Creating a Cross Canada Overland Route

deadly99

Explorer
You can see that everyone is working hard on their sections of the TCAT. All seems to be going very well and our timeline looks realistic still. A few more parting shots from different area's of the route, I'm off for some more exploring and wont be checking in for a bit. Hope everyone is enjoying the report and the pics :smiley_drive:


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deadly99

Explorer
More progress - Western Quebec

I headed out last week to drive a section of the TCAT with a couple of friends. My buddy V who is a childhood friend and Rob who I have met through the internet. Rob shares a common interest in exploring, driving trucks and riding bikes and is an easy fellow to get along with. The TCAT is designed for both bikes and trucks and on this adventure we'd use the trucks to explore. I prefer travelling on a bike but but the truck lets me bring friends along who don't ride and also adds the luxury of room to pack stuff, which is a nice for a change.

The route that we intended to drive was a section in western Quebec. Fab has created the route from where the Trans Labrador highway ends in Baie Comeaux and ends just south of a town called Chigbougamau. Our goal was to connect the Ontario/Quebec border with Fabs section of the TCAT. Juames had created a proposed route that leaves the border and travles thorugh a wilderness park called Papineau Labelle and ending in a town called Mont Laurier. From Mont Laurier I had created a proposed route to a town called Parent. From Parent heading north east was a bit fo a crap shoot, you see maps are not reliable for this area of the world. Roads are typically created by logging companies and come and go over the years, none get names and very few show up on any maps (that I could find). The "blank" spot on the map was about the size of the province of Nova Scotia...LARGE.

This map shows gives a rough idea of what we intended to drive.


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deadly99

Explorer
A few weeks of email prepping for the trip, the typical what to bring, where to stay, google and garmin map files, etc took place between Rob and myself. I get a call from Rob the day before saying his truck is having some issues and he may have to be delayed.

Leaving my place and heading for the city

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V and I showed up and Robs on the Friday morning and after a few stops to get parts, etc we were on our way.


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Quickly after leaving the city of Ottawa (capital of Canada, population about a million) we grabbed a ferry across to Quebec. The ferry marks the beginning of us being on the TCAT route for this trip. We'll be travelling the route in reverse so look at your screen in the mirror to see things the way you'll see them when following the route :rofl

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Rob drives a 2004 Landrover Discovery (aka Disco2) and I'm in a Ford Ranger.


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The route followed some pavement through a atown called Buckingham before getting onto gravel roads. Juames had created this next section based on park maps and internet mapping tools. Once again this whole project makes sense to me as what the web and maps show IS NOT what you'd expect at times. Creating a route like this across a country as big as Canada and not test riding it....well you'd never have enough time to finish. The pre riding once again proves itself as we end up in some weird locations that are unpassable or on roads that abrubtly end. Fun for us as we arent doing the entire route but for folks who want an overland route that covers huge distances I presume they wnt want to be turned around, get lost orrustrated by roads to nowhere, etc. For these reasons and many others the idea of a route like the TCAT makes great sense, you get the benefit of local input and get to travel a proven route. Of course even a proven route is bound to have unanticipated obstacles, closed roads, washouts, fallen tree's, decommissioned roads, flooded roads, etc. Sorry, I babble :rofl


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The road became a trail and trail got muddy.


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After a while the inenvitable happened. Mud and a hill dont mix with a two wheel drive truck and I got stuck and had to rely on Rob to pull me back out to firmer ground.



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It quickly became apparent that this was becoming unsuitable for the main route of the TCAT so we back tracked out of the bush. The first local we meet informs us there was a locked gate just above the hill I got stuck on. We decided to jump on some slab and head north to get a few miles done. It was now mid afternoon and we had barely covered any ground. After an hour for so we stopped and made some lunch before heading into Panineau Labelle park to jump on the route again. This part of the TCAT is close to home so I'll hand over my knowledge gained and let juames re work the route and we'll have some fun pre riding it later this summer I'm sure.


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Typical houses in this area




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Who knew the Quebec government was on board with the TCAT :rofl


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Depending on the season you should be careful for snowmobiles or logging trucks



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The roads in this area consist primarily of sand with round rocks.


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This park is in an area known as the Gatineau Hills. The roads are fun and twisty and won't disappoint.


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deadly99

Explorer
After a while the route says to hang a left, the road quickly disappeared and we were left driving through some small sand dunes. Eventually they ran out and we were presented with a wall of forest with no visible trail going into it. Again the two wheel drive came to haunt me, it was fine with momentum but didnt like stopping in the deep stuff. Another tug from Rob and we made ouor way back to the road we came in on.


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About 2 km's back there was a turn off to the left, we decided to head back to it and see where it led. It brouoght us back onto the intended route after a few dozen km's.


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We did a bit of poking around while we were there. There are a ton of lakes and places to camp....I wouldnt choose this one spot though


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I presume it means this camp site is for shooting bears?


Here is one that is more appropriate, it even had the remains of an old rock chimney on it, a beatiful lake and whatnot.


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(waypoint taken for this spot and wiull be included on the gps files)



We pushed on at a leisurly pace, taking photo's and whatnot


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Eventually we came to the town of Mont Laurier and purchased some last minute forgotten supplies from the local grocery store. We decided to keep heading north, it was about 5-6 pm at this point, the goal was to find somewhere cool to camp before 7. The route follows some pavement for 30 minutes or so before getting back onto gravel. keep in mind I speak zero french, well maybe a few buzz words like beer and whatnot but practically nothing. We're driving along and there is an abondoned house with a stack of firewood in the fron yard and a bright sign saying privee. Long story short is privee does not mean free firewood! Busted as a car came flying up to use after I'd loaded the truck.....10 bucks setlled the deal and away we went.


