Long Jeep.....chasing unicorns
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
What the entire thing costs or what the tub will cost?
I think it is a matter of WHEN I build it, not if
This will require getting a lot of ducks in a row. My grand vision for this will be one vehicle that can 'replace' my Dodge and Willys. I don't know if I could ever sell the Willys, but I'm not really that attached to the Dodge in the long term. The Long Jeep should be able to do about 100% of what the Willys can do and about 90% of what the Dodge can do. Add in a small trailer for larger loads and the Long Jeep should be just about perfect.
MrBeast
Explorer
What the entire thing costs or what the tub will cost?
I think it is a matter of WHEN I build it, not if
You know a thought I just had is I suspect you will have to use a TJ windshield frame if you are using a TJ hard top in order to make the doors work you will have to run TJ doors too, this is because if memory serves I think the TJ has more of a leaned back windshield than the CJ. Not sure how hard that will be to fix up but it will be something to think about.
I prefer using a trailer for hauling anyways because it is not as big of a deal if a trailer gets scratched, it isn't like you are painting a trailer with imron. most of the time you can touch em up with rustoleum.
I have a trailer I am thinking about building to tow behind my jeep, I think it will be very cool if I do, it will look a lot like this:
Was thinking build it big enough to load a 8' Alaskan camper in. I think it would be a big hit anywhere I took it because it appeals to the inner child that lives within every man! lol
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I am planning on using a TJ windshield, top, and doors. The aqualu tub I am having quoted is going to have the TJ windshield and door mods done already. You have to run a hot rod style wiper system since the cowl is designed more like a CJ/TJ ( but with the TJ shape/crown ). Kinda a pain but you only have to do it once and the actual wiper motor is suppose to be a stock replacement from a mazda or something.
I have seen a few YJs with TJ tops but I don't really want to have to worry about the headache of the mis-matched parts.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
hahahaha...
Just had to quote this:
"I have seen a few YJs with TJ tops but I don't really want to have to worry about the headache of the mis-matched parts. "
Guess the Willys doesn't count? heehee!
Just had to quote this:
"I have seen a few YJs with TJ tops but I don't really want to have to worry about the headache of the mis-matched parts. "
Guess the Willys doesn't count? heehee!
Barrows
Adventurer
This thread has great ideas for the dash.......http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/1082114-black-diamond-build-tj-1-ton-ls-6-0-a-4.html.....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Some thoughts after my 2000+ mile journey in my flat fender....
I still think this will be my next big project. Basically it will be a
'replacement' for the dodge and willys even though I don't know if I
will get rid of either.
I do have to wonder how different a long jeep will be. I really
enjoyed my recent trip in the flat fender. I don't know if something
like the Long Jeep would have made it better, worse, or just
different. I do have some thoughts on how to make this project better
based on my latest adventure.
-Power. I think a modern 5.3 V8 will be enough. Both the TJs had them,
where heavy, had large tires, and worked dang well. The 5.3 seems like
a nice balance between enough and too much. They are also decent on
fuel. I used about the same amount of fuel they did with my little
carbed 1960s v6. They could also run regular unleaded and I had to run
premium pretty much. They are simple and affordable.
-Transmission. I still want to try the 6l80. I think the wide gear
spread will be really fun with a mild low range and deep axle gears.
Even in stock form they are strong. They work with the factory
computer and have a lot of shifting options. The size and weight is a
little bit of a downer, but big manual transmissions and crawlers are
not that light either. I will probably add some extra cooling capacity
for the automatic in the snow. I don't think you can ever have too
much cooling capacity...
-Gearing. I just don't know what to do here. I still think the silver TJ
( 5.3, 4l60, 4:1 tcase, 5.13s, 38s) is a
bit too low overall. Sure, it could be lower overall but I still think
that with the auto there is a magic window that works pretty
well....ok...maybe a few windows but he seems to be right on the
edge of one. He has some pretty noticeable issue with being able to
generate any wheel spin when he need to....or rather controlled wheel
spin. I think taller gearing with the auto would work a little better
a good amount of the time as long as you have the control over it. And
can cool it.
