Absolutely agree
Less is more!
International 4700 4X4 Rescue Conversion
- Thread starter motorman
- Start date
Less is more!
houston we have a problem
i have a leak inside my box
appears to be coming from the roof panel and the structure
the roof is stitch welded and then caulked & painted
after a couple years living outside in the freeze thaw cycle + UV i have been compromised
had to take my ceiling down
plan is to wire wheel the seam, paint and lay a bead of lap sealant
any other suggestions?
i have a leak inside my box
appears to be coming from the roof panel and the structure
the roof is stitch welded and then caulked & painted
after a couple years living outside in the freeze thaw cycle + UV i have been compromised
had to take my ceiling down
plan is to wire wheel the seam, paint and lay a bead of lap sealant
any other suggestions?
No Home Depot/Lowes/Ace/True Value sealant will stand the test of time. You need to call Lord Adhesives, Henkel, Sika or 3M tech support and speak with an application engineer. Tell them you need a product with long term UV stability, and one that can stand up to constant weather exposure, freeze and thaw cycles, large temperature variations, dissimilar materials, etc.
A professionally sprayed aliphatic polyurea works quite well for this application. AVOID canned spray 'bed liner' and most roll on/DIY products. They are budget/value garbage. Silicon caulking, tub and tile caulk, epoxy, JB Weld, Liquid Nails, gutter and window sealants and the like should also be avoided, at all costs. These products are Band-Aids at best and simply do not last.
Millions of dollars each year are spent on 're-doing' repairs that were never done right in homes, RVs, boats and campers. There are literally thousands of products on the market to serve these needs. Sealant is not sealant, caulk is not caulk, etc., You MUST get something that is engineered for your particular application, materials, weather, and so on, if you want it to last.
A professionally sprayed aliphatic polyurea works quite well for this application. AVOID canned spray 'bed liner' and most roll on/DIY products. They are budget/value garbage. Silicon caulking, tub and tile caulk, epoxy, JB Weld, Liquid Nails, gutter and window sealants and the like should also be avoided, at all costs. These products are Band-Aids at best and simply do not last.
Millions of dollars each year are spent on 're-doing' repairs that were never done right in homes, RVs, boats and campers. There are literally thousands of products on the market to serve these needs. Sealant is not sealant, caulk is not caulk, etc., You MUST get something that is engineered for your particular application, materials, weather, and so on, if you want it to last.
thanks for the recommendation to contact the experts
the AE at SIKA advised that 715 was for aluminum / horizontal surfaces
so far the fix has been applied for over 4 weeks and no more leaks!
we have had 2 tremendous downpour storms since the corrective action and i am confident in the solution
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so my fix for the ceiling was going to require installing some 1 x 2furring strips to attach ship-lap
to avoid a direct thermal transfer through the 2x2 AL ribs i installed 1/2" fomular insulation for R3
then added another layer between the furring strips
lost about 1" of headroom but increased the ceiling insulation by R3 . . . possibly more
BUT the ship lap was easier to install piece by piece as opposed to a 4 x 8 piece of paneling!
measuring and drilling for lights was easier and ability to keep aligned / centered was guaranteed
insulated the front wall and took the opportunity to finish the decommissioning of the ambo system
notice what is missing?
had to re-measure & cut the panes for the fridge enclosure
and re-engineered to take advantage of some space behind the fridge
will make a sliding pantry that can also serve as a 'door' to seal off the pass through
to avoid a direct thermal transfer through the 2x2 AL ribs i installed 1/2" fomular insulation for R3
then added another layer between the furring strips
lost about 1" of headroom but increased the ceiling insulation by R3 . . . possibly more
BUT the ship lap was easier to install piece by piece as opposed to a 4 x 8 piece of paneling!
measuring and drilling for lights was easier and ability to keep aligned / centered was guaranteed
insulated the front wall and took the opportunity to finish the decommissioning of the ambo system
notice what is missing?
