Isuzu npr 4wd
- Thread starter gator70
- Start date
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
If you are going to build your own, you might consider something with 'flex', so if/when you hit something with them, they don't bend/break.
Link chain (vary size according to your needs)
Cable (you can tailor the cable diameter to your needs)
Rubber (old OTR truck mud flaps that have fiber reinforcement are perfect)
Link chain (vary size according to your needs)
Cable (you can tailor the cable diameter to your needs)
Rubber (old OTR truck mud flaps that have fiber reinforcement are perfect)
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
I don't know if it is as practicable on a COE truck, but on my C4500 Kodiak, the running boards are reachable (24"), but I add a foldaway step so when around town and 'smoother terrain', I can have a lower step and with rough terrain, just fold it up and pin in place. (photos taken during fabrication so not completed/ finished)
Step folded up for 'rough terrain'
Step down for 'normal usage'
Step, tube ends are now closed so 'junk' does not collect in them. HDPE pivot bushings. (stock gap in running boards in this photo. Widen for step clearance by just reposting the running boards on existing brackets).
If you build your own step, the width and more importantly if it stick out a little makes a world if difference for access. My MB1017 (left) steps were much easier than my Fuso (right)
Step folded up for 'rough terrain'
Step down for 'normal usage'
Step, tube ends are now closed so 'junk' does not collect in them. HDPE pivot bushings. (stock gap in running boards in this photo. Widen for step clearance by just reposting the running boards on existing brackets).
If you build your own step, the width and more importantly if it stick out a little makes a world if difference for access. My MB1017 (left) steps were much easier than my Fuso (right)
Ultimark
Active member
The lowered step is fabricated by All Terrain Warriors, it is not an Isuzu part.
Mick.
Flexible Packing
(some Australian guidelines)
I'm trying to understand this "Flexible Packing"
++++++++++++++
Company Name:
Transport Certification Services
Address:
Factory 14/69 Acacia Road
Ferntree Gully, Victoria 3156
Australia
Contact Details:
As of this moment my design approach is in the first picture
(some Australian guidelines)
I'm trying to understand this "Flexible Packing"
++++++++++++++
Company Name:
Transport Certification Services
Address:
Factory 14/69 Acacia Road
Ferntree Gully, Victoria 3156
Australia
Contact Details:
- Phone: 03 9753 5200
- Fax: 03 9753 5600
- Email: info@transportengineer.com
- Website: www.transportengineer.com
As of this moment my design approach is in the first picture
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Ultimark
Active member
As I understand it, the idea is to inhibit, or better still, completely eradicate fretting corrosion. When we were having our camper built in 2009, we intended to place it atop a steel tray. Being steel to steel, fretting would certainly occur, the slide-on camper manufacturer suggested we use a specially treated timber spacer to virtually eliminate fretting corrosion. We did, and it has been successful.
I took these pictures a few minutes ago of our camper, which is now atop an aluminium tray on our truck. As you can see, it runs the full length of the camper sliders. Quite some time ago we were camped alongside a similar camper arrangement that was steel to steel. We could easily detect fretting corrosion occurring, which while apparent to the owners of the camper, it wasn't something they thought there was anything they could do to stop the corrosion happening.
The last picture is the most important one for you. There you can see the flexible packing between the chassis rail and the steel tray frame built by our second stage truck manufacturer, which in this case was All Terrain Warriors. With Isuzu in Japan, being the first stage manufacturer.
Mick.
I took these pictures a few minutes ago of our camper, which is now atop an aluminium tray on our truck. As you can see, it runs the full length of the camper sliders. Quite some time ago we were camped alongside a similar camper arrangement that was steel to steel. We could easily detect fretting corrosion occurring, which while apparent to the owners of the camper, it wasn't something they thought there was anything they could do to stop the corrosion happening.
The last picture is the most important one for you. There you can see the flexible packing between the chassis rail and the steel tray frame built by our second stage truck manufacturer, which in this case was All Terrain Warriors. With Isuzu in Japan, being the first stage manufacturer.
Mick.
I'm really going to overkill on the habitat to subframe connection engineering.
This is taking time and well thought out steps. All custom fabrication.
(The habitat is raised 26 inches off the ground on blocks for fabrication work, So we are working underneath in that crawl space)
Theses 70 mph cross winds in my area have me cautious about what I do.
Now planning the rear spring bracket mount location and there is also a challenge as the rear of the truck frame behind the rear leaf spring mount bracket is very crowded.
A frame cross member, a fuel filler tube hole in the frame, ect
(stock photo)
This is taking time and well thought out steps. All custom fabrication.
(The habitat is raised 26 inches off the ground on blocks for fabrication work, So we are working underneath in that crawl space)
Theses 70 mph cross winds in my area have me cautious about what I do.
Now planning the rear spring bracket mount location and there is also a challenge as the rear of the truck frame behind the rear leaf spring mount bracket is very crowded.
A frame cross member, a fuel filler tube hole in the frame, ect
(stock photo)
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Korey H
Well-known member
Any updates on your build? Additional thoughts on your potential “kit”. I’ve been eyeing up Ridge Rock conversion on a crew cab NRR and now see EC is coming back for Core vehicles (though those are likely beyond my pain threshold). Currently in a C5500 crew 4x4 for a family of six.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
For both my Kodiak's camper (mil-surplus boarding steps) ↓ and the Power Wagon GZL300 (AL step ladder) ↓
I just lay them on the floor inside the door. No need to stow them out of the way, as to get into the cabin I need to pull them out and use them.
I've never had any issues with them sliding around, but I do hook a simple bungie cord to mitigate that. I guess the only thing I keep simple? YMMV
My habitat is getting the subframe installed.
My truck is finished but awaiting on the aux fuel tank install.
I don't have a shop, so I depend on others. And I don't want the truck to arrive and do the habitat marriage until all below frame work is finished.
I had various engineering challenges about the habitat, subframe, truck frame connection and I slow walked all options until the perfect solution was obvious.
Upon studying the attachment engineering that others used. I was shocked as it did not meet how this should be done. Some may say mine is overkill, but its a piece of mind choice.
I can't depend on habitat composite floors delamination (from a engineering point of view) while holding 4000 lbs.
Honestly in the end of the day all is opinion.
My engineering is completely different.
Below is the engineering I did not like.
A "non composite habitat" is done this way below (not mine)
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SkiFreak
Crazy Person
Well... we both agree on that.
Below is a picture of a cabinet above the sink in the kitchen. I would like to store some kitchen items here. As you will see this cabinet has many wires traveling from the roof solar panels.
Does anyone have a suggestion how I can fabricate a false back panel to allow a compartment for the wires, while isolating space for kitchen items.
Any suggestions, pics, ect?
Does anyone have a suggestion how I can fabricate a false back panel to allow a compartment for the wires, while isolating space for kitchen items.
Any suggestions, pics, ect?
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