For a budget solution I think the 6l80 with 2:1 np205 and 6.17 axle
gears would work pretty well ( with a 40" tires) I worry a bit about
the lower axle gears though. The jantz J76 thing is an option but it
limits locker options. I think being able to run a nice wide fast low
range like that would be fun.
If I come into more money I would consider a 3:1 atlas with something
like 4.88-5.89 gears perhaps.
I am REALLY interested to see how the 40" mtr/k's do in the snow.
The green TJs where working pretty dang well. I imagine the 40s would be even
better since the contact patch would be even longer but not much
wider. I think they would make a GREAT all around tire.
-tape-locks. They seemed to work well enough for me. If I had a tig
welder I might think about building up the safety bead instead but for
the money they worked pretty dang well at 3psi with HEAVY jeeps. I
think it is worth the weight, simplicity, and cost savings to go this
way. For my build it means I can use a stock 17x8 3rd gen dodge 2500
wheel with the super high backspacing. win win for the money invested.
-On board air. No longer am I convinced that an engine driven
converted OBA compressor is the way to go. Unless ALL the oiling
issues can be dealt with I wouldn't go that way any longer. I think
the PUMA compressor green tj is now running is a good medium choice.
Something like the ARB twin compressor could be a very nice option
too. Even my mv50 worked REALLY well for going from 1 or 2 psi to like
6-8psi....and I probably did that 5-8 times I think.
-Fuel. I think you need more than 20 gallons but not more than 30
gallons in main tank capacity. For some trips I think your just going
to have to take extra fuel. I still don't know what the best option is
there. Having that solution be modular and easy is important. Keeping
the weight forward would be nice. Diesel is the other option if you
really want to get fancy. Diesel fuel doesn't vaporize like gas....and
you can run biodiesel which just smells like french fries Getting
the fuel tank ahead of the rear axle would be nice. I still think rear
weight is a BIG issue. The JK does have that advantage......fuel tank
is ahead of the axle.
-Camping. Being able to flop a few panels around and sleep INSIDE the
vehicle would be so freaking nice it wouldn't even be funny. Camping
takes a decent amount of time....setup, tear down, packing, etc. I
want the sleeping situation QUICK! It would be really nice if you
didn't have to get out of the vehicle to convert to camping mode. It
would be really nice if you could pull a few curtains and camp not far
off the road if that is the best you can do. I really want to be able
to have a sleeping platform inside the vehicle. Only personal and
sleeping gear would go on top of the platform. This would make setup
fairly easy. Tools, fuel, parts, etc all go other places.
-Spare tire. It would be nice to be able to have a spare tire. I don't
think its super critical with the proper spare parts system, but it
would make me feel better. I still think making the floor wider,
storing the TIRE on the floor, with soft gear bags packed inside the
spare tire would be a good way to go. The tire in my opinion can be
packed away pretty dang deep since you are not going to use it THAT
often. So what if you have to unpack the entire jeep to get at the
spare tire. So what if you have to swap it on the rim. Most small
punctures can be fixed with a plug kit and patched at the nearest town
or at camp early in the evening.
-Water. The storage of an entire case of water spread out around the
vehicle worked pretty well. You just have to remember where you put
them all. That was the only water I took and used for the entire
camping portion and still had leftovers. This includes water for
cooking, hand washing, etc. It sucks to have lots of little plastic
bottles. But you could refill them a few times and reuse them on
longer trips I think.
-I'm not going to lie. A top would be nice, especially if you could
sleep in it. I still think an LJ length tub with the frameless top
would be perfect. If you could pull the half doors in like 1 minute
for the technical sections where you want to hang your head out and
look at the tire that would be about perfect.
-A heater would be nice. Heated seats might be enough.
