DIY Corrugated Plastic Panel Composite Experiments

Alphamacaroon

New member
I've been experimenting with more economical and locally available alternatives to FRP composite panels. One of the materials that has interested me is corrugated plastic panel (the same stuff they make yard signs). I ran an experiment by creating various composite structures, and vacuum bagging them for maximum adhesion. I figured I would share some of the results here in case anyone was interested.

To start, I went to home depot and purchased some run-of-the-mill 3/16" corrugated plastic sheet made of UV stabilized polypropylene. I also purchased some 1" standard pink XPS insulation foam board and some 3M 90 contact adhesive.

Structure 1
For the first structure, I wanted to make a 1" wall entirely out of cross laminated CPP. I cut 6 pieces of CPP into 2"x6" rectangles and alternated the "grain" for each piece. I sprayed both sides with 3M 90 contact adhesive, waited a few minutes for them to tack up, then assembled all 6 layers in an alternating grain pattern. I put them into a small kitchen vacuum sealer and sealed them into a bag to ensure maximum adhesion contact. I waited 12 hours, then opened it up.

IMG_3564.jpg

I had a couple of concerns— 1) I thought that the contact adhesive (being solvent based) would not properly cure in vacuum conditions, and 2) I thought that the pressure of vacuum would crush or deform the corrugated channels.

Results:
  • The glue appears to have cured just fine. I've tried with all my might to delaminate the layers and can't. I've heard that contact adhesive can degrade over time and with heat so maybe it's not a perfect long-term solution, but during the experimentation phase it is seems more than sufficient.
  • There does appear to be a small amount of deformation of the corrugated channels, but it's extremely hard to tell. I put all 275lbs of my weight on to the test panel and did not notice any deformation or buckling in the compression axis.
  • I plan to do more thorough deflection testing on larger samples, but I can barely deflect the wall by trying to break it in half with my fingers and thumbs. Any deflection instantly springs back to true the moment pressure is released.
  • The sample is completely flat and does not show any signs of warping or deformation.
  • The 2"x6" sample weighs 45 grams on my kitchen scale, which works out to roughly 1.191 lbs per square foot.
  • At a cost of about $0.50 per square foot for one sheet of CPP, I can create a roughly 1" thick wall (5 layers) for $2.50 per square foot.
IMG_3569.jpg

Structure 2
For the next structure I wanted to try something that was closer to FRP composite panels, but using the CPP as the outer layer/skin instead of FRP. I followed the same process as the previous structure, but instead of six layers of CPP, I sandwiched the XPS foam between two layers of CPP.

IMG_3565.jpg

Results:
  • I had some concerns that the 3M 90 would melt the XPS, but a few searches online seemed to indicate it would be compatible. It was not. The foam did start to melt, but since contact adhesive doesn't require a large amount to begin with, the melting seemed to be limited to a small amount at the surface. Who knows, it may have even aided in adhesion because I cannot separate the layers even if I try.
  • The sample is not perfectly flat and there does seem to be some deformation in areas. This is almost certainly caused by the incompatible glue melting the underlying XPS, and I'm sure will be eliminated when a better glue is used.
  • The sample appears to be as strong or stronger in the deflection axis.
  • The compression axis is a different story. When squeezed tightly or weight is put on top of it, the foam layer appears to compress. This may be eliminated by experimenting with other types of foam that can be obtained from local sources.
  • The weight for this sample was 21 grams which works out to roughly 0.55 lbs per square foot.
  • With an average cost of XPS foam of $1.50 per square foot, plus 2 layers of CPP at $0.50 per square foot, it should work out to roughly the same cost of $2.50 per square foot.
IMG_3570.jpg

