FM82 Offroad Teardrop Build

[FireMedic82]

On my last trailer I put a sheet of sheet metal on the bottom of the floor and sealed it into angle iron so it had a lip. It will be impossible for water to get through the bottom or do any damage to the plywood.

I really like that idea. Knowing what I know now, if I had of used my noodle and thought about it a little longer, I could have made the galvanized sheet bigger by 4 inches all the way around and bent it over the wooden floor and floor framing. That would have been super easy and added quite a bit more protection. Between the resin coating and trim along the bottom though, it should be just fine(fingers crossed). I'll just add that one to the memory bank for next go around

 

[skersfan]

Having the fenders where you can walk on them adds so much more use to them. I have a small box on one of mine, but still can walk on it. Makes using the roof rack far easier.

I think the resin is a great idea to. Anything to keep the water out. I use about 20 tubes of silicone on every trailer, and still could use more I guess.

I am building some skids for mine, hopefully next week. Never thought I needed them, then blew a hole in the water tank running over a sign post. Snow plow hit and cut it off. Was not a pretty site. Exploded my water tank, that had never been hit on a trail. It is a lot easier building skids when you start the trailer, than after. I am going to learn just how much fun it is. lol

 

[FireMedic82]

Hate to hear that! I bet that is going to be an interesting task building them now. I was just thinking earlier how difficult it would be to replace the tongue on mine with one that is a little heavier gauge. Maybe I'm just being paranoid. I sure don't want to have to crawl under it and take that task on.

 

[FireMedic82]

Oh, I nixed the moon roof idea, so if anyone is interested in a 18x40 picture window, I know where you can find one! I bought one with non tinted glass for "star gazing", but I'll even tint it if someone wants it.

 

[skersfan]

If you take a look around at all the major trailer manufacturers you will see they have gone away from windows on the front of the trailers, especially toy haulers. Due to the twist in the frame and the cost of making it water proof. I have one on my first Tear Drop, it worked fine until I had it tinted, then the guy cut the rubber grommet that goes around it. It will leak at the weirdest times, then not leak a drop. Frustrating. No longer putting windows where highway speed wind can affect them. My side one never has leaded a drop nor the door window, but the front has been a PIA since the second week of using the trailer. I am replacing the fiberglass on the front soon. I have the glass, just need the time to work on it. I think you are making a wise decision not to have it in the roof.

 

[FireMedic82]

Window tinting was my first job back in the day, so I know what you mean about the seal. It's nearly impossible not to cut soft rubber seals if you use the seal as a guide. Kinda like using a router bit on wood and trying not to touch your template piece lol. Glad you mentioned that about the front, because that was going to be the place I ended up putting it IF I decided to use it.

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[FireMedic82]

Didn't get much time to play today, but I did get the roof rack mounts welded in and tubing purchased for the rack support beams.



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[skersfan]

What gauge is the tongue?

Here is an idea, see if you can find a piece/even pipe that fits tightly, with a thicker wall. drill a hole for a bolt to slide through on one side, put a nut on and weld. Slide piece of steel/pipe inside, tighten bolt down on it. It will stiffen the tongue, and when moving the trailer around, or in an emergency, you slide the piece back out for more leverage to move the trailer. I am doing that with my next trailer. I use 2.5 steel for the tongue with 240 walls. Baiscally hitch stock. Also just for info sake, 093/095 will always allow the next small size to slide in, IE 1 1/4 box, will allow a 1 inch piece to slide in and fit snug. The magic thickness so to speak.

If you can make this work, be sure you grease it. I am welding an eyelet on the end so I can hook it and pull it out if need be. Or you can weld another receiver to it and drill holes through solid stock 2x2 and extend the tongue for better towing on the highway, or again leverage in emergencies.

 

[FireMedic82]

I can't remember what gauge I got for it now. The inner tubing isn't a bad idea, and I have considered that, but I wasn't sure if I could get a piece to fit snug in there and I didn't even think about round tubing. That should open my options up a little more I would imagine. Thanks for that bit of info. All it takes is a little spark to get the ol' brain back on track!

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[fireball]

Any updates?!

 

[FireMedic82]

No updates with mine yet. I'm at a stand still until I get all of the trim in to get it skinned in from the weather. The doors are completed and I'm at the point of putting cabinets and the other interior in so far. Just saving the funds to get all of the trim and hinges shipped out.

 

[BT2 Pit Snipe]

I've used the FiberFix tape for a shovel handle, and it is super strong. That handle is stronger now than even my fiberglass handle shovel. It is a lot like putting a cast on.

 

[FireMedic82]

Yeah, I did end up trying it it out. I cut an old steel hammer in half and wrapped it up. Couldn't break it as much as I tried. And yes I've broken a few bones and that's exactly what that stuff is. Same thing they use for casting up broken bones. Strong stuff for sure!

 

[Bdt211]

Any updates? That is a really nice lookin build you got goin there

 

[FireMedic82]

Thanks! And no, unfortunately I don't have any updates as of yet. I hope to get back at it soon.