RyanPartridge
Active member
I've got 240k on mine, owned since new. Bone stock. Kryptonite tierods, Moog XD Idler & Pitman arms are going on next week.
Did you ever find nice steel wheels that fit 285's?
Jack's 2007 Chevy Build
- Thread starter locrwln
- Start date
I've got 240k on mine, owned since new. Bone stock. Kryptonite tierods, Moog XD Idler & Pitman arms are going on next week.
Did you ever find nice steel wheels that fit 285's?
locrwln
Expedition Leader
That’s great. I wish I would have gotten mine new. Bought it at 3 years old and 72k miles. Needless to say, it got driven those first three years.
My Kryptonite stuck was still in perfect shape when I sold it, so you will be happy with it I’m sure.
I did’t. I ended up using H2’s with the IFS and 285’s (285/75r17). When I switched to the D60, I used factory Ford steelies with the 285’s I had. When I moved up to the current 285’s (285/75r18), I used Ford alloys.
Jack
RyanPartridge
Active member
10-4.
I'm looking for a wheel with the Chevy bolt pattern and proper backspace that's wider for 285's and a heavy load rating.
I've been using 265's on the original alloy PY0's. No lift or leveling planned.
locrwln
Expedition Leader
Gotcha. I believe the 07-10 trucks, before they changed the wheel pattern, were wider than our 800 series trucks rims, yet kept the 8 on 6.5” wheel pattern.
Jack
RyanPartridge
Active member
I was kicking around the idea of H2's(17") until I noticed that 18" Cooper AT3's have a much higher load rating than their 17" size.
If I go with a Bunduvry or Roadrunner I'll be beefing up my 3/4 ton into a 1 ton essentially anyways, so I need all the extra support I can get.
Sorry for the hijack. Just stoked on everything you did to the 07 Classic LBZ.
locrwln
Expedition Leader
That’s what moved me to 18’s. 17’s seem to be left behind on load ratings. 18’s and 20’s are where the big three have gone on the new trucks, so it seems the tires are keeping pace with the increasing load ratings.
And no worries about any hijacking; it’s all good as lo as information is being shared. ?
Jack
Chopsmcnik
New member
Brand new to this site and thread. Thanks for sharing your build and adventures. I really enjoyed reading it all. I grew up just south of you in Washoe Valley. We moved to Oregon about five years ago, but we love getting back to Reno whenever we can. I came across your build while reading about Tim’s SAS build. I have an 05 Duramax that I’m getting ready to upgrade the front suspension on. I’ve been oscillating between the BDS coil over or the sas after reading yours and Tim’s build I’m leaning towards the SAS. I was curious why you decided to go with Tim’s kit over the WFO kit. I like them both for different reasons, just curious about your decision. I’ve been following NVWill’s build with the WFO kit and he really seems to like it. Just trying to get as much feedback before pulling the trigger.
Thanks!
Nick
Thanks!
Nick
locrwln
Expedition Leader
You are welcome and it’s been a lot fun. I went with Tim’s kit because I liked the design of the control arms better. To me the WFO arms looked too much like the dropped torsion bars of a lifted truck. There are bits of both kits that are better than the other. I like WFO‘s shock towers (smaller) and the fact that you can remove the transmission crossmember without having to drop the control arms with WFO’s kit.
I will forewarn you that SAS’ing a truck is no small feat and you need approach it with eyes wide open as it’s not cheap or easy. If you are even remotely thinking that you may sell truck; don’t do it.
I love mine and it’s been a worthwhile modification for my use.
Jack
I will forewarn you that SAS’ing a truck is no small feat and you need approach it with eyes wide open as it’s not cheap or easy. If you are even remotely thinking that you may sell truck; don’t do it.
I love mine and it’s been a worthwhile modification for my use.
Jack
Chopsmcnik
New member
Thanks Jack. Eyes are definitely wide open. I like a good challenge and this looks fun to me. I’m also not planning on selling this truck. I’ve waited a long time to get this truck and there’s no way I could afford a newer truck. I also like the classic body style. I also have experience welding and building. Thanks for the feedback. I’m planning on doing some tranny work in the future so that’s having a big impact on Tim’s vs WFO. That’s a lot of steel to drop to get that tranny out.
Nick
Nick
locrwln
Expedition Leader
Sounds good and it sounds like you have a good idea of what you are facing. I will say that one of the hardest parts of the conversion is actually getting all of the IFS brackets cut out. Even with a plasma cutter, you will be using a sawsall and doing lots and lots of grinding. Make sure you use acetone or some other product to clean the undercoating from the frame as it is flammable when using a plasma cutter.
I had to replace my t-case post SAS and I can tell you that it is a huge chunk of metal to deal with and you can’t get to much with it in place.
Did I mention you’ll be doing a lot of grinding? ?
Jack
locrwln
Expedition Leader
Prerunnertaco
New member
Hello Jack, i am running time kit. By any chance are hitting the oil pan with your drag link?
NVWill
Member
I have a 3" WFO sas kit on my 2002 duramax and the drag link barley kissed the oil pan at full flex. My solution was to add 1/2" more pre load to the coil overs. This gave me the clearance I needed and I will eventually up grade to a adjustable King bump can and ditch the poly bump stops.
locrwln
Expedition Leader
I have a very slight rub mark on one of the ribs of the cast portion of the oil pan. 50k miles and so far; it hasn’t gotten worse or caused a problem.
Jack