Hodakaguy's 4x4 Sprinter Build
- Thread starter Hodakaguy
- Start date
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Amazing work, thanks for sharing all the little details, wish I could've convinced you to build 2 at the same time!
Thanks Mate......Oh for the right price I could make another one lol. ?
Hodakaguy.
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
fireball
Explorer
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Installing the trim rings on the Fans.
I ordered aftermarket Black trim rings from RB components to replace the white units that came with the fans. I like the looks of the black trim as it ties into the black light switches.
Fan unit ready for a trim ring.
Black and white trims rings...figured I would put them both up into place and see which one I like the best.
White....
Black...
And one of each...
Yep....I like the black trim rings! Now to install them for good.
Time to clean up the rear wiring. The factory runs the rear taillight wiring harness down the face of the pillar and then into the cavity at the first large opening. This creates a problem when trying to make a panel to cover the rear area as you have to work around the wiring harness. Time to move the wiring out of the way and make room for panels....
Here's a shot of the factory taillight wiring harness....Yep, in the way!
To pull the wiring harness out of the pillar the wires need to be removed from the factory connectors. Here the taillight connector has been unplugged from the passenger side taillight and I used my phone to make a quick wiring diagram so I can ensure the wires get replaced in the proper order.
Using a set of pin release tools to remove each pin from the connector. There is a small lock on each side of the connector and you need to apply pressure on both sides of the connector at the same time to get it to release. If you don't have a set of pin release tools they are super handy and very affordable. Pin Release tools available here: CLICK HERE
First carefully pry up the lock tab on each side with a thin screw driver and lift the tab up out of the way.
Then slide in the pin release tool on each side of the connector. Push to release while keeping tension on the wire and it will slide out the back of the connector.
And removed. You can see the two little catches on the top and bottom of the connector. The tool releases the catch on each side that grab onto these tabs.
There are two more connectors on each side above the taillight that you need to remove in the same fashion.
Connectors removed and the wiring harness has been pulled out of the pillar.
Continued Below....
I ordered aftermarket Black trim rings from RB components to replace the white units that came with the fans. I like the looks of the black trim as it ties into the black light switches.
Fan unit ready for a trim ring.
Black and white trims rings...figured I would put them both up into place and see which one I like the best.
White....
Black...
And one of each...
Yep....I like the black trim rings! Now to install them for good.
Time to clean up the rear wiring. The factory runs the rear taillight wiring harness down the face of the pillar and then into the cavity at the first large opening. This creates a problem when trying to make a panel to cover the rear area as you have to work around the wiring harness. Time to move the wiring out of the way and make room for panels....
Here's a shot of the factory taillight wiring harness....Yep, in the way!
To pull the wiring harness out of the pillar the wires need to be removed from the factory connectors. Here the taillight connector has been unplugged from the passenger side taillight and I used my phone to make a quick wiring diagram so I can ensure the wires get replaced in the proper order.
Using a set of pin release tools to remove each pin from the connector. There is a small lock on each side of the connector and you need to apply pressure on both sides of the connector at the same time to get it to release. If you don't have a set of pin release tools they are super handy and very affordable. Pin Release tools available here: CLICK HERE
First carefully pry up the lock tab on each side with a thin screw driver and lift the tab up out of the way.
Then slide in the pin release tool on each side of the connector. Push to release while keeping tension on the wire and it will slide out the back of the connector.
And removed. You can see the two little catches on the top and bottom of the connector. The tool releases the catch on each side that grab onto these tabs.
There are two more connectors on each side above the taillight that you need to remove in the same fashion.
Connectors removed and the wiring harness has been pulled out of the pillar.
Continued Below....
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Continued From Above....
I'll be routing the wiring back into the pillar up high and out of the way of the panels. Here I'm using a Unibit to open up the small factory hole to accept the wiring harness through.
Next slide a rubber grommet up the wiring harness and then slide the harness into the new hole and back down the pillar.
Just slide the wires back into the connectors and they instantly lock back into place.
And...no more wiring in the way
Process was repeated on the drivers side.
