Ford Transit Cab Chassis with Composite Camper

[Victorian]

Sorry after reading my message I was not super clear. I am wondering about options to have a full size pass through during the summer months, but blocking it off during the winter. A full size pass through and swivel seats is a really nice feature. Sort of a best of both worlds.

Yes I know I want my cake and to eat it too.

Not many options other than a heavy curtain... Insulating just the windows won't do much as the rest of the cab will be cold... I noticed that last week when I was out for one night. I was walking in socks in the camper, the floor in the cab was way too cold without shoes. Same goes in the summer with heat...

 

[tmandell]

What about a panel made of the same composite wall panel cut to fit the opening? Obviously the interior layout of the camper will determine if it is possible to install and remove the panel. It would suck to install and remove, but if it is only done for seasonal changes it should not be too bad.

Sorry to be a pest, my job gets crazy busy in the summer, so I have recently come to the conclusion that the best time for me to go camping is in the winter. Living in the frozen north of plant Hoth means that literally every off the shelf option for a camper is no good. It also rearranges priorities vs most builds as things like solar are essentially useless and redundant heat sources are at the top of the list.

 

[Victorian]

What about a panel made of the same composite wall panel cut to fit the opening? Obviously the interior layout of the camper will determine if it is possible to install and remove the panel. It would suck to install and remove, but if it is only done for seasonal changes it should not be too bad.

Sorry to be a pest, my job gets crazy busy in the summer, so I have recently come to the conclusion that the best time for me to go camping is in the winter. Living in the frozen north of plant Hoth means that literally every off the shelf option for a camper is no good. It also rearranges priorities vs most builds as things like solar are essentially useless and redundant heat sources are at the top of the list.

Of course you could always use one of our insulated panels. Btw, you are not the only one that is shopping for a highly insulated camper. I believe we are the only ones that offer 50mm/2" sidewalls, 84mm/3.25" roof-floor-rear and front. We could even up the game and make the sidewalls 84mm/3.25" for max thermal transfer free insulation. The tricky part would be to fit commercial available windows and doors. These are mostly designed for 50mm/2" wall thickness.... You could however install them in a 3.25" wall if you are willing to invest some time and craftsman ship for building an adapter to compensate.
In any case, thermal transfer free insulation is key for very cold climates.

Cheers,

 

[luthj]

Ducting a bit of heated air into the front cab, and having a return air path is typically enough to keep condensation to a minimum, even with extreme temps. The key is to have a small amount of air exchange between the exterior and the living space. This allows moist warm air to exit, and cool lower humidity air to enter.

 

[tmandell]

Ducting a bit of heated air into the front cab, and having a return air path is typically enough to keep condensation to a minimum, even with extreme temps. The key is to have a small amount of air exchange between the exterior and the living space. This allows moist warm air to exit, and cool lower humidity air to enter.

I don't want to sound condescending, and I am not trying to brag about who's weather is worse, but I am not sure you understand what I mean by winter camping in the frozen hell hole of Hoth. Attached are a few pictures from this January of a friends camperized cargo trailer. It is 20'x8.5'x6.5', insulated with 1" spray foam on the walls and ceiling and 3" on the floor, with a 4kw Espar air heater. It is lovely and warm (22°C) regardless of the outside temperature, but thermal bridging is a serious problem. As you can see there is thick frost buildup on any spot with less then ideal insulation, in the second picture the white spots on the wall near the floor are screws that are holding the wood wall to the rib. These photos were taken at a balmy -20°C (-4°F) meaning there is a real possibility of the temperature dropping another 25 degrees to -45°C (-49°F). This frost built up over a 24 hr test period with nobody inside the trailer, had people been living in the trailer at the time the frost would have been 5x worse.

As a result of this experience I am looking to build a camper that is suitable for use as a true 4 seasons camper in Northern Alberta.

 

[luthj]

Thats a bit colder than I expected. I still ask, how much ventilation does that trailer have? That level of frosting indicates higher humidity.

At those temps you cannot completely eliminate frost formation in the front cab. As long as there are breathing humans at least. You could try to fully isolate the front cab, with zero airflow, that would reduce it a fair bit. But every time you drive the vehicle you will warm and humidify the cab, which may create frost when it cools down.

If you expect to encounter temps colder than -10F on a regular and extended basis, using the front cab when parked is a non starter. Most vehicles simply do not have enough insulation. Even with the engine powered heater running at full you will have major cold spots near the floor.

 

[Victorian]

We camped at -18C several times. No ice anywhere with 3 people inside the camper. Only minor condensation on the window that was cracked open for fresh air.

 

[Victorian]

Test fitted the awning.

 

[Victorian]

Moving along in small steps as I’m waiting for more bits and pieces to arrive. Today I installed the last storage hatch, door and hatch holder.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Moving along in small steps as I’m waiting for more bits and pieces to arrive. Today I installed the last storage hatch, door and hatch holder.

Looks NICE and clean! Do the Arctic Tern hatches come with those hatch holders? Those are slick!!

For the love of all things holy, please for the love of humanity stop using square headed fasteners!!!

 

[Victorian]

Looks NICE and clean! Do the Arctic Tern hatches come with those hatch holders? Those are slick!!

For the love of all things holy, please for the love of humanity stop using square headed fasteners!!!

OMG, I was hoping it takes longer for people to see the screws... LOL Certainly not my first choice... My local supplier is closed and to move things forward I needed to use what I got. I actually used a piece of duct tape for a while The door holders are pretty slick indeed. When things clear up we hope to have them listed in our web store.

 

[Herbie]

For the love of all things holy, please for the love of humanity stop using square headed fasteners!!!

To each, one's own, I suppose.

My Vancouver-built 1995 LuLu Island Camper (predecessor to GTRV) was largely built with square-drive fasteners, and I have to say that when I bought it in 2010 and stripped it down for transplant onto my newer van, I was really glad for that.

With 15 years of normal (but not extreme) oxidation, etc., there were a few GM-factory Philips-head screws that were VERY hard to remove (typically where space was tight, making it hard to get a good angle to put enough pressure to keep the driver from camming-out of the screw, as it is designed to do.) With the square-drive screws, every single one came out cleanly. I like 'em, and wish more people would use them!

 

[luthj]

Torx are my favorite. Very good cam out resistance.

 

[Victorian]

Couple of updates.
tons of storage, cork flooring and wet room

 

[rruff]

With the square-drive screws, every single one came out cleanly. I like 'em, and wish more people would use them!

Better than phillips for sure...