CUCV M-1009 Baja Chase/ pit support and Camping Project.

[warrior1]

question on wheels

i see that you are using cadillac wheels on your cucv. did you have to use spacers to get the wheels to sit farther outboard? i have wanted to run the exact same wheel on my 91 burban, but i was afraid the backspacing on those newer wheels would set them to far inboard in the wheelwell. i know you had to bore the centers and thats no problem for me. i just dont want to run spacers to get the wheels out further. yours look fantastic. thanks.

 

[etech]

as for the latches, they are just plastic.

As for the Caddy wheels, Ya we had to bore out the centers of the wheels, and yes, they are not the correct offset. I could not even put lug nuts on on the rear, and the side wall hit the frame.

To offset the wheels back to about stock offset on the blazer you will need 2" spacers on the back and about 1.5 on the front, which loads the wheel bearings in about the same place as the factory wheels.

So yes I run wheel spacers. I never really liked how the rear is a lot narrower then the front. So I set the wheels where I thought they should be and measured... I ended up running 2" up front and 3" rear spacers. I also replaced my factory wheel studs to stronger/longer ARP units, and check the torque on a regular basis. I have raced on decent spacers and have never had any problems. They are really quite safe, ( some may disagree, but as long as you use your head they are fine, people are the cause of most unsafe conditions, as they do not always do what is required, ) as long as you check the torque, every now and again and follow the instillation instructions, they are perfectly safe.

So far No problems to report with the wheel and tire package. The only place I get any rubbing is the drivers side battery bulge on the fender well when turning sharp to the right and hitting bumps. then it rubs just a little.

I decided to use the caddy wheels since, I knew I was going to run 8 lug and did not want to spend a bunch of money on 6 lug wheels that i was not going to keep. I just wish I could find a set of smooth center caps with out the caddy logo.( makes me feel like I should have a purple suede suit, and a gold tooth when driving the truck know what I mean, sorta disco.) Any one have any suggestions for smooth center caps? I got the 6 caddy wheels for about 300 bucks. I was thinking aboutselling them when I get my 8 lug axles mounted.

I'm planning on running Method race wheels when I go to 8 lug, one of our race trucks is sponsored by Method, I just really like their looks, and of course they will be black.

 

[warrior1]

thanks etech, thats exactly what i needed to know. i wasnt critisizing the use of spacers on the wheels. i was just trying to avoid the extra cost of using them. thanks again for the info on the wheels. your info helps me and i know it helps others in their decisions.

 

[etech]

I understand you were not criticizing the wheel spacers. I'm just so used to other forums where some one says they use wheel spacers, and then about 10 other people chime in and say how dangerous they are. I forget that this is a much more professional site, and things like that don't happen here like other forums.
With that said,

Glad I could help. If you shop on ebay you can get decent spacers for not too much. also keep in mind that if you get them, order them for a newer 6 lug chevy, they come with larger metric studs that fit the caddy wheels better.

On another note, you dont have to use ARP studs like i did, ( I just used them since I had them in the garage) just order a set of decent closed top acorn style lug nuts, for the older chevy ( 7/16" studs) , they have wider seats on them and mate to the spacers better for a stronger contact area. or help me find a decent 8 lug front axle and you can have my wheels and spacers. (o;@

 

[etech]

another good and budget friendly option is check summit racing parts, and look up some black rock wheels, you can get a nice looking aluminum 17" wheel for 6 lug, for about 140+/- each. I know a few people that race on the bead lock version ( the bead lock is closer to the 400 bucks each price,) and they hold up well.

here are some pics, I like these wheels, and so far they have proven them self, a lot better then some major name brands...
the first 2 are blackrock 909 style wheels, in black and machine finishes, next is the black rock bead lock, and lastly, Is currently my favorite. the Method race wheel

 

[dieselndixie]

Keep it up man. Im enjoying following. I want to know how the roof rack turns out. I really need one! Where are you going to mount your spare?

pics of my rig.

