Great White: A Chevy K10 Build

[Ouiwee]

I ordered aluminum tube for the roof rack. I guess that is the next fabrication project.

I still have to convert the fuel system to in-tank pumps for all tanks. I have a start on the valves required to run 3 fuel tanks.

 

[Ouiwee]

I finally got round to fabricating a box to hold the 6-port valves. I wanted to centralize the valves and protect them from heat and water. I'll mount it under the bed behind the cross member that holds the rear of the cab. Ordinarily I would not use worm clamps, but at most we are talking 10 psi and it makes servicing the valves straightforward.



There are 6 inputs (feed and return for each of 3 fuel tanks) and two outputs.







I have to figure out how to do the electrical in/out and sort out the wiring itself. I'll fit a heat shield on the bottom of the box since the exhaust will be directly below it. This set up will allow me to cycle between 3 fuel tanks by switching supply lines, return lines, and fuel level sender wire.

I've got the new pumps and hangers for the saddle tanks. Wiring is what remains...and removing the bed to get to it all.

 

[Ouiwee]

Okay, so I was bored and decided to pull off at a construction site. Here it is with a rear tire just barely on the ground.



Full stuff on the driver side.



The 35's just barely clear...it's as low as I can keep it and get it to all work.

As it sits, the rear wheel is just about off the ground.



Now where is all that square body frame twist??


The new Garmin GPS is what can be seen through the rear glass. It finally came in stock.

 

[Buddha.]

Ordinarily I would not use worm clamps, but at most we are talking 10 psi and it makes servicing the valves straightforward.

What kind of clamps do you prefer?

 

[Ouiwee]

What kind of clamps do you prefer?

Oetiker clamps would be my preference with a barb fitting as in this case but they are not reusable. I think AN fittings are best all around especially with stainless hard lines where possible.

 

[Ouiwee]

I have a design together and some parts cut. There will be a lot of welding on this project.



The truck is tall enough. I'm attempting to keep the tent, which is roughly 14" thick, from sticking up too far. The truck barely fits in parking garages as it stands...

 

[Ouiwee]

I moved the ball forward a smidge today. Here one can see the geometry--it has a 20 degree inward slant. The angle from the top down is 45 degrees. The total height above the side rails is 18".



It's nice to have the army truck for test fitting everything. The sides of the bed are covered with a 3" angle that will have foam on the inside and bottom to keep the paint intact.





And some welding done after work.



The primary purpose is to mount a tent above. I reckon there would be room for some side compartments for storing things. I could also fabricate a floor since I have 1/4" angle on which to bolt or weld whatever needs be. There should be storage on top as well, depending on where the tent is placed (96 inch bed with the tailgate closed).

 

[Ouiwee]

I know this thread has become solipsistic, but I don't have a good reason for preferring 5 ribs at 24" centers versus 4 with the inner ribs to allow 24" between them on the end and 40" between them in the middle. I guess it would hold more weight with 5 ribs instead of 4.

What say you out there?

 

[bknudtsen]

How much weight do you think you’d put up that high? I think 4 is more than adequate. Makes reaching through from the sides easier as well.

 

[Ouiwee]

How much weight do you think you’d put up that high? I think 4 is more than adequate. Makes reaching through from the sides easier as well.

I reckon 200 lbs for the tent + two people or so. Maybe 500 lbs total? I decided to go with 5 just for the hell of it.

I welded two 'ribs' on there and checked for deflection under load. They don't seem to move much at all.






It takes all the power my welder can muster for the 1/4" angle. I'm laying it on thick.




I decided to leave 24" between the first two ribs behind the cab. The remaining 3 ribs have 20.5" between them.

I'm inclined to build some lockers on either side in the first 24" space with pop up doors.

 

[bknudtsen]

I’d keep the lockers on the driver’s side only. Passenger side visibility is terrible on these trucks, even with a convex mirror. Having clear sight lines out the passenger side of the rear window was a must in my truck.

 

[Ouiwee]

I have a place for a light that didn't work anywhere else.



These stupid parts that I don't know that I even need took hours to make. I still need to weld the insides.



If an awning ever presents itself, I have a means to attach it.



I'm held up for lack of square tube. I can work on some tie down points and lift points until I have the material to make real progress.

 

[Ouiwee]

I’d keep the lockers on the driver’s side only. Passenger side visibility is terrible on these trucks, even with a convex mirror. Having clear sight lines out the passenger side of the rear window was a must in my truck.

A convex mirror is toast with anything on that side, sure enough. I have a Garmin GPS that allows up to 3 cameras (as I recall), but that is anything but a simple solution.

 

[Ouiwee]

The above will have a solid bottom (diamond plate?) and serve as a shelf.

 

[Ouiwee]

I got some tabs and parts made. The bottom right brackets are for mounting antennas.



I ordered the RotoPax tanks and mounts today. I should have the materials I need to move forward by the end of the week.

I'm contemplating the iKamper Skycamp 2.0 since there is plenty of room up top for a larger tent. It is 54" wide and the rack at the top is 52" and I'll have roughly a foot of leftover space lengthwise. The rack sits about 78" above the ground and the ladder goes to 90".