had to re-measure & cut the panes for the fridge enclosure
and re-engineered to take advantage of some space behind the fridge
will make a sliding pantry that can also serve as a 'door' to seal off the pass through
productive weekend
finished the AC installation
installed the last piece of the ceiling
cut the butcher block counter, stained & oiled
finished counter top length is 60"
built & painted the kitchen base cabinet out of 3/4 " plywood
the vertical panels fit inside the top and bottom to provide structural strength as the counter rests on top
did not want the fasteners to handle all the load
will have 2 or 3 partitions in each side for ascending / descending compartment sizes
current dimensions of each are 25" x 15"
certainly enough space for all the stuff
the space to the left of the cabinet is 28" wide
this will be the space available to sit when the bed is 'put away' during the day
finished the AC installation
installed the last piece of the ceiling
cut the butcher block counter, stained & oiled
finished counter top length is 60"
built & painted the kitchen base cabinet out of 3/4 " plywood
the vertical panels fit inside the top and bottom to provide structural strength as the counter rests on top
did not want the fasteners to handle all the load
will have 2 or 3 partitions in each side for ascending / descending compartment sizes
current dimensions of each are 25" x 15"
certainly enough space for all the stuff
the space to the left of the cabinet is 28" wide
this will be the space available to sit when the bed is 'put away' during the day
put the kitchen back together and installed the counter, cabinet, sink and shower 'partition'
i will be making a very shallow cabinet that will fit to the right and in front of the sink down to the toe kick
there is about 6" of depth available for the 30" width
narrow but deep drawers on both sides of the sink
notice the air matrix heater in its hiding place with close access to the hot water heater & engine coolant lines
cleaned up the electrical cabinet and installed the batteries
2 x EG4 400ah 12v beauties
Victron goodies to follow
AC & DC distribution is convenient and resides close at hand
DC on top
i will be making a very shallow cabinet that will fit to the right and in front of the sink down to the toe kick
there is about 6" of depth available for the 30" width
narrow but deep drawers on both sides of the sink
notice the air matrix heater in its hiding place with close access to the hot water heater & engine coolant lines
cleaned up the electrical cabinet and installed the batteries
2 x EG4 400ah 12v beauties
Victron goodies to follow
AC & DC distribution is convenient and resides close at hand
DC on top
working on the bed slat alignment
1/8" paneling ripped for spacers on either side
with a piece of scrap clamped to have everything line up
3 screws for the stationery slats
2 on the front of the sliding / movable stats
beveled the opposite end top & bottom to allow 'smooth' sliding
and wa-la
seating with the bed in 'day use'
60" queen
by way of two 30' x 80" memory foam mattresses
1/8" paneling ripped for spacers on either side
with a piece of scrap clamped to have everything line up
3 screws for the stationery slats
2 on the front of the sliding / movable stats
beveled the opposite end top & bottom to allow 'smooth' sliding
and wa-la
seating with the bed in 'day use'
60" queen
by way of two 30' x 80" memory foam mattresses
looking for some input here if you please
planning to install a chinesium diesel heater in this location
utilizing an AL bracket from the ambulance demolition
any reason to not use this location?
i see these things mounted in all sorts of 'enclosed' locations and assume this is more than suitable
will be about 18' of fuel line to the primary diesel tank
is this too far?
water supply line will be routed above properly
exhaust will go out the former exterior outlet on the drivers side
the total exhaust length is under 15"
will the muffler be necessary?
with one of these attached to some AL plate
with a short combustion air inlet will it be too loud?
or is a longer routing better?
i could route about 35-40" of inlet air pipe bringing air from the rear of the box
planning to install a chinesium diesel heater in this location
utilizing an AL bracket from the ambulance demolition
any reason to not use this location?
i see these things mounted in all sorts of 'enclosed' locations and assume this is more than suitable
will be about 18' of fuel line to the primary diesel tank
is this too far?
water supply line will be routed above properly
exhaust will go out the former exterior outlet on the drivers side
the total exhaust length is under 15"
will the muffler be necessary?
with one of these attached to some AL plate
with a short combustion air inlet will it be too loud?
or is a longer routing better?
i could route about 35-40" of inlet air pipe bringing air from the rear of the box
There usually are limitations on how far away the first bend of the heated interior air can be from the heater itself and the minimum clearances from the heater body. Likewise, there are usually limits to how far the total length of the fuel line can be and the elevation gain between the pickup, pump, and heater itself. If you could get a hold of the install instructions ahead of time, might be helpful.