 

[chilliwak]

Wicked:Wow1:rig Diesel!:drool:

 

[chilliwak]

Bob, ya I found out about that last week. I like San Felipe, I want to try to have my Blazer ready by then, or at least partly ready. I also have to talk Ivan into to going with me in it and leaving big blue home.. we shall see if I can make it happen.

as for Larry Ragland's blazer... I remember that thing, I have a few pics of it.the rear suspension is similar to what I'm planning. the other is just another blazer I really like, but its 2wd. and the last is another cucv, that is nice.

time will tell how crazy I will get with the suspension. I keep telling my self that I need not to make this one crazy. it dose not need to be a pre-runner. Just a very good truck.

Etech, I love the military rig you got going there. Can you give me some details on that rig?

 

[dieselndixie]

thanks...ive got WAY too much time and money in it! I started on the ck5.com forum, and those guys talked me into all sorts of heavy duty offroad upgrades. now a days, all I want to do is travel in it, and its a BEAST to try and drive down the highway. sometimes wish I had a more "road worthy" rig for when I go camping, fishing, exploring. But once you are off the pavement....it WINS.

3/4 ton axle swap, 6" lift, 37" military hmmv radials, fully bedlined interior, and TONS of other mods.

I really like the way the safari / roof rack looks in this thread. And I am just waiting for a few more scratches in the factory paint before I flat black it!

 

[etech]

Etech, I love the military rig you got going there. Can you give me some details on that rig?

The U-10 or M-1009 cucv as its called, comes with a 6.2l true detroit diesel, not gas conversion, and has larger valves in the heads and a better intake then general public 6.2 (and more power and torque) comes with a TH-400 tranny, a 208 transfer case and HD rated 3/4 ton gm 10 bolt axles with a locker in the back, stock tire size is 31" and comes with 3.08 gears.

The truck was designed for remote radio relay and interception. So it has a tough elect system for powering military radios, there is a bus bar on the passenger side wall in the back to quickly hook up more radios. It comes with 2 140 amp ground insulated alternators wired in series for 24vdc electrical, the starter, charging and glow plug system are all 24vdc, the rest of the truck is 12vdc.

You can find them cheap with few miles on them if you look around, got mine from a barstow USMC base auction for around 1200.00 when done and said, and it had 40,000 miles on it. some have only 500 miles on them but look as though at least 1 mile was when it fell out of the back of a C-130, so my point is go and look at them, there are very good ones out there if you know what to look for.

They are not for every one, they have no interior, no A/C, but do have a heater, they vibrate, are very loud, but do get good mileage. EPA rated them for 19 city and 21 highway. with stock tires. I get about 13 to 15 city, and about 15 to 19 freeway ln my 39" tires and a easy foot. best i have gotten on 35's was 24.6 mpg, and 21.4 with 39" tires, worst i have gotten is 11 mpg. using my gps since the speedo is off.

They also make good trucks for waste veggie oil conversions, i have ran a few tanks of 50/50 diesel and veggie oil through it and it loves it. it dose however hate the new dry ultra low diesel sold today. so if you have one and want your injectors and injection pump to last, better add lucas injector cleaner/lube, or 2 stroke oil, or a gallon of veggie oil every fill up or they will not last long, The military has problems with th IP and injectors when running dry JP-8 for fuel.

So to wrap up the specs, If your looking for a tough, go almost anywhere 100% mechanical ( dose not require electrical to run or drive , really only needs it to start) diesel 4x4, thats gets better mileage pulling a jeep then a jeep gets driving, where most parts are at every autopart store in USA and mexico as well as other places in the world, ( turbo kits are available for them too for even more power and torque) that will not brake the bank, will last 400,000+ miles if taken care of, can run on diesel, jet fuel, kerosene, waste oil, tranny fluid, hydraulic fluid, svo and wvo easily, and has a real cool factor, score your self one. with some work they are awesome. Just dont plan on winning to many drag races...