-If you have a top you probably need a defroster
-I reached for my non existent stereo a few times on the long road
sections. A simple mechless unit like in my dodge would be perfect I
think.
-Lockable storage, like my center console, was VERY nice for
valuables, spare cash, firearms, etc.
-green tjs chainsaw system is a work of art. Its basically a sleeve for
the saw on the tire carrier. Simple and quick. We cut a LOT of trees
out of the road, maybe 20-30 total? For spring snow wheeling trips you
need something similar. Maybe on the front bumper to keep the weight
forward would be better. You wouldn't have to walk to the back of the
jeep than. The saw doesn't need to be THAT big. Something with an
16-18" bar would be more than enough.
-Firewood. Having somewhere to strap some firewood is really nice. It
shouldn't be in the jeep. You will probably only have it on there for
an hour or two. I think a small folding rack/table on the tailgate
would work well. Something light and aluminum You could prep lunch on
it too. If you had a fold down tailgate like a cj7 and a few tie down
points that could work well too as long as the gear didn't want to
fall out the open tailgate hole.
-Cooking. I think the hot water cooking worked well. I used less than
one fuel canister for the jet boil. If you wanted to get more fancy
you could, but it put good food in my belly and I didn't have to wait
for a fire. The other guys ate sausages cooked over the fire just
about every night. For the ultimate 'expedition' type setup I think
perhaps a cook stove built into the tailgate might work really well?
You slide down a slippery slope though with having to have cookable
food than.....cooler, fridge, etc. I really liked not having to worry
about refrigeration at all.
-Gear packing. I HATE having stuff crammed in all over the place. Mine
wasn't bad, but the TJs where STUFFED! I didn't think I was short on
gear in too many places. Being able to have everything organized and
fairly easy to get to was nice. I should have probably swapped the
location of the spare parts bag and the recovery bag. The air
compressor ended up on top of the tool bag for the wheeling portion of
the trip. I bummed air a few times but then felt guilty and started
using my own compressor. Other than that most of my gear packing and
organizing worked really really well. The kitchen and food box worked
well. It was quick, clean and easy to get at that stuff. Put the stuff
you use the most the easiest places to get to. The stuff you use the
least can be tucked way, tied down, hidden, etc.....as long as you
remember where it is
Well....that should get you thinking I hope.
I still think this will be my next big project. Basically it will be a
'replacement' for the dodge and willys even though I don't know if I
will get rid of either.
I do have to wonder how different a long jeep will be. I really
enjoyed my recent trip in the flat fender. I don't know if something
like the Long Jeep would have made it better, worse, or just
different. I do have some thoughts on how to make this project better
based on my latest adventure.
-Power. I think a modern 5.3 V8 will be enough. Both the TJs had them,
where heavy, had large tires, and worked dang well. The 5.3 seems like
a nice balance between enough and too much. They are also decent on
fuel. I used about the same amount of fuel they did with my little
carbed 1960s v6. They could also run regular unleaded and I had to run
premium pretty much. They are simple and affordable.
-Transmission. I still want to try the 6l80. I think the wide gear
spread will be really fun with a mild low range and deep axle gears.
Even in stock form they are strong. They work with the factory
computer and have a lot of shifting options. The size and weight is a
little bit of a downer, but big manual transmissions and crawlers are
not that light either. I will probably add some extra cooling capacity
for the automatic in the snow. I don't think you can ever have too
much cooling capacity...
-Gearing. I just don't know what to do here. I still think the silver TJ
( 5.3, 4l60, 4:1 tcase, 5.13s, 38s) is a
bit too low overall. Sure, it could be lower overall but I still think
that with the auto there is a magic window that works pretty
well....ok...maybe a few windows but he seems to be right on the
edge of one. He has some pretty noticeable issue with being able to
generate any wheel spin when he need to....or rather controlled wheel
spin. I think taller gearing with the auto would work a little better
a good amount of the time as long as you have the control over it. And
can cool it.