The gravel started on a road called the Chemin Du Parent. Its a 190 km gravel highway to the small town of Parent. Fun and fast driving was had as we bagan scouring for somewhere to camp for the night. There were not alot of options as the forest is quite thick. Voila! The prefect spot. I nudge my front wheel into the lane leading off the road and we wait for Rob. There's Rob about 3000 yards down the road so we pull in assuming he had seen us. Well he hadn't (assume he was playing with the gps). About a hundred yards from where we pulled off was a another road shooting off into the bush. V and myself were out of truck walking around before we realized Rob wasnt with us. ****** did he pass by this place and not see us or did he turn down that other road to check it out.

We wait.......15 minutes later we are perplexed, what to do? Is he behind us or in front of us? It's getting dark in a hurry and we're a hundred clicks in eiother direction from any form of civilization.
 

deadly99

Explorer
Right on cue the clouds roll in, the rain becomes hard enough to warrant the wipers on full. So with lightning flashing all around the conversation began. If he is behind us would he stop and camp by hyimself in this weather? if he is front of us would he think we are total ******** heads and not stop for hours on end? Is he behind us and had a flat or something? Is he racing in front of us and missed a corner and should we be checking the ditches?

The next town (Parent) was about a hundred km's away. We decided to head that way and camp on the side of the road in town. We figured he was eithewr going to be there when we showed up or he'd pass through it in the morning if he continues following the gps tracks we had. An hour later and we see Rob pulled off to the side of the road.

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Happy smiles all around and alot of where were you, ah I see, I thought....


We decided to find a camp location as soon as possible as the lifght was fading. There are not a lot of spots to choose from so we picked a gravel pit. Scenery wise gravel pits lack scenery but they offer room top park, a flat surface for tents and typically have less bugs than in the bush or beside a body of water. Shortly after stopping the rain stopped and clouds lifted, this provided an hour ro so of decent light to setup camp and cook up some grub.

I should mention that Rob is the most prepared person I have ever travelled with, I mean it. he has everything including the kitchen sink. Gazebo? yep Stove? Yep Table cloth? Yep Every piece of recovery equipment known to man? YEP Me.....well I forgot shoes and clothes :roflOne pair of pants and flip flops dont mix with being stuck in the mud...ah well live and learn..... again.

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What do people sitting in a gravel pit talk about after the typical "did you see that", "remember when" conversations are over ? Bears and bear attacks of course.

Around 2 am I wake up to the sound of sniffing right beside my head, then the sound of gravel crunching as something walked around to the other side of my tent and more sniffing! Heart not beating, lungs not moving I very quietly sit up so no part of me is within 2 feet of the tent walls. What to do? I grab my flash light and decide to head out to scare off whatever it is thats out there...and get close enough to the truck to get inside to safety. So there I am in my boxers (not a pretty site on a good day) and I sprint 30 feet towards my truck while scanning around the truck for signs of a bear. I spin around and start scanning the camp site and just as the scan gets close to my tent the light goes very dim then dies. So now here I am standing in the dark and to be perfectly honest I was very freaked out. Sleep in the truck...wake up the others....I decide to go back to bed and ignore the heart pounding adenaline rush. No easy means falling back alseep after this. Lesson learned....bring spray on butter next time and lube up someones elses tent as the screams will give me a fighting chance to get out of my tent :wink:
 

deadly99

Explorer
So we woke up and did the breakfast and repack thing and hit the road. On a side note the trucks enable you to bring more stuff but this also means more to upack and pack. Like all things in life its a trade off.

There was a nice section of the Chemin Du Parent left to travel first thing.


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The town of Parent is small town that seems to serve all the fishing and hunting lodges in the area. two gas stations, a small store and a motel/restaurant are what seemed to be available. This is a pretty remote town and the people seemed colorful.

We filled up with gas

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Then drove over to grab a coffee and use the restaurants facilities. There were some nice folks there who helped us plot our route. The intended route I had mapped out on the computer was quickly discarded and a new plan was hatched. The old timers told of us of a "new road" that has been built in the last year and would bring us to a town called Chibougamau. I was intending to get the route to a town called Poisson Blanc to meet Fabs section but this town is relatively close and hopefully we'll get the two end points connected in August when I'll be back up that way.

Now please keep in mind that these directions were anything but perfect :rofl Its 168 km to the turn, no its 148. Make sure you dont turn by the fallen tree but rather wait for the big rock. This kind of "locals knowledge" is...well it makes for fun exploring.

Exiting town you see this sign, based on our locals route we knew we were on the right track :D


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Youll notice that not one of these are towns nor does any of them offer fuel :deal Filling up in Parent is mandatory for any exploring to the north.

The roads heading north were more of the same, big gravel highways. Tons of fun and decent speeds meant we could get some good mileage done.

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About a hundred km's down the road we peeled off to see the town of Clova. This small, in the middle of nowhere town, seems to exist because of the rail station. There is gas available and a small restaurant. The town is situated on a lake and it appears as if every one of the approximately 40 residents owns a plane. Suppose you'd have to as its a few hundred km's of dusty, bumpy gravel to get to any town of any decent size.



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After visiting what there was to visit we backtracked to find the intersection that would put us back on the locals track. Here is the interesection we were told to turn off at, after this we were told to turn left at the chip wagon? then follow that road, it'll get bumpy then smooth then your there :rofl


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A lot of fancy signs for fishing lodges..the small hand written one caught my eye as they sell fuel.

Worth mentioning that Rob speaks very decent French. Good and bad for us as he could find out much more info than we would have otherwise been able to, the bad is that I use these trips to Quebec to finely hone my charades skills.

