Isuzu NPR HD Truck Camper Build

[VicHanson]

Well the time has come to start my build thread. I've got about 9 days left here in Peru, flying to Miami on March 1st. If you are interested in any background to this, please see my previous preliminary planning thread.

I have my truck, a 2001 NPR HD, 5 speed diesel, the truck camper, a 1990 Shadow Cruiser Truck Camper, and a 1991 25' Fleetwood Terry Trailer waiting for me in Florida. Friends helped me buy the truck, and gave me the trailer, and my cousin helped with the truck camper. So far I've seen good pictures of the truck, one small picture of the outside of the truck camper, and none of the trailer. Needless to say I am getting a big anxious to see the goods in person!

From reading other build threads, it looks like one needs to be open to changes and modifications as the build progresses, especially being that this is my first major project like this. I get lots of what seem like good ideas in my head, putting them into practice is a different story.

After many changes of ideas and modifications to the plans already, here is my current thinking and plan. The truck currently has a 14' cargo box, with a power lift gate on it. I will need to remove this, and hopefully be able to sell it. I plan on building basically a wooden flatbed on the truck frame, and then mounting the truck camper on that. I will box in along the sides of the camper to make storage compartments, much like IdaSHO did here. An option would be to use ready made metal under body truck boxes, but I hope to be able to save some money by making them myself out of wood. My main problem is that I haven't welded in about 40 years, and I didn't know much about it then. I had hoped to have a brother-in-law help me, but he doesn't have the time, and also isn't in Florida. I had originally wanted to build the camper and garage from scratch as one unit, but decided not to because of the cost and time needed to build it. If at some time in the future I change my mind, I can always cannibalize the truck camper and use the components from that to build one.

The camper will be mounted farther back on the truck, so that the cab over portion ends at the back of the truck cab, rather than extending over the cab. There are two reasons for this, the first is that the cab needs to tilt for engine access and I want a bike garage under the cab over bed. I am trying to keep the overall height as low as possible, so I didn't want to raise the camper up enough to clear the cab, or make the camper raiseable to tilt the cab. I had also considered mounting the motorbike on a bumper mount, but decided that the garage was a better option. The garage will also hold the deep cycle batteries, and probably an extra fresh water tank among other things.

The cab over portion will be shortened to 4 feet, which will bring the overall length of the camper/garage unit to 13 to 13 1/2 feet (I don't have the exact measurement of the camper yet). I am trying to keep the total camper length as short as possible. I'm hoping to build the flatbed base as a split level with the back raised up enough to give tire clearance, and the front as low as possible to give more headroom in the garage. This will probably require using steel outriggers bolted to both sides of the truck frame to support the wooden flatbed portion. This will also give a little lower lift height for loading the bike. My dream bike is a Honda CRF-230L but I don't want to spend that much money, so unless I can find a really good deal, might settle for a Yamaha XT225.

I plan on towing the 25' trailer to use as a base camp for longer term stays and trips. The truck camper will be self sufficient electrical wise, with 400 to 600 watts of solar panels and six T105RE Trojan 6v deep cycle batteries for a total of 675 AH of capacity. Where possible I hope to use electric power rather than propane for extended boondocking rather than in campgrounds with hookups. The truck system will supply power to the trailer when I am using them both together.

Well, that's enough to start with, will add more details soon if time allows, and hope to begin the actual build during the 1st week of March.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Vic. Good Luck with the build. I know it will always seems like an overwhelming task ahead but one day you just sort of run out of things to do. Then use it for a quick trip. Make whatever small changes you need and go. Just go.

Do your research on your build well beforehand and after it's all said and done. It is what it is. Don't look back and wish you had done it differently. It is what it is. And I'm sure you'll do a tremendous job.

Doug Hackney always says "It's not about the build, it's about the journey" (paraphrasing here). For me it's all about the build but that's different cause it's my job. Just trying to say, don't get too caught up in it and don't become too overwhelmed.

John

 

[VicHanson]

Thanks, John. Would appreciate yours, and anyone else's comments and advice as I post here, I'm going to be learning as I build but would prefer not to do it by making anymore mistakes than necessary!

Vic

 

[alan]

hey john!
when do you run out of things to do?

 

[VicHanson]

I've got a question (the first of many!) that I need advise on. What is the best way to mount the truck camper to the wooden flatbed base? I plan on making the base out of 2x4s (fir or oak?) running from side to side, covered by 3/4 or 1 inch tongue and groove plywood. The 2x4s will be on 12 or 18 inch spacings. The plywood joint also will go side to side.

