I will never buy electronic 4wd again.....

[Ramdough]

Well, I went to engage 4wd last week when it was raining. Not really because I needed it, but just to excercise the transfercase/diff/axles... and no 4wd.

I should have listened to my gut instinks and not bought the truck with push button 4wd.

Any ideas on how to debug what is causing the problem.... ADD or transfer case actuator?

I can hear the transfer case actuator make a noise... like a power window... when I hit the button, so power is reaching the actuator.

I have not been really offroad in a few years (deepish water, rocks, and sand). I have been on dirt roads etc, but nothing that can break anything.

 

[SOAZ]

Well, I went to engage 4wd last week when it was raining. Not really because I needed it, but just to excercise the transfercase/diff/axles... and no 4wd.

I should have listened to my gut instinks and not bought the truck with push button 4wd.

Any ideas on how to debug what is causing the problem.... ADD or transfer case actuator?

I can hear the transfer case actuator make a noise... like a power window... when I hit the button, so power is reaching the actuator.

I have not been really offroad in a few years (deepish water, rocks, and sand). I have been on dirt roads etc, but nothing that can break anything.

What are the details on the vehicle?

 

[grillmasterp]

Any ideas on how to debug what is causing the problem.... ADD or transfer case actuator?
I can hear the transfer case actuator make a noise... like a power window... when I hit the button, so power is reaching the actuator.

Hey Doug-
Probs with the ADD actuator are more common -
I wouldn't be surprised if the ADD actuator died.
So don't blame push button 4HIi yet.

Grab a copy of the FSM - with a DMM- you should be able to check the connector for the ADD actuator to make sure its getting the proper voltage
I've bench tested ADD actuators with a 12V source- +/- to the appropriate terminals for engagement, reverse polarity for disengagement

 

[RobinP]

Is it an electronic solenoid driven vacuum actuated 4x4 by Toyota? If so, check your vacuum lines, both the rubber and steel sections. You can test it by pulling the vacuum line off and engaging 4 wheel drive - you'll feel the suction if it's working. If you've got vacuum, then there's another issue with the diaphragm.

I share your sentiment though - see this article here.

 

[Ramdough]

2002 D-Cab Taco, TRD, V6

I have a 2002 D-Cab Taco, TRD, V6

I believe that I have an electic ADD actuator.

If it is out, how hard would it be to swap over to vacuum actuated ADD? I would think that vacuum actuated would be more reliable. Or better yet, a manual cable or lever pull?

 

[Ursidae69]

I'd think that the electronic actuator would be more reliable than vacume. One hose crack anywhere could render you 2wd. In my old GMC I replaced the vacume actuator with a cable called the 4x4 Posi-lok, but their site doesn't show anything for Toyota. Sorry about the trouble, bummer, but welcome back.

 

[p1michaud]

Transfer case or ADD Actuator issue.

I have a 2002 D-Cab Taco, TRD, V6

I believe that I have an electic ADD actuator.

If it is out, how hard would it be to swap over to vacuum actuated ADD? I would think that vacuum actuated would be more reliable. Or better yet, a manual cable or lever pull?

This could be two separate issues.

One it could be your trasfer case actuator. This is a very common issue due to road salt and our climate. You could pull the actuator out and hit the 4WD switch to test operation. I have not done it personally but helped with the research for a friend. You just have 1 connector and 3 or 4 bolts I believe.

Second it could be your ADD actuator (I hope not for your sake because you essentially have to dropp the front diff out of the rig to change it out if it's busted. Done this 3 times, not an easy job. A friend of mine had this happen mid water crossing (2' deep). The actuator got wet and stopped working, after it dried out some it worked again.

I'd bet it the transfer case actuator. Does your 4WD light come in solid or just blink. If it's not in solid odds are it's the trasfer case actuator. Look up the FSM here if you don't have access to it.

Cheers,
P

 

[Ramdough]

The 4X4 light does not light up at all. Not even a blink.