An hour later we found the chip wagon


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A seemingly nice lady lives out here and runs this business. You dont need to worry about line ups or crowds at the till :smile

She does sell gasoline soa fill up was done. When asked about the road she wasnt sure about it. Hmmm.....surely this is the road you'd use to get anywhere? Well she had some hand written instructions she passed on to us :thumb

So here we are, 187 km gravel to Parent, another 100 or so km's gravel to the chip stand and what looked like another few hundred km's of gravel ahead of us. hells bells baby this is rocking for the TCAT. Long remote gravel roads that bring you to places few get to see. PERFECT :deal

The next section was about 200 km's of gravel, no technical challenges to speak of but the scenery was excellent, the road was nice and twisty with lots of hills. The surface is similar to other renmote roads up north in Quebec. A sandy surface and the roads have been built up with deep ditches. The sand can get thick in spots creating moments for bikes. The sand also creates legendary dust trails :D Wooden bridges and a few small murder towns along the way. Whats a murder town? Well let me tell you, these small little clusters of houses (presume owned by natives) in the middle of nowhere, very run down and usually with a dead looking dog on the porch. Here's a good example


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These little towns arent somewhere I'd go for my vacation but to each their own :freaky I recall quoting the saying "squeal like a caribou" for a ride we did on the TT a couple of years ago and given this is to far south for caribou...perhaps "squeal like a beaver" is what I'd be afraid of hearing in the middle of the night if one was to choose this town as a place to spend the night. Visions of a beatup pickup truck with the box full of whiskey drunk idiots pulling up in front of your tent isn't hard to imagine :nod No one seems to live in these small murder towns, suppose they are only used during the various hunting seasons or something. Dont take my word for it though, feel free to use them as a camp spot.....I look forward to hearing your tales when and if you get back home :rofl



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This photo best sums up this section of road. Nice views and no one around for hundreds of km's in every direction. Stopping anywhere along this road really leaves you with that "holy crap are we out there" kind of feeling. I've ridden the Trans Lab, Trans Taiga, etc and this one is a real gem that surpases those in my opinion. Most of the other big ones up north have a lot of commercial traffic on them. This road isn't like those ones, its starts and ends in the middle of nowhere. Logging is very active in the area but the area is so damn huge that you dont see folks for hours at a time. These roads do not show up on maps and have no names. Given that this one is so long we decided Rob could give it an appropriate label for the sake of the TCAT and the guidebook :nod A road that goes for hundreds of km's deserves a title, and this is going to be ..........

:lurk


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deadly99

Explorer
The "unnamed" road was a hoot. Fast and fun with great views. I was stoked that we didnt get stumped on our route plans as I have in the past. This pretty much finishes the Labrador and Quebec portions of the TCAT. Ontario is "almost" complete with a few missing pieces to the puzzle that folks are intending to try this summer. After Mike gets NFLD finished the eastern half of the TCAT will be 99% complete. I suspect by this fall it will be finished and I can start writing this winter to get that half of the guidebook complete :thumb

Just before getting to the highway outside of Chibougamau is a huge lumber mill. HUGE lumber mill with what would seem an unlimited amount of wood at their disposal from what we saw.


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Aired up the tires before hitting the pavement


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Found a campground that evening, enjoyed a good meal and a few beers. The lake was nice to get the dust out of your hair although it proved a bit too cold for me to have a full soak.


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The next morning we decided to just bomb back towards home on the pavement. The weather looked scetchy and time was of a concern (family and work). I'd downloaded a TV series called King of Thrones. V and myself enjoyed a few hours of watching episodes one and two. Hooked the ipad to the aux outlet on the stereo and enjoyed a relaxing drive.

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Late afternoon we got to Vendre Parc. Not like other parks this one is a gravel travel wonder. Fun sandy/rocky roads where you could easily cover a few hundred km's. Nice campsites, etc. I have a feeling I'll be using this parc again....maybe next years Roaming Rally :deal Here's a few pics from that afternoon and the next morning. Since it was a Sunday night the place was empty and the roads begged for some Dakar driving. Kudo's to my buddy V who didnt scream or freak out once. Its easy to drive fast, its hard to sit in the navagators seat and keep a level head. An absolutly fun time was had for an hour or so :nod


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Big wheels for big trucks, gotta love the north country


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Well thats it for another chapter in the making of story. Next trip begins in 2-3 weeks and I can't wait to get back on my bike and head east again. Next trip is to ride the TNE across New Brunswick and the Gaspe Bay penninsula. A fwellow adv'er is planning to meet me in NB and ride for a few days then I'll meet Fab on the Gaspe where we'll finish riding the Gaspe, ferry across the St Lawrence River to a town called Baie Comeau. This town is where the Trans Labrador Highway ends and fab's section of the TCAT picks up. It'll head to where this ride report ended and it does double duty as a large piece of the TCAT as well as the TNE (True North east) route.

I believe I finally found the source of all my aggrevasion with my bike, seals were gone on the generator cover which in turn was puking oil out the crank case vent into my airbox. Fingers crossed the problem is solved as its been a frustrating year trying to keep the big beast running.

Ross is out exploring the section of the TCAT he has created across BC, Chris has plans to ride a section he created in Alberta, Mike seems to be MIA but hopefully will have some news from NFLD, David seems to have a solid grasp on his section of the TCAT on Van Isle, Fab's section should get finished in August and he and I have been hard at work creationg the new web site we plan to launch this fall. Anthony is patiently waiting for me to get my *** in gear and start some writing for the guidebook (sorry the web site has been soaking up the bulk of my free time at work). I'll have a lot of tracks ready for Kelly to start making maps for the guidebook soon. A few folks have volunteered to pre ride different sections of the TCAT, much appreciated.

