Isuzu npr 4wd

[gator70]

Stressed a lot about the habitat marriage to subframe - truck frame

Many alternatives of workflow

This work begins in three weeks

My final plan

Weld the perimeter subframe (with corner gussets). Lay it on the ground

Place six - 6 ton jacks around it . Use 8 ft 4x6 beams. Two beams font and rear of subframe placement. One across the middle center, so as not to obstruct the subframe movement when lifting

(there is a major reason not to mount subframe to truck frame first)

Raise this platform to 28 inches off the ground

Use a crane to lift the habitat onto the beams

 

[gator70]

While habitat is on platform beams. Attach subframe to habitat frame with six brackets each side.

(three part brackets are welded together on workbench prior to subframe attachment)

Some of theses decisions were deemed necessary as the habitat was too tall for shipment, with any other design.

Cross members to the subframe will be welded in place in another workflow step, while habitat is lifted. (crossmembers are simple)

 

[Decanter]

If, as I expect, this wind turbine is not built to deal with vibration, it will simple fall apart if fitted to a vehicle.
A DC/DC charger powered by the alternator would likely give you more reliable power at roughly the same cost.

Agreed. You can gain 50 or more amps of power while driving with a DC>DC charger. A Victron unit is about $300 for 50 amp. It works great on Lithium batteries. I use this exact unit on my 600 amps of Lion.

Also keep in mind added weight = extra fuel consumption, slower speeds and the greater possibility of broken parts. Things like your hide a key could be replaced with hiding the keys behind the bumper, etc. Steel is great in many places but I would use aluminum if possible in many to keep the weight down.

 

[gator70]

Agreed. You can gain 50 or more amps of power while driving with a DC>DC charger. A Victron unit is about $300 for 50 amp. It works great on Lithium batteries. I use this exact unit on my 600 amps of Lion.

Also keep in mind added weight = extra fuel consumption, slower speeds and the greater possibility of broken parts. Things like your hide a key could be replaced with hiding the keys behind the bumper, etc. Steel is great in many places but I would use aluminum if possible in many to keep the weight down.

not good

 

[Decanter]

not good

5:50-6:20. Don't put all your trust in one video or person. There is a whole industry using DC to DC chargers. Victron's unit has no fan unlike what this "expert" is saying but you're mind is set so have fun with your build.

You also understand the process a lithium battery goes into with bulk, float, etc. When it's about to top off it's not a heavy amperage draw. It's a trickle. Plus there is protection in the electronic systems. https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger#explanation

 

[SkiFreak]

Where do I start....

This guy is assuming you have the alternator directly connected to the LiFePO4 battery, as you might do with a lead acid battery.
That would only be done by someone that knew nothing about charging lithium batteries (AKA - an idiot).
Connecting an alternator directly to a lithium battery is not safe, I agree, as the battery will pull every amp out of the battery that it can get, which will likely overheat the alternator and result in a catastrophic failure.

However... that is not what we are talking about here.
If you use something like a Victron Orion XS, which has been designed specifically to charge lithium batteries from an alternator, it is a completely different ball game.
With this specific unit you can configure the settings to limit the maximum current draw, which means that you can safely charge your lithium battery without fear of overheating or blowing up your alternator.
This particular type of DC/DC charger is no more dangerous than using a MPPT charge controller when it comes to charging lithium batteries. They both work in very similar ways.

Previous DC/DC chargers, like the Orion TR 12/12, were not overly efficient, but they were still alternator safe, because they too could limit the maximum allowed power draw. However, because they were only about 80% efficient, they got pretty damn hot when in use, which did concern some people. You definitely needed to factor this heat production into your design layout, so that you did not create a dangerous heat buildup scenario.
Enter the XS, which is 98% efficient. The greater efficiency translates to much lower operating temperatures, making it a much better option.

What I would argue is that you should not base your opinion on what one guy on YouTube says, as it may not actually be completely true. You have to look at all the facts, not just some of them in isolation.
As I have said numerous times already... you are entitled to your own opinion and if you do not feel safe using a high quality DC/DC charger for your lithium batteries, then don't.

In "my opinion", you are not looking at all the facts.
I stand by my previous comment that a DC/DC charger, specifically the Victron Orion XS, would be a far better option than the wind turbine setup you are thinking of using.
But it's your truck, so you should do whatever you feel comfortable with.



EDIT...
@Decanter was obviously reading my mind while I was writing my reply.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

My OKA has a standard type 85A alternator.
For many years I have charged the 400Ah+ AGM batteries directly from the alternator successfully. Initial charge rates were up to 70A but drop to lower rates quite quickly as the SOC and battery resistance increases.
I recently changed the batteries to 320Ah of CALB with 250A Daily BMS LiFePO4.
On 3 seperate occasions I have charged them from 50% SOC to about 90% SOC directly from the alternator.
No smoke came out
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[gator70]

Where do I start....

