International 4700 4X4 Rescue Conversion

[motorman]

to install the window i need to have the wall ice cream sandwich completed so the whole assembly can go together

i chose 1/4" plywood and applied 2 coats of poly and let it dry

used the foam as the template and cut

fit is great and am pleased with the look and feel

this is the kitchen side and i need an outlet on the left side so had to pull the cable will cut in the box with a vibratory tool

nice to re-use the massive cables that were in this unit

 

[motorman]

now it comes to the window installation

BOLLOCKS on these windows

quality is great, no question
but the fastening is absurd
there is nothing to guide or capture the screw and prevent them from falling off

the designer said looks great and see we even provided 2 different screw lengths to accommodate the client needs
but these particular engineers never went into the shop for a practical application of their design

just like the my cousin vinny movie toward the end of the movie and cross-examination of the guy that saw the robbery through his kitchen window

in your best brogue . . .

i am supposed to get a 20mm M4 pan head scroo troo dis hole deah



a horeezontaal distance of ovah too freaking inches

wit a &%34$@ pil-hips-head screwdriver




an wit lil dros of sweat dripping off da tip of my nose

without it dropping off da end of the freaking ting and falling into da ---- wall!!??





no way . . . take a walk

the most i ever successfully installed was 4 screws

best results were using a silicone straw to capture the screw to the screwdriver

but in the end i am back to the drawing board

i have ordered a series of M4 screw and have learned the 60mm is too short
i have 65 and 75 mm lengths to arrive today or tomorrow so we will see if that will work

having a long screw with a flat washer should provide the clamping force necessary with all the resistance in the wall cavity

if not i am going to pull off the rubber seal on the window and install with dicor butyl tape and just glue them in and make some retaining clips out of industrial strapping

 

[motorman]

i could really use a hand with an air fitting cap

those of us with ambulance's have an electric air compressor that is always active in the air circuit when the unit is plugged in at the station
in this way the unit is always aired up and ready to go and no wait for leaking bags to air up

so i removed the compressor and i want to cap the supply or install an air line to the other side of the truck

air-line to the other side is easy . . . just reuse the same fittings

but i need to cap it for the time being so i can get around in my unit



what size are these fittings

it is not NPT and not compression . . . so what are they and where can i find them?

appreciate any help or insight from those already walking the path

 

[marret]

I don't know about the size, but you might try a place selling air suspension parts for trucks. I believe NAPA sells some as well.

 

[motorman]

I took the cap to NAPA and they do not have it

The tank has NPT fittings

I am probably going to remove the block and go play erector set at northern tool / harbor freight

 

[motorman]

removed the block and installed a 3/4 " plug
will end up routing some air lines to both sides of the unit for airing up - down

 

[motorman]

now back to the windows

i ended up ordering an assortment of various length 60mm - 80mm in 5mm increments
knowing somewhere in this range was the proper length

i also purchased some M4 316 stainless washers to distribute the force

this is the 'only' way to go in my opinion and i hope that my pain helps someone out

 

[motorman]

cannot imagine how easy it was
once we figured out it was the M70 length we installed the windows w/ 5 screws on each side
i was then able to order the proper number of correct length M4 screws and fill all the holes

both sides went together quickly and the windows are great

 

[motorman]

once we were 'dried in' the floor became a focus to finalize the layout and location of interior items

so we cleaned it up again real good

the boss made a template



laid the template on the 1" R5 150psi foamular insulation



and cut it out



like a glove

 

[motorman]

being that the foam is 150 psi i did not install any sort of stringers or studs
i cut a 6 x 6" square and could only manage to leave minor depressions where my foot bounced on it
with a .66" subfloor further distributing the load i do not believe there will be any problem deforming the floor

we used the insulation as the template for the subfloor
ended up wasting a sheet as i did not consider that each sheet was 46.5" and not 48" because i did not lay out the complete floor at once

lesson learned and i can use the drops in other places

we selected the LP Legacy product that is infused w/ Gorilla Glue
this board is heavy and slick

i left a piece in the back of my truck on purpose for a couple days
the weather is changing in the south and we have a serious dew every morning

this stuff did not absorb any water

used the last of the kilmat for soundproofing on the wheel wells too

 

[motorman]

i have owned this fridge / freezer for over 30 months
been in the garage and was the constant reminder of the vision many moons ago
well it finally happened

my new favorite tool
kreg pocket hole jig





worked by myself to get this done as i have deadlines approaching



view from compartment 1 on the passenger side
this will by my electric panel
some 'speed' holes for fans & circulation



very close to perfect on the reveal and not bad for a club foot engineer who is NOT any sort of woodworker!



