Homemade Folding Table: My Versions
- Thread starter Fergie
- Start date
adriatikfan
Observer
Hope this isn't a hassle. I'd really appreciate a copy of the plans too if you have them.
Best Wishes
David
Best Wishes
David
The design of these is pretty simple, so I don't think a measured drawing of this set is really needed. Notice that they are not identical, the arcs of removed material in the legs are different.
If we work out a few details, anyone can adapt this design to the size that works for them.
Table Top: 2 identical boxes, hinged together with 2 sets of hinges. The combined interior thickness of 2 "box" walls (when closed) has to be deep enough to hold the other pieces. This depth should not be too tight of a fit, to allow for wood movement. The length is not constrained (but the minimum is set by the leg length). The width should allow enough room to place the legs in when they are folded, without too much gap.
Legs: 2 identical sets. Each set is itself made of 2 side pieces, connected with 2 hinges so that they butterfly open. (Hinge selection is important so that are flat when open and when closed). The length of the pieces (table height) needs to be short enough to fit inside the box. The width of each of the 4 leg sides should match the interior of the table top box, with enough gap to easily place them in the box when folded. The top of each piece should be notched on the inboard edge to receive the box lid. The lid rests on the top of the legs, so no extra material should be removed. The top overlaps the legs on the outboard edge because the legs have to be able to fit inside the box. The bottom of the legs should be trimmed leaving only a couple of inches in contact with the ground for each leg side piece (corner of the table). Too much material here just makes the table less stable in rough terrain. Cut a hole in each legs to receive the stretchers.
Stretchers: 2 identical pieces. Length to fit inside the table top box. Cut a tenon (tongue) on each end to pass through the legs. The tenon has to be wide enough so that it does not split under the pressure of the pegs. Figure the pegs need 1.5 inches of wood all the way around the peg hole so that it does not split. The tenon has to be long enough to allow maybe 80% of the peg hole to be visible beyond the legs, in order to pass the peg through. This is the only part where a couple of test cuts might reveal a specific helpful dimension. The overall width of the stretcher should be less than 1/2 of the width of each leg piece. That way they rest in the box nicely.
Pegs: 4. Wing it.
Misc: there are a couple of clasps to keep the box closed. I'd get some line from a boating store that was a little kinder on the hands than what is shown.
As noted above, the table top opens and lays flat on the leg tops, resting in the notches on the inboard edge of the legs. I see nothing in the photo that shows any way to keep the top from sliding end to end on the legs. Friction might be enough, but I'm not sure how snug the notches should be. A tiny bit snug is my guess - you don't want to be fighting this to put it together, but you do not want the top flopping about.
If we work out a few details, anyone can adapt this design to the size that works for them.
Table Top: 2 identical boxes, hinged together with 2 sets of hinges. The combined interior thickness of 2 "box" walls (when closed) has to be deep enough to hold the other pieces. This depth should not be too tight of a fit, to allow for wood movement. The length is not constrained (but the minimum is set by the leg length). The width should allow enough room to place the legs in when they are folded, without too much gap.
Legs: 2 identical sets. Each set is itself made of 2 side pieces, connected with 2 hinges so that they butterfly open. (Hinge selection is important so that are flat when open and when closed). The length of the pieces (table height) needs to be short enough to fit inside the box. The width of each of the 4 leg sides should match the interior of the table top box, with enough gap to easily place them in the box when folded. The top of each piece should be notched on the inboard edge to receive the box lid. The lid rests on the top of the legs, so no extra material should be removed. The top overlaps the legs on the outboard edge because the legs have to be able to fit inside the box. The bottom of the legs should be trimmed leaving only a couple of inches in contact with the ground for each leg side piece (corner of the table). Too much material here just makes the table less stable in rough terrain. Cut a hole in each legs to receive the stretchers.
Stretchers: 2 identical pieces. Length to fit inside the table top box. Cut a tenon (tongue) on each end to pass through the legs. The tenon has to be wide enough so that it does not split under the pressure of the pegs. Figure the pegs need 1.5 inches of wood all the way around the peg hole so that it does not split. The tenon has to be long enough to allow maybe 80% of the peg hole to be visible beyond the legs, in order to pass the peg through. This is the only part where a couple of test cuts might reveal a specific helpful dimension. The overall width of the stretcher should be less than 1/2 of the width of each leg piece. That way they rest in the box nicely.