I can hear the transfer case actuator doing something.... just can't tell what it is doing.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Damn, dude, that sucks! Hope you're able to get it worked out OK.

This is exhibit #2,340 of why I insisted on buying a vehicle with a manual T-case. IMO electronic transfer cases are the dumbest idea to hit 4-wheeling ever. And now every vehicle out there has an electronic T-case except for a few Jeeps and the FJ cruiser.

Interesting note: When I went to the Stock Show in January, there was a huge display by Dodge (one of the big sponsors.) They had quite a few vehicles there from the Caliber all the way up to their super heavy duty trucks. One thing that caught my eye was that the half and 3/4 ton Ram trucks had the typical pushbotton T-case control and automatic transmissions. But the super-duty 1-ton (or whatever Dodge calls them) had both a manual transmission, a solid front axle and a manual transfer case lever. Seems that Dodge understands that in a vehicle that is intended for very heavy duty applications, the transfer case is one area where they don't want the "weak link" of an electronic shifter!

 

[98sr5]

i know i never got that your reaching the same distance its probably cause with the shifter gone they can put an extra cup holder lol

 

[Redline]

I have to agree, I don't like electronic shift even though my 4Runner has it. If I wanted this vehicle I had to accept the shift dial... (Dialing for 4 wheel drive anyone)

This is my first 4x4 without a T-case shifter, manual hubs, and one of the few with an auto trans. My only concession/rationalization is that since it is full-time 4x4 it doesn't have to be 'shifted' into 4WD. I only have to rely on knobs and buttons if I want to lock the T-case and/or shift into low-range ☹

Oh yeah, I really like the car ☺

 

[Martinjmpr]

I have to agree, I don't like electronic shift even though my 4Runner has it. If I wanted this vehicle I had to accept the shift dial... (Dialing for 4 wheel drive anyone)

This is my first 4x4 without a T-case shifter, manual hubs, and one of the few with an auto trans. My only concession/rationalization is that since it is full-time 4x4 it doesn't have to be 'shifted' into 4WD. I only have to rely on knobs and buttons if I want to lock the T-case and/or shift into low-range ☹

Oh yeah, I really like the car ☺

The GF's Grand Vitara is the same way. Full time 4wd so the only thing the electronic knob controls is the center diff lock and the neutral and low range. And since the Vitara is not intended as an off-road vehicle my guess is that the center diff lock will be used rarely and the low range even more so. Not an ideal situation but at least we aren't relying on an electronic switch to get it into or out of 4wd which would be a problem for me.

 

[Photog]

My 1989 Dodge Dakota has the vacuum driven ADD. It locked out of 4WD, and I found the vacuum diaphram on the axle, was full of water. I cleaned it out, lubed it, and plugged the holes. It has worked fine for the last 15 years. The transfer case is a manual shift lever.

 

[Martinjmpr]

A part of my problem with things like this is that while they are a convenience to the first purchaser, they're a total PITA to a subsequent purchaser. This applies to electronic 4wd systems but also power windows/door locks, RKE, proprietary nav systems that also control the HVAC, etc.

These items rarely fail during the warranty period, and most of the time the first purchaser only owns the vehicle during the warranty period or for maybe a year or so afterwards (especially now that warranties are 3/36 bumper to bumper and 5/60 engine powertrain.)

It seems like kind of a cynical move by the car companies, too. After all, except for repairs and accessories, car companies don't make any money off of the secondary market, so why should they care about catering to it?

Of course part of the "value" of a car is the amount of money the original purchaser will get when selling it. One of the reasons Toyota can sell so many new cars in the country is that so many people know how well Toyotas keep their value (if you don't believe me, just check out the price difference between a 10 year old 4x4 Tacoma and a 10 year old Ranger or S10. You'll be shocked at the difference.)

So, if it becomes known that a particular car will require an expensive repair after 6 years, then the person who buys it new will get less for it when he trades it in. This widespread switch to the pushbutton T-case might make sense in the short term but I can't help but think that in the long term it's a bad idea.

 

[98sr5]

you can always put an inchworm lefty into your truck