Good Solar gen Power Stations for DC and light AC Truck Campers

[Dave in AZ]

It’s easy enough to add an inverter either through the 50amp Anderson, or directly to the battery inside if you’re gonna need to draw more that 50amps. I had one for awhile, but took it out and am very happy to lose the weight and added complexity of systems.

IMO, unless you fall into the “gotta cook all electric” camp or want to run electric heat or AC and carry a massive amount of AHs for that, one doesn’t really *need* an inverter. There’s nothing wrong with any of that approach, but I’m happiest with minimal weight and gear that keeps me comfortable.

I have and use 12v: heating pad, electric blanket, 2 small fans + the Max fan. All my charging is USB off the house battery, my WeBoost is 12v, my heater is propane and 12v. I do carry an old, small 300 watt inverter with a 12v plug that I have used just once in 90+ trips, but just in case for a couple re-chargeable things I use to manage a bad back. My saw for trimming is a manual Japanese Silky saw that’s fast and easy. If I need drill driver or power saw, I have battery Ryobi ones that they make a 12v charger for, but I never do. I find it worth while, but YMMV depending on camping and exploring style.

All good info, and this no AC style works for a lot of folks. HOWEVER...
"Good Solar gen powerstations for DC and Light AC truck campers" is my focus on this thread It's a lot of posts, so easy to lose sight of my start, here it is just to remind you on why my posts here all lean away from dc only battery boxes etc:

"Like I said in my Opening Post:
This thread is to help consolidate info on what solar generators also called power stations, will work well for small truck popup campers who plan on using some light 120Vac cooking tools (like Tune M1, OVRLND, AT Summit, GoFast, Topo Toppers, Project M, Hiatus, LonePeak, Super Pacific, etc.) Many power stations have poor DC outputs or solar inputs for this use or can't support normal light AC appliances used for cooking.

Please note, THIS thread is for the GOOD or BEST ONES, not ones you could maybe eke by on if you didn't use any AC power device ever and scrimp hard. Anything will work for that, [...] so this thread is for buying stuff that future proofs you in case you someday want to boil with a small electric kettle, say. Certainly you could minimalist camp with any power station, but this thread IS NOT FOR THAT.

(Again, If you don't ever want to run 1000-1500w 120Vac, or a diesel heater+ lights +fans, then any 500wh or more small power station will work fine. Or for self built, a 100Ah 12v Lifepo4 battery, dc fuseblock, 1000w inverter, and dcdc with mppt charger.)
---------

The battery boxes that @dstefan mentioned can work ok with a separate inverter, like he said he used to use, but my specs here were for 1800W min or so, allowing an 1800W electric kettle, maybe a 700W microwave or a 1800W induction cooktop as option. But his usage info is great for folks reading this, wondering what they might end up using, and how much AC they really need.

(@dstefan , I appreciate your input and it is valuable for folks, keep posting! I'm just clarifying my slant here. )

 

[ITTOG]

It’s easy enough to add an inverter either through the 50amp Anderson, or directly to the battery inside if you’re gonna need to draw more that 50amps. I had one for awhile, but took it out and am very happy to lose the weight and added complexity of systems.

IMO, unless you fall into the “gotta cook all electric” camp or want to run electric heat or AC and carry a massive amount of AHs for that, one doesn’t really *need* an inverter. There’s nothing wrong with any of that approach, but I’m happiest with minimal weight and gear that keeps me comfortable.

I have and use 12v: heating pad, electric blanket, 2 small fans + the Max fan. All my charging is USB off the house battery, my WeBoost is 12v, my heater is propane and 12v. I do carry an old, small 300 watt inverter with a 12v plug that I have used just once in 90+ trips, but just in case for a couple re-chargeable things I use to manage a bad back. My saw for trimming is a manual Japanese Silky saw that’s fast and easy. If I need drill driver or power saw, I have battery Ryobi ones that they make a 12v charger for, but I never do. I find it worth while, but YMMV depending on camping and exploring style.