The majority of the camper weight will be supported by the normal lower center section of the camper, that normally sits on the floor of the pickup bed. My idea is to put 2x4s flat on top of the flatbed base, along the sides of the camper, so it can't shift from side to side. This will also provide an attachment point if there is enough solid material in the camper frame to attach to. This won't work in the front because the garage floor will be lower, and I'm not sure about the back. I think the back of the camper is designed to hang down below the back of the pickup bed, but I am not sure. The side storage compartments will rest on the flatbed base, but will also be attached to the camper on top.

I do not plan on removing the camper once it is attached to the truck. I plan on putting insulation under the bed and between the side storage units and the camper (both on the sides and top of the storage units).

Thanks for any help,
Vic

 

[VicHanson]

Hi Peter, good to hear from you as I know you know wood! I've been following your build, nice!

I know nothing about boat building, or fiberglassing, so nothing about epoxy. What specific epoxy are you recommending? Is it made just for wood or is it for fiberglass, just without the cloth? What wood would you recommend as being stronger and better quality? I just remember my dad building extension sides for a pickup out of oak planks to haul grain. I know it is strong, heavy and expensive - is there something better to use?

To laminate the plywood sheets you said to use 'many drywall screws'. Is that every 12", every 6" or what? If the screws go into the permanent 2x4 frame, they don't need to be taken out, do they? What is the best way to apply the glue for large surfaces like that? Brush? Roller?

Is the 3M 5200 just to be used between the truck frame and the longitudinal wood (2x4s or 3x4s?, unless I need to raise the bed higher for tire clearance) on the frame, or should it be used between the cross 2x4s and the plywood deck as well? I was looking at Home Depot's Milstead WeatherShield timbers - 6x6 cut in half? But it doesn't say what kind of wood it is, just that it is pressure treated for termites, fungus and rot.

I am still debating whether to use U bolt clamps to hold the flatbed to the truck or flat plates bolted on. I'm leaning towards the plates so I don't have to cut grooves for the U bolts.

Yeah, the power lift would make a nice lift for the motorcycle if I was using a rear mounted carrier. Hopefully I can find someone who will buy it to help offset some of the cost of the truck.

Sorry for all the questions! Thanks.
Vic

 

[VicHanson]

I should be sorting and packing, but this is more fun. Also, supposedly have 3 buyers who are interested in buying my van tomorrow – that would really be nice!

You've given me lots to chew on Peter, thanks. I guess I will start with your last post, reusing the existing box. I hadn't thought of what you are suggesting, but it is an intriguing idea. I don't know anything about how the boxes are constructed either. If it was exactly the right width, I suppose it could be cut down to fit under the over cab bed for the garage in front, and cut down in the back like the box on a pickup, and just set the camper into it – storage units would be already made! Unfortunately I don't know the width of either the box or the camper at this point, and can't really decide about that until I see it anyway, so no use bothering my friends there for measurements (and I'll be there in a week).

Having lived on the West Coast for almost 20 years, I was mostly familiar with pine and Douglas fir so also don't know what is available on the East Coast. I've been reading up about treated lumber and the need for galvanized fasteners and connectors, so if I decide to use that, guess I will have to see what is recommended for the lumber I use.

Thanks for all the info on treated lumber, sealing, adhesives and the rest. I expect I will probably use 2 sheets of ½ inch plywood to make the floor of the base. As far as plates with bolts on wood, good to know I can't do that with 2x4s. How about 3x6? Or is it just a bad idea in general with wood? With U bolts, I would have to either put a groove in the top of the beam, or in the plywood (or both?). Don't know what I was thinking - I just looked at an NPR now with a box on it. I forgot that the place above the U bolts is open space, separated from the plywood by the width of the cross pieces. This one had a metal framed box and they did put a wood cushion between that and the truck frame (see below) Maybe it would be better to use a steel beam on top of the truck frame and make the rest out of wood. Then bolt the wood to the steel beam...ahh, but how do you get the nuts inside a steel beam!?!? Unless it is open on one side, like the frame.

I have the NPR body builder's guide, complete with it's poor Japlish! It says the tires need 7.8 inches of clearance to the bed. It is a bit confusing about mounting though, in some places it shows using a wood cushion between the metal on the truck frame and the metal on the bed frame, and in other places it shows metal on metal. It doesn't really say that the wood cushion is required, guess I will need to call Isuzu if I decide to use metal.

