Looking for DIY independent trailer suspension information.
- Thread starter Unholy
- Start date
ottsville
Observer
In a parking lot, the math says that a trailer will follow the track of the TV given the right dimensions. That won't be the case in a place where you are worried about clearance because the trailer will slide/bounce/creep towards the low side of the trail or down obstacles.
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I sold my shares in AT Overland at the beginning of the year, you will have to give them a call.
Thank you all for the replies. Between full time work, college classes/homework for 20 hours a week, and house/vehicle repairs I'm a bit busy, it makes spending time researching and digging for information a bit hard right now.. My apologies for the slow response time.
I appreciate the wealth of information. The trailer, I'm wanting to build is a small single axle. Well, minus the axle. I'd like a flat bed, but, one that can be changed in order to be used as a expedition trailer. While this may seem not possible to most, I had made a 4x8 trailer a few years ago, that had a removable flat deck with extensions. When the deck was removed, it was just a frame. I had a set of Kayak mounting racks allowing for 4 to be loaded. I had a few other mounts for motorcycles and lumber. I had plans for a small camper pod that could be attached also, a teardrop style, however I never built it. The trailer was lighter duty than what I would want now. It also was very tall, while not a problem for my dodge ram, it would be way to tall for my subaru outback. It also, didn't perform well off road. I sold it about a year and a half ago.
My issue with normal axles is the very poor off road handling. yes, I have tried. I also find, that having to order a special size axle to be more costly than what it is worth, especially with the lesser performance. I'm not a fan of torsion axles either. I found pictures of many independent arm/coil suspensions and videos of how well they work off road. I'd like to think with this suspension, and a redesign of my original trailer coupled with some material changes, I can create a smaller, more useful better adapted trailer. As far as airbags, I've seen a few failures that keep me wanting something that is a bit more sound. It would be nice to be able to adjust the coil tension or travel to change load on the springs, but not sure that can really be done.
I am mostly looking to pull this behind my Outback, while small, it can tow 2700 lbs. I'm not looking to exceed 1,500lbs even. I figure a small trailer with a more rigid frame that can be reconfigured, with a small storage pod and either rooftop tent or folding hard shell sleeper would be the trick. A removable tongue that allows for a high or low one to be installed for the truck, or car. Just a month and half ago, I went to the UP in Michigan, I went down many trails to remote state camp sites. Some spots, even a small truck was to tall to access. I slept in my Outback, but, I had no toilet or shower. No stove/grill. Nothing but the bed, a spare tire, fuel packs on my roof rack, along with a winch, farm jack, shovel and boards. It was fun... but I'd like a bit more ability to be away from towns/cities.
Thanks to all who replied. - Unholy
I appreciate the wealth of information. The trailer, I'm wanting to build is a small single axle. Well, minus the axle. I'd like a flat bed, but, one that can be changed in order to be used as a expedition trailer. While this may seem not possible to most, I had made a 4x8 trailer a few years ago, that had a removable flat deck with extensions. When the deck was removed, it was just a frame. I had a set of Kayak mounting racks allowing for 4 to be loaded. I had a few other mounts for motorcycles and lumber. I had plans for a small camper pod that could be attached also, a teardrop style, however I never built it. The trailer was lighter duty than what I would want now. It also was very tall, while not a problem for my dodge ram, it would be way to tall for my subaru outback. It also, didn't perform well off road. I sold it about a year and a half ago.
My issue with normal axles is the very poor off road handling. yes, I have tried. I also find, that having to order a special size axle to be more costly than what it is worth, especially with the lesser performance. I'm not a fan of torsion axles either. I found pictures of many independent arm/coil suspensions and videos of how well they work off road. I'd like to think with this suspension, and a redesign of my original trailer coupled with some material changes, I can create a smaller, more useful better adapted trailer. As far as airbags, I've seen a few failures that keep me wanting something that is a bit more sound. It would be nice to be able to adjust the coil tension or travel to change load on the springs, but not sure that can really be done.