I guess I need to create a list of what I need to power. This is it and the longest I have stayed out is eight days. Once I retire it will be longer.
12V
Cell phones
Drone
Never needed yet but I do use two TENS units for hips and back when driving over two hours.
Camper Lights
MaxxAir Fan (eventually)
Laptop on rare occasion. Only once in 20 years.
Eventually a diesel or propane heater. Right now I just use a Mr Buddy.
I have never done it but have thought about connecting my RV two camera system to the camper for surveillance at night. It is 12V.
Eventually a fridge.

120V
I guess if I had AC, I might choose to begin using a kettle instead of my Coleman two burner stove.
I have never needed to but possibly charge dewalt power tool batteries if needed on multiweek trips.

I need to add up all the power usage for these items.

All good info, and this no AC style works for a lot of folks. HOWEVER...
"Good Solar gen powerstations for DC and Light AC truck campers" is my focus on this thread It's a lot of posts, so easy to lose sight of my start, here it is just to remind you on why my posts here all lean away from dc only battery boxes etc:

"Like I said in my Opening Post:
This thread is to help consolidate info on what solar generators also called power stations, will work well for small truck popup campers who plan on using some light 120Vac cooking tools (like Tune M1, OVRLND, AT Summit, GoFast, Topo Toppers, Project M, Hiatus, LonePeak, Super Pacific, etc.) Many power stations have poor DC outputs or solar inputs for this use or can't support normal light AC appliances used for cooking.

Please note, THIS thread is for the GOOD or BEST ONES, not ones you could maybe eke by on if you didn't use any AC power device ever and scrimp hard. Anything will work for that, [...] so this thread is for buying stuff that future proofs you in case you someday want to boil with a small electric kettle, say. Certainly you could minimalist camp with any power station, but this thread IS NOT FOR THAT.

(Again, If you don't ever want to run 1000-1500w 120Vac, or a diesel heater+ lights +fans, then any 500wh or more small power station will work fine. Or for self built, a 100Ah 12v Lifepo4 battery, dc fuseblock, 1000w inverter, and dcdc with mppt charger.)
---------

The battery boxes that @dstefan mentioned can work ok with a separate inverter, like he said he used to use, but my specs here were for 1800W min or so, allowing an 1800W electric kettle, maybe a 700W microwave or a 1800W induction cooktop as option. But his usage info is great for folks reading this, wondering what they might end up using, and how much AC they really need.

(@dstefan , I appreciate your input and it is valuable for folks, keep posting! I'm just clarifying my slant here. )

Based on your reviews, I am looking at one of the Pecron units. I agree with your requirement "3. Good high Amp DC output, so that Max loads can be run off DC without invertor loss or noise.". I know I don't really identify a need for the AC but I do like the flexibility of a power station since I could use it in the house in the event of a power outage, which happens a lot in TX. It's portability will make it dual purpose and increase it value.

The more I think about it, at least at this point, the more I like having a power station and a 12V battery box. Still a lot of planning to do though.

 

[Dave in AZ]

Right now for me, the only real 120V use I do, and feel I would always do, is the electric kettle for coffee etc. I like using my Coleman propane 2 burner, and I also like my backup small dual fuel Sportster. But the ease and speed of the elec kettle in the morning for coffee is just so fantastic, I won't likely go back to gas/propane for coffee... but I certainly could get by with no AC use, really, like @dstefan does.

But I'm having fun with an induction cooktop and even a super small microwave, and since I camp then drive around every day, my dcdc alternator charger easily supplies all battery needs. I still bring my propane and stove though... mostly solo camping so I have the room.

 

[67cj5]

This thread is to help consolidate info on what solar generators also called power stations, will work well for small truck popup campers who plan on using some light 120Vac cooking tools (like Tune M1, OVRLND, AT Summit, GoFast, Topo Toppers, Project M, Hiatus, LonePeak, Super Pacific, etc.) Many power stations have poor DC outputs or solar inputs
GOOD ONES
1. Pecron e1500LFP. My choice. 1536Wh, 2200w Inverter, 800w solar at 32-95v and 12-25v, 2 mppt controllers, xt60 30A dc output at 13.4v.