All in all I am still amazed at how this is all coming together. Thanks to everyone involved in the project.

:freaky




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deadly99

Explorer
Rob's version

Here is Rob's version of the trip


My adventure actually started in Wednesday. I had last driven my truck 2 weeks prior and parked it in the garage. I had to change an O2 sensor, and set about working on that, but that little job went all SNAFU on me, so it ended up taking a long time to do. I finally finished it on Tuesday night, and drove the truck to work on Wednesday. Went shopping at noon, and discovered I have a sticky/siezed right rear brake caliper. Wendesday night I was supposed to be packing so I could leave for Ottawa after work on Thursday, but now I had to fix the truck. On the drive home, the caliper got hot enough that the RR brake was pulsing and grabby, and when I pulled into my driveway, the brake was smoking.

Took it apart, and found mud packed in the caliper. Not enough that I thought it would cause a problem, but who knows. I cleaned it, greased the pins, cleaned under the dust boot, put it back together, test drove it, all good. Stayed home Thursday morning to pack. Thursday, I get to work after noon, the brake and wheel are hot again. Great. I suspected I put too much grease in the guide pin bores which was pushing the outside pad against the rotor. Took the thing apart again in the parking lot after work to fix that. I called around to see if I could get a new caliper in Ottawa on Friday, but the warehouses were closed. I set off for Ottawa, hoping for the best. I was NOT going to cancel this weekend, I've been planning it too long!

I stopped a couple times and the brake was still getting hot. But I figured if I didn't touch the brakes, they'd wear themselves down and stop dragging. So I kept coasting to a stop on the shoulder of the 401 to check and make sure the brake wasn't going to catch fire. It got cooler and cooler as I went, according to my plan. As long as I didn't need to use the brakes between Belleville and Ottawa, I'd be OK.

Friday morning, got up at 7 and started calling parts places. I called all the big places, pulled a few strings, and the soonest I could see a caliper was Monday! Friggen Land Rovers. The worst is the way those guys snicker when you say you need parts for a Land Rover.

I decided to try servicing the caliper AGAIN. I did so, and this time squirted a little light oil under the dust boot to lubricate the piston. Cleaned and regreased the pins and bores again. And hatched a plan to disable that caliper if we had to. Since the hose attached via banjo bolt to the caliper, I figured all I needed was a plain bolt, nut and copper washers to plug off the banjo fitting. Should be easy right? That led to a wild goose-chase... I hate shopping at Brafasco in Belleville, and the one in Ottawa is even worse. You'd think a store that specializes in selling fasteners would have competent people, stocked and organized shelves, etc... Took me about an hour to find a couple bolts, nuts and they don't carry copper washers. NAPA doesn't have them either? Finally Partsource (quickly becoming my favorite parts store) had a blister pack of copper washers in the HELP! section.

But, while driving around, it became aparent that my caliper was now working perfectly! In fact, that brake was running cooler than the other side!

Now on to the fun parts. But first off, communications. We had none. I had a CB, Ted didn't. I brought some old FRS radios, but we needed batteries, and too much chaos with the brakes we forgot to pick them up. Yeah yeah, this is sounding like a gong show, but it gets better, I promise.

We arrive at the ferry crossing in Cumberland Ontario. $9/car, and they're smaller boats, hold about 9-12 cars each, they run a rapid service with 3-4 boats circulating constantly. The small boats move around while you're driving on them, leading to a queasy feeling, but it was fun as I don't use a ferry often.



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Once we arrived in Buckingham, Qc, we headed north. After a few secondary highways, we turned onto "Old Buckingham Creek Road", or something like that. One thing I've learned over the years, is that whenever a road is called "Old <insert name here> Road", you're in for some interesting times. It usually means "this is the road the settlers used 200 years ago, we've since built a highway and this path is now abandoned." And that's exactly what we had.

Now, this was my first time out with a 2wd truck. I've heard stories about how they are suprisingly capable, as long as you hit things with some speed. And Ted's truck is set up for speed what with the long-travel suspension, etc. I think he has even more ground clearance than my truck. The road went through the bush, and got rougher as we went. Ted stops and they get out because they see a sign for a narrow bridge, so we walk down the hill to scout it out. It was a long way down, but the bridge looked fine, just a single lane wide. I always find this funny, that the government makes the effort to put these metal signs out in the bush, in this case to warn us about this narrow bridge. The bridge was the best part of this goat path! The whole trail is one lane wide (or less), but they have to warn us about this one-lane bridge.

Anyway, fairly long descent to the bridge, and then a climb up the other side. Here's where I finally put it in low range. Ted stops, concerned about some mud up ahead. "Just keep your speed up, you'll make it", I say. Looked like totally not a big deal to me. Up around another corner, and Ted's stuck. His truck appears to have 1 wheel drive, and that wheel is now smooth like a chocolate covered donut. Hmmm... I get out the yank strap, wrap a tree strap around his bumper and pull him out. Hardly took any effort at all. At this point, we decided to abandon this trail. It might make a good optional technical section, but given Ted is having this much trouble, and this is "dry" season, guys on big BMW bikes aren't going to have much fun trying to get up this hill. It highlights the difference between vehicle capabilities, something a lot of people don't understand because most people only participate in one sport. Here, I haven't even locked in 4wd yet (while pulling another truck) but bikes would struggle. I know, however, that in other places, I'd be plodding along at 10-20mph in the truck, while Ted would blast over the same road at 50mph on his KTM, throwing a roost and wheeling over the hill.