Pegs: 4. Wing it.
Misc: there are a couple of clasps to keep the box closed. I'd get some line from a boating store that was a little kinder on the hands than what is shown.
As noted above, the table top opens and lays flat on the leg tops, resting in the notches on the inboard edge of the legs. I see nothing in the photo that shows any way to keep the top from sliding end to end on the legs. Friction might be enough, but I'm not sure how snug the notches should be. A tiny bit snug is my guess - you don't want to be fighting this to put it together, but you do not want the top flopping about.
If we're going to do an 'open source' design here, how 'bout combining the table top from the OP with legs like on this knock-down table:
[bunny trail]In my web wanderings looking for campaign furniture, knock-down furniture, ect. I have run across a few plans and pix posted by SCA / Renaissance Faire folks that are really cool. The picture above is a link to one. Check out the knock-down bed, a real glampers dream. And the knock-down wheel barrow pic at the bottom of the page is too cool, but I just can't figure out why I need one. Maybe for gathering firewood?[/bunny trail]
EDIT: The Mortise and tenon joints on the table I showed are a lot more elaborate than on the OP table, but I don't think they would need to be.
[bunny trail]In my web wanderings looking for campaign furniture, knock-down furniture, ect. I have run across a few plans and pix posted by SCA / Renaissance Faire folks that are really cool. The picture above is a link to one. Check out the knock-down bed, a real glampers dream. And the knock-down wheel barrow pic at the bottom of the page is too cool, but I just can't figure out why I need one. Maybe for gathering firewood?[/bunny trail]
EDIT: The Mortise and tenon joints on the table I showed are a lot more elaborate than on the OP table, but I don't think they would need to be.
Last edited:
adriatikfan
Observer
If we're going to do an 'open source' design here, how 'bout combining the table top from the OP with legs like on this knock-down table:
[bunny trail]In my web wanderings looking for campaign furniture, knock-down furniture, ect. I have run across a few plans and pix posted by SCA / Renaissance Faire folks that are really cool. The picture above is a link to one. Check out the knock-down bed, a real glampers dream. And the knock-down wheel barrow pic at the bottom of the page is too cool, but I just can't figure out why I need one. Maybe for gathering firewood?[/bunny trail]
EDIT: The Mortise and tenon joints on the table I showed are a lot more elaborate than on the OP table, but I don't think they would need to be.
Thank you for the link - really interesting.
Best Wishes
David
adriatikfan
Observer
Thanks Fergie - that would be really good.
Best Wishes
David
Best Wishes
David
We made a "copy" of the table about a month ago with items I had lying around the house. Thanks to the OP for posting his pictures. It really is a clever design and something I would not of thought of. I managed to use up that 1/2" can of poly, the 1/2 can of barn red paint, that bag of hinges in the draw, and the 1x10 on the shelve. Once again, thanks. Simple yet a great addition to the trailer.
Fergie
Expedition Leader
Sorry guys, no plans, but I did take some measurements.
All folded up, the table measures 32"x11"x6" and is made from 3/4" stock, with the sides being 2.25" tall.
The legs are 28" tall, and 18.5" wide.
The cross braces 30.5 inches long and 4-3/8" tall.
You'll need to figure your own decoractive curves in the legs, and the placement of the cross piece holes.
Just remember that it isnt an exact science.
HTH.
Gavin
All folded up, the table measures 32"x11"x6" and is made from 3/4" stock, with the sides being 2.25" tall.
The legs are 28" tall, and 18.5" wide.
The cross braces 30.5 inches long and 4-3/8" tall.
You'll need to figure your own decoractive curves in the legs, and the placement of the cross piece holes.
Just remember that it isnt an exact science.
HTH.
Gavin
adriatikfan
Observer
Many thanks for that info.
It's really helpful. Going to have a go at one before the summer's out.
Best Wishes
David
It's really helpful. Going to have a go at one before the summer's out.
Best Wishes
David
Photomike
White Turtle Adventures & Photography
I do like the table. The fact it folds up is nice, but the real impressive thing is that it looks like it will hold some weight. Any folding table that you buy is so weak that when I set a pot of water on it it looks like it is seconds away from folding back up, or they are made of plastic and I am afraid that they are going to melt!
Looks good! The table that is. Thats about how mine came out. Sometimes we sit the 12v fridge fully loaded with no worries on it. Once again, thanks to the OP for a great simplistic design.