Thanks much, Vic

 

[UHAULER]

I know i've suggested it before but I'll say it again anyways. Why don't you convert the existing box into the camper. It appears to be a well made, high quality box. It's already mounted properly to the truck, looks much better IMO than a cabover on a flatbed, has a much bigger, useable floor space than the camper and will probably weigh less and cost less in the end. You could use all of the parts/windows from the camper. It would also be possible to build a motorcycle garage in the front by putting a door in the side and framing it in allowing you to put the bed over the motorcycle storage.

 

[VicHanson]

Personally I'm not a fan of cargo box conversions, although you are probably right that it would look better, less pieced together. Who knows what will happen when I actually see the truck and the camper in person, maybe I will have a change of heart.

Well I have sold almost everything here except for my van and a pair of trekking poles, and my suitcases are full! I leave for Lima tomorrow afternoon, and having sold my laptop also, not sure how much internet time I will have till I get to Miami on Monday - where I have a new laptop waiting as well.

Please keep the comments coming, I appreciate the ideas and help.

Vic

 

[UHAULER]

I look forward to seeing your progress however you build it. It's all about getting out and having fun.

Sean

 

[VicHanson]

I arrived in Miami on Monday afternoon and on the way to where I am staying got to stop by and see my truck - it looks great! Went to Walmart in the evening and got a cell phone with Straight Talk, the $30 a month prepaid plan (1000 min, 1000 text messages and 30 MB of data) and a Samsung R451C phone with a slide out QWERTY keyboard ($100), which uses the Verizon network. Seems to work good, but I'm still trying to figure out the web part of it.

Ahh, the joys of trying to work outside the system! I had received two quotes online for RV insurance, one with Good Sam (GMAC) for $791 per year and the other with Progressive for $844 per year. Yesterday I got the title signed by the seller and this morning I called to get insurance on the truck, so I could get my temporary registration to drive it from Florida to Minnesota.

I called Progressive first to see if they could somehow match GMAC's price but they said they didn't have any listings for Isuzu motorhomes (actually there were some a number of years ago) and when I gave them the VIN number they said they could not insure it as an RV because it was registered as a commercial vehicle (belonged to a small package shipping and mailing service), and was not built as a motorhome. I asked how much it would cost to insure it as a commercial vehicle and they said they don't insure commercial vehicles.

I then called GMAC and they said the same thing. I can't believe that GMAC doesn't insure commercial vehicles! For both of these I called the toll free numbers that were listed on the quotes. One of them said something about not being able to insure it if I put a truck camper on it!

Next I called the agent in Minnesota where I had previously insured my car when have I returned home for a month or two every year (the vehicle will be registered in MN), which is also Progressive. He said they couldn't do it as an RV but he could do it as a truck. However because it listed as a commercial vehicle it costs more to insure it if it is used outside of a 100 mile radius of where it is registered! It ended up costing about $100 more for six months, with less coverage. They also wouldn't put road service on it because it is a commercial vehicle! It doesn't make any difference that I'm not using it commercially and don't even have a business.

Anyway, I finally got insurance on it and they faxed proof for the registration, so I was able to get a 30 day temporary permit to drive it back to Minn. to register it. Because I will be mounting the camper here in Florida, I asked about renewing the permit if I need more time and they said no problem.

I picked up the truck and on the way home I stopped a Home Depot to check on wood, tools, etc. and confirmed that the prices here are 10 - 20% higher than in Northern Minnesota! I was looking at lumber and plywood, but couldn't find out what kind of wood it was. I wanted Douglas Fir, but only found a small amount of that, and nothing in the sizes or dimensions I need. I looked at the pressure treated lumber but it didn't say what kind of wood it was. I asked the "sales" guy, and he had no idea, but took me to the customer service desk in the lumber department to find out. Both of them gave me the same answer when I asked what kind of wood it was. First answer was "pressure treated". Thanks, I can read that. What "kind" of wood is it?, I asked again. "Prime" they said. I said that prime is a grade of wood, not a kind of wood. Received blank looks. So I then asked if it was Southern Pine. "Yes, I think so!" was the reply, so I guess they just needed some prompting! I guess I will have to find a real lumber yard, but first will give Lowes a try.