For a budget solution I think the 6l80 with 2:1 np205 and 6.17 axle
gears would work pretty well ( with a 40" tires) I worry a bit about
the lower axle gears though. The jantz J76 thing is an option but it
limits locker options. I think being able to run a nice wide fast low
range like that would be fun.
If I come into more money I would consider a 3:1 atlas with something
like 4.88-5.89 gears perhaps.
I am REALLY interested to see how the 40" mtr/k's do in the snow.
The green TJs where working pretty dang well. I imagine the 40s would be even
better since the contact patch would be even longer but not much
wider. I think they would make a GREAT all around tire.
-tape-locks. They seemed to work well enough for me. If I had a tig
welder I might think about building up the safety bead instead but for
the money they worked pretty dang well at 3psi with HEAVY jeeps. I
think it is worth the weight, simplicity, and cost savings to go this
way. For my build it means I can use a stock 17x8 3rd gen dodge 2500
wheel with the super high backspacing. win win for the money invested.
-On board air. No longer am I convinced that an engine driven
converted OBA compressor is the way to go. Unless ALL the oiling
issues can be dealt with I wouldn't go that way any longer. I think
the PUMA compressor green tj is now running is a good medium choice.
Something like the ARB twin compressor could be a very nice option
too. Even my mv50 worked REALLY well for going from 1 or 2 psi to like
6-8psi....and I probably did that 5-8 times I think.
-Fuel. I think you need more than 20 gallons but not more than 30
gallons in main tank capacity. For some trips I think your just going
to have to take extra fuel. I still don't know what the best option is
there. Having that solution be modular and easy is important. Keeping
the weight forward would be nice. Diesel is the other option if you
really want to get fancy. Diesel fuel doesn't vaporize like gas....and
you can run biodiesel which just smells like french fries
Gettingthe fuel tank ahead of the rear axle would be nice. I still think rear
weight is a BIG issue. The JK does have that advantage......fuel tank
is ahead of the axle.
-Camping. Being able to flop a few panels around and sleep INSIDE the
vehicle would be so freaking nice it wouldn't even be funny. Camping
takes a decent amount of time....setup, tear down, packing, etc. I
want the sleeping situation QUICK! It would be really nice if you
didn't have to get out of the vehicle to convert to camping mode. It
would be really nice if you could pull a few curtains and camp not far
off the road if that is the best you can do. I really want to be able
to have a sleeping platform inside the vehicle. Only personal and
sleeping gear would go on top of the platform. This would make setup
fairly easy. Tools, fuel, parts, etc all go other places.
-Spare tire. It would be nice to be able to have a spare tire. I don't
think its super critical with the proper spare parts system, but it
would make me feel better. I still think making the floor wider,
storing the TIRE on the floor, with soft gear bags packed inside the
spare tire would be a good way to go. The tire in my opinion can be
packed away pretty dang deep since you are not going to use it THAT
often. So what if you have to unpack the entire jeep to get at the
spare tire. So what if you have to swap it on the rim. Most small
punctures can be fixed with a plug kit and patched at the nearest town
or at camp early in the evening.
-Water. The storage of an entire case of water spread out around the
vehicle worked pretty well. You just have to remember where you put
them all. That was the only water I took and used for the entire
camping portion and still had leftovers. This includes water for
cooking, hand washing, etc. It sucks to have lots of little plastic
bottles. But you could refill them a few times and reuse them on
longer trips I think.
-I'm not going to lie. A top would be nice, especially if you could
sleep in it. I still think an LJ length tub with the frameless top
would be perfect. If you could pull the half doors in like 1 minute
for the technical sections where you want to hang your head out and
look at the tire that would be about perfect.
-A heater would be nice. Heated seats might be enough.
-If you have a top you probably need a defroster
-I reached for my non existent stereo a few times on the long road
sections. A simple mechless unit like in my dodge would be perfect I
think.
