Doc's 05 Tacoma Build Thread

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
I went out yesterday and hammered it pretty good. I am now reconsidering anything bigger than a 33. I rubbed pretty bad as it is at full stuff at all corners. Yeah you could get bigger in there, but the bumpstops would have to be modified quite a bit, taking away the limited travel we have already.... But for belly clearance,,,,,it might be worth it.... But for now, I need some BudBuilt skids.

My suspicions are correct then, thanks for posting!

Skids are on my short list as well, and 35's just seem like I'd be creating problems and possibly sacrificing reliablity of key components so they are off the list.

Besides, 33's have taken me everywhere I've ever pointed her!
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
I think that a metric 33-inch tire is the 'right' tire for these trucks (Tacoma, 4Runner, FJC), either a 255/85 or 285/75R16 if you have a desire for a 33-ish tall tire.

I have a friend who recently purchased a 2004 V8 4Runner. He likes my build very much, but wants 35s. I keep telling him if he wants/needs 35s he should start with a different platform. Things work so well with skids/armor, keeping the IFS intact and happy, and 33s.
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
May 2009 Update

A few changes to my game plan from an earlier post, but the current plan is still basically the same.

1. Gears.
I have decided to buy the third members pre-assembled, and may go with East Coast Gear vice JT's due to customer service and overall best deal, including a 5 year warranty. I will also be upgrading the front to the larger 3.90 and up carrier to handle the 4.88's. Nitro Gear will most likely be the brand. Cost: $1,500 front and rear pre-assembled third members with core exchange, shipped.

2. Rear Suspension.
Went with the full OME HD Dakar system for the rear vice any custom work. Simple and reliable wins the race. Parts are on a pallet in my garage. Cost: $700 shipped from Toyota of Dallas

3. Tires.
Leaning heavily toward the BFG MT KM2's for my new tires. We'll see if that changes by August, cost TBD.

4. Skids.
Budbuilt, full set with gas tank skid: Mandatory. Anyone who 'wheels their Tacoma should place real skids at the top of their mod list and save themselves some damage - I have been lucky but should have put these on the 1st year. Cost: $900 shipped.

5. Bed/Overland Organization.
I will be removing the fridge and re-installing the rest of the back seat. The fridge will be most likely be mounted in the bed and a storage system fabricated back there since I will be obtaining a topper with windoors for the bed.

I'm sticking to a $6,000 budget for this rebuild so this leaves me about $2,900 for tires, topper, and 60,000 mile maintenance
 
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heeltoe989

Explorer
A few changes to my game plan from an earlier post, but the current plan is still basically the same.

1. Gears.
I have decided to buy the third members pre-assembled, and may go with East Coast Gear vice JT's due to customer service and overall best deal, including a 5 year warranty. I will also be upgrading the front to the larger 3.90 and up carrier to handle the 4.88's. Nitro Gear will most likely be the brand. Cost: $1,500 front and rear pre-assembled third members with core exchange, shipped.

2. Rear Suspension.
Went with the full OME HD Dakar system for the rear vice any custom work. Simple and reliable wins the race. Parts are on a pallet in my garage. Cost: $700 shipped from Toyota of Dallas

3. Tires.
Leaning heavily toward the BFG MT KM2's for my new tires. We'll see if that changes by August, cost TBD.

4. Skids.
Budbuilt, full set with gas tank skid: Mandatory. Anyone who 'wheels their Tacoma should place real skids at the top of their mod list and save themselves some damage - I have been lucky but should have put these on the 1st year. Cost: $900 shipped.

5. Bed/Overland Organization.
I will be removing the fridge and re-installing the rest of the back seat. The fridge will be most likely be mounted in the bed and a storage system fabricated back there since I will be obtaining a topper with windoors for the bed.

I'm sticking to a $6,000 budget for this rebuild so this leaves me about $2,900 for tires, topper, and 60,000 mile maintenance

Don't forget about your Icons fronts with King Springs and an extended coil-over re-build! :):victory:
 

luni

Observer
What made you get away from the bed rack and towards a camper shell? I've been planning on a bed rack for the open versatility. It seems almost as good as an open bed for what's ultimately still my daily driver that sees its fair share of loads hauled in the bed.
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
What made you get away from the bed rack and towards a camper shell? I've been planning on a bed rack for the open versatility. It seems almost as good as an open bed for what's ultimately still my daily driver that sees its fair share of loads hauled in the bed.

