eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
When the time comes up upgrade, ORV is likely to be the top contender!
eatSleepWoof gets a Winnie
- Thread starter eatSleepWoof
- Start date
When the time comes up upgrade, ORV is likely to be the top contender!
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Quick question on your dc/dc charger. I was told the high amp dc/dc chargers can stress out the TV alternator. My victron is only 18 amps because of my old Ford Transit van did not like the 40 amp charger.We got out for a few nights this weekend, which was a very welcome change from the daily grind.
Unfortunately my DC/DC charging system didn't function, so I spent half the first day trying to diagnose the problem, and had to go into town to pick up a multimeter (which will now live in the trailer).
The power to the whole system comes from my LX, and goes through two 80a circuit breakers. This is just how it worked out over the years of various mods to the LX. It looks like my 2nd (from the battery) breaker is the problem. The DC/DC charger pulls 40a, and it works for about a minute, but then the voltage on the output side of the breaker drops to 1v, even through the breaker remains closed. That breaker has spent about 5 to 5.5 years in the engine bay, so it looks like its time is up. It's not even technically necessary, so I'll be replacing it w/ a bus bar in the near future.
And of course, as is tradition, the furnace stopped heating at 3:30am on night #2. Yet another round of 5 minutes outside to clean the sail switch (which again had a tiny fluff of hair/fur/whatever on it), and it was working again. I'd really, really, REALLY love to meet the person that designed this mechanism and have a friendly little chat. Ideally, with an accessible back hoe somewhere nearby.
On the good news side of things, everything else worked as intended, and the now fully blacked out interior helps everyone sleep much better and much longer than before. All trailers should come with fully black-out blinds from the factory!
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Not sure where the question is, but that information is generally correct. You do need an alternator that can handle the additional load. Thankfully my alternator, like everything else in the LX, is oversized & overbuilt. No issues with that. Some folks even run 50-60a DC/DC chargers.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Yes sorry and thanks for answering my question even though I didn't really ask a question. Think my GX 460 could go up to 50 amp?
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Honestly, I'm really not sure. I don't know much about the GX as I never really looked into that model's specifics.
I'd suggest hopping over to ih8mud and asking the enthusiast crowd.
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
In preparation for the solar upgrades I decided to clean up the electrical a little bit. The previous setup had all loads connected to the single 60a circuit breaker and the negative battery shunt, but that wasn't great for several reasons.
Instead, I replaced that 60a breaker with a 200a one, and installed a 200a-rated BlueSea 7748 Safety Hub 150 fuse block. I used a 80a fuse for the main electrical/converter (rated for 55a output), a 50a fuse for my 40a DC/DC charger, and will use another 50a fuse for the 40a Renogy MPPT Solar controller (& panels) when that's installed. Also added terminal covers wherever I could, because a little extra safety can't hurt.
New setup is much more versatile, electronics/circuits are better protected, and I've got room to expand further (with options for both low and high amp circuits).
Instead, I replaced that 60a breaker with a 200a one, and installed a 200a-rated BlueSea 7748 Safety Hub 150 fuse block. I used a 80a fuse for the main electrical/converter (rated for 55a output), a 50a fuse for my 40a DC/DC charger, and will use another 50a fuse for the 40a Renogy MPPT Solar controller (& panels) when that's installed. Also added terminal covers wherever I could, because a little extra safety can't hurt.
New setup is much more versatile, electronics/circuits are better protected, and I've got room to expand further (with options for both low and high amp circuits).
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Finally making some headway on solar. Installed the new 40a Renogy MPPT solar controller, and ran 6AWG from it to the new fuse box:
With the sky being completely cloudy without even a hint of sunshine, the app was showing a charge of 4.84a going to the battery, which is pretty damn impressive IMO. This is off the original 190W panel that the trailer came with. With the original PWT controller I'd see 5-6a of charge going into the battery with full, mid-day sun above me.
The one major downside to the app is the amount of data it wants to use to track and identify you. There is zero reason to require this information. I did not allow location access when I installed the app, but I'm sure it still collects a hundred times more than it should. And as is tradition, the app is authored by some Chinese firm, so there's no need to guess what country is receiving my personal data.
I think next time I'd go Victron purely due to this app and tracking crap. I hate this kind of stuff.
Next up is installing the two new solar panels.
With the sky being completely cloudy without even a hint of sunshine, the app was showing a charge of 4.84a going to the battery, which is pretty damn impressive IMO. This is off the original 190W panel that the trailer came with. With the original PWT controller I'd see 5-6a of charge going into the battery with full, mid-day sun above me.
The one major downside to the app is the amount of data it wants to use to track and identify you. There is zero reason to require this information. I did not allow location access when I installed the app, but I'm sure it still collects a hundred times more than it should. And as is tradition, the app is authored by some Chinese firm, so there's no need to guess what country is receiving my personal data.
I think next time I'd go Victron purely due to this app and tracking crap. I hate this kind of stuff.
Next up is installing the two new solar panels.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
The data side of it does suck, but I like what you have going on there. And with that little of sunshine, that is pretty impressive.
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
I forgot to include the screenshot of what Renogy's app wants...
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Both of the panels are installed, wiring connected, pumping out that sun juice all day long! Looking forward to seeing what kind of results these deliver in real use. We've got a week of camping coming up in early June, and then two more at the end of the same month.
I think I'm going to make and add wind deflectors for both panels, similar to what the original panel has. Directing airflow up and over the panels seems like a good idea.
I think I'm going to make and add wind deflectors for both panels, similar to what the original panel has. Directing airflow up and over the panels seems like a good idea.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Looking great! Like your deflector idea, anything to help keep wind from grabbing them is a good idea IMO. Interested to hear how it all works for you. Hopefully you get some good full sun days.
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Well shoot. App is showing me that I've got 100.1v coming in this morning, with a "solar overcharge" error message. My math (and Grok's) suggested that I'd be just under the 100v limit, but that doesn't look to be the case in the real world. Guess I need to upgrade the solar controller to a larger one. Ugh.
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Replaced the 100v/40a Renogy controller with a 150v/60a one. This one can handle up to 800w of solar (I have 580w), so I can potentially add another 200W panel if I can find a way to squeeze one in.
Charging the trailer like a champ. With setting sun at 5pm and a few shadows in play, I saw as high as 18a going to the battery. Very happy about that.
I also ran the temperature sensor to the batteries, and taped it to the side of the first battery.
This weekend I'll work on the wind deflectors for the two new panels.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
It's probably best it's oversized. Running them full tilt 100% of the time tends to get them to over temp and de-rate anyway. Looks good!