-Lockable storage, like my center console, was VERY nice for
valuables, spare cash, firearms, etc.
-green tjs chainsaw system is a work of art. Its basically a sleeve for
the saw on the tire carrier. Simple and quick. We cut a LOT of trees
out of the road, maybe 20-30 total? For spring snow wheeling trips you
need something similar. Maybe on the front bumper to keep the weight
forward would be better. You wouldn't have to walk to the back of the
jeep than. The saw doesn't need to be THAT big. Something with an
16-18" bar would be more than enough.
-Firewood. Having somewhere to strap some firewood is really nice. It
shouldn't be in the jeep. You will probably only have it on there for
an hour or two. I think a small folding rack/table on the tailgate
would work well. Something light and aluminum You could prep lunch on
it too. If you had a fold down tailgate like a cj7 and a few tie down
points that could work well too as long as the gear didn't want to
fall out the open tailgate hole.
-Cooking. I think the hot water cooking worked well. I used less than
one fuel canister for the jet boil. If you wanted to get more fancy
you could, but it put good food in my belly and I didn't have to wait
for a fire. The other guys ate sausages cooked over the fire just
about every night. For the ultimate 'expedition' type setup I think
perhaps a cook stove built into the tailgate might work really well?
You slide down a slippery slope though with having to have cookable
food than.....cooler, fridge, etc. I really liked not having to worry
about refrigeration at all.
-Gear packing. I HATE having stuff crammed in all over the place. Mine
wasn't bad, but the TJs where STUFFED! I didn't think I was short on
gear in too many places. Being able to have everything organized and
fairly easy to get to was nice. I should have probably swapped the
location of the spare parts bag and the recovery bag. The air
compressor ended up on top of the tool bag for the wheeling portion of
the trip. I bummed air a few times but then felt guilty and started
using my own compressor. Other than that most of my gear packing and
organizing worked really really well. The kitchen and food box worked
well. It was quick, clean and easy to get at that stuff. Put the stuff
you use the most the easiest places to get to. The stuff you use the
least can be tucked way, tied down, hidden, etc.....as long as you
remember where it is
Well....that should get you thinking I hope.
MotoDave
Explorer
My thoughts from my similar but different Scout 80 build:
The 5.3 Chevy is a great truck motor. I'm starting with a TBI 350 for simplicity sake, if I don't decide to go with a 4DB1T or similar turbodiesel I'll eventually swap out the 350 for a 5.3. One of my goals for my truck is to have it street-able enough to drive decent distances to the trials and not be totally worn out from driving the thing. Having enough motor to push you along with the speed of traffic without wringing its neck goes a long ways towards this.
Not sure if the 6L80 shares the common round pattern transfer case bolt pattern. If it does, the Dana 300 is a poor man's Atlas, giving a 2.6:1 ratio stock, with 4:1 kits available. With my NV4500 and the 4:1 kit, 1st hear high range ends up similar to 4th gear low range, which seems reasonable.
My plan is to run a main fuel tank between the rails, probably ~20 gallons, for my normal driving. I'll keep the 2 stock 10 gallon saddle tanks, they will be built in reserve tanks. Undecided if I'll use a switchable fuel valve, or jsut have an aux pump empty the saddle tanks into the main tank.
The 5.3 Chevy is a great truck motor. I'm starting with a TBI 350 for simplicity sake, if I don't decide to go with a 4DB1T or similar turbodiesel I'll eventually swap out the 350 for a 5.3. One of my goals for my truck is to have it street-able enough to drive decent distances to the trials and not be totally worn out from driving the thing. Having enough motor to push you along with the speed of traffic without wringing its neck goes a long ways towards this.
Not sure if the 6L80 shares the common round pattern transfer case bolt pattern. If it does, the Dana 300 is a poor man's Atlas, giving a 2.6:1 ratio stock, with 4:1 kits available. With my NV4500 and the 4:1 kit, 1st hear high range ends up similar to 4th gear low range, which seems reasonable.