like a glove



cut some panels out of galvanized as the original was swollen w/ southern humidity and living in the garage
not sure if i like them painted or raw
may just put the orbital sander on it to obscure the scratches yet to come


so now i can finish the wiring as i wanted it all to be external to the wall cavity whenever possible

there will be 3 x 110V circuits on the driver side and this wiring will be at the floor perimeter
the ac unit AC wiring & most all DC wiring will follow a 'chase' on the passenger side ceiling
plan is for all the switches, dimmers & information systems to be housed in a panel over the door

the space to the right of the freezer will be some 'flange mounted' bins that will be recessed into the wall depth
we have about 3 inches of depth to take advantage of like a medicine cabinet
good place for handy / quick use items

the space to the right of the fridge is utilized for the AC & DC distribution

if you notice the roofing felt nails & plastic tabs in the last picture you will see the potential lighting layout

certainly 3 over the kitchen and the 63" of counter on one circuit w/ a dimmer
1 over the bathroom and 1 over the shower on one circuit w/ a dimmer
the balance is uncertain

LED puck lights are 215 lumens each

im believing that 3 more pair on another circuit w/ dimmer should be more than enough

of course some LED rope light will go under the counter toe kick

 

[motorman]

more progress from October but just getting around to posting

ceiling went in with 1/2" insulation between studs and the panels

was a chore laying out the light placement as a whole and then bring in the panel

my bone head was effective as a jack and able to apply pressure to install some screws





i have 4 lighting 'zones' on separate switches w/ dimmers in 1-3

1 6 lights over the bed and dinette went with 3 on each row to have light in the middle and minimize shadows on the table
2 4 lights in kitchen over counter & sink
3 4 lights in the entry area and over the 'couch'
4 1 light in pass through area and 1 in the bathroom


we have a temporary counter to help layout how much room for cabinets and to finish the water systems
will eventually go w/ butcher block of some sort for the counter and dinette table

the counter is just shy of 5' so we have the real estate to go with a nice deep & wide sink from Ruvati, bowl dims 19" x 15" x 10"

found the faucet on clearance end cap at the orange store for 39 bucks

plan is to use induction we can store away when not in use

intend to clad the wall adjacent to the sink in steel and have magnetized panels for spice rack, knives & paper towels



the 4 lights in the 'kitchen' do a nice job . . . IMO

 

[motorman]

here is the water system as it takes form
65 gallon fresh water
boxed it in and provides a little storage on top
the dinette will be on heavy duty slides that are mounted hanging from the bed support and will extend 40" into the living space when deployed
surflow pump & expansion tank on the wall



i am taking an unconventional route and am trying to use ss braided washing machine hoses for my water lines
and utilizing exterior garden hose split valves to increase flexibility and minimize fittings
a leak is easy to tighten up in the field
pressure will never exceed house pressure
can easily close a valve to shut off each hot or cold run individually

the sink has its own 15 gal grey tank
6 gal kuma 120v hot water heater with internal loop (will use this loop w/ a heater matrix for 'free' heat going down the road)
2 stage water filtration









this shows the garden hose splitters

incoming cold output from filters
brass reducers from 3/4 hose to 3/8 compression for the sink and shower cold service
the 3rd line will go to the kuma
the loose fitting output will output from the hot water to the hot side of sink and shower
intend to plumb with washing machine hoses as well

 

[motorman]

we decided to have the water tank to the rear
the truck certainly has the capacity and honestly have so much exterior storage that i believe this volume is better utilized inside

the furthest blue line is 20 inches from the 'tank wall'
we will build a rack 2 x 3 cubicles maybe 12" x 15" x 18"
could leave them open using baskets or doors or drawers . . . still in evaluation
could even use a portion for a compact washing machine

the blue line in the foreground represents the limit of the bed when it is 'deployed and is 22" further



this space over the rear compartment will be finished and utilized as interior space
will be flush and a continuation of the couch
this will allow for a full size adult to sleep on the couch and there will be over 100" of length to lay down
conventional upright seating will be 64" with the bed in 'day mode'
and 42" when deployed
this allows me more freedom to rise early and work on the road if necessary



this space under the counter is 34 x 28 and still deciding what to do if drawers or cabinets . . . or half & half

the distance between the support and the rear compartment is 24 - 25" and will be a seat when the bed is 'put away'
allowing for more seating space and eating 'face to face' as opposed to side by side
i do not believe we will be hurting for storage but we could always make the counter 7' if we do not utilize as intended

diesel heater will be under this seat with flow toward front and rear

 

[DzlToy]

Instead of drawers or cabinets, consider a simple, open shelf with lips on the forward edge or elastic to retain Sidio crates or soft cubbies. Foam can also be custom cut to hold plates, mugs and glasses and the entire block can be inserted into a cubby hole, eliminating drawer slides, locks, handles, latches, etc. If you like simple and light, that is the ticket.