Here is a link to the Planar heater (which is a Russian copy of a Webasto): https://planarheaters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Installation-Manual-Planar-EN-V06.2021.pdf
An exhaust muffler will help no matter what. Tiger Expedition in Germany makes a intake silencer if the intake side is too noisy.
In my install the heater is super close to the fridge - I insulated the fridge with some radiant foil heat shield and wrapped the hot air exhaust with sleeving. TBH, it doesn't get that hot even on high.
interior is 'finishing' up nicely . . . IMO
the couch is 64" long with 3 compartments below 24 x 15 x 5.75" (l x w x h)
will most likely use fabric boxes as opposed to drawers
the hard seating surface is 15.75" off the floor
plan is to utilize a 3-4" cushion
an arm rest of some sort is planned for the end to have something to lean against
the space to the right next to the wheel well will be another form of storage
the 4th compartment by the door is shoe storage during ingress / egress
will finish painting the 2 panels when there is more to paint
seating on the kitchen side is finished as well and is 28" wide
the storage solution is the perfect size to accommodate our induction cook top
seating surfaces are 42" apart
one of the last major construction projects will be the cubical storage at the end of this 'hall'
approx 18 x 48 x 24 (l x w x h)
you can see on the left side how the seating continues for 40+ inches for storage and / or additional sleeping
the couch is 64" long with 3 compartments below 24 x 15 x 5.75" (l x w x h)
will most likely use fabric boxes as opposed to drawers
the hard seating surface is 15.75" off the floor
plan is to utilize a 3-4" cushion
an arm rest of some sort is planned for the end to have something to lean against
the space to the right next to the wheel well will be another form of storage
the 4th compartment by the door is shoe storage during ingress / egress
will finish painting the 2 panels when there is more to paint
seating on the kitchen side is finished as well and is 28" wide
the storage solution is the perfect size to accommodate our induction cook top
seating surfaces are 42" apart
one of the last major construction projects will be the cubical storage at the end of this 'hall'
approx 18 x 48 x 24 (l x w x h)
you can see on the left side how the seating continues for 40+ inches for storage and / or additional sleeping
Attachments
many things coming together and the construction is almost completed
cubical storage is completed
this will house clothes and such
boxes are 12.5 x 16 x 13
will utilize the cloth 'boxes'
power is in w/ 2 x usb outlets as part of the 120V supply via integrated small unit transformer
the left side is a single breaker that is a branch circuit with passenger side external receptacle
the right side is a single breaker that is a branch circuit with drivers rear compartment for charging tools
cut down the shelf wall mounting brackets and re-installed the 2 shelves
this is tons of storage
the table is 25 x 52 butcher block
used 40" compound drawer slides for full extension
and no table leg!!!
slides are mounted with 14 x machine screws + washers + nylocks per slide
table is attached with 16 x 1" screws per slide
when fully closed it is a 12' side table
cubical storage is completed
this will house clothes and such
boxes are 12.5 x 16 x 13
will utilize the cloth 'boxes'
power is in w/ 2 x usb outlets as part of the 120V supply via integrated small unit transformer
the left side is a single breaker that is a branch circuit with passenger side external receptacle
the right side is a single breaker that is a branch circuit with drivers rear compartment for charging tools
cut down the shelf wall mounting brackets and re-installed the 2 shelves
this is tons of storage
the table is 25 x 52 butcher block
used 40" compound drawer slides for full extension
and no table leg!!!
slides are mounted with 14 x machine screws + washers + nylocks per slide
table is attached with 16 x 1" screws per slide
when fully closed it is a 12' side table
Attachments
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