It's done! 3.0-liter turbo-diesel FJ60 from TLC

[DesertRose]

You wouldn't by any chance have a couple of shots of the truck looking straight on from the front and back would you? I am thinking about running that tire or a on my FJ60 and am just trying to see how it is going to look. I'm glad to see that the truck turned out so well and that you're happy with it.

Hi Sloan,

I don't have a straight on front or back shot - here's a fun one, though, from the Expedition Trophy:

Like Spike the Bulldog and Chester the Terrrier from Looney Tunes.

I really like the tire/wheel combination. I'll see if I can snap a front/rear shot for you.

 

[DesertRose]

I took a look at the EPA mileage ratings for 2009 SUVs, and posted the results here
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=286205

Conclusion: The 25-26 mpg Roseann reports is 30% to 60% more fuel efficient than
any similar-size expedition vehicle today. And it's more capable off-road.

A few examples, using EPA's combined city/highway mpg rating

2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0L V6 diesel 4WD........19 mpg
2009 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD........19 mpg
2009 Jeep Wrangler V6 4WD........16 mpg
2009 Toyota Land Cruiser V8.........15 mpg

That research is what lead me to this project in the first place. After we re-gear back to 370s (in progress), and break the engine in (10K? not sure), that should go up another couple of mpg or more.

I really underestimated the costs of a new engine, but in the end it's the best for me. I didn't want an older Toyota diesel or other brand that I'd just have to rebuild, and which wasn't of modern standards for emissions and efficiency. I figured with the high costs of used half-cuts anyway, I was most of the way there with a new engine . . .

And remember, for all you "you'll never recover the costs" people, it's not about trying to save $$ on mileage, it's about getting a new / retro combo overland vehicle that is lighter on the environment, too. I'm not trying to save money on mileage to offset the build cost. I would have bought a new vehicle anyway, having a Tacoma with 215,000K on it.

 

[Sloan]

Thanks Rosaeanne, anything you can do would be appreciated. I just got the FJ60 back form my friend who rebuilt everything with new carb and intake exhaust manifold. Once I get the motor broken in I am going to start experimenting with tire sizes, gearing and shaving weight from the truck. One more question about your tires, what psi are you running on them? I noticed on tirerack.com that the max. is 80 which would help immensely with mpg. How harsh is the ride? What's holding me up from commiting to the 235 is that the 33-9.5 is 5 pounds lighter but may require going to 4.11 gearing. Thanks again for fielding the questions. :roost:

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

The 235/85 is a load range E tire, so the maximum allowed pressure is quite high. But that doesn't prevent you from running them at more normal pressures. We haven't chalked ours yet, so I just eyed them and decided on 40 front and 35 rear for now. 80 psi in these things would have them running on a center strip of tread about two inches wide on even a fully loaded 60!

If I could pick only one tire size for every 4x4 I owned for the rest of my life, it would be the 235/85/16. It just does so many things so well. And any rim it will fit will take a 7.50/16, the most ubiquitous tire size virtually everywhere else in the world.

The 33/9.50/15 is good, though, if you want a bit more ground clearance. Not sure you'd need to regear. I'd try them first.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

A little late to the party but you may try Proffitt's cruisers for a paint job possibly...

 

[Sloan]

The 235/85 is a load range E tire, so the maximum allowed pressure is quite high. But that doesn't prevent you from running them at more normal pressures. We haven't chalked ours yet, so I just eyed them and decided on 40 front and 35 rear for now. 80 psi in these things would have them running on a center strip of tread about two inches wide on even a fully loaded 60!

If I could pick only one tire size for every 4x4 I owned for the rest of my life, it would be the 235/85/16. It just does so many things so well. And any rim it will fit will take a 7.50/16, the most ubiquitous tire size virtually everywhere else in the world.

The 33/9.50/15 is good, though, if you want a bit more ground clearance. Not sure you'd need to regear. I'd try them first.

I didn't think of that, that has the potential of being the first Landcruiser hovercraft. I was down at EE picking up the last 2 issues of Overland Journal and they had basically the same thing to say about the tires. I am running 33-10.5 MTs right now and the issue is that 4th is just a little too tall on the big hills around Los Angeles. I have to be patient and work through the motor break in before I commit to new shoes for the old girl. This would be a lot easier if both size tires required either 15" or 16" wheels since I am going to spring for the Outback TX-1s. The other factor is that the 33-9.5 is 5 lbs. lighter than the 235 and the 15x7 TX-1 wheel is 16.3 lbs. as opposed to 20lbs. for the 16x7.

 

[ChuckB]

I have a question because I don't remember seeing this anywhere, correct me if I'm wrong.

The 3.0 doesn't require ULSD correct?

