LATEST PROJECT - Truck Drawers/Sleeping Platform
- Thread starter roadtripcrazed
- Start date
roadtripcrazed
Observer
Yes. I believe they are #8 hex-head screws. The steel was pre-drilled with 5/32" holes. Screws spun in pretty nicely with an impact-drill and sucked up nice and tight. I also ran a small bead of construction adhesive between the tubing and the ply for a little extra strength. I'm sure it wasn't at all necessary, but as my grandfather always said ... "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right." ... a testament that I try to uphold in his honour.
-=D
roadtripcrazed
Observer
Update
There were several people wondering about the durability of the soldered copper fittings that were utilized fairly extensively in the construction of this project. I am happy to report that they were able to withstand all of the vibrations and abuse that I could throw at them over the past season. I actually had many more issues with the hose clamps on the braided lines ... just couldn't get them tight enough! Everything is buckled down now and I haven't seen a leak in months.
Winter is rolling in and the heater is working fine. Just need to find a way to increase the coolant flow to the cargo area. As some have suggested, it may be a air/vapour lock or I may need to install an in-line pump to keep the coolant flowing better at idle. Looking into this further.
Thanks again!
-=D
There were several people wondering about the durability of the soldered copper fittings that were utilized fairly extensively in the construction of this project. I am happy to report that they were able to withstand all of the vibrations and abuse that I could throw at them over the past season. I actually had many more issues with the hose clamps on the braided lines ... just couldn't get them tight enough! Everything is buckled down now and I haven't seen a leak in months.
Winter is rolling in and the heater is working fine. Just need to find a way to increase the coolant flow to the cargo area. As some have suggested, it may be a air/vapour lock or I may need to install an in-line pump to keep the coolant flowing better at idle. Looking into this further.
Thanks again!
-=D
Sidvicious
New member
Doug,
First of all, great build! :clapsmile
I am thinking of using some of your design ideas to make a fridge slide and drawer system for the back of my 4runner.
Couple questions for you (or anyone else that knows: )
Did you make this drawer catch or buy it somewhere?
If you did buy it somewhere, can you point me in that direction? Thanks!
First of all, great build! :clapsmile
I am thinking of using some of your design ideas to make a fridge slide and drawer system for the back of my 4runner.
Couple questions for you (or anyone else that knows: )
Did you make this drawer catch or buy it somewhere?
If you did buy it somewhere, can you point me in that direction? Thanks!
roadtripcrazed
Observer
Thank you for the compliments! These drawers have been a great addition to the truck. I can't imagine how I lived without them now ...
Any place which sells a paddle style latch like I used will also sell the catches. Often they are sold as sets, sometimes not. I think I had to purchase mine separately.
Hope that helps! Good luck with your project and be sure to post some pictures when it's done - or in progress.
-=D
NM-Frontier
Explorer
What did you do to bolt the platform down to the utilitrack? I have and idea of my own that would have a bolt sticking up through the bottom of the plat form but yours looks like the bolt is threaded though the platform then in to the utilitrack, is it a threaded bit that slides in the track? Thanks! Your build has been a huge influence on mine!
roadtripcrazed
Observer
The easiest thing to use is a "spring-nut" used in industrial/commercial wiring and electrical installations. Something like this: http://www.tnb.com/ps/endeca/index.cgi?a=nav&N=4294952561+4294952562+4294953070&Ntt=
These slide right into the utili-track and are held in place by the spring. This allows you to easily thread a bolt in from the top without having to awkwardly hold onto the nut at the same time.
Good luck and be sure to post pictures of your project too!
-=D
NM-Frontier
Explorer
Hey those are trick! Thanks. Those seem to be just the ticket. You could probably use those to make some tie downs on the side tracks as well.
sixstringsteve
Explorer
Well done! :bowdown:
And thanks for following up and answering everyone's questions. I'm going to have to implement something like that on my truck now.
And thanks for following up and answering everyone's questions. I'm going to have to implement something like that on my truck now.
roadtripcrazed
Observer
The bearings sit tight against the square tubing on both the top and bottom. There is less than 1/64" on either side. If you leave too much space, the drawers will droop significantly when you have them at full extension. The rows of bearing nearest the opening are the most important - the bearing toward the back function simply as guides.
-=D
Little Red
Adventurer
I really like what you did, I want to built something very similar to this for my suburban.
I have a couple questions:
Where did you buy the square tube used for the drawers?
Did you use ¾ ply for the top and is there any sagging with the weight of 2 people sleeping on top?
Thanks…
I have a couple questions:
Where did you buy the square tube used for the drawers?
Did you use ¾ ply for the top and is there any sagging with the weight of 2 people sleeping on top?
Thanks…
roadtripcrazed
Observer
The square tubing was sourced from our local welding shop. It's simple 1/8" wall, 1" square tubing. Be sure to ask for tubing with SQUARE corners. Tubing can come with fairly soft, rounded corners which may cause issues with your bearings. A larger, flatter surface is apparent on the SQUARE cornered stock. I have one rail on my setup with the rounder stuff and I will be replacing it eventually - not looking forward to it!
Yes, the top of the setup is all 3/4" birch plywood. There is absolutely no flex with the two of us (and dog!) up there. The drawer carcass provides three vertical supports across the width, so that means a support every ~24". That is similar to residential building code in many areas!
Thank you for your interest - be sure to let me know if you have any more questions once you get deeper into your build on your Suburban.
-=D