DIY EarthRoamer (sorta)... newbie questions

[1000arms]

@1000arms @tacollie From what I'm reading here, sounds like I should just accept that I'll need an F-550 or 5500 for this build, given the size I'm looking for.

Love the idea of cardboard prototyping. ...

The potential payload of the F-550 would likely be quite useful to you. (You might be able to keep things super-light and use a F-350, but, this would require a lot of careful choices.) The configuration and options chosen can make a huge difference. You'll probably want to look at the crew-cab with 84" CA (cab to axle) rather than the crew-cab with 60" CA.

Keep in mind that this truck will be at least a couple of feet longer than a CCLB pickup truck. (Much bigger than a standard parking space! ) Again, start checking on insurance and registration to help avoid any nasty surprises.

Contact Duramag and ask about how long a flatbed they would make for it.

Aluminum Flatbed Truck Bodies and Beds - DuraMag Bodies

Flatbed Aluminum Truck Bodies from Duramag

duramagbodies.com

The 2017+ F-550/450/350 cab and chassis trucks are c-channel aft of the cab, BUT, are much more rigid than older trucks. Torsional rigidity is EIGHT TIMES greater than that of the previous generation.

https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/chassis-cab/?fmccmp=lp-commercial-mid-hp-chassis-cab-comm

Bolt on a flatbed as you wanted (to "complete" the vehicle) and build your camper to go on it. Yes, you can overhang the rear with the right flatbed and loading the overhang lightly (camper open space for meals, flip down bunks, ...). Just be aware that the longer the overhang, the more the camper will turn like a schoolbus.

 

[1000arms]

Check in to changing the tile of the truck to be a motorhome (once the camper has been completed). In some states it is pretty easy to do, and can be cheaper to register and insure.

 

[1000arms]

... I can ask this in the DIY build channel if that's more appropriate, but for both composite panels and glue-and-stitch...

• How do you affix things like cabinets or fold-down bunk beds to the wall? Can you screw into the panels? I can't imagine that glue would hold weight on something like a fold-down bunk.
• How do you mount external load-bearing items? I'm planning to add a full-sized spare and some rear racks for bikes, snowboards, and such.

Stitch and glue "boatbuilding" can be incredibly strong. Do some research. The mechanical fasteners just hold things until the epoxy sets up. The epoxy does the holding. For a quick bit of info, see:

Bonding with Epoxy Fillets

Epoxy fillets are especially beneficial when attaching bulkheads to hull sides,hull sides to hull bottoms or anywhere plywood is joined at angles.

www.epoxyworks.com

For a lot of information see:

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf

from:

Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction Book | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Download a free PDF of the Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction book in its entirety, or order it from Amazon.com.

www.westsystem.com

 

[1000arms]

I can ask this in the DIY build channel if that's more appropriate, but for both composite panels and glue-and-stitch...

• How do you affix things like cabinets or fold-down bunk beds to the wall? Can you screw into the panels? I can't imagine that glue would hold weight on something like a fold-down bunk.
• How do you mount external load-bearing items? I'm planning to add a full-sized spare and some rear racks for bikes, snowboards, and such.

It is a different way of thinking and building than you are likely used to, but today's adhesives can be incredibly strong when used in the right manner and one spreads the loads out, rather than putting all the forces on a single nail pounded in to Sheetrock (or even a stud).

The plywood skin on frame that has been discussed in this thread would allow one to epoxy strips/slices/shapes of plywood that distribute the load to the frame.

Composite panels can have load distributing devices mounted to them through adhesives.

Again, politely, but very seriously, do a bit of study into stitch and glue boatbuilding to help you begin to wrap your head around the capabilities of modern adhesives!

 

[1000arms]

I'm also assuming this is a dumb and obvious question, but this would be my first truck: can you use a flatbed as a subframe and attach it in a way that it can move near the front or rear (I know which end you use for fixed attachments is a hot debate here)?

With a 2017+ F-550 and a good flatbed (or box), you should be good to go for the driving you mentioned in your original post.

If you want the extra strong 2017+ F-550 frame, get:

Payload Plus Upgrade Package
$1,155

Available on F-550 and requires 4.88 Limited-slip Rear-axle.

Payload Plus Upgrade Package includes:
• Increased GVWR from 18,000 lbs. to 19,500 lbs.
• Increased RGAWR to 14,706 lbs.
• Low Deflection/High Capacity Rear Springs
• Upgraded Frame
• Upgraded Rear-axle

 

[1000arms]

2022 Chassis Cab F-550 XL $59,035

Payment Base MSRP $51,385 Total of Options $5,855 Destination Charges $1,795 Total MSRP $59,035

Model 2022 F-550 Crew Cab 84" CA, XL, 4X4, DRW, 203", 7.3L V8 Gas Engine, Ten-Speed Automatic,

4.88 Limited Slip Axle
7.3L 2V DECVT NA PFI V8 Gas Engine 4X4 Ten-Speed Automatic
4.88 Limited Slip Axle Packages
XL Value Package $395
Power Equipment Group $1,350
Payload Plus Upgrade Package $1,155
Snow Plow Prep Package $250
Engine Block Heater $100
Skid Plates – Transfer Case $100
Dual Battery $210
Alternator – 397 Amp
Spare Tire, Wheel and Jack $350 225/70Rx19.5G BSW Traction 4x4 Tire $215
Platform Running Boards $445
Interior Medium Earth Gray, 40/20/40 Split Bench w/Center Armrest, Cupholder and Manual Lumbar Seats
Trailer Brake Controller

Just to get you thinking!

 

[rruff]

Not including the truck, somewhere between $20k-40k, maybe? I'm viewing this is an investment in family memories.