2. Bluetti AC200Max

3. Bluetti ac200P, has 25A 12v dc
4. Oupes Mega2, 30A 12v anderson port.
5. Dabbson 2300plus. 30A 12v anderson.
6. Growatt infinity 2000. 30A 12v Anderson. See post below for links to 2 reviews, one positive and one negative, by top power station Youtubers.
7. Pecron e3600LFP. 79 lbs but does it all, for more power use.
8. Pecron E2400LFP. Same as e1500LFP except 200W more inverter, 512Wh more battery, 5 lbs more. Other input output are same including solar and 12vdc 30A.

NOT THESE ONES:

Not Bluetti AC200L, no good dc ports, no 30A
Not Bluetti AC180 or 180P, no 30A port, no good dc ports

Not Ecoflow Delta Pro, its 30a port doesn't work

EcoFlow Delta Pro - Anderson port power output

Hi all, the EcoFlow Delta Pro's Anderson port should have up to 378W output power (12,6V DC, 30A), according to the specs. So I was thinking it might be worth to use it for powering low loads instead of using the integrated inverter (which has a high self-consumption of 40-50W and a sub-par...

diysolarforum.com

Not Yeti Goal Zero1500x, it is Lithium ion NMC and 50v max charge inputs... old tech and expensive, much better out there!

NOT the Ecoflow Delta 2 Max, it only has a 10A cigar lighter output for 126W, and some 3A 5521 barrel plugs for 38W. The USB A and C all are 5v, or must negotiate with a smart chipped device to negotiate higher 12v, so not available to run LEDs, fans, etc.

NOT the Ecoflow Delta 2. It has only low amp dc outputs: 1 car port 10A, 2x 5521 barrel ports 3A. It has 2x usb A, 2x usb QC, 1x USB-C 100w. Can't run a diesel heater off it.

It's funny how you tell people the AC180 and AC180P and the AC200L are not Good When they are the Number One Selling and most wanted Sogens on the Market Globally,

yet on your "Good" list two of them have them worst parasitic consumption of any Sogens made as well has having poor usable capacities because of the screens although they are good they waste a lot of power but you say your No Name Newbies are the way to go even though they have only been on the market a year or two and as of yet are un proven.

Another point your missing is that a Portable Sogen does not need to have a 25/30A outlet, But more important to Note is that Only the US uses the 25/30 and 50A Sockets the Rest of the 200+ Countries around the world do not,

Like it or Not the AC180 and the AC180P are the fastest selling and Most In Demand Sogens since the release of the EB150/240's, The fact is the AC180/AC180P will power just about everything found in 99.9% of Homes, Using either of the AC180's is as close to using Grid power as it gets, they just work,

Compared to the first three models of the 200 series the AC180's are easier to live with due to being lighter and fast charging and are straight forward no messing design, Having Owned many many Sogens the AC180 and the AC180P are the easiest to live with 24/7/365, And can be expanded to as big as you want, I have gone on road trips using 2X 512wh Sogens and I only used One the whole time I was away for weeks at a time running a Fridge and watching TV and charging phones at night or running a PC/Laptop ect, When it comes to size the AC180 models have more than enough power to last for weeks if you charge when driving or use a Solar panel or Two.

What ever brand a person chooses is a personal thing beit size, cost or features but rest assured the AC180/AC180P are among the best Sogens ever made bar none.

 

[Dave in AZ]

It's funny how you tell people the AC180 and AC180P and the AC200L are not Good When they are the Number One Selling and most wanted Sogens on the Market Globally,

yet on your "Good" list two of them have them worst parasitic consumption of any Sogens made as well has having poor usable capacities because of the screens although they are good they waste a lot of power but you say your No Name Newbies are the way to go even though they have only been on the market a year or two and as of yet are un proven.