This guy is assuming you have the alternator directly connected to the LiFePO4 battery, as you might do with a lead acid battery.
That would only be done by someone that knew nothing about charging lithium batteries (AKA - an idiot).
Connecting an alternator directly to a lithium battery is not safe, I agree, as the battery will pull every amp out of the battery that it can get, which will likely overheat the alternator and result in a catastrophic failure.

However... that is not what we are talking about here.
If you use something like a Victron Orion XS, which has been designed specifically to charge lithium batteries from an alternator, it is a completely different ball game.
With this specific unit you can configure the settings to limit the maximum current draw, which means that you can safely charge your lithium battery without fear of overheating or blowing up your alternator.
This particular type of DC/DC charger is no more dangerous than using a MPPT charge controller when it comes to charging lithium batteries. They both work in very similar ways.

Previous DC/DC chargers, like the Orion TR 12/12, were not overly efficient, but they were still alternator safe, because they too could limit the maximum allowed power draw. However, because they were only about 80% efficient, they got pretty damn hot when in use, which did concern some people. You definitely needed to factor this heat production into your design layout, so that you did not create a dangerous heat buildup scenario.
Enter the XS, which is 98% efficient. The greater efficiency translates to much lower operating temperatures, making it a much better option.

What I would argue is that you should not base your opinion on what one guy on YouTube says, as it may not actually be completely true. You have to look at all the facts, not just some of them in isolation.
As I have said numerous times already... you are entitled to your own opinion and if you do not feel safe using a high quality DC/DC charger for your lithium batteries, then don't.

In "my opinion", you are not looking at all the facts.
I stand by my previous comment that a DC/DC charger, specifically the Victron Orion XS, would be a far better option than the wind turbine setup you are thinking of using.
But it's your truck, so you should do whatever you feel comfortable with.



EDIT...
@Decanter was obviously reading my mind while I was writing my reply.

Lots of good info here

I would like to compare the cost of the setup alternatives.

DC correctly sized cable is much more expensive than AC cable. And I need to run 16 ft

 

[Decanter]

My OKA has a standard type 85A alternator.
For many years I have charged the 400Ah+ AGM batteries directly from the alternator successfully. Initial charge rates were up to 70A but drop to lower rates quite quickly as the SOC and battery resistance increases.
I recently changed the batteries to 320Ah of CALB with 250A Daily BMS LiFePO4.
On 3 seperate occasions I have charged them from 50% SOC to about 90% SOC directly from the alternator.
No smoke came out
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

AGM's deal with alternator current quite well. Thow a Blue Sea isolator on there and have at it. I would not be charging lithium batteries from my alternator directly but you do you.

Careful - Alternator Charging Lithium - Victron Energy

Charging lithium batteries from an alternator, be that in a boat or vehicle, presents some challenges when compared to the straightforward nature of charging lead based batteries. The video in this blog highlights these lithium challenges and shows you what can happen when things go wrong –...

www.victronenergy.com

charging-lithium-batteries-the-basics

 

[andy_b]

Lots of good info here

I would like to compare the cost of the setup alternatives.

DC correctly sized cable is much more expensive than AC cable. And I need to run 16 ft

6 gauge cable isn’t too expensive and the newest Orion XS is not isolated so no “return” run to account for. Probably will be cheaper than the Rube Goldberg solution you were initially entertaining with inverters, wind turbines, or other “solutions”.

 

[gator70]

Re passthrough

It may be hard to see, yet all pass through doors in the truck cab requires a steel or aluminum flat frame inserted.

 

[gator70]

6 gauge cable isn’t too expensive and the newest Orion XS is not isolated so no “return” run to account for. Probably will be cheaper than the Rube Goldberg solution you were initially entertaining with inverters, wind turbines, or other “solutions”.

Cable must be 4 awg at that length

Seems to have part costs in excess of $440

Orion XS (plus tax and shipping)
16ft DC cable (plus tax and shipping)

 

[gator70]

An A/C converter charging solution should be with cable about $180
(plugged into the shore power outlet - on / off switch in cab)

 

[gator70]

Bumper update

2nd hinge supports weight better

Next step, add 12v boat winch to the top six inches above the tire

 

[andy_b]

Cable must be 4 awg at that length

Seems to have part costs in excess of $440

Orion XS (plus tax and shipping)
16ft DC cable (plus tax and shipping)

For anyone reading this thread in the future, this is not accurate.

Source: Blue Sea ampacity chart.

Another great resource at Explorist Life.