I got here as fast as I could - '04 Suburban Z71
- Thread starter tbisaacs
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tbisaacs
Adventurer
Making my way through swapping out all the lights for LEDS.
Tails/brake lights, rear turn signals, reverse lights, plate lights, and puddle lights are done outside.
Had to install an LED specific flasher to avoid hyper flash. I thought I had gotten away from having to use resistors but now my cruise doesn't work. Google tells me that resistors on my tails will fix it.
Everything is swapped inside. It's hard to capture but looks great.
99% sure it is worth the hassle
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Tails/brake lights, rear turn signals, reverse lights, plate lights, and puddle lights are done outside.
Had to install an LED specific flasher to avoid hyper flash. I thought I had gotten away from having to use resistors but now my cruise doesn't work. Google tells me that resistors on my tails will fix it.
Everything is swapped inside. It's hard to capture but looks great.
99% sure it is worth the hassle
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tbisaacs
Adventurer
Yes but not obnoxious. Biggest difference is in the row of dome lights.
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Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
.Yes but not obnoxious. Biggest difference is in the row of dome lights.
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Hey, what kind of dog barrier is that? I've been looking for one that would fit my 'Burb. When we travel with the dog it would be nice to keep her separated from all the gear (she sits on the folded down right side rear passenger seat so she can have a window to herself.)
tbisaacs
Adventurer
Highland 2004500 Black Universal Pet Barrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MABGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CP8h8vIeIW2Q1
It's okay... I have behind my folded third row. My plan was to stow my third row seat in the garage when not in use but the barrier isn't tall enough (my burb is missing the flaps behind the rear seat that cover the hole in the floor).
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tbisaacs
Adventurer
Well, I guess I'll have to sort out my power situation—because I accidentally bought an ARB50 
I just happened to find a used one locally at a price that I couldn't refuse.
My Suburban has an ancient off-brand battery that I've been meaning to replace. I've been doing a lot of research between a dual battery systems, it's pretty straightforward, as the suburban has a spot for an aux battery. However the Goal Zero Yeti 400 + some Renology panels is also very appealing. I like the idea of the Yeti because we could move it to another vehicle, etc.
For now I'm probably just going to get by with a single Optima or Odyssey. I found a helpful thread here on Expo confirming that even with a single AGM battery, I should be fine running the fridge overnight—with the caveat that I should also have a jump pack:
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...ge-Please-help-me-set-it-up-so-I-m-good-to-go
I just happened to find a used one locally at a price that I couldn't refuse.
My Suburban has an ancient off-brand battery that I've been meaning to replace. I've been doing a lot of research between a dual battery systems, it's pretty straightforward, as the suburban has a spot for an aux battery. However the Goal Zero Yeti 400 + some Renology panels is also very appealing. I like the idea of the Yeti because we could move it to another vehicle, etc.
For now I'm probably just going to get by with a single Optima or Odyssey. I found a helpful thread here on Expo confirming that even with a single AGM battery, I should be fine running the fridge overnight—with the caveat that I should also have a jump pack:
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...ge-Please-help-me-set-it-up-so-I-m-good-to-go
tbisaacs
Adventurer
Sometimes the cheapest mods are the best. I picked up a rechargeable, 27 LED closet light with a motion sensor.
I mounted it to my hatch using the supplied 3M magnetic strip. It works like magic and comes on when I open the hatch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSSI8P7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eWFYybWG8MQQF
I'm also gathering suspension parts. Sway bar bushing and links this weekend. 5100's soon after.
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I mounted it to my hatch using the supplied 3M magnetic strip. It works like magic and comes on when I open the hatch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSSI8P7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eWFYybWG8MQQF
I'm also gathering suspension parts. Sway bar bushing and links this weekend. 5100's soon after.
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tbisaacs
Adventurer
Also finished tidying up my center stack. Re-faced the radio with new Doorman buttons, replaced the 12v socket with a marine-style dual USB charger.
The biggest improvement was with my Garmin. I picked up a longer mount that allowed me to stick it to the dash and hang it over the radio. Much more usable now that I can reach it.
I also hardwired it using a fuse tap. Instead of plugging and unplugging, it comes on with my key.
I had planned on just cutting the 12v plug-but that didn't work because there is something in the plug that is required for the Garmin to work. So I bought a new Garmin cord, plugged it into a female 12v socket, then wired that to the fuse tap.
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The biggest improvement was with my Garmin. I picked up a longer mount that allowed me to stick it to the dash and hang it over the radio. Much more usable now that I can reach it.
I also hardwired it using a fuse tap. Instead of plugging and unplugging, it comes on with my key.
I had planned on just cutting the 12v plug-but that didn't work because there is something in the plug that is required for the Garmin to work. So I bought a new Garmin cord, plugged it into a female 12v socket, then wired that to the fuse tap.
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tbisaacs
Adventurer
Links and bushings replaced. Immediate improvement!
I made a rookie mistake and took off the front wheel. I realized my foolishness as I was jacking up my LCA to bring it up close enough to get the bolt for the sway bar link on.
While I was in there, I poked, prodded, and wiggled everything and it all seems tight. Including CVs and tie rods.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
Good times. Were there any directions on the front sway bar connectors, about how much to tighten them? The top ends look a little loose on the sway bar ends. Should be a bit more squished, to my eye. But I might be wrong.
Did you put new rubber boots on the tie rod ends?
I don't see any jackstands in the photo, I hope you used some as just the floor jack can have some terrible consequences if it gives out.
I've been pricing new bushings and ball joints, toying with using that work as an excuse to get a hydraulic shop press. But the price on the rockauto complete OEM complete control arm sets is changing my mind.
Looking at your superbright interior lights, really liking them. Just LED replacements, right?
Did you put new rubber boots on the tie rod ends?
I don't see any jackstands in the photo, I hope you used some as just the floor jack can have some terrible consequences if it gives out.
I've been pricing new bushings and ball joints, toying with using that work as an excuse to get a hydraulic shop press. But the price on the rockauto complete OEM complete control arm sets is changing my mind.
Looking at your superbright interior lights, really liking them. Just LED replacements, right?
tbisaacs
Adventurer
Good eye. I didn't tighten them until I put the wheel back on and got it back on the ground so the LCA would compress to its resting height.
The instructions suggested tightening until the bushings bulge slightly and then back off 1/4 turn.
Definitely used a jack stand
Just couldn't see it in the photo. I didn't replace tie rod boots but they looked new. As did CV joint boots.
Here are the LEDs I have
www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRSTP1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Yav6GzqZfWEGS
The quality is okay. I have other bulbs from superbrighteds.com and they are much better. The kit above only comes in 6000k which claims to be white but it's a little blue.
superbrighteds.com has warm white for all of the interior bulbs except the courtesy lights. If I were to do it over again I'd pay the extra for the color I wanted and quality of their bulbs.
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