(edit) now that I think about it this is probably a dumb question since it is a non-US motor...

 

[charlieaarons]

It's not a dumb question, but....
The need for ULSD has NOTHING to do with the motor!!
It has everything to do with the exhaust system, specifically the NOx catalytic convertor.
Sulfur poisons the platinum group metals in the catalysts and makes the convertor inoperative.
Modern diesels have ECUs and if it has a post 2006 emission control system the computer(s) will sense malfunction of the convertor and at best cause lights to turn on, at worst put the motor into limp home mode or even inoperative mode.
This probably can be fixed with use of the appropriate diagnostic computer, but the poisoning of the convertor requires replacement if proper function is needed.
Since the 3.0 was not in this application intended for installation into a post 2006 chassis, a convertor undoubtedly did not come with the motor. So sulfur should not be an issue except that use of high TBN (total base number) lube oil is desirable with higher sulfur fuel, depending on sulfur content and amount of higher sulfur fuel used and oil change intervals. This has been proper lube oil advice re sulfur since time immemorial.
Euro 4 and higher non US motors have convertors and also require ULSD for the benefit of the convertor.

Charlie

 

[DesertRose]

I have a question because I don't remember seeing this anywhere, correct me if I'm wrong.

The 3.0 doesn't require ULSD correct?

(edit) now that I think about it this is probably a dumb question since it is a non-US motor...

Not a dumb question! Actually no question is dumb if you don't know the answer and are looking for edification . . . that's why ExPo is so great. People here are polite and helpful.

I learned alot from the answer as well, thanks!

I'm still sorting out if I can run biodiesel 20 in this engine without dire consequences . . . trying to get answers from Brazil has been fruitless.

Martyn assures me if it has the right hoses I'm okay, but after spending this much I certain am not sure and don't want to risk any damage . . .

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

No Rosann you will be fine. As far as I can tell nothing since 1991 has been affected by biodiesel use. If it has it really isn't a big deal, you can see it happen as the hoses get swelled and sticky (essentially the biodiesel permiates the rubber). It lasts for some time like this (a month or two) but then finally gives up the ghost... So if you see it happening after say a month of running it then replace it. But I would but incredibly high probability at there being no issues at all...

The only time I was ever effected on a recent engine was some crap fuel hose from autozone. I found if you run gates or any reasonably decent fuel line (from a franchise parts store not a chain, like Parts Plus or Carquest or Napa) then you are beyond fine. I perfer to support these places anyway as they have the best product and best service and it does to the right guys in a sense

 

[roscoFJ73]

Not a dumb question! Actually no question is dumb if you don't know the answer and are looking for edification . . . that's why ExPo is so great. People here are polite and helpful.

I learned alot from the answer as well, thanks!

I'm still sorting out if I can run biodiesel 20 in this engine without dire consequences . . . trying to get answers from Brazil has been fruitless.

Martyn assures me if it has the right hoses I'm okay, but after spending this much I certain am not sure and don't want to risk any damage . . .

Maybe you could cut a small sample of fuel line off and leave it soaking in biofuel for a month and see what happens.

IMO,the detrimental effects of biofuel on the fuel lines is often overstated

 

[DesertRose]

IMO,the detrimental effects of biofuel on the fuel lines is often overstated

Most likely from engine manufacturers, to try to protect from warranty problems ... not sure. But I agree, and Dieselcruiserhead, I know you're right I'm going to take the leap soon. Safeway sells US-sourced biodiesel very cheap here in AZ.

Thanks guys!

 

[roscoFJ73]

Most likely from engine manufacturers, to try to protect from warranty problems ... not sure.
Thanks guys!

I think more likely from owners with very old vehicles who have run 100% biodiesel through them.
However ,an old aquaintence of mine ran 100% bio through his 1951 Landrover for years with no problems

 

[ChuckB]

Thanks all, great info!

 

[DesertRose]

Update

Been a while since I posted an update but I have been busy working on the 60:

I had the paint totally rubbed out (not bad!), the tacky 80s stripes removed (still a ghost, and some of the paint in bits was worn down to primer, but not bad), and got the windows tinted.

What's not shown is that my right front fender is still primer black (I kind of like the junkyard look) but will be painted soon. Eventually when I pay off the engine, I'll have it totally repained. And I'll be installing a winch soon, too. For longer trips a Columbus Carbon Fiber tent and Camping Lab awning completes the setup.

Don't tell my Jonathan (Hanson, editor of Overland Journal) that I might cover up the ghost stripes with custom decals featuring . . . subtle leopard print and zebra.

You can see the 60 in person it at the Overland Expo in April - it will be up front and center! (I'll be happy to schedule test drives on the Demo Course for anyone interested in the engine . . . )