Exrunners Xj
- Thread starter SixLug
- Start date
ExpoMike
Well-known member
My lift is ~3". I too am using the front drive shaft trick for the rear. Works great. My buddy has been using this setup for 4-5 years without issues. It's nice to know I can swap the front to the rear if needed.
As for the starting problem, I have on occation into the same problem and outside of annoying, I haven't done anything about it. I chalk it up to being a "Jeep thing" :hehe:
As for the starting problem, I have on occation into the same problem and outside of annoying, I haven't done anything about it. I chalk it up to being a "Jeep thing" :hehe:
IH8RDS, thank you once again...ha ha.
TheGillz..thank you sir...thank you.
xjmike, sounds like we are on the same type setup. What lower control arms are you using?? (edit: I see your sig)
As for the starting issue, just glad its not a huge deal.
Thanks for all for the help and comments...Glad to be a part of the club.
TheGillz..thank you sir...thank you.
xjmike, sounds like we are on the same type setup. What lower control arms are you using?? (edit: I see your sig)
As for the starting issue, just glad its not a huge deal.
Thanks for all for the help and comments...Glad to be a part of the club.
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Got the tires/wheels today. Met the guy about 30 mi from Chattanooga into Goergia. Took around 5 hrs total. I love them...quiet, smooth, help gas mileage, new. I traded for them with some fairly warn 33" BFG MT's and $50. They have around 2-3K on them, and are 31/10.50R15 BFG AT's on Crager Soft 8s. If I could have gotten them new, I would pick a little greater backspacing (correct? Not as much poke is what I mean), but it doesnt matter. I got a heck of a deal. I also put 5% on the front windows, as the rest except the rear are 5% also. The rear glass is 20%. May not be totally practicle but I personally like the inside atmosphere with dark glass. Pics:
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With regard to your hard cold start problem, try this. When cold, turn on the key but don't crank. Wait 5 seconds and turn off the key. Turn the key back on and wait 5 seconds, then try cranking. See if that makes any difference. if it does, you have a fuel pressure bleed down in your EFI system, and need to pressurize the system before trying to start. The computer will turn on the fuel pump every key-on cycle for a few seconds, then turn it off until the engine starts, when it turns back on. If the first few seconds are not sufficient to fully pressurize the system from pump to rail, there is no fuel to start the engine with. Cycling the key causes the pump to go through more than one pressure cycle before you attempt a start. This is also a way to force fuel from tank to engine if you ever run out of gas and need to refuel the lines. Excess pressure should be returned to the tank, so there is no problem with how many times you cycle the pump before you try to start.
If this problem exists, borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and verify pressure cold, then cold with a key cycle, then started and running, then with the key off after running. This will let you know what fuel pressure the engine is seeing during these phases of operation. If slow to build pressure with a single key cycle, the pump could be bad, or the fuel filter partially clogged. Start by checking or replacing the fuel filter, and if no change, suspect the pump. If pressure is okay during running, you can always just accommodate the pump by cycling the key more than once when cold. It costs nothing. If pressure builds okay but falls off instantly with the key off, I would suspect a leaking regulator. Pressure usually falls off, but should do so rather slowly with the pump and key off, and if I remember correctly, should hold back some degree of pressure even when off.
If this problem exists, borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and verify pressure cold, then cold with a key cycle, then started and running, then with the key off after running. This will let you know what fuel pressure the engine is seeing during these phases of operation. If slow to build pressure with a single key cycle, the pump could be bad, or the fuel filter partially clogged. Start by checking or replacing the fuel filter, and if no change, suspect the pump. If pressure is okay during running, you can always just accommodate the pump by cycling the key more than once when cold. It costs nothing. If pressure builds okay but falls off instantly with the key off, I would suspect a leaking regulator. Pressure usually falls off, but should do so rather slowly with the pump and key off, and if I remember correctly, should hold back some degree of pressure even when off.