Anyway, now we're going backwards down hill on a muddy track, I'm pulling Ted's truck most of the way and we need to turn around, but the trail is way too narrow. We back all the way down to the bridge, and I actually have to take my truck down into the river onto a gravel spit to find enough room, then drive back up onto the bridge. Ted turned around by backing his truck into the bush, better turning radius helped him here. At least now we're all going forward, and he's behind me so I can easily pull him, as we have to go back up the hill out of the ravine to get out. We talked about keeping going forward to the end of the trail, but with me ahead of Ted but decided not too, good thing as a local told us there was a locked gate at the other end.

I've contemplated taking bolt cutters along as that type of thing pisses me off. This is legally a road. There's a way in, with no indication you can't get out the other way. Probably one local wants to go fishing down in the river, another doesn't want through traffic, so some yokel goes and builds a gate on government land at one end of this "road".

Anyway, here's Ted's truck emerging from that trail.

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At this point, we decide that since it's 1pm, and we've gotten NOWHERE due to a late start, and now this, that we'll run the highway up towards Mont Laurier. This section is close to Ottawa, so easy for Ted to come back on his bike and figure this out.

After a quick lunch stop beside a river, we hit the road again, but about halfway to Mont Laurier, Ted suggested we find our way back onto the intended route through Papineau Labelle park, so off we go. That works out well, and we're not on some really nice gravel roads.



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We saw a few of these signs. Interesting. If you need an ambulance, come to this intersection. Um... OK. No emergency phone. No cell phone reception. No indentifier of where you are. Not sure what purpose this sign serves.




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What does this mean? This road is for snowmobiles and logging trucks only?





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deadly99

Explorer
Along the route through the park, we get to an area where the intended route gets a little wonky. I knew this wasn't looking right, but Ted wanted to check it out. I come over a small sand dune, and here's what I see.



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Yeah, that whole "2wd can get through a lot if you keep your momentum" doesn't work out so well when you have to stop because trees have grown over the road.

Get out the tow strap again, and pull him out of here, but he keeps getting stuck. My first time in deep sand, but it's true what they say, once you've broken the crust, the sand is weaker. So you can't go back over your own tracks. But in this case, we had to. I'm pulling Ted, but I was also worried that I myself am going to get bogged down, then we're really screwed. There are not large trees in range of the winch. I do have my as-yet untested SmittyBilt WASP Land Anchor.... it was negatively reviewed in Expo, but I take anything from there with a grain of salt...

Luckily, the mighty Land Rover doesn't have any trouble. Putting away my tow strap, I find somehow a knot got in it, and now it's a solid knuckle that will probably never come undone, and the strap is weakened. Bummer. Hope we don't need that again. I also find that I've partially yanked Ted's front bumper off the frame. The previous owner didn't install it very well.

I figure out where the road really is, and off we go up the gravel roads through the park.

Somewhere along the way, something on the left hand side tweaks my interest... In these types of areas in Ontario and Quebec, there are about an infinite number of lakes and rivers. May sound like you could set up camp anywhere, but what I've learned is small lakes all have swampy shores. You have to keep your eyes out for a big lake for camping. There were tons of side roads throughout the park going towards little lakes. Those are for fishermen. But here, I saw there was a big lake on the GPS, and not one, but TWO sideroads heading into the same spot, and I saw a clearing out of the corner of my eye. Stop, backup, and... VOILA. Awesome camping spot.

It appears like it gets a lot of use, as there was even an outhouse, campfire ring, unused firewood scattered around, and a chimnea. A chimnea, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, connected to nothing. Cool!




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There's even a picnic table.




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As best we could figure, there used to be some sort of shelter, like a pavillion here. You can see the marks where the roof was near the top of the chimnea. They must have taken down the structure at some point, but the chimnea looked in great condition. Overall, it looked like an unofficial-official camping spot. Good condition, not overused, no garbage strewn around like you often see.




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This place even has a path to the lake.





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The lake is a fair size, and while there's isn't really a beack, the bottom is somewhat sandy with just a bit of grass.




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Finally, a nice river along the way.





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deadly99

Explorer
We arrived in Mont Laurier, and I wanted to stop at a grocery store to pick up some lunch meat and buns I had forgotten because of the brake fiasco. The town looks pretty nice. Really nice, compared to other places in this area. The other thing that struck me while ordering from the deli counter, was these people speak proper French!

My French education was at a school near Montreal, and I had a really snooty teacher who kept preaching about "Proper French". I never really got it at the time, in fact, I hated French class. But, as I got older and used my French more, and married a French girl, as hard as I try I just CANNOT understand what they're saying most of the time. The dialect west of Montreal and down in and around Ontario... it's like trying to understand somebody speaking English down in the deep south. They're talking English, but you just can't get it. The first time I realized that it wasn't just me who failed to learn French properly was one day at Ford when I met another engineer from France, and we held an in-depth technical discussion in French, and I had no problem!

Anyway, I find it curious that everybody I spoke to in Mont Laurier had more of a France dialect. For the most part, that was true for all the areas up north. It wasn't until Monday, coming down south when I got into Maniwaki and stopped for lunch and I found I could no longer converse well enough to place my order.

After leaving the store, we talked about finding a campground near town for the night as it was about 4PM, and we were about to hit a long stretch of remoteness until the next little town of Parent. I wanted to make more miles, since I felt guilty about wasting so much time that morning with the brake problem, and I wanted to keep to the schedule required to complete the route we had mapped out. But, the other two wanted to stop at the first decent place we found, so that was the plan. But, we didn't find much on the way out of Mont Laurier along the route. Eventually pavement turned into an *excellent* gravel road, the road to Parent. We did see one nice unofficial camping spot, but there was another large family already set up there, so we continued. There were lots of little side trails, but you couldn't see anything, and we weren't about to start checking out every one.