I am mostly looking to pull this behind my Outback, while small, it can tow 2700 lbs. I'm not looking to exceed 1,500lbs even. I figure a small trailer with a more rigid frame that can be reconfigured, with a small storage pod and either rooftop tent or folding hard shell sleeper would be the trick. A removable tongue that allows for a high or low one to be installed for the truck, or car. Just a month and half ago, I went to the UP in Michigan, I went down many trails to remote state camp sites. Some spots, even a small truck was to tall to access. I slept in my Outback, but, I had no toilet or shower. No stove/grill. Nothing but the bed, a spare tire, fuel packs on my roof rack, along with a winch, farm jack, shovel and boards. It was fun... but I'd like a bit more ability to be away from towns/cities.
Thanks to all who replied. - Unholy
billiebob
Well-known member
something like this should be a fairly easy home build..
the benefit of independent suspension is reducing unsprung weight, making it easier for a shock to control and giving a softer ride for all those expensive, sensitive items like refrigerators, cameras, solar panels.....
the benefit of air ride is adjustability according to the load.
the benefit of independent suspension is reducing unsprung weight, making it easier for a shock to control and giving a softer ride for all those expensive, sensitive items like refrigerators, cameras, solar panels.....
the benefit of air ride is adjustability according to the load.
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Singler3360
Member
Thread resurrection.
I built my own independent trailing arm suspensions to replace a 3500# Dexter axle on an Aliner Ranger 12 trailer. I used Firestone airbags and the mounting plates that came with them for a F150 truck. I combined these with Monroe shocks. It has all worked great for many forest service/BLM road trips. Recently though I noticed the 1/4" airbag mounting plates are bent upwards on both sides. Is it possible I had too much pressure in them (70 psi) on the last trip? Or does this indicate there wasn't enough pressure and they bottomed-out? If the latter, I would be surprised since I monitored the pressure almost everyday (manually). Looking for answers for what could have caused this. Thank you.
I built my own independent trailing arm suspensions to replace a 3500# Dexter axle on an Aliner Ranger 12 trailer. I used Firestone airbags and the mounting plates that came with them for a F150 truck. I combined these with Monroe shocks. It has all worked great for many forest service/BLM road trips. Recently though I noticed the 1/4" airbag mounting plates are bent upwards on both sides. Is it possible I had too much pressure in them (70 psi) on the last trip? Or does this indicate there wasn't enough pressure and they bottomed-out? If the latter, I would be surprised since I monitored the pressure almost everyday (manually). Looking for answers for what could have caused this. Thank you.
slimtwo
Adventurer
In my thinking, it sounds to me like the suspension bottomed out, causing the damage. Only way to really know for sure, is to mount a camera under there, or I guess you could have someone follow you and observe what the suspension is doing.
Singler3360
Member
SlimTwo,
So, if I follow correctly, the shocks are compressed too much at neutral stance? Or do I just need to add bump stops?
Edit: bump stops, not dampner blocks
So, if I follow correctly, the shocks are compressed too much at neutral stance? Or do I just need to add bump stops?
Edit: bump stops, not dampner blocks
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billiebob
Well-known member
If the upper mounting plates bent.... I'd say you need to add gussets to triangulate and reinforce the plates. Even if things are overloaded and bottoming out the mounting plates should not bend.
PS a picture would really be helpful.
, if you want the trailer wheels to take the exact same path as the rear axle of the truck the hitch must be exactly the same middle of the tow vehicle axle and the trailer axle. In most cases the trailer axle to hitch distance is longer than truck axle to hitch distance, causing the trailer to take a tighter turn than the truck, off tracking to the inside.
take out your Meccano and give it a try
billiebob
Well-known member
If you have an F250 they spec a 52" rear overhang so lets guess 52" from the hitch/ball to the axle centerline. With the pretty standard 48" tongue, you'd have 8" of trailer body in front of the axle, given the standard 60/40 ratio for the trailer body, less than 3" behind. Cool theory but not a practical contribution to the discussion.
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I agree. Not practical. A little off tracking on tight turns will occurs. This is normal, and certainly desirable for backing up.
Just clearing up a point of misinformation from quickfarm.
Gooseneck and 5th wheel do more offtracking than “bumper” tows
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billiebob
Well-known member
In reverse, the trailer pin over the axle sure makes reversing smoother..... as does a loong trailer wheelbase.
Altho the negative of how fast a bumper pull and short trailer reacts to steering inputs while backing up can be an advantage.
wow, have we ever gone off topic
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