My plan is to run a main fuel tank between the rails, probably ~20 gallons, for my normal driving. I'll keep the 2 stock 10 gallon saddle tanks, they will be built in reserve tanks. Undecided if I'll use a switchable fuel valve, or jsut have an aux pump empty the saddle tanks into the main tank.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
The 5.3 Chevy is a great truck motor. I'm starting with a TBI 350 for simplicity sake, if I don't decide to go with a 4DB1T or similar turbodiesel I'll eventually swap out the 350 for a 5.3. One of my goals for my truck is to have it street-able enough to drive decent distances to the trials and not be totally worn out from driving the thing. Having enough motor to push you along with the speed of traffic without wringing its neck goes a long ways towards this.
The 5.3 is like the TBI 350 of 20 years ago I think. They are everywhere, common, affordable, etc. With the right wiring harness they are pretty dang simple.
Not sure if the 6L80 shares the common round pattern transfer case bolt pattern. If it does, the Dana 300 is a poor man's Atlas, giving a 2.6:1 ratio stock, with 4:1 kits available. With my NV4500 and the 4:1 kit, 1st hear high range ends up similar to 4th gear low range, which seems reasonable.
I'm not looking for deep low range gearing personally. I think with the automatic it can be a determent in some situations. The 6l80 has a similar round pattern but it is clocked different, it also uses a 32 spline output shaft. I need a drivers drop case also. I can flip the D300 but would rather not. With the 4:1 1st gear on the 6l80 and deep axle gears I think even a mild 2:1 low range would work pretty fantastic. You would have a 50:1 crawl ratio AND the ability to run pretty dang fast in low range.....50-60mph being possible for desert or sand work.
An np205 is heavy, but they are cheap and dang near bulletproof. 32 spline outputs are common also, you have to upgrade that on the Dana 300.
The 2.6 low range does make taller axle gears possible however. I am a bit nervous about having to run deep deep axle gears to get everything to work the way I want.
My plan is to run a main fuel tank between the rails, probably ~20 gallons, for my normal driving. I'll keep the 2 stock 10 gallon saddle tanks, they will be built in reserve tanks. Undecided if I'll use a switchable fuel valve, or jsut have an aux pump empty the saddle tanks into the main tank.
Its just a space puzzle. I think a 20 gallon main tank is about the smallest I would go. If I could get 30 gallons that would be really nice. I hesitate to run auxiliary tanks for the weight and space. I really don't need extra fuel capacity that often so packing around empty tanks all the time kinda sucks. Also, when fully loaded with fuel, it can be nice when stuck in super soft sand to be able to unload the vehicle as a last resort. With auxiliary tanks you are stuck with the weight on the vehicle basically till the fuel is used up.
There are a million ways to build things that's for sure. Thank you for your ideas and input.
The 5.3 is like the TBI 350 of 20 years ago I think. They are everywhere, common, affordable, etc. With the right wiring harness they are pretty dang simple.
Not sure if the 6L80 shares the common round pattern transfer case bolt pattern. If it does, the Dana 300 is a poor man's Atlas, giving a 2.6:1 ratio stock, with 4:1 kits available. With my NV4500 and the 4:1 kit, 1st hear high range ends up similar to 4th gear low range, which seems reasonable.
I'm not looking for deep low range gearing personally. I think with the automatic it can be a determent in some situations. The 6l80 has a similar round pattern but it is clocked different, it also uses a 32 spline output shaft. I need a drivers drop case also. I can flip the D300 but would rather not. With the 4:1 1st gear on the 6l80 and deep axle gears I think even a mild 2:1 low range would work pretty fantastic. You would have a 50:1 crawl ratio AND the ability to run pretty dang fast in low range.....50-60mph being possible for desert or sand work.
An np205 is heavy, but they are cheap and dang near bulletproof. 32 spline outputs are common also, you have to upgrade that on the Dana 300.