Ted was running up ahead, and I followed far enough behind that I wasn't eating his dust. At some point, I realized I hadn't even seen any of his dust for quite some time. His truck does handle these fast dirt roads much better than mine, so I figured he must just be that far ahead. But after about 30 minutes with no sign of him... I started getting concerned. I had a pang of fear and guilt... knowing that sometimes I don't pay enough attention while fiddling with my GPS. Had I passed him? Maybe I should stop. But what if he is ahead? I'll fall further behind.

I don't actually know Ted that well yet. Was he upset about the wasted time in the morning? Am I driving too slow? Maybe he's just going to run all the way up to Parent? Would he REALLY just drive this far without stopping to make sure I'm still behind? Or did I somehow not see him and now he's behind me? Should I stop? Continue driving? Drive fast? Slow? I had no idea what to do, so I decided to just continue at my normal pace. Worst case, I get to Parent. If they're there, great. If not, I'll park out somewhere obvious and they'll find me that night, or in the morning.

Another 30 minutes pass. The sky is dark, and it starts to rain.

What if they crashed off the road down an embankment somewhere? We're in the middle of nowhere, nobody will find them.

Lightning starts to flash and the rain comes down harder. Well, now for sure I'm not stopping to set up camp all alone somewhere, I'm going through to Parent.

I stopped at this major intersection, make sure I am going the right way.




IMG_7508.jpg





I check for tracks from Ted's truck. His tires are distinctive, and he often roosts his way through corners. Nothing. Frack. Should I go back? No, the only logical thing to do is continue on to Parent.

I find an actual official RV campground. Quick check in there for Ted. Nope. But now it's more time off the road. What if Ted was behind, and now is ahead again?

The rain and lightning gets worse. I stop to turn my snorkel head backwards so I'm not injesting water into the airbox. I hear a distant rumble, then see 4 lights in the distance.

TED!

It's about 8 PM by this point, getting dark, we're still almost an hour outside of Parent, and no idea what we'll find when we get there. Along the way, we pass a new Toyota minivan on the side of the road. I stop to see if he needs help. He tells me his engine overheated. Weird. Says another truck has already gone to Parent to send a towtruck down and they don't need help, so we continue. Ted eventually picks a gravel pit to set up camp. I'm a bit skeptical, but whatever... It's flat, drains well, no bugs.

I'm out of my element though. I'm used to camping in a clearing in a bush, or near a beach. Now we're in a lunar landscape. Sometime after 10PM, I see a flatbed towtruck heading south in the direction of that minivan. That's a long wait...

While cooking supper, Ted says "Hey, did you hear about that bear attack out west? Bear killed 4 people, 1 guys survived. He said it just sat on him, pinning him in his sleeping bag while it ate his legs. Well, goodnight!"

I've also heard Ted tell people his pre-active method for dealing with bears is to slip hotdogs underneath everybody else's tent. He's just joking though, right?

I didn't get much sleep that night. I think I was up until 4AM. At some point in my sleep deprived delirium, I hear footsteps in the gravel, and what sounded to me breathing/snorting. Is that just the wind rustling the tent fly? One of the two other guys? Or a bear? Should I keep my bear spray inside my bag? How do you spray a bear when you're inside a tent? Eventually I fall asleep, clutching my by big knife... and awake way too early at 6:30AM.




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The next day, we're on the road just after 9. But again, I'm afraid I'm holding up the other two, because I've got to repack so much stuff. Before we left, I asked Ted where he's putting all his gear. 2 guys in a Ford Ranger, with a big tire in the bed. My SUV was full of gear, and I'm just one guy! Ted's response was simply "LOL!". What's that mean?

I think Ted forgot he was in a truck. Friday morning he revealed he only had flipflops, forgot his shoes at home. Two shirts, his stove, tent, a chair and a few odds and ends. That's about it.

I had work clothes, lightweight synthetic clothes, shorts, rain jacket and pants, stove, tent, sleeping pad, pillow, 5 gallons of water, 3-way powered cooler, a box full of odd's n' ends for camping including about 6 lights, a fully stocked bug-out bag, large first aid kit, full bag of tools, recovery gear, land anchor, 12V air compressor, axe, shovel, chainsaw, reflective triangle, full replacement fluids for the entire truck, spare ECU, fuel pump.... Eezi-Up awning, laptop, 4 cameras... chair, folding camp kitchen, wash tub...



Somewhere on the way to Parent I saw this sign.




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deadly99

Explorer
This just cracks me up. Middle of nowhere, but if you need a VERY specific oil for a 2 stroke motor, this guy has you covered!

We arrive in the town of Parent, and it's even smaller than I thought. It pretty much only exists because the train runs through. Only industry appears to be servicing travellers and the Outfitters in the area. We stop to use the bathroom, and buy some coffee out of guilt even though I've already had 2. We try to get directions from the locals. I ask the waitress, but she doesn't know... there's only 3 roads in and out of this place, and she doesn't know where 2 of them go. She takes us outside where some men are gathered at the patio. One guy talking to me in french, one guy in bad english talking to Ted, none of their instructions are clear, or make sense, or agree. Great! Ted decides to abandon his route up to Poisson Blanc. I was surprised by this, but this is when Ted tells me there isn't actually anything IN Poisson Blanc, it's literally just a point on a map. We'll follow the misdirection these guys gave us towards the only thing they agree on: There's a new, good, gravel road going north of Reservoir Gouin towards Chibougamau.

