john101477
Photographer in the Wild
Looks like it is coming together really nice Vic. The aluminum bed is kind of neat. where they able to set up mounting locations for the camper?
Isuzu NPR HD Truck Camper Build
- Thread starter VicHanson
- Start date
ozzyfishaman
Adventurer
VicHanson
Adventurer
We thought of using the drain fitting. I don't really expect to be in too rough terrain with it as it is only 2WD, but keeping the tanks isolated from each other might be wise.
Gait - How much does the Pollack valve cost? I couldn't find it for sale anywhere.
John - The camper portion will be 5" higher than the garage part, to allow 49" height for the bike. Dana offered to make a mount for that but it was quite expensive so I am just doing that with wood - three 4x4s under the camper and 2x4s around the outside, with a 2x6 around this to tie the camper to the bed. The garage won't have a separate floor, it will bolt directly to the flatbed floor.
Jeffery - and any others,
How do you attach your camper to the flat bed? Is it all done at the base of the camper or do you have tie downs higher up in the front?
Vic
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gait
Explorer
I'm in Aus. I bought mine about 3 years ago from US company website - no longer exists.
Note the spelling has no "c".
Clicking the map on Pollak's website gives address/agent in state
http://www.pollakaftermarket.com/aftermarket_rep.htm
eBay prices are around US$60 from US suppliers.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLL...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLL...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Autozone (US automotive parts chain?) have Duralast FSV2 - Fuel Selector Valve - reputedly same as Pollak at US$60.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...e=Fuel+Tank+Selector+Valve&_requestid=2515877
whatcharterboat
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Vic,
You can do this. If you want to just T them together, you will need to fit a ball valve on each drain fitting so you can isolate either tank if needed. Make really sure of the run between the tanks though. You may even need to run a bar across to support the hoses. The hiccup might be that the tailsahft is right about the same height as the drains meaning you could possibly go around the front of the engine rather than go under the shaft????? Hey, you'll have to check that yourself on the truck. The T and the whole length of the bridging hose has to stay as low as the drains or it won't work properly when it gets towards the bottom but sure.......it's a simple system and some prefer to have the tanks drain evenly to keep the weight level and I've even seen this setup with only one gauge in one tank as they will balance out. The isolation valves usually end up being used only in an emergency situation anyway.
Remember all those Pollak valves are 12 volt too. Well at least all the ones we get here are. Not 24v like you NPR so you'll have to reduce the voltage somewhere along the line. No problem with switching the gauge signal though AND they have 10mm & 8mm ports (or whatever that is in English....3/8" & 5/16", I think). The fuel lines on your NPR are probably 12mm & 10mm so you'll need some brass barbed and stepped joiners. The last thing you want is air leaks. Don't worry about theoretical reduced flow through the valve. It never bothers them.
John.
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VicHanson
Adventurer
Thanks for the great idea, John, so simple, cheap and effective - I like it. It's a rainy morning here so will check out the routing of the fuel lines and see how it will work. No problem on 12v here, U.S. NPRs are 12v, not 24, they still have 2 batteries but they are hooked in parallel.
God bless, Vic
whatcharterboat
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Well you learn something new everyday!!! Are they all 12v, I wonder ? Even the new ones?
Hey guess what.... He does.
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with very very few exceptions, every car and truck in the US is 12 volt negative ground. Been that way for as long as I can remember. I am sure someone will prove me wrong somehow, but we dont get 24V auto stuff like much of the rest of the world. Some military stuff maybe and??
VicHanson
Adventurer
Forgot that yesterday was Sat. and Tripp Lite was closed, so still don't have any answer on the inverter.
This afternoon my cousin Jim and I decided to put the camper on the truck so we could move it under a covered work area - more rain is in the forcast. The biggest problem was that I had taken the camper jacks off of it when I first started. The wood under them was all rotten and needed to be replaced. We decided to put the jacks under the over cab bed area, jack that up enough to get the end of the truck bed under it, and then jack up the rear of the camper and try to slide the camper on the truck, using pipe for rollers. Of course with the jacks not being attached, they were very wobbly and the camper started to slide sideways off of the stand. We quickly lowered it back down and next tried two 20 ton bottle jacks under the front of the camper.
We were able to get it up enough to get the truck under a few inches, using 2x12s on the frame. We then jacked up the back of the stand under the camper to see if we could raise the whole thing, block up the camper and then remove the stand out from under it. We were getting way too much moving around of the camper so Jim used his small John Deere tractor and loader to try to lift up just the back of the camper. We then blocked that up and took out the stand and put it back in sideways, just in case anything slipped. Now we tried to jack up the front again but that caused it to move forward a little on the truck and slipped off the loader. Thankfully the stand was right below it and that caught it. We also had a cable hoist attached to the front of the bed, with a sling going around the whole camper, to keep it from sliding backwards.
We finally decided to just lift up the back of the camper with the loader and I would try to back the truck under the camper, hoping it would slide onto the truck, with the loader holding it from moving backwards. This worked and we were able to get the camper part way on the truck, removed the stand and then got it all the way on. We got it moved to a covered work area about an hour before the rain started! Next we need to lift the camper back off the truck, using a combination of jacks and ceiling hoists, and put the stand back underneith so we can finish the bed of the truck
I tried loading the photos a little while ago (using a Verizon aircard on my laptop, and it wasn't getting a good signal), will try again after I post this.