Tomorrow the pastor and church here who have been helping me, need to pick up some donated office furniture, so I'm able to use my truck for that and repay them some for their kindness. Then in the afternoon I will go to my cousin's to look at the truck camper! :wings:

Vic

 

[VicHanson]

First Impressions

I finally got to drive my truck today, the first time I have every driven an NPR. It is definitely not a Honda!! The 5 speed shifter is reversed, I'm used to 1st being top left and reverse being bottom right. The NPR has reverse in the top left position, 1st below that and 5th being bottom right. There is a strong spring to push against to get to the far left for reverse and 1st, and a somewhat less strong spring to get to 4th and 5th. The 1st gear is very low, which will be nice for off road driving, but it easily starts in 2nd, at least with no load on it. I think I will be able to get used to it fairly quickly.

A bigger difference is the low speed of the Isuzu diesel engine. It doesn't have a tach but it is really a low revving engine. I need to read the manual tonight and see what they recommend for shift points, but 10 mph seems about right to shift out of 2nd, with 15 being about max. My friend, pastor Eddie said that when he picked it up and drove it back to the church, he couldn't get it above 70 mph on the freeway. Does that sound normal to any of you familiar with the NPR? It seems to have plenty of power at low RPMs, I didn't get on the freeway so never got it above 50 mph.

I was pleased with how it drove, handles well and turns nice and tight. I was a bit concerned making my first U turn at an intersection, and realized too late that I should have tried one in a parking lot first. However it turned very sharply, which I guess is an advantage of the cab over design. You can bet that I was really being careful and watching my mirrors on turns so that I didn't cut the corners too close!

I was also very happy with how it rode. The truck was empty, but does have the 14' cargo box on it, with a power lift gate. It wasn't harsh or rough, felt smooth and controlled over bumps and a couple of dips. Will see how it does on the freeway tomorrow. I love the wide open view and the high seating position, lots of glass with the big windows and windshield.

So far all is good, I'll keep you informed.
Vic

 

[VicHanson]

A quick update - I drove to Fort Meyers, FL on Thursday, about 140 miles. The truck drove and handled well, but I was going into a strong headwind almost the whole way and mileage was terrible! I haven't filled yet but looks like it got about 10 MPG! I was hoping/expecting about 15 mpg so that was a big disappointment. Hopefully it was the headwind and the high box. I was driving right at 60 mph, which is what I expect to travel at. Maybe I will have to slow down even more!

At first glance the truck camper looked pretty good, there was some rot around the bathroom at floor level in the back, so figured it was probably the shower leaking. However when I started taking the siding off to look at it, it is much worse than it appeared. It looks like it was the seams leaking in the siding, and goes all the way around on the left side to the front. There is a lot of damage where the water heater is, which is also where the water inlets are. Not sure if it is the hose connection or not, but everything around there was rotten.

The camper construction is 1x2s laying flat, with a very thin plywood on the inside and none on the outside, just the aluminum siding attached to the framework. And 3/4" of fiberglass insulation. I will have to take much of the siding off to repair the wood, so am thinking about putting 1/8" plywood under the siding, and maybe putting in a better insulation.

I did also consider cannibalizing the camper and using the cargo box on the truck but have pretty well ruled out that idea. There is some serious looking rust on the truck frame, where the box attaches to that. The floor of the box frame is steel and there is a 1x4 between that and the truck frame. There is lots of rust in spots where the wood touches the frame. I'm wondering if maybe they used pressure treated wood directly on the metal and didn't put anything between them to protect the metal. So, I want to take the box off and check the frame carefully, clean up all the rust and repaint it. The box also has the power lift gate, which would be nice to load a motorcycle, but it is heavy, hangs low, and is in the way to put on a trailer hitch, so I think I will get rid of both of them (they are actually welded together).

I've got lots of photos, but haven't had internet access until today. I will try to get some posted soon and document the progress.

 

[kerry]

Don't know about the Isuzu but 70mph would be about the top end for a Fuso FG. 11mpg is about the low end of a Fuso in my experience, so 10mpg is not out of the question in my opinion.
Too bad about the rot in the camper. That's always a problem in wood based campers. Years ago I sold a Toyota pickup based Class C camper to a friend. A few years later his wife was laying in bed in the cabover and crashed right thru down onto the hood of the truck. The good news is that they are pretty easy to rebuild. Last time I was over at RV.net on the truck camper forum I saw lots of good pictures on rebuilding rotted wooden frames. If it were me, I'd rebuild with better quality wood and fasteners and glue everything.

 

[jhrodd]

I just got back from a 3000 mile trip in the FE (6 spd. auto) and averaged 10.4 mpg with a scooter on the front bumper and 7 more on a trailer behind. Drove down the Oregon Coast and through the Redwoods......to Las Vegas then back through Northern Nevada and Idaho