I'd call that a tight budget for everything. This is going to have all the normal stuff... like refrigerator, shower, bathroom, stove, etc? What would you say your budget is just for the complete shell?

First off, you *do* want to think sandwich construction, rather than framing, insulation, and sheathing. It will be lighter and stronger. Core and skins can vary, but if you don't want a wood interior, you might as well use fiberglass+gelcoat sheets for both skins. That way you have a nice, durable, waterproof surface already. Cheap core would be the 2" XPS foam you can buy at the hardware store, with wood slats to give you hard points and also add strength to the core. This is all glued together. Edges are also screwed and glued. On outer edges add aluminum or pultruded fiberglass angle.

Anyway, lots of details to work out, but I think that's a good and inexpensive way to do the shell.

 

[rruff]

Again, politely, but very seriously, do a bit of study into stitch and glue boatbuilding to help you begin to wrap your head around the capabilities of modern adhesives!

I looked into that method because I liked the idea of a curved aero shape. I've never seen someone do it for a camper. Some drawbacks are: 1) It isn't insulated unlike a sandwich panel; you just have a single plywood layer. 2) Curved surfaces can be a PITA to build your interior around, and they reduce the amount of space you have with a fixed envelope (like 8' max width). 3) The boats that are built with this method are usually small, for good reason.

 

[1000arms]

I looked into that method because I liked the idea of a curved aero shape. I've never seen someone do it for a camper. Some drawbacks are: 1) It isn't insulated unlike a sandwich panel; you just have a single plywood layer. 2) Curved surfaces can be a PITA to build your interior around, and they reduce the amount of space you have with a fixed envelope (like 8' max width). 3) The boats that are built with this method are usually small, for good reason.

I am suggesting that he look at stitch and glue boatbuilding because it makes very good use of epoxy (adhesive) and is different than using only mechanical fasteners.

It would be quite easy to apply the concept of using simple mechanical fasteners to hold things in place while Loctite PL-Premium construction adhesive or epoxy sets up. It would also be quite easy to apply that same capability to making a frame, insulating with rigid insulation and skinning it with thin plywood.

You might want to look over Sam Devlin's website. He has been making good use of stitch and glue techniques on small and large boats for many years. The second edition of his book is supposed to be released soon, and, his first edition is still selling.

Stitch and Glue

Visit the post for more.

devlinboat.com

Although not a truck camper, you might take a quick look at this stitch and glue teardrop trailer:

Build-your-own Teardrop Camper Kit and Plans

You might want to look over this truck camper where " The camper was constructed in similar manner that you would go about building a boat, just upside down. In terms of what makes it unique, essentially everything. From its bead-and-cove cedar construction to its double intersecting elliptical roof radius, down to its 12-part, segmented ring windows with “eyebrow” rain protection, there is nothing standard or expected at all.

In terms of material it’s built entirely out of wood, 2×4’s for the subframe, laminated plywood for the curved roof tresses, and bead and cove cedar to clad it with, and waterproofed with a fiberglass and epoxy." from:

DIY Spotlight: Ian Azariah's 'Mobile Dojo' Wooden Truck Topper

When it comes to truck camper construction, wood gets a bad rap. That's too bad because when it comes to wood nothing is more beautiful. The key to wood

www.truckcamperadventure.com

One doesn't have to put lots of curves into a "stitch and glue" truck-camper. I have been thinking a light and strong insulated rectangular box plus cabover, with interior cabinets/supports glued in to place for additional roof support, would be a useful camper for @ReluctantTraveler + family, and relatively easy to build for someone used to working with wood.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

@1000arms i saw a photo of that last camper a few weld back, and it’s what made me think I could do this with wood.

Thanks for the link to the article!

And thanks for the other details as well. I’m not ignoring your suggestion to do side research (I’ve done quite s bit already), but I typically need to grasp the big picture before I can dive the weeds. Thanks for your help.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

@rruff for the interior, I’d be using wood cabinets and such. I just wasn’t sure what people do to the walls (paint, tile, wallpaper, etc).

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Oh, and I’m not worried about it driving like a bus. It’ll still be miles better than driving with a trailer in tow.

 

[1000arms]

@1000arms i saw a photo of that last camper a few weld back, and it’s what made me think I could do this with wood.

Thanks for the link to the article!

And thanks for the other details as well. I’m not ignoring your suggestion to do side research (I’ve done quite s bit already), but I typically need to grasp the big picture before I can dive the weeds. Thanks for your help.

You are welcome.

I don't know if you are already there, or still figuring out just what can be done with adhesives rather than relying on mechanical bolts and screws, but, in case you aren't there yet, I'm trying to get you there, because it will really help with the big picture!

Years ago a friend of mine told me, "When you learn to weld, it will change how you think." I didn't understand it until I learned to weld, but, once I did, my thinking about projects dramatically changed. Learning what I can do with adhesives rather than only relying on bolts, screws, and welding steel or aluminum also dramatically changed my thinking about projects.

 

[1000arms]

Oh, and I’m not worried about it driving like a bus. It’ll still be miles better than driving with a trailer in tow.

I was referring to how the back end of a long bus moves when the bus is turned. The long overhang allows a shorter wheelbase for a given length vehicle (which is great for twisting narrow neighborhood streets), but does require the driver to be aware of how the back of the vehicle moves.

 

[1000arms]

@rruff for the interior, I’d be using wood cabinets and such. I just wasn’t sure what people do to the walls (paint, tile, wallpaper, etc).

Paint, varnish, epoxy, wallpaper, wood-burn, doodle, and/or cover in photographs/postcards/...

Tile might be heavier than you want to use.