Flat towing a Range Rover Classic.

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Hey guys, I think I just came accross a free RRC at a friends house in MT last night while travelling through. It runs and drives well, guess it just has some interior accesory issues. I also have the good fortune of possibly having someone who can flat tow it back to the UP for me. My question is regarding said flat towing. Is it ok to do so?

If it works out I am pretty pumped. I have passed on buying RRC's now twice over the past 15 years but have always wanted one. Hopefully third timeis a charm.
 

brushogger

Explorer
Just to be on the safe side I would remove the drive shafts. I can't imagine any issues with that other than no "park" or parking brake when unhitched from the tow vehicle. Just remember to chock the wheels before unhitching. Great Find! I love freebies.
 
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Wander

Expedition Leader
If you would rather trailer-I rented a twin axel U haul car hauler w/ surge brakes when I picked up my IIa-it was was a one way tow and only cost $99.

Nice find-hope it works out!
 

galen216

Adventurer
For that distance I agree with the DS removal. I towed mine home and had no problems. I did not remove the DS's. Look in the owner's manual and it will give you proper instructions for that year RRC.
 

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upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
I didn't realize the uhaul option was so cheap, that might be worth. I am flying back to Michigan as we speak (thanks for free wifi Delta!) so I wouldn't be there to remove the driveshafts. I only had a few minutes to check the truck out last night, at midnight, in the dark, covered in snow in my buddy's yard in Whitefish. It belongs to his landlord so I am trying to get all the details on it. I don't even know the year of the thing yet. We will see what happens.
 

Michael Slade

Untitled
Removing the DS's is a better option IMO. I have towed a lot of vehicles, both flat and on trailers and it seems that the additional weight of the trailer is less of an evil than the pain of removing the DS's.

Congrats! A free RRC sounds about right.
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
D2 owners are well versed at removing Dshafts. Thanks to the wonderful design of placing ujoints near the catalytic converters.

-Sam
Removing the DS's is a better option IMO. I have towed a lot of vehicles, both flat and on trailers and it seems that the additional weight of the trailer is less of an evil than the pain of removing the DS's.

Congrats! A free RRC sounds about right.
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
There is nothing wrong with a driveshaft next to a catalytic converter. The problem is that sealed u-joints don't do too well that close.

Besides, is it that difficult to remove 8 nuts?
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
There is nothing wrong with a driveshaft next to a catalytic converter. The problem is that sealed u-joints don't do too well that close.

Besides, is it that difficult to remove 8 nuts?

If they were unsealed u-joints, how many rover owners would have them greased every 5k miles? I don't see a lot of soccer mom pulling up to the local jiffy-lube to make sure grease gets flushed through the 4 uj seals.

The engineers were between a rock and a hard place, put sealed units in and have them fail at around 50k, put serviceable units in and have them fail sooner if not serviced.

I agree with you, but i think from their standpoint, putting in sealed units was a better decision.

-Sam
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
Really? The sealed joints just don't hold up.

The D1 has the same catalytic converter clearance from the driveshaft as the D2. Do you ever hear issues of D1s blowing up their driveshafts? Do you think that all of the soccer moms had those lubed up every 5k?
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
You tell me. Like I said, the primary difference between a D1 and D2 is that the D2 used sealed u-joints and the D1 used a serviceable u-joint. Everything else in the front exhaust and transfer case layout is almost identical.

Somehow it smells more like a beancounter decision instead of an engineering decision. Who knows?
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
You tell me. Like I said, the primary difference between a D1 and D2 is that the D2 used sealed u-joints and the D1 used a serviceable u-joint. Everything else in the front exhaust and transfer case layout is almost identical.

Somehow it smells more like a beancounter decision instead of an engineering decision. Who knows?

Mike,

I hear you, I have just read and I am trying to find the Spicer article that mentions that a sealed(non greasable) unit outperforms a greasable unit if the greasable unit is not serviced. Talks about the seals in the nongreasable being slightly better and obviously much lower chance of abrasives getting into the UJ.

-Sam
 

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
A "free" RRC:xxrotflma It willl probably cost you more than you know!

....but yes, just unbolt the driveshafts from the diff and tie them up.
 

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