Another point your missing is that a Portable Sogen does not need to have a 25/30A outlet, But more important to Note is that Only the US uses the 25/30 and 50A Sockets the Rest of the 200+ Countries around the world do not,

Like it or Not the AC180 and the AC180P are the fastest selling and Most In Demand Sogens since the release of the EB150/240's, The fact is the AC180/AC180P will power just about everything found in 99.9% of Homes, Using either of the AC180's is as close to using Grid power as it gets, they just work,

Compared to the first three models of the 200 series the AC180's are easier to live with due to being lighter and fast charging and are straight forward no messing design, Having Owned many many Sogens the AC180 and the AC180P are the easiest to live with 24/7/365, And can be expanded to as big as you want, I have gone on road trips using 2X 512wh Sogens and I only used One the whole time I was away for weeks at a time running a Fridge and watching TV and charging phones at night or running a PC/Laptop ect, When it comes to size the AC180 models have more than enough power to last for weeks if you charge when driving or use a Solar panel or Two.

What ever brand a person chooses is a personal thing beit size, cost or features but rest assured the AC180/AC180P are among the best Sogens ever made bar none.

You obviously did not read a single word of the opening post on the purpose of this thread. I'm super happy you love your ac180 and it works great for your house 24/7/365. Yeahh...this thread isnt for that, it is for truck campers. I listed the criteria on what was required to make this list in the OP, and why, which you ALSO didn't read or pay attention to.

Selling the most powerstations of a type in the world is completely meaningless To this thread's purpose, as 99.9% of all sales ARE NOT FOR TRUCK CAMPING WITH LIGHT AC USE.

You also listed what power items you used while camping in truck, and it is EXACTLY WHAT I ALSO SAID THIS THREAD WAS NOT FOR. You didn't list or use a single item that drives the criteria for this thread. No fuseblock, no 1800W electric kettle, no 1800W induction cooktop, no 15A required diesel heater while ALSO running a fridge and lights and fan thus driving 20-30A 12v requirement.

You should probably reread the 1st post.

 

[67cj5]

You obviously did not read a single word of the opening post on the purpose of this thread. I'm super happy you love your ac180 and it works great for your house 24/7/365. Yeahh...this thread isnt for that, it is for truck campers. I listed the criteria on what was required to make this list in the OP, and why, which you ALSO didn't read or pay attention to.

Selling the most powerstations of a type in the world is completely meaningless To this thread's purpose, as 99.9% of all sales ARE NOT FOR TRUCK CAMPING WITH LIGHT AC USE.

You also listed what power items you used while camping in truck, and it is EXACTLY WHAT I ALSO SAID THIS THREAD WAS NOT FOR. You didn't list or use a single item that drives the criteria for this thread. No fuseblock, no 1800W electric kettle, no 1800W induction cooktop, no 15A required diesel heater while ALSO running a fridge and lights and fan thus driving 20-30A 12v requirement.

You should probably reread the 1st post.

I did read it, But when you say Truck Campers Are you talking about the Slide On Campers or similar?. And I do use small to medium Sogens in my Van/MPV/Camper or my RV Trailer as well as at home and I use them for running AC everything, The chances are if it is in "Your" Home then I have a Low Watt version in my MPV/Van

I have 11+ Sogens Not just the AC180 models, but I don't see why 99% of Sogens under 2000wh would not work in truck campers, It's not about brands, there are many good brands on the market, The AC series are a bit big for the limited space of a truck camper such as the big Pecron As nice as it is the 1500wh model would be my pick out of all the ones you listed.

If I was using just 12v then I would be using one you most likely have never seen or used due to the Car friendly charging and it having 2X 15A 12v outlets with a capacity of 512wh. Another thing is because in a vehicle you are travelling a lot that means you can get away with using a much smaller Sogen where something like the Bluetti AC70P would be a good option because it has a 864wh battery and a 1000w/2000w Inverter which can be expanded if needed, Where as the AC180's phsyical size might be a bit too big for inside a truck camper where space is a premium.

