Isuzu npr 4wd

gator70

Active member
Space heating in a cab over bed is challenging.

Due to the vents all exit at floor level and one third of the habitat is in the cab over bed. We planned for air movement with two circulating fans one mounted in the bed area and one mounted in the dinette area.

There are two wall sections connecting the bed area. (1) one small one in the kitchen. (2) one large one on the bathroom.

The bathroom is water sealed and cannot be altered.

On the small wall is the kitchen and a kitchen cabinet with a stove exhaust fan mounted below.

If this cabinet door is opened on cold nights heat can enter that cabinet as heat rises. Inside that cabinet we will retrofit a panel fan 12v to push air into the bed area from the cabinet mounted close to the ceiling.

As a supplement we will use 12 v heating blankets.

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rruff

Explorer
Space heating in a cab over bed is challenging.
If that area is cold, then you have an air leak or thermal bridge or something...;)

I've slept in my unheated rig (alone) when it was 15F outside, and was totally fine with a cheap bag and fluffy blanket.
 

Ultimark

Active member
We spent a couple of months in Iceland in 2017 and spent at least double that amount of money. We hired a 4x4 (sort of high clearance) vehicle. One of the problems is that the inner roads/tracks can and will not be opened or closed before you wish due to the prevailing conditions. The road open/closure situation is controlled by local (to the area) people. At least that is what we learned when talking to some of the people who were in charge of opening and closing those roads/tracks.

Iceland is the most expensive place we've visited, it may have changed slightly, but things are, in the main, very expensive. We were at a fuel depot and there was a couple from Germany in their MAN Expedition truck on a world tour. They were taking on some gas to run their stove and other stuff, I seem to remember that an 11kg gas bottle was $150 USD in that particular place. Diesel was expensive compared to Australia and Germany, but not over the top.

I think that price is on the cheap side.

Ps: if you do go there in a truck, then ensure you understand windspeed in ms (Metres per Second). As you leave almost every town or village, the wind speed is on an illuminated sign usually telling you the wind speed along the way and the wind speed at the village/town you are going to. Especially on the main highway in the south east and around to the top of the island along the east coast.

Mick.
 

gator70

Active member
We changed our mind on the truck cab passthrough. Still sorting out the engineering.

Our first step is to remove the rear window and replace it with a 1/8 aluminum sheet, exactly cut like the rear window. And use a new window seal.

Intention is to use this interior door below

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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I'm a bit confused as to how this new determination of yours will work.
Maybe a CAD drawing or sketch would help...
 

gator70

Active member
I'm a bit confused as to how this new determination of yours will work.
Maybe a CAD drawing or sketch would help...

In time this will be clear

We build , using 3x1 aluminum angle, a frame. About 3 inch bigger than the door and about 1 inch bigger than the bezel. Then use this frame to insert into a hole in the cab rear panel.

A side view (borrowed from some other rig)

(in the picture it looks like a box - but it is a frame out of four angle pieces , joined at a 45 degree cut and welded)

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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Didn't you say previously that you had planned not to join the cab and camper, given that you have a Luton peak.
All of the examples you have given so far show a connected sock.
 

gator70

Active member
Didn't you say previously that you had planned not to join the cab and camper, given that you have a Luton peak.
All of the examples you have given so far show a connected sock.

Picture is from some other rig. No plan for a bellows connection.
 
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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Picture is from some other rig. No plan for a bellows connection.
Then why confuse people by continually using this image when speaking of your pass-thru?
This does not make sense to me.

Just use a CAD drawing or a sketch of the actual pass-thru you intend to use, as this will likely result in better feedback of your questions.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Charging lithium batteries through the shore power connection
That looks like a lot of long, heavy 12v cabling, which is likely to result in a decent voltage drop, resulting in less efficiency.
Why wouldn't you place the inverter closer to the battery and simply run an extension AC cable from your camper's shore power input to the inverter?
Inverters and batteries should always be as close to each other as possible.

Doing that would be much simpler, and I would argue, way more efficient. It would also significantly reduce the weight of 12v cables being used.
 

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