Parent does have gas, and surprisingly it's not that expensive. When we pulled into the gas station, it's like everybody is on "African Time", if you know what that's like. Both sides of the pump are blocked, guy filling up his truck, then his boat. On the other side of the pump, there's a Ford Explorer that won't start. They don't push it out of the way. They're playing under the hood. Dead battery, guess he pulled in for gas, then it wouldn't restart. They take the battery out of a boat and attempt to jump it. *CLICK*. That's not good. I think about helping him by jumping from my running truck. But, this far in nowhere land, self-preservation takes over. I'm guessing the battery in the truck died from all the vibration from driving on these roads, fused plates. He's just as likely to fry my alternator if I hook up. They're going to have to pull it, because no amount of jump starting is going to get that truck running. They do all this, still blocking the pump.

Finally we fuel up, I buy batteries for the FRS radio, and off we go. Luckily, I had prepared a route from Parent to Clova, and we are following that route. There are side roads everywhere for logging, but the main road is obvious. Somewhere we pass an Astro van on the side of the road. Only... it's upside down. Wheels are gone. Windows gone. And it's full of bullet holes. Obviously some poor Overlander who hadn't bought the right brand of expedition approved lug nuts for his wheels. See, look what happens...



The FRS radios prove practically useless. They only work when we're in visual range. Funny, I remember them working better than this... Must be just getting old. I was going to get a new set of fancy GMRS radios on Thursday, but I had brake trouble...

In my sleep deprived state, I get confused about where we're going. Instead of taking the fork towards "Patate Gouin", I take us into Clova. Interesting town anyway. The VIA train stops in Clova 3 times a week.




IMG_7522.jpg





My home town is RIGHT on the line between Montreal and Toronto, but I can't get the train to stop in my town (10,000 people). This town, population 50, has regular train service. In fact, apparently you can request the train to stop ANYWHERE along the route between Parent and Senneterre.

They've got wolves running free in town.



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:)



The store.


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The town appears to run off generators. There's a large white shipping container in town, with two huge fuel tanks beside it, emitting a humming noise, and wires coming out. Remote.

The town is home to Air Tamarac. They fly down to pick up passengers in Montreal and bring them to Reservoir Gouin. Or, you can take the train to Clova, and they'll fly you out into the reservoir for fishing. Or, they'll take you even further up north. There were about 6 float planes, business must be good, all of them in beautiful condition. I think they had two deHaviland Beavers, THE iconic Canadian Bush plane.




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Back on the road out of Clova, back to the intersection that will lead us to Patate Gouin. What is Patate Gouin, and why is it a landmark? Good question, and I don't have a good answer. I saw exactly 1 dwelling anywhere within a 50 km radius. And as luck would have it, that guy is picking up a pizza while we're there!

I go into the store and ask the lady behind the bar for directions. We're trying to go up to Chibougamau. She has no map. She pulls out notebook with some distances scribbled down. In pencil. "Chibougamau, 220 km" she says. "Which way?" That way, pointing back at the intersection.

Back outside, Ted is nervous to hear the news. He's just about half a tank, and we have 200+km to go, IF we don't get lost. Luckily, Patate Gouin sells gas. $1.60/L for regular ($6/gal). Good news though. You can pump gas, sit on the crapper, and clean your windshield all at the same time.




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I have 10 gallons of gas on the back of my truck so I decide to risk it an not fill up.

I think somebody lives in this thing:





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Snowmobile trail groomer I guess.





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Wait, how did that Sunfire get there?

Back out on the road, we keep heading north. At first we're following the route I had planned between Clova and Poisson Blanc. But it's rough. 200km of this?! They said this road was good! What have we gotten ourselves in for?

After about 50km or so, the road changes. It becomes a gravel superhighway. Starts running straighter, and smoother than some paved roads in Quebec. Eventually it diverges from my planned route. I can see the old roads down below. Now we're making time, travelling at 80-100km/h.

IMG_7572.jpg




The road does look new. Sometime within the past year. It starts to run almost straight as an arrow towards Chibougamau. We realize we've discovered a new road for overland travel through this large expanse of nothingness. 500km of gravel from Mont Laurier up to Chibougamau, almost linking up with the famous Route du Nord. Ted leaves it up to me to name it. I must think of a proper name.



IMG_7585.jpg





Somewhere along the way, there is a bridge over a river with a weight limit sign on it. It has a pictogram of a logging truck with the marking "200T". HOLY $#%@&!!!

As we approach Hwy 113, a mountain of logs comes into view. The scale is staggering.




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40-60 feet long and stacked 20 feet high, the road is lined like this for over 1 km.




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I left Ted behind a bit while I filmed it. I stopped for pictures. Eventually I hear a faint rumble, and then a rattling clanky squeaking noise approaching, like a mechanical beast approaching. It reminds me of a WWII movie, soldiers holed up in a blasted out building, as German Panzer tank approaches and turns the corner...

Only it's a Ford Ranger. Somewhere along the way, Ted's truck has picked up a few noises.

Attempt at an artistic shot that Photobucket compression is killing.




IMG_7610.jpg





Amazingly, this depot is the smaller of two that we pass. There's a larger one near an industrial building, not sure if it's a sawmill or what. Logs are piled 50 feet high here.

Across the road from the lumber yard appears to be an indian reservation.




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I just love saying it. Try it yourself. 3 times fast.