Vic
This afternoon my cousin Jim and I decided to put the camper on the truck so we could move it under a covered work area - more rain is in the forcast. The biggest problem was that I had taken the camper jacks off of it when I first started. The wood under them was all rotten and needed to be replaced. We decided to put the jacks under the over cab bed area, jack that up enough to get the end of the truck bed under it, and then jack up the rear of the camper and try to slide the camper on the truck, using pipe for rollers. Of course with the jacks not being attached, they were very wobbly and the camper started to slide sideways off of the stand. We quickly lowered it back down and next tried two 20 ton bottle jacks under the front of the camper.
We were able to get it up enough to get the truck under a few inches, using 2x12s on the frame. We then jacked up the back of the stand under the camper to see if we could raise the whole thing, block up the camper and then remove the stand out from under it. We were getting way too much moving around of the camper so Jim used his small John Deere tractor and loader to try to lift up just the back of the camper. We then blocked that up and took out the stand and put it back in sideways, just in case anything slipped. Now we tried to jack up the front again but that caused it to move forward a little on the truck and slipped off the loader. Thankfully the stand was right below it and that caught it. We also had a cable hoist attached to the front of the bed, with a sling going around the whole camper, to keep it from sliding backwards.
We finally decided to just lift up the back of the camper with the loader and I would try to back the truck under the camper, hoping it would slide onto the truck, with the loader holding it from moving backwards. This worked and we were able to get the camper part way on the truck, removed the stand and then got it all the way on. We got it moved to a covered work area about an hour before the rain started! Next we need to lift the camper back off the truck, using a combination of jacks and ceiling hoists, and put the stand back underneith so we can finish the bed of the truck
I tried loading the photos a little while ago (using a Verizon aircard on my laptop, and it wasn't getting a good signal), will try again after I post this.
Vic
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You've got bad timing for working outside Vic. I've been in Fort Myers 13 years and this is the coldest, wettest winter since I moved here.
I'm buried getting my stuff ready for the Expo. If you're still here when I get back from AZ I want to come by and check out your progress.
I'm buried getting my stuff ready for the Expo. If you're still here when I get back from AZ I want to come by and check out your progress.
VicHanson
Adventurer
OK, I'm outside now, actually in my truck because there are still a few rain drops, and I have a good signal so will post the photos.
The front of the camper is up on the skid planks
Jacking attempts
Jacking up the back of the stand
On part way with the stand sideways
It's on!
The little tractor that could!
The front of the camper is up on the skid planks
Jacking attempts
Jacking up the back of the stand
On part way with the stand sideways
It's on!
The little tractor that could!
Ned B
New member
Vic,
I'll be following along as you continue your refit of the old shadow cruiser. I lived full time out of a 27' 5th wheel trailer from them. That very distinctive nose cap brought a smile to my face when I saw it. I was amazed at just how much rot was in there though, you're a much braver man than I am though for tackling that rebuild. I'd have been figuring out just how hard it would have been to refit the box truck myself at that point too. Best of luck with the project, can't wait to see it finished.
I'll be following along as you continue your refit of the old shadow cruiser. I lived full time out of a 27' 5th wheel trailer from them. That very distinctive nose cap brought a smile to my face when I saw it. I was amazed at just how much rot was in there though, you're a much braver man than I am though for tackling that rebuild. I'd have been figuring out just how hard it would have been to refit the box truck myself at that point too. Best of luck with the project, can't wait to see it finished.
VicHanson
Adventurer
Jim - This is my coldest and wettest winter here too, of course it is my first! Sure was nice working out of the rain today!
Ned - That distinctive nose cap was the reason I wanted a Shadow Cruiser, I'm hoping that it will help a lot with wind resistance.
Tore out the bad stuff on the back today, the right rear corner was really bad, underneath the reinforcement for the camper jack. The biggest problem is going to be replacing the plywood part way underneath the bathroom. After much debate, I have decided to move the door from the back to the right side. I'm taking out the gas/120v fridge and putting in the new 120v one that I bought. After doing that, it will be very easy to move the door to the side. I plan on making the storage on that side only accessible from the inside, it will be under the side bench for the table, except for a section in the front. The fresh water tank is under the front bench, so I am going to try to put another water tank in the front along the side, and tie it into the original one.
The framework and plywood are rotten for about 6-10" on the bottom
I couldn't get the bolts loose because the nut inside was turning, so just ripped it all apart
I don't know how it ever held up the camper!
Ned - That distinctive nose cap was the reason I wanted a Shadow Cruiser, I'm hoping that it will help a lot with wind resistance.
Tore out the bad stuff on the back today, the right rear corner was really bad, underneath the reinforcement for the camper jack. The biggest problem is going to be replacing the plywood part way underneath the bathroom. After much debate, I have decided to move the door from the back to the right side. I'm taking out the gas/120v fridge and putting in the new 120v one that I bought. After doing that, it will be very easy to move the door to the side. I plan on making the storage on that side only accessible from the inside, it will be under the side bench for the table, except for a section in the front. The fresh water tank is under the front bench, so I am going to try to put another water tank in the front along the side, and tie it into the original one.
The framework and plywood are rotten for about 6-10" on the bottom
I couldn't get the bolts loose because the nut inside was turning, so just ripped it all apart
I don't know how it ever held up the camper!