I have quite a few Sogens but for Vehicular Travel I find that smaller Sogens are the way to go, I have Sogens from 500wh right up to 2400wh But most of the time I grab one of the smaller ones and sometimes I might take a larger one as a backup if the weather turns nasty and the Solar doesn't work.

 

[Dave in AZ]

New video from Jasonoid which discusses exactly why this thread exists. Here he talks about the lack of high power dc outlets on many stations.

Again from my opening post where I add up all the concurrent 12vdc use you might do at once while truck camping, I use 30A 12vdc output as a criteria. Reread post #1 for folks to see what that item usage is.

 

[67cj5]

 

[Dave in AZ]

I get the point but again only the US seems to use the 30/50A sockets, most of us prefer just to take the power indoors and use it straight from the source/Sogen, There is a couple of reasons for that, 1) is leaving it out in the weather, and 2) risk of theft from leaving it outside etc,

People need to buy which ever model suits their needs, But we also need to remember that if we go too big or too many they then become a problem when it comes to storage and battery life, Leave them charged too high when in storage and they start to degrade or loose cycle life, or they just become a pain to maintain them as the conpanies surgest,

Dude... I'm wasn't talking to you or replying to you here. This thread is obviously not for you. You are just trashing it up, completely ignoring everything I posted in #1 for the criteria, and just arguing pointlessly! If YOU don't want a 30A dc port, or want to use 1800W AC devices while truck camping fine, move along.

 

[oldnslow]

I don't need additioal power as much as I want more reliability. Those 12V ciggy ports tend to back out and lose connection in a moving vehicle. They were never intended as a power port, they were designed many decades ago for lighting cigarettes! The XT60 is the best connector for low voltage / high current that is readily available from what I've seen. I am a fan of Anderson connectors but many will probably not have the tooling or knowledge to make custom cables. I do so that is what I mostly use.

 

[Dave in AZ]

I don't need additioal power as much as I want more reliability. Those 12V ciggy ports tend to back out and lose connection in a moving vehicle. They were never intended as a power port, they were designed many decades ago for lighting cigarettes! The XT60 is the best connector for low voltage / high current that is readily available from what I've seen. I am a fan of Anderson connectors but many will probably not have the tooling or knowledge to make custom cables. I do so that is what I mostly use.

Definitely! Every cigarette port I've used comes loose! My silly 12v blanket constantly stops working at night, I need to chop that port off and use an xt60.

I have a bunch of xt60 connectors, problem with them is you have to solder and the heat is enough to melt or warp the plastic, if you don't know what you're doing and use a heat sink to grip it... a lot of folks can't solder these days. So Anderson PowerPole with a cheap crimper can be easier for sure!

 

[ITTOG]

I don't need additioal power as much as I want more reliability. Those 12V ciggy ports tend to back out and lose connection in a moving vehicle. They were never intended as a power port, they were designed many decades ago for lighting cigarettes! The XT60 is the best connector for low voltage / high current that is readily available from what I've seen. I am a fan of Anderson connectors but many will probably not have the tooling or knowledge to make custom cables. I do so that is what I mostly use.

Definitely! Every cigarette port I've used comes loose! My silly 12v blanket constantly stops working at night, I need to chop that port off and use an xt60.

I have a bunch of xt60 connectors, problem with them is you have to solder and the heat is enough to melt or warp the plastic, if you don't know what you're doing and use a heat sink to grip it... a lot of folks can't solder these days. So Anderson PowerPole with a cheap crimper can be easier for sure!

I don't see a mechanical connector on the XT60's. Look like just a friction fit? Have you not had these disconnect?

 

[Dave in AZ]

I don't see a mechanical connector on the XT60's. Look like just a friction fit? Have you not had these disconnect?

You're correct, it is a friction fit... but a real solid d one. Xt60 is basically used for most all remote model cars and airplanes, so things that need a solid hookup. I DO wish it had some kinda locking click, but no DC really does. Car port, 5521, 5525, all usb, 8mm, none have a locking click. Not sure if Anderson do, my big sb50 ones don't really seem to, just huge friction? Maybe the metal tongues lock...