The 2.6 low range does make taller axle gears possible however. I am a bit nervous about having to run deep deep axle gears to get everything to work the way I want.
My plan is to run a main fuel tank between the rails, probably ~20 gallons, for my normal driving. I'll keep the 2 stock 10 gallon saddle tanks, they will be built in reserve tanks. Undecided if I'll use a switchable fuel valve, or jsut have an aux pump empty the saddle tanks into the main tank.
Its just a space puzzle. I think a 20 gallon main tank is about the smallest I would go. If I could get 30 gallons that would be really nice. I hesitate to run auxiliary tanks for the weight and space. I really don't need extra fuel capacity that often so packing around empty tanks all the time kinda sucks. Also, when fully loaded with fuel, it can be nice when stuck in super soft sand to be able to unload the vehicle as a last resort. With auxiliary tanks you are stuck with the weight on the vehicle basically till the fuel is used up.
There are a million ways to build things that's for sure. Thank you for your ideas and input.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Some misc rambling....
Some of this stuff is 'fine tuning' after my big flat fender trip. Some is just thinking about loud.
-Weight placement. One this I have noticed is that it is pretty dang hard to get a vehicle front heavy AND have it loaded with gear. Overall I don't think too many people would argue that having a vehicle be very heavy on the rear axle detracts from overall performance? I know I notice a pretty big difference when my vehicles, especially my flat fender, are set up with the front axle slightly heavier than the rear axle. This brings up some interesting issues if you going to basically be building a vehicle from scratch. How much stuff can you really move around effectively to get the weight of the vehicle bias to the front axle in the 'empty' condition. Hopefully this would have a positive effect on what the final weight balance would be after you load in a decent amount of gear. The big items are probably going to make the most difference......spare tire ( 100+lbs ), fuel tank ( 30 gallons would be 200+lbs easy ), etc.
The biggest change I am considering is moving the fuel tank ahead of the rear axle similar to a JK. I REALLY want to have a 25-30 gallon tank with good clearance. The main issue is the rear suspension. You basically can't have a conventional triangulated 4 link with a mid mounted tank. You can with leaf springs very easy, but I am not interested in going that direction. I think you would pretty much be limited to a panhard or watts link rear suspension. While this works pretty dang well, I just don't know if I want to go that direction.
There just isn't the most space ahead of the rear axle for a fuel tank that won't hang down below the frame. I may just have to compromise and run the fuel tank in the conventional jeep position aft of the rear axle even though I know that weight would be better in another more forward location.
The spare tire stuff is easy. I have pretty much resigned myself to NOT mounting much of anything on the back of the tub in the tailgate area. I have never really liked having that much stuff in that location anyways, and it only gets worse with a 40" tire. I am basically planning to run the spare TIRE on the rear floor slid forward as much as possible. Gear can be packed inside and around the tire to best utilize that space. I don't have any intention of using this as anything but a 2-seater however I MAY design a simple helicopter style seat that can be slipped in the rear for around town chores.
-Sleeping platform. I really want one, but it has to be simple, very light, and modular. What would be the lightest most cost effective material for the rear decking system? I am thinking maybe birch plywood with a good deal of lightening holes, Nidacore panels, maybe aluminum? It would be nice if the platform was modular so that I can get at stuff in the spare tire without having to take everything out of the inside of the vehicle.
I will also need to design a way for the panel to flip forward over the passenger seat without hitting the roll bar B-pillar area and all that. I have a feeling that I will have to make some special hinges or something. I REALLY want to be able to go from driving to sleeping in the least time possible without having to get out of the vehicle.
Fun Fun
Some of this stuff is 'fine tuning' after my big flat fender trip. Some is just thinking about loud.
