4x4 transfer case swap is very straight forward. I was all in for less then 1000
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GM fullsize AWD Van Info thread
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Scottyrocco16vdub
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Need some help, currently on the road with the van... I had ordered all the fixings for a 2"ish lift, nothing crazy, a few months ago. Went the skyjacker route with h7003 fronts, Silverado lift keys, h7017 rears and add a leaf. Nothing is installed yet but we've been on some gnarly trails in the past few months and the lift would be very much appreciated. So I plan on installing next week when we are home for 2 weeks.
My problem is the skyjacker h7017 rear shocks did not come with the upper bar pins for mounting. Skyjacker has bar pins for sale on their site but when I called and told them my situation they were zero help. So does anyone know the size of the rear shock bar pins? I haven't been able to find it anywhere on the web. I'd like to get this ordered before I start replacing the suspension so I don't have to wait for them to come in.
My problem is the skyjacker h7017 rear shocks did not come with the upper bar pins for mounting. Skyjacker has bar pins for sale on their site but when I called and told them my situation they were zero help. So does anyone know the size of the rear shock bar pins? I haven't been able to find it anywhere on the web. I'd like to get this ordered before I start replacing the suspension so I don't have to wait for them to come in.
Following up on this as I needed new shocks with a fresh set of tires. I reached out to Boulder Off Road and the set of 4 modified 5125's were $550 + shipping. They replaced the 5100's I had installed when I lifted the van. The 5125's feel good but they're also new. I'll have to trust BOR they are a better choice for heavier lifted vans.
I'm sorry if I'm too late to help regarding the Skyjacker shock bar pins, but I used the 3.5" BP8 pins with the red bushings (SKU BP8; UPC 803696203720) I've added a pic to show the pin length from my old shocks. The company got them to me quickly. Hope this helps.
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Inspired Adventurist
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Well...It's done! Before and after shots of the Boulder Off-road Pro-Runner Plus Kit (Bilstein 5100's all around, plus 1300lbs stronger leaf springs). The van had clearly not had any suspension work done in 20yrs, and my poor mechanic had to battle the thing for 2.5days to get everything installed (torches, sledgehammers, and air chisels), and to handle a set of other work (ball joints, shackle links, oil change, etc, etc). This was definitely a buy once, cry once investment. Thankfully, I can say, that the work and the outcome was totally worth it. It's literally feels like a brand new van. The steering is tight, it rides silent and smooth - no clanks/bangs/jangles when I hit bumps, no rear end squat, body roll is gone in turns and when passed by semi's, and oddly enough, I'm getting 1 mpg better gas mileage (This one makes no sense, but I'll take it).
I wish I had the skill to do this kind of work myself, maybe on a newer less crusty van, but having it done by a professional was critical to this coming together. I wish I would have done it sooner.
Now onto ripping off fiberglass body foolishness and body work. I would have gotten more work done by now, but I use it too much for skiing and mtn biking. Best problem to have!
I wish I had the skill to do this kind of work myself, maybe on a newer less crusty van, but having it done by a professional was critical to this coming together. I wish I would have done it sooner.
Now onto ripping off fiberglass body foolishness and body work. I would have gotten more work done by now, but I use it too much for skiing and mtn biking. Best problem to have!
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Inspired Adventurist
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Now that some of the core ride quality work is complete, I'm turning my attention to a couple other issues, and would appreciate guidance.
- I need to purchase my headlight assemblies. Any recommendations for a decent aftermarket upgrade? I have the big blocky looking lights rather than the square pods.
- I'd like to install a moderate in size but strong bull bar (Prefer to not replace the full bumper). I end up driving around a lot at first light/dusk/night since I fish/ski/mtn bike, and often shift locations each day. Even with the light bar on, I've come way too close on several occasions to t-boning a deer. Beefing up the forward strike zone would give me a little peace of mind that I won't get stranded in the middle of winter roasting fresh road kill while waiting for tow.
- Any recommendations for a front hitch? Boulder Off-Road has an option, but I'd prefer to find something more broadly available without having to pay for shipping.
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Well… the original transfer case blew its rear seal so had a brand new AWD drive one installed to the tune of $3800. I had the mechanic overfill the transfer case by a quart as referenced by that GM TSB another member dug up. Last night I was headed to the Mojave Desert from Flagstaff (downhill) and wife radios from truck behind me that the van is smoking! After pulling over and inspecting I see that the undercarriage is coated in tranny fluid and it seems to be coming from the top of the transmission. I check the level and it is good. We get turned around and drive the van back up the big and long hill to Flagstaff with no problems, shifts fine, no lights, fluid level remains stable. What the heck?!
$600 later the transmission got a new filter and fluid and new fittings on the coolant line where the leak happened Up high on the passenger side. I had the “tow/haul‘‘ button engaged when the tranny blew the fluid out the fittings. Two mechanics agreed that driving with that button engaged is a good idea when loaded down and should keep the temp down in the transmission. I don’t normally use it and this was the first time I used it for an extended period at freeway speeds. Headed out tomorrow with fingers crossed and ass puckered.
Perhaps check the manual, thinking the tow/haul button restricts use of overdrive. So if you are on the interstate or flat/downhill highway, you could decide to kick out of tow/haul if you want to take advantage of higher gearing/higher speeds. I usually stay in drive on most highways, unless on a long stretch of flat/downhill road. What other benefits occur in tow/haul mode? Does the trans cooler operate differently?
Tow haul mode changes the shifting points as well as locking out overdrive. Somewhere in this thread, a person pointed out that they were disappointed, as they felt no discernible difference with it on. I can certainly tell when my tow/haul mode is engaged, as it holds 1/2 and 2/3 shifts quite a bit longer, resulting in firmer shifts. I think the idea is less transmission “searching”, lesser shifting equaling less heat and therefore less wear on transmission components. JMHO
Inspired Adventurist
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Avogt
New member
Yup I need shocks.
Suggestions for upgraded shocks.
No lift, modifications.
Direct bolt in.
I have not found any concrete confirmation that bilstein will fit.
Maybe 5100 rear, 4600 front.
But do shocks need to match?
Valving etc.
Any suggestions for stock shock upgrades appreciated
Suggestions for upgraded shocks.
No lift, modifications.
Direct bolt in.
I have not found any concrete confirmation that bilstein will fit.
Maybe 5100 rear, 4600 front.
But do shocks need to match?
Valving etc.
Any suggestions for stock shock upgrades appreciated
