stuff is thick and dries extremely quick. I have used Herculiner in the past, and Monstaliner seems to be a better product. Not as "rough" to the touch and coats better.
Lots of colors to choose from and searching online will usually produce coupon codes.
http://www.monstaliner.com/
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
The sales papers said the turbo was cleaned at the dealer which was June 2014 and roughly 2500 miles. Judging by the upgraded drain tube, I would imagine it was.
I made my crayola index marks and separated the turbo. A very light coating of dry carbon which I was able to rub off with a mild scrub pad. The ring, moveable vanes, static vane "cluster" were cleaned with a minimal amount of effort. I may have been able to use a cotton towel to clean things up if I wanted. I didn't use any type of lube upon reassembly.
I did not do anything to the aluminum side of the turbo.
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
I am in need of the heat shield that goes between the intake/EGR and turbo.
I can't seem to find the specific part number or an image online, but rather three. Anybody have a schematic with specific number:
3C3Z-9F460-AA,
3C3Z-9F460-BA, or
3C3Z-9F460-A
I can't seem to find the specific part number or an image online, but rather three. Anybody have a schematic with specific number:
3C3Z-9F460-AA,
3C3Z-9F460-BA, or
3C3Z-9F460-A
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
And.....
I had some free time and finished up the repairs on the van.
Egr delete, oil cooler, STC fitting, oil change,FICM, alternator, charged batteries. Got everything all buttoned up.
Turn the key to the first position, get the normal cycling noise and beeps. Turn the key to next position and POP! No power at all, no lights, no power to the key. Assuming I blew a fuse somewhere, but where do I start?
I had some free time and finished up the repairs on the van.
Egr delete, oil cooler, STC fitting, oil change,FICM, alternator, charged batteries. Got everything all buttoned up.
Turn the key to the first position, get the normal cycling noise and beeps. Turn the key to next position and POP! No power at all, no lights, no power to the key. Assuming I blew a fuse somewhere, but where do I start?
Last edited:
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
She LIVES!!!!!!
Up and running, everything seems to be going smoothly running in the driveway.
If things stay running smoothly, I'll post up a few remarks I have about the entire process.
Up and running, everything seems to be going smoothly running in the driveway.
If things stay running smoothly, I'll post up a few remarks I have about the entire process.
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
I went back through the battery cables and the rear most ground cable was a little loose. I used my recently purchased thread tap to rethread the hole and installed a new bolt. The whole battery situation is ridiculous. I mean, what's the point of having hang straps/cables to keep the battery boxes suspended when the actual cables won't allow the boxes to hang down anyway? Seems as if there is a lot of stress on the cables and terminals.
Anyhow after tightening up the wire, and a minute or so of cranking, fired up and drove around the neighborhood a little.
CrabbyMcNab
Adventurer
Musings from a mediocre shade-tree mechanic…
Musings from a mediocre shade-tree mechanic…
So I figured I would need to address the shortcomings of the Ford 6.0 at some point, but I didn’t expect to address them all at once nor so soon after purchase.
I bought the van almost midyear 2014 with 74,000 miles. A couple trips and by thanksgiving have about 77,000 miles. The van up and leaves me at work in 20 degree weather. Low and behold, the alternator went caput and took the FICM (already a reman unit) with it. That adventure was documented a little in earlier posts. Turns out that my batteries were fine, especially since they aren’t too old.
While looking at the process to get the alternator out to change it, I figured I would tackle some of the issues with the 6.0:
• Ship off the FICM to FICMrepair along with an Atlas 40 upgrade
• After extensive reading and decision making going back and forth, order 160 amp alternatorparts alternator
• Order one piece EGR delete and turbo drain pipe (bonus, it was already upgraded, get to send it back) from IPRresearch
• Already ordered the external coolant filter
• Order oil cooler, fuel filter, oil filter, Ford update kit with oil pump fittings, oil, coolant, coolant system flush, fuel upgrade blue spring kit, serpentine belt, air filter, etc...
Observations
• This forum and youtube has been an invaluable resource for getting these projects done.
• These vans are NOT easy to work on. Next time, I will find a place to lift the body off so I can work. I probably spent more time staring and trying to figure out how I was going to get it done.
• Having the monster Ford service manuals was great, good information and fairly detailed with images. Got mine off ebay for a reasonable price.
• Winter time with temperatures in the teens – 30’s with intermittent snow is not the time to tackle these repairs.
• Having two small children and a wife who compete for your time is a blessing and hindrance all at the same time.
• Remove the front seats to get into the engine bay a little easier. You have to be a contortionist to work on the motor and get things all buttoned up. Thankfully I have long skinny arms.
This isn’t a job for everyone. If you are comfortable turning wrenches and can follow directions, you shouldn’t have any problems. If you are a little squeamish about the work, find a reputable shop to do the work and make sure they know it’s a van (possibly someone who will remove the body to get the work done a little quicker/easier). I’m new to the diesel scene and wanted this opportunity to learn more about my engine and try to save some money, this was expensive but also rewarding knowing I accomplished the most in-depth wrenching session I’ve ever taken on (besides dismantling my CJ7).
No pictures as this has been covered many times over, once I get my cloth Sienna seats in, I’ll get a pictorial update.
Musings from a mediocre shade-tree mechanic…
So I figured I would need to address the shortcomings of the Ford 6.0 at some point, but I didn’t expect to address them all at once nor so soon after purchase.
I bought the van almost midyear 2014 with 74,000 miles. A couple trips and by thanksgiving have about 77,000 miles. The van up and leaves me at work in 20 degree weather. Low and behold, the alternator went caput and took the FICM (already a reman unit) with it. That adventure was documented a little in earlier posts. Turns out that my batteries were fine, especially since they aren’t too old.
While looking at the process to get the alternator out to change it, I figured I would tackle some of the issues with the 6.0:
• Ship off the FICM to FICMrepair along with an Atlas 40 upgrade
• After extensive reading and decision making going back and forth, order 160 amp alternatorparts alternator
• Order one piece EGR delete and turbo drain pipe (bonus, it was already upgraded, get to send it back) from IPRresearch
• Already ordered the external coolant filter
• Order oil cooler, fuel filter, oil filter, Ford update kit with oil pump fittings, oil, coolant, coolant system flush, fuel upgrade blue spring kit, serpentine belt, air filter, etc...
Observations
• This forum and youtube has been an invaluable resource for getting these projects done.
• These vans are NOT easy to work on. Next time, I will find a place to lift the body off so I can work. I probably spent more time staring and trying to figure out how I was going to get it done.
• Having the monster Ford service manuals was great, good information and fairly detailed with images. Got mine off ebay for a reasonable price.
• Winter time with temperatures in the teens – 30’s with intermittent snow is not the time to tackle these repairs.
• Having two small children and a wife who compete for your time is a blessing and hindrance all at the same time.
• Remove the front seats to get into the engine bay a little easier. You have to be a contortionist to work on the motor and get things all buttoned up. Thankfully I have long skinny arms.
This isn’t a job for everyone. If you are comfortable turning wrenches and can follow directions, you shouldn’t have any problems. If you are a little squeamish about the work, find a reputable shop to do the work and make sure they know it’s a van (possibly someone who will remove the body to get the work done a little quicker/easier). I’m new to the diesel scene and wanted this opportunity to learn more about my engine and try to save some money, this was expensive but also rewarding knowing I accomplished the most in-depth wrenching session I’ve ever taken on (besides dismantling my CJ7).
No pictures as this has been covered many times over, once I get my cloth Sienna seats in, I’ll get a pictorial update.