 

[etech]

Keep it up man. Im enjoying following. I want to know how the roof rack turns out. I really need one! Where are you going to mount your spare?

Currently the spare resides in the back behind the rear seat, it hits the back of the seat and touches the tail gate, not much room left. sooner or later I'll have to build a swing out rack for it. I could put it on the roof. but it weighs almost 200 pounds and would be a nightmere to get up and down with out a small crane, also thats a lot of weight up high in a already tall and short truck. So I think a swing out may be the best choice.

 

[dieselndixie]

I hear ya. My spare is in the same spot and will give you a hernia to try and put it back in the back after taking it out. A 37 on a steel wheel is heavy.

 

[chilliwak]

The U-10 or M-1009 cucv as its called, comes with a 6.2l true detroit diesel, not gas conversion, and has larger valves in the heads and a better intake then general public 6.2 (and more power and torque) comes with a TH-400 tranny, a 208 transfer case and HD rated 3/4 ton gm 10 bolt axles with a locker in the back, stock tire size is 31" and comes with 3.08 gears.

The truck was designed for remote radio relay and interception. So it has a tough elect system for powering military radios, there is a bus bar on the passenger side wall in the back to quickly hook up more radios. It comes with 2 140 amp ground insulated alternators wired in series for 24vdc electrical, the starter, charging and glow plug system are all 24vdc, the rest of the truck is 12vdc.

You can find them cheap with few miles on them if you look around, got mine from a barstow USMC base auction for around 1200.00 when done and said, and it had 40,000 miles on it. some have only 500 miles on them but look as though at least 1 mile was when it fell out of the back of a C-130, so my point is go and look at them, there are very good ones out there if you know what to look for.

They are not for every one, they have no interior, no A/C, but do have a heater, they vibrate, are very loud, but do get good mileage. EPA rated them for 19 city and 21 highway. with stock tires. I get about 13 to 15 city, and about 15 to 19 freeway ln my 39" tires and a easy foot. best i have gotten on 35's was 24.6 mpg, and 21.4 with 39" tires, worst i have gotten is 11 mpg. using my gps since the speedo is off.

They also make good trucks for waste veggie oil conversions, i have ran a few tanks of 50/50 diesel and veggie oil through it and it loves it. it dose however hate the new dry ultra low diesel sold today. so if you have one and want your injectors and injection pump to last, better add lucas injector cleaner/lube, or 2 stroke oil, or a gallon of veggie oil every fill up or they will not last long, The military has problems with th IP and injectors when running dry JP-8 for fuel.

So to wrap up the specs, If your looking for a tough, go almost anywhere 100% mechanical ( dose not require electrical to run or drive , really only needs it to start) diesel 4x4, thats gets better mileage pulling a jeep then a jeep gets driving, where most parts are at every autopart store in USA and mexico as well as other places in the world, ( turbo kits are available for them too for even more power and torque) that will not brake the bank, will last 400,000+ miles if taken care of, can run on diesel, jet fuel, kerosene, waste oil, tranny fluid, hydraulic fluid, svo and wvo easily, and has a real cool factor, score your self one. with some work they are awesome. Just dont plan on winning to many drag races...

All that for $1200!?:Wow1: I got to get me one now! All I need is a trip to the USA!

 

[etech]

i dont know if posting items for sale is ok, if not let me know and i'll remove the post. But were going to be clearing out the race shop of our tires from last year to make room for the new tires. we have a total of 46 BF Goodrich projects, some are 35"x12.50"x15r, some are 37x12.50x17r, some are 39x13.50x17r, and wehave about 12 of the new race tires that are 42"x14.50x20r up for grabs. thought id offer them up here first for people that could use a really strong tire. tread ware is brand new to about 85%. all are the kevlar belted race tires. they are available for pick up, shipping and we will be at the off road swap meet at the end of the month at the morango casino in cabazon ca.

 

[brut4s]

What are the prices on the 37's??