dyogim's 00 tundra build
- Thread starter dyogim
- Start date
dyogim
Explorer
Here's a few pics of the work in progress. Once I got all the parts removed and the special service tools delivered, I was able to start on the first valve stem seal. 1 down, 31 more to go.
Here's the driver side, with plastic bags filling up all the openings. So, nothing drops down into the oil pan...
Here's a pic of the new valve stem oil seal (left) and the old one (right). Notice the difference in the openings. I can understand why oil would be leaking through....
Pic of the first seal replacement...
Here are the special tools I used to get this done.
Universal pulley holder, purchased from Amazon.com for around $55. This helped with unbolting the camshaft sprocket and can also be used to help unbolt the crankshaft bolt for the timing belt.
Lisle 36200 Valve keeper remover/installer - This was very easy to use and the magnetic base made it easy to keep track of the keepers. Not a lot of force is needed to remove or install the keepers.
Lisle 19700 Valve Holder - if using this, you'll need a large capacity compressor as the pressure drops fast enough to cycle every few minutes. Using a pancake (2.5-5 gallon) compressor would not be ideal. Unless, it can keep a 100% duty cycle at around 80 psi.
Here's the driver side, with plastic bags filling up all the openings. So, nothing drops down into the oil pan...
Here's a pic of the new valve stem oil seal (left) and the old one (right). Notice the difference in the openings. I can understand why oil would be leaking through....
Pic of the first seal replacement...
Here are the special tools I used to get this done.
Universal pulley holder, purchased from Amazon.com for around $55. This helped with unbolting the camshaft sprocket and can also be used to help unbolt the crankshaft bolt for the timing belt.
Lisle 36200 Valve keeper remover/installer - This was very easy to use and the magnetic base made it easy to keep track of the keepers. Not a lot of force is needed to remove or install the keepers.
Lisle 19700 Valve Holder - if using this, you'll need a large capacity compressor as the pressure drops fast enough to cycle every few minutes. Using a pancake (2.5-5 gallon) compressor would not be ideal. Unless, it can keep a 100% duty cycle at around 80 psi.
jim65wagon
Well-known member
Extra cred for doing it yourself! (like you need more build cred!) How many miles are on that motor?
dyogim
Explorer
Thanks! There's about 160K miles on the motor. Oil intervals about every 3000 miles.
jim65wagon
Well-known member
hmmmm.....I'm at 186,000 and 5000 mile oil changes.....
dyogim
Explorer
Finally replaced all the seals, put the valve springs, retainers, caps, cam shafts, sprockets and valve covers back on. The most difficult seals to replace were the two exhaust valve seals in cylinder 7. The AC lines got in the way. What's left is to re-installall the other parts I took off to get to the seals. Timing belt, covers, fan, shroud, air box, etc, drain the oil and replace with new oil then, start it up. Finally!!!
All the tools listed in lextreme's article worked out great.
One note if you were going to do this, definitely keep your eye out on those valve spring retainer keepers. I had an incident where I dropped one and couldn't find it for a while. Had to step away and let the sun set and go back with a flash light to find it. It was sitting on the frame rail. I was able to continue with the work.
I did notice in both cylinder heads, after removing the valve seals and cleaning the valve stems, there was more build up of dirt on the exhaust valves. In some instances a small "pool" of oil was still sitting around the seal. I think this could have caused the seals to go bad as the oil just sits there. I also park in a driveway with a small incline. Maybe this also contributed to the bad seals. I'm going to start parking in a more flat area of my driveway, open up the valve covers and see if the oil drains better. If it does, I'll be changing parking spots at home or frequently use sea foam to help clean the internals and protect them.
I'll post back up after I start it up and let it blow out the residual smoke since it's been sitting for a while and drive some miles...
All the tools listed in lextreme's article worked out great.
One note if you were going to do this, definitely keep your eye out on those valve spring retainer keepers. I had an incident where I dropped one and couldn't find it for a while. Had to step away and let the sun set and go back with a flash light to find it. It was sitting on the frame rail. I was able to continue with the work.
