FInally found the right one, 2000 E250 - Prepping some axles...

[nely]

No problem. As for strength, i dunno if its stronger but any quality shop will know of updated parts or upgrades for the transmission.

For example,
Im currently driving my van and a transmission shop is building a trans for me. The info they needed was only the teeth count on the output shaft speedo gear so the can get the right gear. Apparently if your off by 1 tooth on that speedo gear your off by 20mph on the speedo.

Anyways they were saying my e4od has a 3 pinion plantery set and there is an updated part that is now a 6 pinion. They also say theres some aluminium pieces that can be upgraded to steel, they will stuff more steel and fricion plates to hold the gears better for the engine upgrades im looking for. Also there modifying the valve body for more pressure and firmer shifts.

So defenitly check out if theres updated parts for your transmission, or see what a quality shop recommends for your application.

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

 

[sdski]

So I still haven't managed to meet up with the guy with the tranny, but I did make it to the junkyard today and found a 1990 Bronco with a BW1356 manual shift.



Thankfully I had a helper, since I now have to deal with this:



D'oh!

 

[scoutkid]

So I still haven't managed to meet up with the guy with the tranny, but I did make it to the junkyard today and found a 1990 Bronco with a BW1356 manual shift. $100 for everything was a tough deal to pass up.



D'oh!

Man those yolks look brand new! I'm interested to see how your conversion goes with the 1356 rather than the NP271. Good price for sure!

 

[ujoint]

Nice score on the t-case! Looks like most of a CV on one end, that makes it even better.

 

[sdski]

I made sure to pop the ujoint at the end of the CV and leave it attached as "part of the transfer case" figuring I might need it for shortening the driveshaft. So far i'd say I'm happy with it simply because its not the weight of the 271, haha.

I think it will be fine for what I am going for, 5.4 with 33s on a budget. I think I tracked down the insulation I'm looking for, so once i finish modeling the interior on the computer I'll start that build. I'm still in the search for axles, I got a number of someone to call on Monday that might be able to pull them from their yard, so we'll see. Then I just need to sketch up some bumpers and a nice roof basket...

 

[sdski]

Picked up a 4x4 4R70W today, complete with 4x4 output shaft, t-case mounting flange and t-case linkage bracket on the side.



It was in a wrecked F150 with 140k miles. I think I'll have it rebuilt just in case, but its nice to be able to drive my van while thats happening and its good to know that everything is there for 4x4.

I also started to hear a little exhaust leak, pulled the doghouse and found a broken stud on the passenger side exhaust manifold. Bummer.

 

[sdski]

Look what I found today!

 

[scoutkid]

Look what I found today!
View attachment 72321

Sweet! Looks to be pretty complete! A 60 or 50? What gears? No matching rear? What are you planning on doing out back?

 

[ujoint]

Looks like a good donor!

 

[sdski]

Yeah the drag link is sitting on the van floor next to it, as are the u-bolt plates. Its a f-350 D60 out of a 2002, 3.73:1 gears, which match my rear. I'm trying to keep this a budget build, so I'll just put adapters on the rear to match the 8x170mm front pattern. I am only trying to go for 33" tires at this point, so I think 3.73s will do, should get me cruising at 65mph around 1700 rpm.

The bad news is I was taking a look at it today and I think the caster angle is off between the two inner C's, as if the passenger side tube was rotated. Might see if this guy will trade me for a good one, otherwise time to start cutting...

 

[ujoint]

Measure them & I'll match it to an axle I have in the shop. I've looked at them in the past & thought the same thing.

 

[sdski]

Yeah I'm positive they are off now after looking at it more, by a good amount too. It was from a wrecked truck, there was some damage to the drag link (which is why I have a different one not on the axle) and swaybar/track bar were a little banged up, but it seemed fine otherwise, I would not have expected this much damage to go unnoticed until I got it home. Everything appeared good inside, I figured I was good to go. These pictures will explain what I am talking about. I only had a standard level, so I have no idea how many degrees it is off by, but now when I look at it it totally jumps out at me.

Looking from Drivers to Passenger side comparison:


Passenger Side Spring Pad at level:


Drivers Side Spring Pad (w/ passenger side still level):


And the icing on the cake right here, I cleaned off around the casting and you can blatantly see through the hole where the tube rotated. Interestingly enough the plug welds don't look like they shifted much though...


FYI I also put the level on a flat spot on the top of the inner C and the results were the same.

 

[sdski]

Well, this went from a ****ty day to a really ****ty day. I drove the van 3/4 mile to the grocery store, bought some food, started the van back up and POP goes the spark plug. I guess I had it coming buying a 5.4 V8. Now for it to sit in the driveway while I figure out what to do next.

 

[ujoint]

No bueno....

 

[driller]

Napa has a thread insert kit that works very nice. I use them all the time on our work trucks. It comes with a drill guide to keep the bit straight. Just drill out the old threads, tap the hole and insert new threads.