If you had to pick one: Skid plates or rock sliders?

[DaveInDenver]

@Happy Joe, up until I owned my 2008 Tacoma I would have agreed. The oil pan generally wasn't something I worried about a lot. But the geometry of the front end on 2005+ 4WD Tacoma and similar generation 4Runner and FJ Cruiser with the 4.0L V6 puts the front diff and rear oil pan (there are two on the 4.0L, a front and rear, the sump is the rear) in close proximity.



If those diff support arms are stressed...



...the corner of the diff can punch a hole in the block.



Admittedly this example is from a special situation since the owner was using a diff drop kit that made it even more vulnerable and he used his truck harder than average.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/remove-the-differential-drop-on-your-05-tacoma.118545/

But in any case the diff support arms and proximity of components remains IMO a potential issue. So running a substantial skid under there I think is good insurance. The diff itself hangs low and is vulnerable to being dragged. The stock plates are referred to as splash plates and are not supported between the two subframe drivetrain cradle cross members.



If I could run just a plate there to replace the lower one I would, the front plate has less directly behind it and has two folded supports behind it. It gets dented but that's cosmetic. But every aftermarket plate is one piece running from radiator support in front to the second lower crossmember so unfortunately we're stuck with 60 lbs of 3/16" steel or 30 lbs of 1/4" aluminum as the options.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Sliders add more jacking points if needed which I think could be handy too.

But I guess skidplates first, like me I was on a "stock" trail at an ORV park and a 4" dia stick that did pop up could have wedged between the fuel tank and the ground and really mess up my trip.

 

[Arctic Taco]

It’s a tough question, during my high school days I wheeled all over the Wind River and Absaroka mountains in a 52 CJ3A. Driver’s side was already mildly creased when I got it, and luckily I never made it worse, I did however get more contact on the T case skid, and the oil pan one. Of course this was with no lift (maybe an 1” with built up leaf spring that I did in the shop) and running 6.50 x 16 tires.
Later in life with my Tacoma I took it out the first day and drove up Schafer canyon road and slid off a rock and creased the pass rocker panel, luckily not enough to hinder the door operation and fit but close enough. Sliders are nice for hi lift jack use and of course parking lot armor- which is snow country isn’t a bad thing.
So sliders first and the skids later when I get out and do more wheeling.
YMMV depending on what and where you go.

 

[Buliwyf]

Skid plates over the fuel tank and xfer case first. Then I'll add one to cover engine oil pan. In my case, that skid isn't large. The radius arms protect under the engine, a bunch. And the exhaust cats reach down and will sing out far before dragging the pan.

Sliders really don't fit my needs at all. As long as I have a step or something that'll grind before the body does.

 

[shade]

Skid plates over the fuel tank and xfer case first. Then I'll add one to cover engine oil pan. In my case, that skid isn't large. The radius arms protect under the engine, a bunch. And the exhaust cats reach down and will sing out far before dragging the pan.

Sliders really don't fit my needs at all. As long as I have a step or something that'll grind before the body does.

On the OP's Tacoma, the fuel tank isn't nearly as exposed as the oil pan. Most people start with an IFS skid at the front, and add armor to the rear as they see fit.

 

[DaveInDenver]

On the OP's Tacoma, the fuel tank isn't nearly as exposed as the oil pan. Most people start with an IFS skid at the front, and add armor to the rear as they see fit.

He's also starting with a TRD Offroad so it's also got the extra fuel tank protection from the factory. Most aftermarket skids mount to the same place as the stock plastic one, just hung from the tank straps. The fuel tank has to take all the weight no matter what unless you rework things to build a better mounts. So the improvement seems to me to be increased puncture resistance and 3/16" aluminum or stamped 1/8" steel would do that acceptably.

My shoot for the Moon goal would be to build a cross member to support a battery box on the passenger side and incorporate better mid and fuel tank protection. I built a sort of half-way pivot/skid on my old truck under the carrier bearing and that thing was very useful. I took the opposite approach to trying to tuck everything up doing a flat belly. It was a hasty solution that got built right before a trip that I never bothered redoing.

 

[shade]

I added a 1/4" aluminum tank skid to my 2nd gen Tacoma Off-Road. The plastic skid from OR package isn't horrible, but I wanted better protection as much for fuel thieves as for trail damage. For non-ORs, aftermarket tank straps are usually required to support a skid.

 

[shade]

He's also starting with a TRD Offroad so it's also got the extra fuel tank protection from the factory. Most aftermarket skids mount to the same place as the stock plastic one, just hung from the tank straps. The fuel tank has to take all the weight no matter what unless you rework things to build a better mounts. So the improvement seems to me to be increased puncture resistance and 3/16" aluminum or stamped 1/8" steel would do that acceptably.

My shoot for the Moon goal would be to build a cross member to support a battery box on the passenger side and incorporate better mid and fuel tank protection. I built a sort of half-way pivot/skid on my old truck under the carrier bearing and that thing was very useful. I took the opposite approach to trying to tuck everything up doing a flat belly. It was a hasty solution that got built right before a trip that I never bothered redoing.

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I like the additional crossmember. I can't recall the manufacturer, but I've seen universal crossmembers for sale in a variety of sizes. Seems like a decent way to deal with the limited breakover angle of a longer wheelbase.