Since this is still the closest thing to a 'build thread' here for me -
Finally getting around to installing some of the parts I've been accruing the last few months. Today it was installing the replacement taller rear coil spring spacers to raise the rear end of the vehicle. And making a corresponding adjustment to the already-installed aftermarket torsion bar keys, to raise the front to match.
Got to use my recently purchased 3 Ton floorjack, made light work of the big Suburban. I used a chunk of 4x6 as an added spacer, on top of the jack's 18"+ of rise, to really get the *** of the Sub in the air. Heavy duty jackstands were set just forward of the rear trailing arm pivots / mounts. The trailing arms will NOT take the weight of the vehicle. They'll fold right up. A replacement is $35 from RockAuto.
Just as an aside, at full droop, everything still attached, the rear sway bar just clear the rear axle cover by about 1/4". If you go for a thicker / armored / cooling fin rear cover, you will probably have clearance issues at max extension.
Wheels off, all the linkages disconnected - stab bar end links, shocks, panhard bar. Started lowering things fully on the floorjack and noticed in time that things were starting to hang from the brake lines. Ungood.
Last time I did this procedure, I noted the stock coils were a bit different in height, the driver side being a bit more 'crushed', with the driver and fuel tank on that side all the time. But I neglected to swap them side to side. This time I am. Here they are removed and switched, before re-install. The level across the top accentuates the height difference. It was about 3/16" with the springs side by side.
Here's the new 2" iron spacers, next to the 3/4" pieces that were first installed.
Here's the spring mounting location, that's the end of the fuel tank in the background. The springs appear symmetrical, top and bottom, like they can go either way, so do the footings for the springs. I initially wanted to put the spacer to the top, as I did wtih the 3/4" but trying to juggle it all and force the stack in with the axle hanging at its limit was beyond my patience. So the spacers are on the bottom, where I can keep tabs on them easier, anyway.
I ended up with only an 1/8" difference between the rear sides, after swapping the springs. Much better than last time.
Took it (and the dogs) out on an errand to exercise the suspension, settle things in, before making the torsion adjustments back at home. I put 5 full turns on the torsion key adjustment bolts, raising the nose to about a 1/2" of rake, measured at the top of th e wheel well openings centered over the wheel hubs.
This pic was before that adjustment and the angle really makes the Sub *** look fat.
I also installed the rear shock boots while they were dismounted.
Next week, after the rain, I'm tearing up the front end for tie rod end armor, front shock boots, probably front brake pads, possibly ball joints (probably due by now and no better time, since I'll be taking it in for alignment afterward).
I also need to change my brake pads again, been a little over 2 years since I got the vehicle, not quite 13k mi. I inspected the brakes when I first got it, rotors were in ok shape, pads were about done, so I elected just to install new low-grade pads and clean up / grease the rest. And get rid of the factory torx-drive caliper bolts. Those pads are worn now. Wear indicators started dragging a few days ago. Inspection of the rears today showed their indicators almost in contact. Noise is coming from front right. Rough look thru the rim with a flashlight, they look thin too.
I am giving serious consideration to an upgrade to GMT-900 front brakes. So it's likely just another set of cheap pads for now. I really ought to have the discs cut this time, but my local shysters will either refuse or cut them so they MUST be replaced next time.
Maybe I'll put new discs on the rear, and leave the front discs as they are while I decide about the upgrade.