The rack is awesome, but may family is outgrowing it as far as cab space (need to put the fridge in the bed or elsewhere) and accessibility (we have a new little one!)

My future plans include a trailer from AT, ideally one of these:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26529

:drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:
 
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Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
I strongly agree. Skids are very helpful and/or necessary depending on how you use your truck.

I'll offer an enthusiastic endorsement to Bud Built, both the product and the man.


snip.......

4. Skids.
Budbuilt, full set with gas tank skid: Mandatory. Anyone who 'wheels their Tacoma should place real skids at the top of their mod list and save themselves some damage - I have been lucky but should have put these on the 1st year. Cost: $900 shipped.

snip.........
 

Jacket

2008 Expedition Trophy Champion
A consideration with the Budbuilts (or any skid) and our belly's.....

As you know, the exhaust crossover hangs below the Tcase cross member on these trucks, reducing the ground clearance in that spot and making it susceptible to damage. Bud's design protects the exhaust by adding a square steel spacer below the cross member where the belly pan attaches to the cross member. The good: it protects the exhaust. The bad: major loss of additional clearance. I spend more time scraping my belly now than I ever did before, with the caveat that I know I'm protected and I'm scraping something meant to protect.

I've had some discussions about options for relocating the exhaust cross over, but the choices are pretty limited. But figuring that problem out, and getting the skid plate flush with the cross member would gain several inches of precious clearance - more so than a 35" tire. Of course that would also require a customization to the existing Bud plates since they are designed to align several inches below the cross member, and don't bend that easily ;)

Just one more thing to think about.....:)
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
Bud can build them without the spacer for the exhaust crossover i.e. high clearance. This is the direction I am going and will be re-routing and adding a Magnaflow.
 

mr.trd

Adventurer
The Doug Thorley pipe bomb moves the exhaust up above the crossmember and has two resinators built into it to not make it too loud. Also the from the talking I did with Bud, the skids are built to be able to use the spacers when needed and then be removed if you have something done with the exhaust. That is the direction I am planning on going with mine. BudBuilt skids with the spacer, then the pipe bomb and remove the spacers.
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
June 2009 Update

My recent injuries in Africa have set back my plans for modifications and trips this summer. But, I am undeterred and have continued to plan and dream :)

The current plan is still basically the same with two big exceptions - today we bought a 2009 Jayco Baja... for the light duty family trips (no intent of anything more than dirt roads and such with the Baja) that I may even be able to enjoy as I recover... and, after mucho deliberation about the topper and bed organization choices available...

...the wife has agreed to the purchase of an AT FlipPac!!! :victory:

These decisions have left me with the best of both worlds - The FlipPac will give me the capability to continue my trips to remote places on technical trails while the Jayco Baja gives us (my wife especially) a lighter duty, family/baby friendly option for trips that includes a toilet/shower. Everyone wins.

The modified list consists of the following:

1. Gears.
I have decided to buy the third members pre-assembled, and may go with East Coast Gear vice JT's due to customer service and overall best deal, including a 5 year warranty. I will also be upgrading the front to the larger 3.90 and up carrier to handle the 4.88's. Nitro Gear will most likely be the brand. Cost: $1,500 front and rear pre-assembled third members with core exchange, shipped.

2. Rear Suspension.
Went with the full OME HD Dakar system for the rear vice any custom work. Simple and reliable wins the race. Parts are on a pallet in my garage. Cost: $700 shipped from Toyota of Dallas

3. Tires.
Leaning heavily toward the BFG MT KM2's for my new tires. We'll see if that changes by August, cost TBD.

4. Skids.
Budbuilt, full set with gas tank skid: Mandatory. Anyone who 'wheels their Tacoma should place real skids at the top of their mod list and save themselves some damage - I have been lucky but should have put these on the 1st year. Cost: $900 shipped.

5. Bed/Overland Organization.
I will be removing the fridge and re-installing the rest of the back seat. The fridge will be most likely be mounted in the bed and a storage system fabricated back there since I will be obtaining an AT FlipPac.

I tried sticking to a $6,000 budget for this rebuild... ain't gonna happen with the FlipPac so I will be selling the Deavers and the Demello Rack + Eezi Awn 1600 to soften the blow. It's a good thing I saved money on deployment!
 
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