-Weight placement. One this I have noticed is that it is pretty dang hard to get a vehicle front heavy AND have it loaded with gear. Overall I don't think too many people would argue that having a vehicle be very heavy on the rear axle detracts from overall performance? I know I notice a pretty big difference when my vehicles, especially my flat fender, are set up with the front axle slightly heavier than the rear axle. This brings up some interesting issues if you going to basically be building a vehicle from scratch. How much stuff can you really move around effectively to get the weight of the vehicle bias to the front axle in the 'empty' condition. Hopefully this would have a positive effect on what the final weight balance would be after you load in a decent amount of gear. The big items are probably going to make the most difference......spare tire ( 100+lbs ), fuel tank ( 30 gallons would be 200+lbs easy ), etc.
The biggest change I am considering is moving the fuel tank ahead of the rear axle similar to a JK. I REALLY want to have a 25-30 gallon tank with good clearance. The main issue is the rear suspension. You basically can't have a conventional triangulated 4 link with a mid mounted tank. You can with leaf springs very easy, but I am not interested in going that direction. I think you would pretty much be limited to a panhard or watts link rear suspension. While this works pretty dang well, I just don't know if I want to go that direction.
There just isn't the most space ahead of the rear axle for a fuel tank that won't hang down below the frame. I may just have to compromise and run the fuel tank in the conventional jeep position aft of the rear axle even though I know that weight would be better in another more forward location.
The spare tire stuff is easy. I have pretty much resigned myself to NOT mounting much of anything on the back of the tub in the tailgate area. I have never really liked having that much stuff in that location anyways, and it only gets worse with a 40" tire. I am basically planning to run the spare TIRE on the rear floor slid forward as much as possible. Gear can be packed inside and around the tire to best utilize that space. I don't have any intention of using this as anything but a 2-seater however I MAY design a simple helicopter style seat that can be slipped in the rear for around town chores.
-Sleeping platform. I really want one, but it has to be simple, very light, and modular. What would be the lightest most cost effective material for the rear decking system? I am thinking maybe birch plywood with a good deal of lightening holes, Nidacore panels, maybe aluminum? It would be nice if the platform was modular so that I can get at stuff in the spare tire without having to take everything out of the inside of the vehicle.
I will also need to design a way for the panel to flip forward over the passenger seat without hitting the roll bar B-pillar area and all that. I have a feeling that I will have to make some special hinges or something. I REALLY want to be able to go from driving to sleeping in the least time possible without having to get out of the vehicle.
Fun Fun
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Just a small update and ramble.
I still haven't heard back from Aqualu. That kinda bugs me, but I guess I need to call again. I realize that quoting custom stuff is more time consuming but still.
I have a good friend looking into getting a JKU. This make me take another long look at that platform. While looking, thinking, and planning what I would do it came up more than once in my head that it sure would be nice if the JK came with a V8, heavier axles, and a long wheelbase 2-door option! Honestly, the JK is in another class with its nice new comfy interior and factory warranty. It is however also in another class as far as cost. I have a hard time swallowing a $35000+ price tag AND THEN having to put another large chunk of change in it to get the level of off road performance I want. So...custom built wins again for me.
I still haven't heard back from Aqualu. That kinda bugs me, but I guess I need to call again. I realize that quoting custom stuff is more time consuming but still.
I have a good friend looking into getting a JKU. This make me take another long look at that platform. While looking, thinking, and planning what I would do it came up more than once in my head that it sure would be nice if the JK came with a V8, heavier axles, and a long wheelbase 2-door option!
Honestly, the JK is in another class with its nice new comfy interior and factory warranty. It is however also in another class as far as cost. I have a hard time swallowing a $35000+ price tag AND THEN having to put another large chunk of change in it to get the level of off road performance I want. So...custom built wins again for me.
MotoDave
Explorer
Occurred to me you're basically building a jeep version of a Icon FJ43
http://icon4x4.com/overview/fj/gallery/by-model/fj43
http://icon4x4.com/overview/fj/gallery/by-model/fj43
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Occurred to me you're basically building a jeep version of a Icon FJ43
Very similar for sure. And a lot less expensive! What does an ICON go for....100K? Neat rigs though....