I did notice in both cylinder heads, after removing the valve seals and cleaning the valve stems, there was more build up of dirt on the exhaust valves. In some instances a small "pool" of oil was still sitting around the seal. I think this could have caused the seals to go bad as the oil just sits there. I also park in a driveway with a small incline. Maybe this also contributed to the bad seals. I'm going to start parking in a more flat area of my driveway, open up the valve covers and see if the oil drains better. If it does, I'll be changing parking spots at home or frequently use sea foam to help clean the internals and protect them.
I'll post back up after I start it up and let it blow out the residual smoke since it's been sitting for a while and drive some miles...
dyogim
Explorer
Just to provide an update on the rig....
If anyone needs a 2WD transmission from a 2002 tundra, let me know. The guy selling the motor has this for sale as well. He's located in Sacramento, CA and I believe asking for $750.
- After replacing the valve stem seals and driving for a bit, the smoke is still bellowing out the exhaust at start-up and the ticking from the pass side cylinder head has not gone a way. So, now to look at the piston seals. Instead of rebuilding the whole motor, I picked up a block that had only 5K miles on it from a local friend for $400. I had planned on removing my original heads, have them rebuilt and install them on the "new" block with all new parts. Cost to have the heads rebuilt, at least $800. Although I still plan on doing that, I came across a complete motor from a 2002 tundra that has about 55K miles on it. Comes with the PS pump, alternator, AC compressor, etc. for around $500. So, that is my plan now. Just swap motors. Rebuild the other and have it as a spare or sell it. I plan on picking up the motor this weekend.
- Next, I got rid of my Trail Worthy Fab re-centered 8 bolt H1 wheels. Keeping the 37" tires but, will be mounted on Centerline aluminum wheels. Much, much lighter than the steel H1 wheels! This should help relieve some stress on all the drivetrain and motor parts.
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- Once this is all done, I can go back and concentrate on improving the rig to make it as simple, effective and efficient as possible to survive the "wilderness".
If anyone needs a 2WD transmission from a 2002 tundra, let me know. The guy selling the motor has this for sale as well. He's located in Sacramento, CA and I believe asking for $750.
Mtntravo
New member
Have you checked your pcv? I had the blue smoke at start up, I figured the same thing as you with the valve seals because I have 210,000 on my engine. Did my starter a few months ago and when I did I split the upper intake from the lower portion and it had a decent amount of oil in it. It was Pooled up in nooks and crannys and pretty nasty. Had i not taken the two apart probably would not have noticed. Pcv was letting oil in, I guess it was messed up and probably original. New Pcv and cleaned intake no more blue smoke. It's been a few months and the truck sat for about a month during solid axle swap, fired it up and no smoke. Not sure how bad your smoke is but mine was bad enough for friends to make fun of it. Just a thought By the way your truck was a big part of the insperation behind torching off my ifs!!!
dyogim
Explorer
I never thought to check that. Maybe I'll try that before I take the motor out. Thanks for the info.
More pics of your rig....:smiley_drive:
Mtntravo
New member
I didn't either. I just decided to separate them when I did the starter so I could see what the inside looked like and it made the lower plenum bolts easier to remove. The intake gasket set from fel pro is a bit pricey. I'm pretty particular with my motor, but if I was broke at the time I think the original gaskets could have been reused. I will start a build thred soon. Not quite done still working on 4.88s, drive shaft for the front and a Detroit in the rear. What are you running for a front drive shaft if you don't mind me asking?
dyogim
Explorer
I'll be getting the Fel-pro gaskets for all of it (Intake, exhaust, valve, etc,). Unless the cost of the factory gaskets are cheaper with my connection at the local dealers. I've been thinking about swapping out my Detroit locker for a Truetrac. If you have one, let me know if you are interested in a trade.
The front driveshaft is actually a lengthened stock front driveshaft for the tundra. I've had no issues with it even when one side (or both) of the front axle is extended.