Wiring now enters the pillar behind the wood fir strip.
Next up installing more panels...
Screw installed to mark the location where I decided to install another power port in the drivers side rear ceiling panel.
Cutting and drilling the hole for the power port. Again using a heat gun to seal the edges of the fabric.
Power port wired in.
Continued Below....
I'll be routing the wiring back into the pillar up high and out of the way of the panels. Here I'm using a Unibit to open up the small factory hole to accept the wiring harness through.
Next slide a rubber grommet up the wiring harness and then slide the harness into the new hole and back down the pillar.
Just slide the wires back into the connectors and they instantly lock back into place.
And...no more wiring in the way
Process was repeated on the drivers side.
Wiring now enters the pillar behind the wood fir strip.
Next up installing more panels...
Screw installed to mark the location where I decided to install another power port in the drivers side rear ceiling panel.
Cutting and drilling the hole for the power port. Again using a heat gun to seal the edges of the fabric.
Power port wired in.
Continued Below....
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Continued from above....
Panels going up. Velcro is installed on the back side of the panels and stapled in place. There will be 3 screws per panel as well as the Velcro for a nice tight fit.
Using matching colored Snap Caps for a finished Look. Snap Caps Available Here: CLICK HERE
Re-installing the LED Eyeball Light. This light will be for my son so he can have directional light while we travel at night. Light available here: CLICK HERE
Swapped out the black screws on the upper rear door panels with matching snap caps for a more finished look.
Coming together! Mike at Vanlab did an awesome job on the panels, They fit like a glove!
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Panels going up. Velcro is installed on the back side of the panels and stapled in place. There will be 3 screws per panel as well as the Velcro for a nice tight fit.
Using matching colored Snap Caps for a finished Look. Snap Caps Available Here: CLICK HERE
Re-installing the LED Eyeball Light. This light will be for my son so he can have directional light while we travel at night. Light available here: CLICK HERE
Swapped out the black screws on the upper rear door panels with matching snap caps for a more finished look.
Coming together! Mike at Vanlab did an awesome job on the panels, They fit like a glove!
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Agile Offroad here has 10 bays working full time on Sprinters. At least they did before the CCP virus anyway. They do their magic to enable 285's. My friend purchased a pre-emissions 5-cylinder Sprinter new. It's got 236Kon it and has made plenty of cross country trips plus a Baja run of nearly 2K miles. I had never driven it and was really impressed with the drivetrain. The engine purrs and the auto shifts perfectly. It's been nickel and dimeing him to death for awhile now but it's been perfect for his diesel polishing business.
Fantastic work bud!
Fantastic work bud!
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Thanks Mate. Yeah uppfitters stay really busy converting these vans out to keep up with demand. Eventually I would love to set mine up with the Agile suspension package as well!
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
12V Charger Ports - What's best for your build?
This in my 4th video in a series highlighting build out tools and tips. In this video I cover the differences in 12v power ports, advantages and disadvantages of each and when you might want to use each style in your own build.
Hope you find these videos helpful.
Amazon Affiliate Links to the products I use. When you purchase a product using my link I get a small kickback from Amazon for sharing the link. I don't get paid to review products and only share links that I actually use and like in my builds. Thanks for the support :beer
Blue Sea Marine Power Ports available on Amazon Here (Face plate is removable): CLICK HERE
Powerlet socket available on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Powerlet 90 Deg Male Plug on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hussel Metal USB 3.0 Car Charger on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hodakaguy
This in my 4th video in a series highlighting build out tools and tips. In this video I cover the differences in 12v power ports, advantages and disadvantages of each and when you might want to use each style in your own build.
Hope you find these videos helpful.
Amazon Affiliate Links to the products I use. When you purchase a product using my link I get a small kickback from Amazon for sharing the link. I don't get paid to review products and only share links that I actually use and like in my builds. Thanks for the support :beer
Blue Sea Marine Power Ports available on Amazon Here (Face plate is removable): CLICK HERE
Powerlet socket available on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Powerlet 90 Deg Male Plug on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hussel Metal USB 3.0 Car Charger on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hodakaguy
Last edited:
mariusstrom
New member
Your attention to detail and finished results are inspiring
The space under your solar panel looks a bit Maxtrax sized?