Conclusions
  • The cross-layer CPP composite, while heavier, seems like it could be more suited for flooring structures, while the XPS foam core composite seems more suitable for wall structures.
  • Strength tests will need to be performed with larger samples, but it's clear to me that these composites will be more than suitable for many applications where a waterproof, lightweight, durable wall or floor material is needed.
  • While the panels appear to be sufficient from a strength perspective, the durability may not be quite on par with FRP. I suspect that gouges and sharp edges will more easily damage the surface layers, but because it's multi-layered this type of damage would be mostly superficial. It should also be possible to repair cuts and gouges with melted plastic similar to how plastic kayaks are repaired. Finally, because the cost is orders of magnitude cheaper than FRP composites, entire panels could be replaced multiple times over and still be cheaper in the long run.
  • The plastic is supposed to be UV stabilized, but it will be interesting to see how it performs over time.
  • Insulation testing should be performed. My assumption is that the XPS core composite should be nearly as good as FRP composites (maybe even better), but the cross-layer composite may be slightly worse.
  • Because CPP is mostly used for advertising, it is very easy to obtain it in different colors and finishes as well as the ability to be printed on.
  • While it's relatively easy to build a vacuum bagging system in your garage, there is no reason this approach would not also work with a simple flat board and weights.
  • I've seen figures of 1.75 lbs to 2.25 lbs per square foot for FRP composite panels, so if that figure is right, these panels are 50-75% lighter.
  • If we figure FRP composite panels cost anywhere from $10-$20 per square foot, these panels can be made for 4-8X cheaper with materials you can find at your local hardware store or sign shop.
Anyway, just thought I'd post this information for the sake of sharing. As I experiment further and/or hear about experiences from other builders, I may find reasons to abandon this approach before I build my camper, but at the moment I'm encouraged enough to at least dig a little deeper.

Very interested in hearing from other builders about their experience with this or similar materials and or pointers to existing threads on the topic.
 
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Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
The "sign shop" material is polyethylene. It gets a special surface treatment as part of the manufacturing process to make it paintable. Without this it is very difficult (almost impossible) to glue well. The same material is available for packaging applications that does not have this treatment, so beware.

There is another material made for roofing which looks the same but is dramatically different. It is typically clear or tinted opaque and is made from polycarbonate.
I am using this material to build all of the interior furniture for my new truck camper. It is quite a bit stronger than the "sign shop" polyethylene type (and more expensive). I am using reject material (scratched and damaged) sourced from a major distributor.

It is readily glued but needs a careful choice of adhesives. Some 2 packs work well and I am using Sikaflex type single pack urethanes with the Sikaflex polycarbonate primer successfully.
I have also successfully bent it at 90 degrees (in either direction) successfully after routing part way through.
All of my furniture will be frameless using this material. The strength comes from the shape.
It also paints well, especially with 2 pack paints. The multi-wall versions will provide better insulation than the twin wall versions. Either could be used in sandwich construction.
Polycarbonate is extremely tough and these grades have very high UV stability, but keep it away from aromatic solvents.

There is a variety of sheet types in twin wall and multi wall.
The 10mm twin wall (2 top ones) is about 1m wide and weighs 1.7kg/m2.
The 18mm multiwall (bottom one) is 600mm wide and weighs 3.1kg/m2.
P1050171E.JPG

Outside of a longitudinal 90 degree bend.
P1040967e.JPG

Inside of the bend is reinforced using a glued-in plastic 90 degree angle. Makes for a very strong and light wall.
P1040962e.JPG

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 
Last edited:

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
Can not open your link.
Yes, it may be polypropylene which is another common polyolefin along with polyethylene with many similar properties.
Polypropylene is stiffer structurally and has better heat resistance but shares the poor gluability traits without special surface treatment. Home Depot stuff may or may not have that treatment and it is impossible to tell by looking at it.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

rruff

Explorer
I've been experimenting with more economical and locally available alternatives to FRP composite panels.
The main drawbacks to plastics are poor stiffness, high creep, and high coefficient of thermal expansion. The fiberglass reinforcement of FRP takes care of those issues, which is why it is widely used. The more fiberglass in the matrix the better.

I've seen panels commercially made that use this plastic sign material bonded to XPS, but they also have a FRP layer on each side. Basically they are using the sign board as an intermediate to protect the weak XPS. This method is not common though, so though it may be be a bit cheaper than using a stronger foam core, I doubt it is "better".

If the painted plastic alone is used as the outer layers of a panel, then it will creep badly if loaded, it will have poor stiffness, it will be easily damaged by impact, and temperature differentials between inside and outside will cause it to warp.

If you wish to make cheapish panels for a camper, I'd suggest conditioning the XPS with perforation and epoxy and then laying up woven or stitched fiberglass cloth and epoxy on each side. Or just buy much better PVC foam from Carbon Core, which is what I ended up doing. I don't know where you got $1.75-2.25/ sq ft for composite panels. 1.5 lb/sq ft is very robust with 4 lb/sq ft PVC foam, and 30-35 oz/sq ft cloth, plus epoxy.

BTW, if you aren't that concerned about insulation, you can buy panels from Carbon Core that have PP honeycomb core with FRP skins. They are ~$10/sq ft with gelcoat on both sides.
 

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