We didn't go into the town, but after doing some research at home, I'm sorry we didn't. It actually looks very interesting. Appears to be a "successful" reserve. Prosperous, innovative, and permanent. They present an interesting history revealing typical white mismanagement. They claim to have never been conquered militarily, nor signed any agreement. They were living happily until 70 years ago when, unannounced, Quebec companies moved up and just started cutting down all their trees.

http://www.ouje.ca/

Their town features a sawdust fired community heat generating plant.

http://www.alaskawoodheating.com/ouje_district.php

Their buildings are solidly built, and architecturally designed to reflect their culture.




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deadly99

Explorer
We decide to burn some pavement and head down to Reserve Faunique de la Verendrye, the second half of my intended route. (So far, very little of our route has followed what we intended).

We drive through Chapais, a proper little town. They have gas, groceries, and beer. We ask about a campground, and are told there is a nice one a little west of town. Perfect. After last night, I needed a proper campground, increase my odds at not being the unlucky sod who get's eaten by a bear. And hopefully Ted doesn't have enough hotdogs to go around.

We pull into the place, I think it was called Camp Opemiska or something like that. Pretty nice place, but REALLY heavy on the RV's. Ted, Ian and I are the only ones not in a hard-sided trailer. Great. I pay extra for electricity so I can plug in my cooler. I forgot the propane connector for it, so I couldn't power it last night and it warms up fast. The owner has to run an extension cord to the pole, and it won't reach back to my site. He tells me to leave my cooler outside. It'll be fine. He promises they don't have any bears, or racoons. Only skunks. Great.

We pulled in around 5, and it was nice to relax, cook a nice dinner, sit around the fire, and hit the bed early. I slept well.

The next morning, we hit the road again. About 3-4 hours of pavement down to Verendrye.






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We pass a number of "towns", but there's litterally nothing there. Just points on the map. Level-sur-Quevillon is an actual town, but we don't see much of it. Finally we reach the north office of Verendrye, about 2-3pm. I don't really understand it, as "Reserve Faunique" means nature preserve, but there are about 500 campgrounds, they offer hunting, fishing, and an indian reservation, etc. Whatever. We decide to take an interior campground, Baie Mazo. It is a small cluster of 6 campsites deep, deep into the park. There is nobody else there that night. Perfect. The check in is incredibly long however. Took about 1 hour total.

We drive in, through the indian reservation, and across a dam.




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The road is ROUGH. I stop to let more air out of the tires and Ted continued up ahead.

You *could* take a minivan on the road, but I don't recommend it.




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I stop to check out a cluster of campsites, Baie Baker or something like that. They don't look good. One road into a lake, small rough sites on the side of that road, two of them just on either side of a boat launch. Not good.

Back on the road, and I hope Ted hasn't come back looking for me...

The road gets better, and it's fast and flowing... like a rally road. The urge is irresistable. I can see sand spray marks from Ted's tires so it looks like he's having fun too.

Finally I pull into our spot. It's PERFECT. Nice sized camping spots. The one I chose is really rocky, so I move to another. Nobody around so who cares. There's an outhouse, and it doesn't even smell. Trail leading down to the lake. A boat launch further down. We all go for a swim, but the water is kinda cold so it's quick. The lake is different than any I've seen in this area. The shores are very rocky, and there are stumps sticking out. I realize that this lake is a reservoir, probably flooded not that long ago, maybe 10-20 years. The water has washed the sand out but left the rocks behind, and hasn't yet taken the wood which lies on the beach in places like driftwood. As nasty as it sounds, it's really not. Just different than I'm used to. There are a number of small rocky islands in the lake. We are totally secluded, nobody else around. It looks like an interesting lake to explore by canoe.

Another nice evening in camp, and sleep come easily again.

The next morning, we have about 2 hours on dirt roads to get back out to the highway. We drive down to Le Domaine, fill up with gas and air, and part ways. I know my way back and Ted sort of does, it's pretty straight forward at this point.

We completely abandoned my route from Le Domaine through Lac Dumoine and down to Rapides a Joachim. But I'm OK with that. We've done a LOT of driving, and I've still go another solid 7 hours of slab just to get back home today. We'll save my trip for another time.
 

deadly99

Explorer
Vancouver Island

Cross posted from david who is making the route across Van Isle


Well we spent the weekend running tracks for the TCAT and NI ride and were truly soured when we found one of the best mountain sideloops deactivated and made totally impassable by the forest company... It seems like this spring they have been digging up the roads and bridges like crazy on the Island...



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Once again we tried to get through Kinman pass...





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And found it impassable at 2,900 '




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Paul made a gallant effort but as soon as the snow deepened his back wheel just punched through the hard crust...





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He gave up when the snow got around 2 ' deep..




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Something else to deal with when the snow melts, which won't likely be until August...
 

deadly99

Explorer
Progress

So things are progressing nicely on the route and we're on schedule :ylsmoke:

Ross is currently out routing the Chilcotin region in BC and should have a report in a week or two when he gets back.

I am packing up to hit the road again, a few weeks in NE Quebec and in New Brunswick and the Gaspe Bay for another route we are creating.

Safe travels to everyone, more to report later in August

:smiley_drive:
 

deadly99

Explorer
Manitoba

Chris is heading out soon to explore the proposed route across the province of Manitoba.


I've now got a basic plan in place for the Manitoba stretch of the route. It has a bit more pavement and large gravel roads than I'd like, but it looks pretty good and unfortunately I just don't have the time to explore every nook and cranny of the Province - as much as I'd like to. To give you a rough idea, the route plan is pictured below.

Myself and two others plan to leave Saskatoon the week of August 15th to explore the route through Manitoba. I'm not looking forward to the 1000 km of slab to get to the MB/ON border, but Ted would have to go 2000! I do have to say that Manitoba might be a really nice part of the route, but I'll report more on that once I get back in August.

Looking forward to the riding and comraderie of the ride!


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