I have a cupboard of coffee maker fails, hadn't heard of a Presto Myjo but it's about twice the price in the UK, and we don't seem to have plus nuts either. Shocking. But I have yet to find anything I like better for either taste or usability than one like this;
The space under your solar panel looks a bit Maxtrax sized?
I have a cupboard of coffee maker fails, hadn't heard of a Presto Myjo but it's about twice the price in the UK, and we don't seem to have plus nuts either. Shocking. But I have yet to find anything I like better for either taste or usability than one like this;
Attachments
Last edited:
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
A little heat and a thin fishing line will cut right through the tape and release it easily.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Your attention to detail and finished results are inspiring
The space under your solar panel looks a bit Maxtrax sized?
I have a cupboard of coffee maker fails, hadn't heard of a Presto Myjo but it's about twice the price in the UK, and we don't seem to have plus nuts either. Shocking. But I have yet to find anything I like better for either taste or usability than one like this;
Thanks Mate. I'm sure Maxxtrax would fit under the panel but I don't have easy/quick access to that area for storage.
Coffee unit looks nice, simple and bullet proof.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Door Speaker & Panel.
VanLab Mike finished up the panel for the slider door and we started to install it when we came upon a problem.....The speaker grill sticks to far out and won't allow the sliding door to open all the way. Once the door was about 3/4 of the way open the speaker grill would want to contact the body of the van, no good. We discussed a few options, changing out the speaker (But I already have 3 others mounted and want them all to match) or making some kind of recessed adapter. Solution below.....
Here's a shot of the speaker and grill mounted on the lower sliding door panel.....To High!
I thought about welding up an adapter, then though about making a ring of wood to attach to the panel on the back side and cover the edges in matching carpet. Mike came up with a much more elegant and factory looking solution. Here Mike printed my up a recessed adapter on his 3d printer to allow the speaker to sit flush in the door panel. Nice!!
The mount consists of two parts, first the recessed adapter that the speaker will sit in and second a locking ring for the back side of the panel that will allow clamping the speaker in place without any visible screws from the front.
Test fitting the speaker and grill in the adapter....nice!
Next up modify the door panel to accept the adapter.
Sealing the edges
Speaker in the vice and drilling the mounting holes into the adapter, the HUGE vice comes in soooooo handy for many tasks.
Bolts installed
Next up I used some scrap aluminum to make some mounting tabs for the rear of the speaker. Since you won't be seeing these ever again I didn't spend a ton of time making them Pretty
Continued Below....
VanLab Mike finished up the panel for the slider door and we started to install it when we came upon a problem.....The speaker grill sticks to far out and won't allow the sliding door to open all the way. Once the door was about 3/4 of the way open the speaker grill would want to contact the body of the van, no good. We discussed a few options, changing out the speaker (But I already have 3 others mounted and want them all to match) or making some kind of recessed adapter. Solution below.....
Here's a shot of the speaker and grill mounted on the lower sliding door panel.....To High!
I thought about welding up an adapter, then though about making a ring of wood to attach to the panel on the back side and cover the edges in matching carpet. Mike came up with a much more elegant and factory looking solution. Here Mike printed my up a recessed adapter on his 3d printer to allow the speaker to sit flush in the door panel. Nice!!
The mount consists of two parts, first the recessed adapter that the speaker will sit in and second a locking ring for the back side of the panel that will allow clamping the speaker in place without any visible screws from the front.
Test fitting the speaker and grill in the adapter....nice!
Next up modify the door panel to accept the adapter.
Sealing the edges
Speaker in the vice and drilling the mounting holes into the adapter, the HUGE vice comes in soooooo handy for many tasks.
Bolts installed
Next up I used some scrap aluminum to make some mounting tabs for the rear of the speaker. Since you won't be seeing these ever again I didn't spend a ton of time making them Pretty
Continued Below....
Similar threads
